You won’t believe it! Just picked up another pallet of transformers! Lots of HOWARDS! Double copper:) 150 W 400,1000 and a few 1500! Howard’s and double copper are rare! 😂😇

A NEW LEVEL ! OF CONFIDENCE AND POWER !

The aluminium isn't a loss, it's a gain, being more valuable than steel. Being just spacers for air cooling, they could have been fibreglass worth nothing. No way they would've wasted copper for spacers. Only loss is time to remove them. How do you get good money with all the plastic on?

Are you going to get the other trailer fixed soon? I saw you got the new spindle.

Hopefully you videoed the dismantling so you can go back and see how it came apart . Haha.

it's good you cleaned up that stuff, the neighbors might think you're starting your own steel yard !

For reworking features, especially where you're already running Least Material Conditions i.e the already proportionally large width of the nodes: if you haven't been shown how to use an edge-finder, you'll want to have Steve give you the rundown. It's a .5" cylinder with a spring connected floating piece, you flick it to break the cylinder and find the true edge when it solidifies, then offset .25" for center. Then re-offset tool radius. Find the difference in height from O -15^ on the Z-axis. This step is important because cutting into that slope right off will leave a little triangle next to that original arc, so there will be a small x-axis movement, and you don't want a channel at the bottom of your pocket (though it would be removed anyhow cutting off the nodes). If you eyeball it, you might see the corner profile of the tool on your inner flat surface. You can download a trig calculator app on your phone, super basic plug n play numbers for the side view triangle math. When you have a DRO, these calculations are pretty standard. We had a sine bar and gage block set at our disposal, but the effect is the same with a tilted head. The advantage of the setup tooling is lighter components to manipulate on exact surfaces v possible tool deflection or movement of the tilted head with it's weight and gravity. Remember to use a tool with 4+ flutes for steel.

I keep thinking my phones about to ring

great video on making that money every little bit helps and we as watcher enjoy your videos and we sent things to help thats how much we enjoy your videos .thanks for shareing

To prevent the metal from locking in the mold the edges are normally built with what is commonly referred to as a Draft on the edges, which is an angled edge, even plastics have a draft on the edges to help remove products from the molds. 45 degree draft is the best for your molds.

I knew the chisels would come in handy some day.

The spoon is SS. Should work better than something from the kitchen. You always need phillip bits and extra sockets. You were taking apart a light fixture and needed an allen a couple months back. Decided to send both SAE and metric. Enjoy.

Hi Project Shop FL & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Project Shop FL & Friends Randy

Best episode this year brother. To stop pour lines you need to keep all the liquid copper liquid. You achieve this by having another blow torch on the ingot mold even whilst you are pouring this way it all freezes at the same time. Silver and gold uses this method. You put extra money on ingots because of the time it takes to create. Knowing you they will be mirrored. And if you use your head and get a steel channel stamp. Stamp these bad boys up then price will be worth it. Credit card sizes roll ed copper press out perfect ingots as a million people 2 dollars each. Smashing it and if you do become a million air because of it I win the holiday catch up with you in the next episode brother

$200 is lunch and fuel... call it 150-160 mile round trip... yeah--I get it man... life's expensive on the road.

cOOL SCRAP RUN , AT LEAST YOU CAN FILL UP YOUR TRUCK , DIESEL AIN'T CHEAP ,i'VE GOT A 7.3 POWERSTROKE WITH 120K MILES AND IS 21 YEARS OLD . hAVE AN AWESOME LUNcH . 15 degree angle edges in the mold will really help drop the ingots out of the mold .

Nice scrap run. Ingot maker 2.0 will be great. Looking good!

" $220 , we might be able to afford lunch ", dude you got to stop eating at restaurants with cloth napkins... LOL

Great video nice looking load

Dude u should jet wash your drive way

nice job . what would you class well wire thats black. but all plastic comes off

Cop (pper) til' you drop !

Can't wait for the Merch.

Love this !

Sometimes if there's a fixed range of motion on something that locks down a part there's a break in the movement. idk what that's called but it might look something like [_____ _____] if flattened out. Try torqueing it to one side and pulling on that allen screw while you slowly unscrew it. Might be some kind of keyway component. Some of this stuff really is layers of trade secret, you're doing the right thing starting out by dismantling the beast.

It's great, no downtime. Always a head full of projects. Soon some shavings to remake copper king. 👍

Find someone that knows how to maintain and run the lathe before you mess everything up.

Idk how you deal with the wd-40 smell. If I get a drop on me I can’t stop smelling it for days😂. Cigarettes start tasting more toxic than they already do😅

I would of got the electricals sorted out and switched on to make its working before cleaning it up.

I have the same lathe. That allen screw looking thing on the side of the compound is actually a cam lock pin. From the locked position ( full clockwise position) turn it back about 90 degrees and pull the pin out. Now you can lift the compound off of the cross slide.

What is that hydraulic press called?

- Next time at the Dollar Store buy a handful of tooth brushes for cleaning nooks and crannies.

Brother I saw bearings inside. So it's pulled from the top or use the press to push out from bottom. Looking awesome brother can't wait to see that bad boy up and running.

At least parts should be easier to get 😊

There’s one of those coolant lines I was trying to tell you to get for the lathe if you figure out a coolant collection and recirculating system. It’s blue with orange end they snap together like legos idk what they are called. I love that song that played during the fast forward but idk what it’s called,it’s in a lot of your videos. We used a lot of air from the compressor to blow crap out of the holes and grooves and stuff getcha one of those needle sprayers you hook on the air hose and give it hell. Love your channel man.

Power switch must be overheated, plastic crumbled to dust. You gonna need a new one.

Any update on the forklift project that you were working on a while back.

Korean Advanced Stator wrecker. Whoo ! This guy has it dialed in big time. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZrJc4trna-hopo

Hi Derek, on that screw that you are trying to remove with the allen wrench, is it possible that you have to rotate the metal plate to allow that screw to turn more. While you try to unscrew the allen screw, slowly rotate that metal piece that the allen is screwed into. It’s just a guess but that may the allen screw to be released. One other thought❤…. In that countersunk circle with the hole in it, could there be a small screw at the bottom of it that screws into the allen screw. These are just guesses since I don’t have the item in front of me to see. Can I mail something to your shop? I know I have letters and numbers for pressing around here and I’d like to send them to you so you don’t have to buy them. With my health I’ll never get the chance to ever use them again. Take care and May God Bless you buddy.

im glad your starting to clen it of and getting it ready to go back to work for you thanks for shareing another great video

You always have great videos and are very interesting

You might simply want to taper the two inside faces of the feet so the shrinkage will actually aid in pushing out the piece.

The material difference makes cooling of the ingot faster than the steel, in this case you used aluminum. Aluminum, like in heat sinks dissipates temperature. When you cooled the mold with the ingot, the steel shrank with the aluminum. The design of your mold, with the nodes, had an internal vice clamping those features when the steel cooled. This is actually a method used in some collets for ultra-high precision work. In the future, you'll want to use this faster rate of cooling to make the difference in seal around the surface area of the ingot, pop it out before you quench. Instead of bashing at a mold, running ongoing disfiguration, place it on it's side on a vibrating surface. Your stripper oscillates, clamp a plane to one of it's panels and rest it on there, in theory it'll separate the 2 items with low effort. It will be hot, so don't forget and grab it. Makeshift barrier for containment. Also, getting your mold wet limits your ability to repeat cast, you should break this habit before you move to larger melts where you'll need any and all available basins to pour into. Otherwise you leave material in the crucible, and it'll pool at the bottom, and the expansion of the metal from this state can crack your crucible when you begin reheating. Chunks of metal are good, fitting loosely to support a liquid state. If you do pop out a node from the bottom of a cold state crucible, throw some loose pieces in before the form-fitting piece. Another OG method is if for whatever reason you Do have to let material cool in the crucible [cuz life makes all types of problems] let the metal cool with the crucible at a tilt, preferably so the leftovers at the bottom don't fill the bottom of the basin. The theory here is if you can't remove the rest of the material after cooling, you remove the lateral stress against the planar cross-sectional ring when reheating. I hope you understand that last part, it's like how speeds and feeds extend the life of tooling, graphite has limited use before needing replacement. The loss of sharp edges might've been the graphite powder. When you poured, it's likely it just displaced it to the edges. I've only poured in graphite so I have no XP in loose powder. No need to fret about off-perfect pours, when you start getting volume, you'll streamline and it'd be like scrutinizing the break on the transformers in the hydraulic stamp. **Looks like someone else pointed out the center pinch in the live comments. It would make sense to have one large gripping block, but a fast way to mod what you have would be to add a slope to just those internal walls. Like you did with the mold walls, tilt the head 15^ and hit those chafed wall features in the mold. You'll still have your intended flat gripping surfaces, just less resistance on extraction.

Definitely wouldn’t go in my yard!

Would like to see how you cut the ac compressors. Nice haul.

molten Aluminum cools slowly, so there's no need to pour it quickly. Take your time pouring the Aluminum. You may even have enough time to skim off slag you may have accidently poured into the mold. When are you going to transition into pouring LEAD? There's plenty of outdoor gun ranges you can gather free LEAD from. Just be sure to ask the rangemaster if it's ok first

I will figure it out for you brother. Aluminium is split into categories some types are perfect for precise engineering depends what required aluminum is being used for. Try doing different types of aluminum and look at the different results heavy alloyed aluminum don't sink in the middle

Mill all of the surfaces at an angle so the ingot will fall out . Mill all of the welds you make .

If you ever come across a horizontal band saw you could cut the rotor in half shaft and all

You need a straight or round blade. I was impressed with what it did.