You mean the transducer ?

@@PaddleGuy1 yeah my bad,

magic and thigh braces

... dear lisa dear lisa

👍

i have been in some schop in the estuary and stability is fine if thats a concern, that then cones down to your experience, trus the hull and rlax then you genearally wont have a drama - if your talking waves thay could splash water over the sides then make sure you have a bail of somesorts as there is no drain while on water and the bung is unbder the hull for draining it out at land- wind and inflatables are not a great combination due to the weight of the inflatable so plan your trips as best you can to avoid wind - ask BCF to pump one up for you - does not take that long to do

There are 2 x RIBPorts glued to the kayak standard and I added 2 more - there are some instructions on the RAILBLAZA RIBPort page on how to attach these and I strongly recommend glueing over using the 3m VHB tape provided with the RIBPort or QuikPort as that is only of use with flatter surfaces - anything with slight curvature needs to be glued using the Hypolon or PVC glue/repair kits availlable through Whitworths marine or RTM - not sure if BCF also sell these kits

that'll work - got plenty of room in the cockpit for 2 - tbh i did not paddle far like that but seemed maneagable - even easier with the motor obviously

@@PaddleGuy1 thank you!

Thanks buddy - full vid due soon just been busy with life stuff and things

there is a bunch of models they don't fit - some of the bigger OT Hulls and native hulls.

QLD AU - mate, why?

As with any inflatable the compromise to that weight saving is that wind is not so favourable particularly when only lightly loaded - it has a 7” fin which helps and the motor if you fit one will certainly offset the wind. Only time wind was a hindrance to me was when drifting not so much when paddling so I used a small sea anchor / parachute to slow me down. Hope that helps, no matter which craft you get there will be a compromise somewhere it’s just about choosing one that has compromises for the things that are less important to your needs

There’s really no best just options and compromises. But as far as ocean going capable fishing Kayaks go then Viking, Hobie and Stealth are all options to consider. They all have their very owns pros and cons, you need to identify the features that would benefit you the most and make your choice that way.

Thanks for the reply!@@PaddleGuy1

Yes stability is without question- durability, it’s an inflatable kayak so treat it like one and it will be fine, confuse it with a platic kayak and you will have problems. Pretty sure the motor bracket is only recommended for electric motors, I am using the Bixpy electric motor

No

anything is better than the standard viking paddle, find a local dealer who sells anything in glass blade/carbon blend shaft or go full carbon if your budget allows - I dont have a brand to suggest but a local retailer will have options for you - Glass blade or carbon either you will be winning compared to that shitter the Viking comes with - only use for that is as a spare paddle in the hatch IMHO

thanks - never seen one but just googled images and looks like a nice ride and would be super light being vacuum-formed.. love to try one - Hurrican boats are pretty sweet so could only imagine its a nice ride

@@PaddleGuy1 also with the Viking espri I’m really interested in doing distance ( straight line stuff) would you recommend a kayak with a rudder or the espri will do just fine

I would add them straight away - no brainer that one 😀

I had forgot about the thigh braces! That is a good idea - stealth is easy recovery too -

From what I understand from feedback from other owners is straight out of the factory the hatch is dry with waves coming over etc but not so much if you get rolled in the surf, then it can take a bit on - I would be adding some extra protection in the way of a bigger rubber seal around the hatch rim and lid much like I do on the Viking central hatchs

Really?

sweet then more fish for me on my boat ;-)

That's one heck of a wait time ! hoe you get to blood it first trip

could not confidently answer that one sorry - you need to take the risk and find out - would be similar but not sure how close

sorry for the delay - I both keep on hand on it as I walk down to the stern and ensure the stern is resting on something none slip - often just take the rubber matt from one of the car seat flooring positions and put that on the ground - a cheap yoga mat kept in the car would also work

understood - have you tried researching for the motor and bracket I use? BIXPY - not the cheapest but very much the most user friendly for this product I feel ..as far as falling out goes its pretty hard to do in this kayak as its super stable...I have been in many different kayaks over the years and this one is super stable comparitevly - getting back into this one with such high sides would have its challenges but if you were to practise it in shallow water that will give you confidence it can be done..I would get back on this one from the stern which is the lowers and narrowest section - lay flat on your belly and work your way into the mid section

Age shouldn't be a barrier to using kayaks, fitness IS important! Start out in easy conditions and your fitness will increase. I'm 71.

correct or pick a day with no swell and drag your kayak up on the rocks on eastern side of the island

How long did it take?

@@johnnygun85 20mns

river beds with smooth is rocks no problems and this is where I use it. its inflatable so if the rocks are sharp then take more care and lift it where possible, the hull material is seperate to the inflated floor so you have a barrier there before penetrating any of the parts that take air, I have not yet punctured the floor as that under layer is very strong. just note the drain bung is exposed so if your doing that alot you will likely rip it off as I did - I patched the area where the bung was which seals it - si to remove any water you bring into the kayak you need to spong or tip it over as per a more traditional sit in canoe style