How to Create a Pattern from a Muslin Drape

[@pcolaspike2719]

Ok, I know this video is 4 years old, but I just found it. Hallelujah! For the first time in 20 years, I now understand what "trueing your darts" means AND how to do it. Such a simple thing that was never shown or explained to me other than I "needed to do it." Showing how to make 90-degree angles before curves, and matching all the seam lengths, were both priceless lessons too. I finally understand why every pattern I've ever made had the problems that they did and how to avoid them going forward. Thank you!

[@laurietrayers]

I like your videos. I always saw fashion as s vanity industry. Your channel shows the real skills of the professionals behind the clothes we take for granted. This is amazing to watch a garment go from a drape to a pattern. I appreciate my clothing more; some skilled people put it together.

[@ladyjunon6305]

It depends on which side you're on. If you're a customer, most likely yes. If you're a designer, pattern maker, seamstress, it's more on the art and skill rather than pure vanity.

[@noeljordanracca723]

Thank you so much, Zoe and Myriah for teaching us the basics of Patternmaking. I believe Pattern making is an important skill that every designer should know for it is not mainly for Patternmakers or seamstresses alone. But as a designer, we must learn and know it by heart. I hope to see more tutorial about Patternmaking and sewing in the future. Thank you and much love from the Philippines.

[@cvasoyan6065]

Yes, a future video on "How to shift out dart seams" would be great.

[@alexandria6007]

Yes, please!

[@m.s.4768]

Yes!!!!

[@maeolaogden5223]

Mariah is such good teacher. Really enjoy learning from her.

[@purelivingfoodsbygina4244]

Wow as a new sewer this is fantastic Zoe- these beginner tutorials are gold, Myriah is a wonderful teacher especially when you are a total beginner- but learning the right skills that seamstresses do is brilliant. thank you, yes please would love Myriah and yourself in more tutorials. Thanks. Gina in Ireland xx

[@hypatia4754]

This was brilliant! It answered so many questions I've had since I've been using commercial patterns as a teenager. I can't thank you enough. Well instructed and concise, no waffling. Appreciated!

[@jennyobiliseen4301]

Mryiah is so camera ready! I’m really excited for the rest of her videos and of your series design with me!!!

[@classicalbk]

So smart tracing the draped piece instead of using the pokey tracing wheel! You've saved a whole step. Fabulous.

[@kornellas1]

These have been THE BEST sewing pattern videos I have watched. SOOOO CLEAR and great pacing! I finally understand patterns! Thank you!

[@donnajulliet]

Omg love this, I was taught to use carbon paper with a tracing wheel, but this method with tracing paper over the Muslim, damn, game changer, thank you so much to both of you ❤

[@BreezyScout-gz9qe]

These videos are incredible definitely made sooo much about patterns clearer to me and encouraged me to try making my own patterns to my own measurements

[@elainebates6967]

Thank you so much for the pattern drafting hints and tips. I have only started drafting patterns but been sewing for over 4 decades. I never knew about the single and double notches or different ink colour meanings. Your videos have been teaching me so very much, thank you.

[@zoehongteaches]

you're welcome!

[@mahlina1220]

Wow!! So neat. I was always curious how pattern making starts. So intricate to drape a figure, but that's where great fashion starts, structurally. AMAZING!!❤️

[@bluewave4163]

I learnt so much more from the last 3 videos (including it) then I learnt from my 3 years designing college....

[@qhudsia]

Omg...yes I do love Mariah! I took a pattern drafting class and her explanation of everything made so much more sense and clicked much better. Thank you so much for making this video.

[@mariecrowe8843]

So immensely glad to have found your channel! Brilliantly delivered, packed with all the information I seem to have missed over the years. Yes Mariah was fantastic, as are you. Keep up the good work 🕉❤️

[@shopgirlkc]

I have learned so much! Love you. Love Mariah. Your videos are great, and I cannot wait to see what comes next in this series, so I can make my own clothes!

[@the_bowiekid]

Amazing. We love Myriah ! ❤️ She’s part of the family. Thanks.

[@lindagroskopf3749]

I have been sewing for 30+ years but have been itching to try draping. So excited to find your amazing tutorial. I am confused just a bit - by draping directly on sized mannequin how do you get the wearing ease? If anyone know I would greatly appreciate the knowledge.

[@zoehongteaches]

The ease traditionally gets added to the pattern of the new design but not to the block. This drape and pattern in the video is for a block. You base all your patterns on the block and adjust the fit and ease on the style you're drafting.

[@lindagroskopf3749]

Thank You, so very much that makes so much more sense.

[@JamieSantellano]

I’m loving this series! Thank you!! And thank you to Myriah as well. Do you have a video showing how to remove the draped muslin from the dress form? I believe it was mentioned in the video about how to drape the muslin, but I’ve not been successful finding it. If you don’t have a video demo of that no worries. Thought I’d ask. 😊 thanks again! I’ve learned quite a bit watching this series. I look forward to more! 💖

[@lynnm.johnson5755]

I think that got skipped. They may have been having technical difficulties when filming. I assume the dart ends, seam stitching lines ect. may get traced with a pencil while the muslin is on the dress form. Remove the fabric, lay it flat & connect the dots. Make the lines with a marker or dark wax pencil, chalk? (Anyone know?) Then put the muslin under the paper you are using. I'm learning too. Been sewing for decades but have not had these skills. These are fabulous videos!

[@silversagapatterns]

AHmazing! Very clear and professional as always. I have a Stockman mannequin which don’t have any armhole shape, when draping I struggle to get the armhole height and shape correctly. Any suggestions from Myriah?

[@MichelleChinMoYouStudios]

Both veidos were very thorough. As a beginner I found them to be the fundamentals to draping. Thank you. #lovethese

[@racovitadiana417]

Amazing! Zoe, you're awesome thank you for giving us this!hours of studying in two videos!

[@claire7566]

Thanks Zoe, I recently learnt all of this in class, but it's easy to forget the smaller details so thank you for putting it all in a simple video that I can watch to remind me :) greatly appreciated xx

[@kchong3502]

Hi there. Fantastic so helpful. Should I drape my pattern block or stick with drafting it from the off as a flat pattern. Thanks

[@yaminanatsaret]

Please do how to draft a sleeve to match a bodice! That would help me a lot. Maybe even grading patterns too?

[@zoehongteaches]

I will not do grading videos. I don't know how to grade and designers don't really need to learn it. We all send it out to professional graders. Sleeve video is in the queue.

[@Internetusage123]

@@zoehongteaches hi Zoe, did you post the sleeve video?

[@janspn2993]

Hi Zoe, I'm new to sewing and have recently found your videos, I really enjoy them especially the Fabric 101 video and the draping video and this one- they're informative in a truly accessible way, thank you for that. I'd really love a video on best books, videos and resources on how to pattern draft (for people without access to a specialist fashion or arts library).

[@walteraddie7925]

Awesome training video. Not that I really plan to draft patterns but it sure helps to understand using them. I think this identified issues I had with a pattern once cut. I think they didn't walk the pieces so I had some wonky fitting pieces. It also had misaligned seams at curves even though they were not dart areas. Thanks so much for doing these video's.

[@zoehongteaches]

Yup, does sound like they didn't walk the pattern. Glad you found this helpful!

[@f8nomore]

You should definitely have Myriah back. And yes, please make a tutorial on drafting sleeves. :)

[@teatimez6714]

Yay, I was so intimidated about draping and making a flat pattern from a muzlin before! I definately am excited wo work a lot on that. I am going to start saving for more materials and a form💝. Yes please do share about shifting darts! Also anything to do with princess seams, sometime, if you like🙏. Hope you all are treating yourselves to lots of tea, and not skipping meals💛Take care❣-HZ

[@zoehongteaches]

Dart manipulation video is now in the Garment Construction playlist.

[@teatimez6714]

Wehoo! 😆

[@waterbitten]

Oh my god is this is it!!! I be been waiting... Im literally commenting and I haven't even started watching..

[@chinonsovictor6531]

So, I just made my first bodice and I actually cut away my darts. 😩 I had to come back to this amazing video. Thank you Zoe. 😁

[@A.N.A_youtube]

These videos were great. I'm excited to drape and transfer. Wish me luck!

[@sophierosebisou8420]

By eliminating the lower waist dart on the back drape, doesn’t it throw the cross grain off in the side seam? We always drew a perpendicular line to the center front and center back seams with an “L square ruler (not shown in your equipment segment.). In design school, I learned the lower dart helped in manipulating the “sloper” (haven’t heard you mention this term yet- not sure if it’s still used?) instead of the larger shoulder dart that Myriah mentions can be re-manipulated into other designs, ie. princess seams, which would benefit from the lower dart as placement. It’s been so enjoyable to see your videos for the newer generations of fashion lovers/slaves! It’s brought back many years of memories working in the field. Good luck with finishing your book. I can’t wait for it’s release! 💋💋

[@mehere1482]

THESE VIDEOS ARE GOLD

[@stefaniac2095]

I love your method, so much better than what I learnt at FIDM

[@patbrown8687]

The video is very thorough. Thanks I’m learning how to “true” a pattern.

[@yuvan1999]

Loved this video!!! Was very informative!! That 90 degree angle at seams tip was especially eye opening haha! A few questions: 1) Don't all the darts on a bodice need to end at the bust point? 2) How would you pivot a dart that's doesn't end at the bust point? As in, what would you use as the pivot point?

[@zoehongteaches]

1. You never end a dart at the apex unless you want a cone bra look. 2. That's what the upcoming video will cover.

[@yuvan1999]

1) Yes, but when you're in the first stages of developing a pattern, you have it up to the bust point. But, once you finalize your darts, you move them away from the bust point by about an inch. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 2) Got ya! Can't wait!

[@zoehongteaches]

If you watch the draping video, Myriah went over draping darts away from the apex and why. It starts at the very beginning of the process.

[@yuvan1999]

Rewatched the video, and I think I understand a little bit now. I'm sure I'll understand completely when I see the video about how to pivot the dart! Thanks Zoe!

[@cassandraberry5710]

Enjoyed the both of you. Very knowledgeable and encouraging. Thanks so much for the video.

[@misslyenastrama]

i love this channel keep more videos coming Zoe! Mariah is amazing as well! Learned alot from you guys!

[@Candiflozz]

Is it more standard in the fashion industry to go from drape to pattern like this or to go from drafted pattern to muslin? As a home sewist I tend to draft patterns from my measurements and basic 2d slopers so that they fit my long back and low waist properly, but it was interesting to see the process go in the opposite direction. I've recently purchased my first dressform so I can dabble in 3d design and draping more in future, but would definitely second all of the requests for a sleeves and armscyes video. Thank you both for this series.

[@zoehongteaches]

There will be times where draping a design will be easier than drafting it first, usually with more complex garments. We demo on a basic bodice because it's easy to understanding but these skills translate to more complicated drapes as well so the steps are necessary to learn.

[@lynetterene]

Thank you for this.....I needed to see this in the worse way....everything is coming together!!!

[@chareseshinabery]

Looove learning from both you and Mariah. Really helpful video

[@virginiagonzalez2422]

Excellent tutorial! Thanks a lot Zoe and Myriah Please Myriah come back! Please! Please! Please!

[@erly186]

You are my favorite. Thank you for giving us so much.

[@marisaanthony426]

Which ruler sets would you recommend? Did you add pencil lines (example armholes) on muslin while it was pinned to dress form?

[@superflystudios19]

Hi, did you make a video how to take the bodice off the form?

[@reefprayerresin]

Wow. There’s so much to sewing that I didn’t know about!

[@cvasoyan6065]

There was a statement made saying, I straightened out the line (pointing at the side seam) bc the body is curvy and you used a straight edge ruler. Thus, here's my question; why not use the French ruler since the body is curved?

[@saminamirza5094]

The dart, once sewn, takes care of hugging the side curve of the body (as well as other curves). Oops, I couldn't help answering that, instead of waiting for Zoe. Correct me if my answer is incorrect, please.

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, the dart does deal with the curves. Also, there comes a point in patternmaking, especially for manufacturing, where you want a bit more of general fit so you generalize the lines some, straightening slight curves here and there to fit a more broad spectrum of people, not just that dress form.

[@teatimez6714]

Hmm, interesting😊

[@masterluxai2118]

So amazing. Loved you both instructing

[@ngoziodigbo8117]

Great video - very helpful. Why don't you have a dart to the waistline on the back piece?

[@jenayajenkins3430]

Hey Zoe! Would love to see a video on how to remove darts from the draped pattern. Thanks for all your informative videos :)

[@fabienne1761]

Thank you I have learned so much in just a few hours. I hope that you will do more!!!

[@joannfagen4457]

Best video that I have seen, thank you so much.

[@carolsloanes4938]

HI Zoe, I didn't understand why was it necessary to create a complete front bodice pattern when your placing the half front bodice pattern onto a fold. Was that for industrial cutting purposes not the domestic market. Thanks an excellent video as usual.

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, my construction methods are geared towards industry purposes.

[@pilarneary3526]

Thank you for your exellent explanations, Ms. Zoe!! You inspire me to attempt to sew again. My dream is to be able to make a Chanel style jacket for me. I have a challenging to fit body😢 (very bottom heavy) so ready made garments never fit. I try making vents, etc. so I can button them, but it always looks bad 😥. I would like to learn how to alter patterns for me. Any reccomendations? Thank you!! 🌺🤗🌺

[@zoehongteaches]

Pick up a book on fitting. Those books analyze fit issues and how to adjust your pattern according to your need. I have book recs at amazon.com/shop/zoehong

[@pilarneary3526]

Thank you for your reply and thank you for your recommendation, Ms. Zoe. You are sooo nice! Also, I love your sense of humor. 🌺🤗🌺

[@licorice71]

Youre AWESOME Zoe . Learning so much !

[@grizzlybear901]

Please do the shifting dart video.

[@kendahamilton8822]

Yes please a whole series on pattern drafting please 🙏

[@darrentrentacosta]

Curious, at 4 mins she states that she is making a straight line b/c the line she drew from the bust form is curved...by making the line straight aren't you then causing the garment to pull against the body's natural curve?...love this video!

[@harmanneerajdeora7728]

Great info with great detailing loved it

[@cvasoyan6065]

Thank for replying quickly. Boy, you don't waste any time.

[@tobymcduffie6184]

I bought a cheap craft paper punch that makes big holes for about $10 on Amazon vs the $80 bunny punch. Can’t get the holes too far into the pattern though. Saving that purchase for another day!

[@diannetesta]

Great video...thanks so much. You two make a great team. Please more videos

[@ldm7770]

Yay was looking forward to the next episode!!😃 thank you!

[@bobbimcconnell1884]

517 times faster. You are hilarious. Very informative. I just discovered you

[@ren-p2r]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I love your channel❤️🥰

[@RNFundsEducator]

I use exam table paper for pattern adjustments all the time. It's super cheap and is available from Amazon.

[@cvasoyan6065]

Where do you pay that paper from??

[@RNFundsEducator]

Amazon: www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=exam+table+paper

[@donnajohnston4263]

Yes! would love to see how to move dart from shoulder to waist. Is it a specific formula?

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, there's a method to follow.

[@MicheleBonna]

I know this is a year old and you may not see this, but I was wondering why add the seam allowances before walking the pattern if you only use the sew line to check? There may be a good reason, but I am very much an amateur and from here it seems messier to fix two lines. Would it mess up any of the design to add the seam allowances after walking it and adjusting?

[@jessixyooj]

Could you do one on everything about sleeves? That’s my trouble area!

[@linarodz2165]

yes please make a tutorial for the darts, thank you so much

[@KumkumKat]

Hi Myriah, I am a new in fashion or you can say new in sewing. I bought adjustable dress form and I have sew one sleeveless blouse. When I put it on dress form armholes doesn't match to the blouse armhole. I done Sleeveless blouse from the commercial pattern. Can you guide me why this happened please. Doesn't it dress form armhole should match to pattern armhole?

[@morougecanada]

How do you add flare to the hem?slash and spread ? If it's a sift dress, can I just add 1 and 1/2 inches to the hem line and join that to the bust line? That way there will be no 90 degree at the hem, is that going to cause problems at sewing the garment together?

[@nooralhaddad381]

Love your videos 💕 I’m learning a lot Keep it up 👍🏽

[@jododds2416]

Hi Zoe and Myriah, I found your tutorial so useful. Do I need to add ease to my paper pattern once made as you showed or is that just part of the design if required? Thank you!

[@zoehongteaches]

Add it to your paper pattern.

[@JenSutton2023]

Are you still producing vlogs? I love them and learn so much even though they are way beyond my skill set at the moment.

[@kchong3502]

Can you do another video showing how you makt the back shoulder seam and a wait dart on the back and how that measurement is shared between the two area, that’s if you haven’t already done one. Thank you

[@mariecrowe8843]

Brilliant series of videos 👍

[@sandrarr5434]

Hi thanks soo much.. I'm a beginner and I tried the darts but when I folded my dart, the hem did meet like the one In the videeo

[@larsrosen6826]

Yay! Ive been waiting for this to come out!

[@vidosavaterzic6302]

Thank you so much both you, and you are truly great.

[@topea.6378]

Thank you so much for this, yes i would like a video on shifting darts.

[@evalucilledixon3879]

Notches help me line up the fabric pattern. I like to match that perfectly. Good 'notches'. ~ L

[@Eddxy9]

Wow! I love this

[@andrealee720]

Love these Videos- such clear instructions

[@BeatrizTiti]

Thank you for these tutorials. If you have a dress form small like yours, can you change the size of a pattern from 6 to 14? And if yes, how?

[@zoehongteaches]

The process of making small patterns bigger, and vice versa, is called grading and there are many books on this subject.

[@JessicaFlores-kp1fd]

Definitely want to know how to shift darts!

[@lindagriffin2922]

I found this really helpful, thank you both

[@mariaelenachavira8315]

Zoe, Thanks! I have learned a lot! Thanks a lot to Mariah too! Yes, a like more videos on "How to shift out fart seams" please! Thanks a lot!

[@zoehongteaches]

Check the Garment Construction playlist.

[@Liusila]

Where’s the video where she takes the muslin off the bodice?

[@morougecanada]

Thanks Zoe and Mariah! I have a question regarding the armhole notch direction, so it' s Not perpendicular to the edge of the pattern there? And another question,the hole made with the punch is supposed to be where the dart seam ends, right?

[@zoehongteaches]

Armhole notch should be perpendicular. The dart hole punch is 1/2" from the dart end.

[@morougecanada]

@@zoehongteaches I was doing the armhole notches totally wrong, thank you so much!

[@salvadorsantillan1309]

So much useful information! Thank you!

[@Jackofallthing]

Do you really absolutely have to make a pattern after using the muslin? Or can you just use the muslin to cut out the fabric?

[@SHELLY53100]

Very Informative. Thanks for sharing. I love your videos too.

[@stylingwithvictoria-person9726]

Zoe: this is supposed to be a very tight top, correct? based on the draping done before, there was not additional cm for some air inside... Just asking and thank you very much for all these greats videos!

[@zoehongteaches]

This is meant to be a base, a pattern block. If you have the precise fit, you can build other styles off this fit, by adding ease or volume in proportion to the precise fit.

[@kimikp6684]

Thank you ☺ Grt video once agen.. I ws wondering if u guys wud b doin a basic bodice pattern frm scratch ...(from body measurements) I alwys ave sum trouble gettin the fit right...

[@allythompson6973]

umm you said you would show how to take it down :(

[@allangradus1917]

A lot of bodice's have a back waist dart as well as a shoulder dart. How do you determine the size and placement of a back dart?

[@zoehongteaches]

Placement of waist darts usually align with the princess seam, or approximately halfway between the center front and side seam, adjusted for fit of course. The size of a back waist dart should be difference between the half the back chest circumference and half of the back waist.