Yamaha R1 onboard CO fuel tuner explained

[@trevs6686]

Hey mate, I noticed the bike seemed to stall when you were coming to a stop. I'm having the same issue. Did this come about when you were adjusting the CO settings? The issue I'm experiencing is it starts and idles fine both cold and warm. If I'm riding up in 3rd gear for e.g. and then have to slow down to come to a stop for lights or a roundabout etc when I pull the clutch lever the engine dies. Blip shifting up and down is fine, it's only if I fully pull the clutch lever in with no throttle. (I'm the guy that bought the bike btw, stumbled across your videos when looking for solutions). - serviced it with new airfilter, plugs, etc - new chain and sprocket - got the exup 17 error code intermittently when riding. Have tried it manually fully open and fully closed and have since servo motor removed and deleted with a plug. - synced the throttle body - checked TPS old plugs cylinder 1 & 2 looked a bit rich, 3 and 4 looked pretty good.

[@sparkthego]

Hey hey! fancy seeing you here LOL, I used to run the bike slightly lean around -8 on all C1-4 values. Before I sold the bike I set all the values to 0 because thats how I bought it, but it runs rich from the factory. I've never had an issue with stalling either at 0 and or at the leaner values, the only reason it was stalling in the video was because the C values were at -25 (I think or some other stupid values) just for demonstrating in the video. I never had stalling issues otherwise before or after the video. Did you notice the stalling after the exup delete? The code was probably throwing error 17 because of the change from -8 to 0 but this is only a temporary problem since 17 isn't really and error but more the fact that the exup was needed to readjust. I probably wouldn't have deleted the exup because of that. BTW there is a bit of a paradox in this video, the beginning part was actually recorded at the end after putting everything back to my typical -8 C values and riding it back home, as you can see there were no issues and thats how the bike always ran for me.

[@mattaccordr1253]

A stock R1 is going to run rich from the factory plus the stock IAP mapping/O2 senser will make changes for the range. I would suggest you look into an ECU flash with any new performance mods like exhaust, air filter etc.

[@stevnger]

Wrong, they run lean cause of emissions and there is no 02 sensor on a 5vy so you don't know what you're talking about. Lol

[@mattaccordr1253]

This bike is a 2007 or 2008 which is not a 5vy. Yamaha went to 4 valves in 07 which is the 4c8.

[@mattaccordr1253]

@@stevnger The 08 r1 is not a 5VY.

[@qtipsters]

Its not cylinder. I only changed c3 on my 03 r6 and only change was stronger 4k and up, plus my popping on decel all but stopped. And it was bad. Bike was sluggish in low rpm before. Doesnt make sense to only tweak a cylinder too.

[@sparkthego]

I said in the video, R6 is the range value and R1 is CO per cylinder. Its different for the two bikes hence why there so much confusion about what it does.

[@stevnger]

Changing it without a dyon is dangerous, you dont know how its running without a/f gauge or a sniffer from a dyno. You are gonna have people damaging their engine from this. Also it only is for low rpm range. Read about it on the r1-forum

[@sparkthego]

Back when people had carburettors we used to do this all the time, actually they wanted to replicate the carburettor functionality thats why they put the feature there to replicate the tweaking you can do on carbys.