Tung Oil Simplified-woodturning

[@rebornbowman]

HI! I use pure tung oil mixed with pure lemon or orange oil, both being non-toxic and natural. The lemon or orange oil evaporate and thin the tung oil so it penetrates deeper into the wood. I have an old toaster oven I put the wood in treated with the oil mix and turn it up to 150 degrees, which evaporates off the orange oil and dries the tung oil faster. I use steel wool between applications and pure tung oil at the last application, using three coats total in the wood work I do. I make spoons and other utensils out of wood and find tung oil holds up to cooking and frying much better than any other treatment. We test out the things I make in our own kitchen, so it has passed the at home test for us. I get return customers, so it must be OK to use.

[@TomsLife9]

great info! thanks

[@mgorrow]

Sam, another very informative video. Thanks for sharing. I agree with you that all finishes are food safe when cured. The best test is with your nose. When you can no longer smell the telltale odder of the finish it has cured completely. Many companies sell what they call tung oil finish that are nothing more than wipe on varnishes that may or may not have any tung oil. They are often varnish thinned with mineral spirits.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Yes, a good point about "tung oil finishes" ---it is a dead give-away for a finish that has little or no actual tung oil in it. Sam

[@johnwallace4408]

Nothing beats the warm look of 100% tung oil. I have also discovered the higher the humidity, the longer the dry time. SAFE TURNING, John

[@chrisweigand1817]

Hi Sam, Thank you for this great video. I am a hobbyist that loves to make end grain cutting boards as gifts for friends. I vary between walrus oil, mineral oil and Howards cutting board oil. They all turn out good but I want better. Just recently discovered that tung oil was good to use on cutting boards so I got some and went for it. Man, what a great finish! I absolutely love the look but like the rookie I am I did very little research on how to apply it. First coat, pure tung oil no thinning at all and saturated the heck out of it might be dry in( 2023)HA! It has been about a week and several videos on how to apply it and it getting better every day. Your post is by far the best I've seen. Any advice you could give me, tips.. On the best way to do end grain about 2 inchs thick hardwood and how long it would take to cure and be ready for gifting would so so so appreciated. Thanks in advance. Chris.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Right on.... tung oil is "designed" to sit below the surface of the wood. Making it perfect for cutting boards. Sam

[@alansimpson596]

Hello Sam, Thank you for another interesting video I'm a big fan of Tung oil and for me the highlight of turning a piece successfully is the point when I get to apply the Tung oil as it seems to enrich the wood like no other oil. I use good quality propriety brands which dry quickly so they probably have a dryer already added. Many thanks, Alan.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

I agree Sam

[@nonexman]

If you do not use it regularly, do you recommend using Bloxigen into an open container so it can last till the next usage, or is this not necessary? Thank you for a great video.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Gary Yes I think using bloxigen would be a really good idea. I had some at one time, but just never had the discipline to use it on a consistent basis. Thanks Sam

[@CNTHINGS]

Lots of good info. Being that the cost of mineral oil is so much less than Tung oil do you think it would work to soak a piece in mineral oil and finish it with tung oil?

[@joshuadobson8555]

Polymerized tung oil can be heat treated, or organometallic driers may be added. It really depends on who is supplying it. There are also less toxic iron based driers available, but I have no clue how to get them from a retail source.

[@Quagmire88]

I bought a bottle of Hopes 100% Pure Tung Oil for some poplar bowls I am making. I hear that tung oil has a better moisture resistance than mineral oil since it actually dries. Its food safe after it dries, but they warn that some people could be allergic to it, since its an exact from the tung tree nut.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

+Quagmire88 Not sure of the allergy issue. I am sure someone is allergic to tung oil. Yes, I totally agree that Tung oil is really good for resistance to moisture. Anything you could finish wood with will be safe AFTER it is dry. And mineral oil, in my opinion, is NOT a finish as it does not dry. Thanks Sam

[@MikeWaldt]

Very informative video Sam, I've never used pure Tung oil, but use Danish Oil, or Finishing Oil, which has Tung Oil in it. Cheers Mike

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Thanks Mike I don't use a lot of tung oil either. But lately I have come to believe it isn't all that more expensive than some of the other stuff I use. I plan to use it more as I am running low on my other stuff. Sam

[@colinchalmers1099]

Good info Sam,thanks for sharing, Cheers Colin.

[@brianlee6849]

Are you familiar with "Red oil" ? It's a traditional English gun stock finish for high end rifles and shotguns like Holland and Holland. It's made from linseed oil and alkanet root. I was thinking about trying to make some with Tung oil because it provides a better protection and dries a little faster than linseed oil. I plan to use it to finish a walnut gun stock for a M1 garand and I want that traditional reddish brown. Let me know what you think? Thanks

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

I am not familiar with Red oil. But I do agree about the tung oil. It would provide better protection. Sam

[@brianlee6849]

@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thanks I will for better protection and it will cure faster also. I live in Eastern Maryland close to Ocean City and it's very humid here I've read linseed oil can be difficult in high humidity. Thanks for your advice

[@blackknightcustom]

Thanks for the video, it was really helpful.

[@franksmiley198]

Hi Sam, thanks for the video. 1st coat, I mixed with denature alcohol 50-50 and, second coat was 100% tung oil. It smelled bad for long and it did not look good. I had to sand it down. It is a big project. Then I applied again pure tung oil and after 4 hours I polished it again. How many more coats do I have to apply and as I had mentioned to you I used them for planter boxes and I want to plant herbs in them and how long should I wait before I put soil and herbs or flowers in them. Thanks for your help. This project is for outside and people can eat the tomatoes and herbs from that box. I need to put them outside as soon as possible.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Frank Tung oil and Denatured alcohol will not mix properly. As seen in the video it should be mixed with paint thinner or mineral spirits. Denatured alcohol is used to thin or mix with shellac or shellac flakes. The number of coats may depend on the wood---how porous or dense it is mainly. Tung oil is tricky to apply. If you get too much on the surface and it dries it will become shiny and some areas will remain dull or dry looking. After each coat is applied, the excess should be wiped off. The tung oil should sit right below the surface. And that is difficult to judge. Sam

[@johnbollinger773]

Would 100% pure tung oil be safe to use on a wooden cup I plan to drink out of? After doing lots of research I think it is but I want to make sure. Would I just put on 2 coats of pure tung oil to ensure it’s safe to drink from?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

John it takes a very long time for pure Tungoil to dry properly it could take two months and then may not be dry. I would not think this would be safe you need to have some thing with a dryer built-in so it dries properly and after a few days or a week it’ll be safe to use I would use a polymerized tung oil. Sam

[@johnbollinger773]

WYOMINGWOODTURNER thank you so much Sam that is very good to know! I’m a bit new to this so I’m glad to have learned this before I made a mistake!

[@likewow7458]

great video. I'm interested in using as a food/body safe seal/finish over acrylic artist paint. I was wondering if there is any reason why this would not work or if i need to take any special steps?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

I just think this would not be the best finish for using OVER paint. It may take a really long time to dry. I would use a spray os some sort. Sam

[@Lee-qp6gf]

Good timing as I got some a little while back but not sure why I did. what does Tung oil do that ,say, Danish oil doesn't?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Lee My real opinion of Tung oil is that, in reality, it may not produce a better finish than Danish oil or Waterlox or many other finishes. I hate to admit this: I turn about 100-150 pieces each year. Some of these I do not sell for 2 years or more. I sometimes pick up a piece and can't remember what finish I put on it. Even if I know that it was an oil, I can't remember which oil or the blend of oils that I used. It is all about how it looks. I think that Tung oil has gotten some great press over the years-mainly by the people selling it. I do think is a great finish, but i also like Varnish a lot and other types of finishes. Sam

[@blackbirdpie217]

If you run out just grab your tongue with a big pair of pliers and squeeze real hard. The Tongue (shortened to tung) oil comes out floating on top of the blood.

[@richardharris5336]

I wanted to get my dad some tung oil for finishing a platter he's planning on making over christmas. Tung oil, as it's food safe. But I've used it before and it can be challenging... what should I get him to thin it down with / make it dry quicker on the first couple of coats? Mineral oils or mineral spirits?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Mineral spirits absolutely. Paint thinner will help the finish dry faster. I think mineral oil will just gum it up. Sam

[@thegreatone-australia1851]

Thanks from Australia - really informative. Can you let me know if I could use Tung Oil on an Estwing Hammer - stacked leather handle?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

I have done a little leather work-cell phone cases and knife sheaths. I believe leather would take more of a non-drying oil. I think a hardening oil may not be good even for a hammer handle. I do use neatsfoot oil on my leather pieces. If the tung oil is pure, non-drying type tung oil, it might be ok. I am just not totally positive. Sam

[@thegreatone-australia1851]

@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER - Thanks appreciate you help Kim

[@franksmiley198]

I have build several planters boxes. I want to plan herbs and vegetables and we are going to eat them. I have used mahogany wood and I have applied tung oil. They are for outside and they will be exposed to sun and rain. Do you think I should apply any finishing over the tung oil because of UV or discoloring? But, it has to be food safe too. I am trying to bring out the reach color of the wood. Thanks

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

I think the tung oil is enough. It is meant to stand alone and it needs nothing over the surface of the tung oil. But you may have to re-apply it once it starts to look dried out. Sam

[@franksmiley198]

thanks

[@deantronnes6730]

I have seen videos on stabelizing wood in a vacuum chamber with polymers but what about using say tung oil or boiled linseed oil in a vacuum chamber instead.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

+Dean Tronnes I don't know if that would work. The resin in a vacuum chamber will cure during the time it is in there. But an oil will take longer. I just don't know???? Interesting Sam

[@mikedennington8856]

Good video easy to understand thanks.

[@DustySplinters]

Sam, true pure drying oils like Tung, Walnut or Linseed if Polymerized is actually raw 100% pure oils which are heated in low oxygen chamber so the the oil will actually dry faster. From my research over the years, there are not many companies doing this and they do not add solvents or driers to anything marked as 100% pure. I might be wrong, but you might be thinking of anything called an oil "Finish". Those are mostly solvents and dryers as you stated. Dryers are not something I would use on any food grade items since I'm not an FDA Chemist and do not know what is acceptable and they may actually be a metallic dryer. Just my 2 cents worth here.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Walter Part of the heating of oils took place (100 plus years ago?) when they actually boiled linseed oil so it would dry faster. That process has been replaced with the dryers. My understanding of finishes is still a shallow pond. Years ago, in Fine woodworking as well as the American woodturner, a writer-Bob Flexnor put out articles on food safe finishes. His conclusion was that all finishes are safe when they are dry. He interviewed the folks at General finishes and they said their finishes were no differently than any other varnish/poly/or polymerized oils. They simply marketed them as food safe. The made no bones about this. If you look on the labels of "food safe" finishes, it will say, safe when cured. I totally believe that all finishes are safe when cured. Including things like shellac. They cover things like candies and medicine with shellac as a protective coating. Anyway, there is so little finish on the surface of wood that it isn't going to harm anyone. Sam

[@DustySplinters]

WYOMINGWOODTURNER You are correct about what was called Boiled years ago, but they also added lead or mercury during the heating process and essentially created Varnishes. There are companies today doing what is essentially a vacuum chamber filled with a raw oil that id heated to a degree where the chains of molecules in the oil change making it Polymerized and dry faster. I'm not a chemist and I too learn about finishes daily. Mineral Oil will absolutely never dry, what happens is it soaks further into the wood or transfers off the wood during use or washings making the wood look drier. I always recommend mineral oil for everyday use items and recommend oiling after each washing once dry. Another great option is a mineral oil soak followed bat a paste made with mineral oil and natural Beeswax. The Beeswax does not wash off as fast, but not recommended for Hot foods. Robin Wood in England uses Pure Organic Flax seed Oil which is a food grade Linseed Oil. Expensive as all get out but extremely safe and it fits his finished look on his pole turned bowls.

[@jeffoldham3466]

sam I need some help,,lol,,im trying to put a finish on black walnut and I cant seem to figure out what to do about the end grain,,,it looks blotchy reguardless of what I do,,i have tried pure shellac,,,ob shine juice also,,and I don't want to keep investing in products that will not get results,,,can you possibly help me,,i really would appreciate it,,thank you

[@gotrading1]

Good video!!! thanks Sam...

[@terryjunek4826]

I HAVE A TUNG OIL TREE. WHAT CANE I DO WITH THE SEED? HOW DO YOU GET THE OIL OUT THE SEED . THANK YOU

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

You have a tung oil tree? I would not have a clue how to get the oil out.....

[@Trees2Pens]

Good info Sam, your dog wanted to be on camera for this video. :-)

[@stakeelderanderson7737]

Tung oil on Alder front door?

[@basicplan1559]

What website did he say to go to for the tung oil?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Here is a link www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/ Sam

[@basicplan1559]

Thanks

[@logangross9477]

Hey Sam, thanks for the video and info. I am finishing a guitar and I'm on my 7th application of tung oil with a combination of wet sanding with 1500 and cotton/elbow grease. After it fully dries, is it possible to apply a few coats of laquer with 0000 steel wool?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

+Logan Gross When I apply a lacquer finish I use either blond shellac or vinyl sealer------ Here is a link to my source. It is Stewart MacDonald who makes guitar making supplies. www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Finishing_Supplies/Finishes_and_Solvents/Behlen_Nitrocellulose_Vinyl_Sealer.html I think there are better foundations for a lacquer finish. Tung oil may be fine. If you proceed with Tung oil. I would cut it back to the surface of the wood. Just use some fine sandpaper. I just have no experience doing this. It may be fine but i just don't know. Let me know how it works. Sam

[@deplorabledave1048]

Ahhh! That is what polymerized means! Original Formula Polymerized Tung Oil from Sutherland Welles Ltd.® The high lustre version...for gun stocks.

[@TomStratton]

Sam, are you saying that you use tung oil on salad bowls, or have I misunderstood? Cheers Tom Stratton KZbin / AcolyteTurner

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Tom No, is the short answer. I can see that the viewer might have assumed that however. Tung oil would not be my first choice for a salad bowl. I probably would not use it on a salad bowl. As the finish on a salad bowl will wear, I would not waste Tung oil on the bowl. I would use Tung oil on a decorative bowl or hollow form. I was trying to explain the importance of a "drying" oil and that to really seal would, the finish should be polymerized. Let me know if this explains things. Thanks Sam

[@TomStratton]

Thanks Sam, that's what I have primarily understood from your previous videos. Tom KZbin / AcolyteTurner

[@daverowley9370]

Pure tung oil dries by exposure to oxygen, not evaporation

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

+Dave Rowley I have always said that I learn more from viewers than they learn from me. You are correct. These two things are not the same. Exposure to oxygen is accurate/not evaporation. Shellac and Lacquer are evaporative finishes. Thanks Sam

[@MrRocky8560]

Can I mix tung oil with a stain?

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

rocky Schroeder Rocky This is an excellent question. One I have never heard before-however. I see no reason why you could not mix Tung oil with stain-------providing the stain is compatible. That is, if the stain has a base of mineral spirits or is soluble with an oil related solvent. Although I think this would work, I think you would lose some control by applying stain this way. You could apply it directly to the wood. When I apply an oil like tung or linseed oil, I wipe a lot of it off the wood. After applying several of coats, how much stain would be left on the wood may not be enough to color the wood to your satisfaction. Sam

[@kaiwenhe5518]

i just want to point out the chinese dont use raw tung oil as wood finish , we always heat treated it to BTO first .

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Thanks, I did not know that. I never thought of Tung oil in the raw form. For me, and perhaps others, Tung oil is confusing. Finishes and finishing is such a complex topic. I suppose "raw" tung oil is comparable to "raw" linseed oil. They must be processed in a way that will allow proper drying....thanks Sam

[@stewmiller778]

But, Tung Oil doesn't dry, it polymerizes when exposed to oxygen.

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Stew, by definition a polymer is a dryer added to a finish that changes it from a liquid to a hard solid: it polymerizes or dries. When you say "polymerizes" that is basically the word that describes the drying process. Here is a link to an article in Popular Woodworking: goo.gl/44C4GY In my opinion.....a true wood finish MUST dry. Or it polymerizes. Thanks Sam

[@bitTorrenter]

$48 total for a quart?! I can get a litre for £18 where I am.

[@bradlindblad5225]

WOw this is great advice here. It's amazing how beautiful a project comes out when you put in some elbow grease. I love how tung oil doesn't leave dust nibs and hairs in your finish like poly does. It's also a bonus that the finished wood just begs to be caressed like a $3000 gun stock or a Taylor guitar. I've been using this tung oil that is made with orange peels, smells awesome! orangetungoil.com

[@WYOMINGWOODTURNER]

Brad Lindblad Thanks very much. I have myself been using more tung oil.....life is too short to use junk-right. Sam

[@bradlindblad5225]

Yup!