Hi Steve, thanks for the note. Hope you're well. Hard to believe how fast time passes. With a little time off for Xmas I thought it may be a good time to get a little video work done. The urge to build models sometimes goes dormant, but never really goes away. Merry Xmas and happy NY to you too. Hope Santa blesses your stash with plastic joy. 😄

Hey Cushion, thanks for the note. Waiting is a theme is this video so your comment is apropos. Figured I'd ease back into makings videos with an unboxing, and get my butt in gear to catch up on some of the builds that are stacking up. 😦Thanks for sounding off and good luck with your own projects!

Are you referring to the Krud Kutter kitchen cleaner? Never tried it but I'm intrigued by your suggestion. Perhaps in a future project I'll give it whirl. Thanks for your post GCWG!

@@stevieRay3211 That's it! Don't leave it on over 30 seconds. It's a paint eater. I also use a REALLY thinned out brown too, mixed with the old make-up my silly wife throws away!🤣

I just love the creative concoctions modelers come up with to get the results we're after. Admitted I'll have to get a make-up wearing wife to try your procedure properly. The Krud Kutter will find a home with my other household products come model supplies like Future which I use whenever I run out of "official" clear coat. Thanks again for the tip, and good luck with your projects!

@@stevieRay3211 Thank you Steve! I currently have 3 going now- the M5, and two 1961 Coral Sea motorized kits. I have already built 1 for my mother in law because her husband served on it. He's passed away now, and another one is for my brother in law in Michigan and the 3rd one is for my wife and I. We really loved Pop....

You may be right; cross brand re-boxings are very common.

No problem Mr. Z. Now go forth and make a block buster game for all of us to play!

There's really no going wrong with the Tamiya brand. The armour kits may not be the most detailed on the market part-wise, but they strike a perfect balance between detail while keeping complexity in check. My biggest beef would be with the pricing on some of their newer boxings, but like everything else these days, prices seem to be going up on everything. Good luck with your projects and thank you for your note!

Thank you for the awesome note Andy! Unfortunately photos, film and models are as close as I can get to these amazing machines so I envy your experience. It's great that you're helping to preserve these machines so future generations can hopefully appreciate our shared history. All the best to you!

@@stevieRay3211 Thanks Steve, thats incredibly generous of you. Musical Box will be at military shows next year, including Bovington Tankfest. I look forward to watching more of your amazing work.

If nothing else mapping in the D3 editor is really fun and interesting. Since the game is 20 years-old, unfortunately, it doesn't have much of a community of mappers or players left. In the old days, you could upload a level or campaign and quite a few people would download and play it. Not so much these days. Still, messing with the D3 editor is a great way to learn level design. It got me a level design job back in 2008. Still, I wonder if the glory days for D3 have slipped into history. Either way, good luck with your endeavors!

You're welcome Wayne and thank you for the nice note. GL with your own projects!

Thanks again GP. It's really all about using the right materials, tried techniques and a lot of practice. I appreciate your encouragement!

Thanks for the note GF, I appreciate the comment. Good luck with your own projects!

Thanks for the note MS. Despite the game being a couple of decades old it's still fun to play and even more fun to mess with the editor. All the best to you!

Glad it worked for you. Best to kick monster butt in glorious full screen!

Thanks for watching and for the awesome note Mr. Able. And good luck on your own projects.

You're welcome Mr. Grotius and thank you for the nice note. GL with your own projects!

After that build I was hoping some armed forces used unicycles but to no avail! Thanks for the laugh Super, I appreciate the note and your sense of humour!

Sorry Roger, it's been too many years since I've messed with the editor so my memory of its functions is pretty foggy. I wasn't aware of the "extra" key/vals so not sure how you'd customize the func-earth quake.

A thought came to me after posting. Is there a camera shake entity that has a time keyval? If so, maybe try that and add an earth quake sound to simulate the func_earthquake.

@@stevieRay3211 Well I took a look at the cin_shake and cin_shake_cam entities but wasn't able to make use of them. However, taking another look at the speaker, there is an s_shakes key that will cause the screen to shake for the duration of the sound. Which is perfect for my wants.

Glad it worked out for you. Perseverance and creative work arounds are sometimes the only way to tackle the problems we encounter. Best of luck in the mapping adventures.

iddevnet.dhewm3.org/doom3/code.html I think the best way to learn D3 mapping is to unzip the game files as described in my videos and load the original maps into the editor to see how id pulls off the various gags.

@@stevieRay3211 Unfortunately DOOMEdit seems to be broken for me. Once opened, only the toolbar at the top and blank white windows are visible. I can interact with it, but it's impossible to actually use in this state.

The kit is easy to find and very inexpensive, making it a fast weekend build. If you want something in an America flavour, Tamiya's Walker Bulldog is another cheap and rudimentary kit. Neither will likely win any contests, but they're both fun and inexpensive to build.

Hey Silvestersze, thanks for the note. The undercoat color is sort of a raw steel colour which is very close to black. The lights and the video sometimes distort the actual colour. I add a bit of red and brown to give it that light rust patina look. Look at these raw steel slabs, www.pinterest.ca/pin/137359857361138693/. You can even see some blue in there. I don't dilute the overcoat to show the metal colour underneath. Rather, I spray lightly with an airbrush so as not to cover the undercoat completely.

@@stevieRay3211 Thanks so much for your replies. Gotcha! I’ll definitely do that. I really appreciate that. I’m now building the exact same model as in the video. Trying to get a hands on with this experience. LOL 😝

@@stevieRay3211 I do have one more concerning question about the steel slab. I went to the link you’ve provided (thx btw), I think the steel slabs (or any kind of metal) should have different degrees of metallic silver-ish shininess, shouldn’t they? Should I add some silver paint into the over coat (black-red-brown)? Please advise. And thank you again. 😄😄

Bare metal that's exposed to the air and elements looses it's shine almost right away. Also you likely don't want too much bright shiny metal on your tank. You can highlight, here and there, with a pencil but don't overdo it. See the M5 video, it shows the pencil treatment. Good luck.

@@stevieRay3211 Ahh… got it. Oxidation. Sure, I’ll look for that M5 video you’ve suggested. Have a nice day!

Hi Larry - thanks for the note. The Takom Stugs are nice kits and you should have no problems with your build. Hopefully the video helps. All the best to you!

Thanks HL. Admittedly my wood graining could use a little work. I appreciate the note and good luck with your own projects!

Now, now, we may have square Frizbees but we draw the line at wheels. You may reconsider the shows you watch for your cultural insights, like maybe try the far more authoritative The Simpsons. Have fun.

@@stevieRay3211 Between South Park, The Simpsons, and Family Guy, that’s pretty much the Axis Powers of my post High School education! 👨‍🎓 Beavis & Butthead deserve an honorable mention as a solid foundation to build on.

Hey Mr. J, thank you for the nice comment. WW1 resulted in a few funky camouflage schemes which makes the period fun for model painting. GL on your own projects.

Hey CL, thanks for the note. That little fellar is 1/35th scale. Probably not a whole lot larger than the real thing! Meow.

Thank you, my eloquent friend. I have a Huge Scale 1/16 Tamiya 36202 with Rommel, coming before Easter. I plan to do a big triple build of this; 1/16, 1/35 and 1/48, all Tamiya, the latter two for simple diorama “Vignettes”with a desert ME-109e (Tan w green spots). The last of which was my first model ever in the mid 70’s which is still in the family collection!

Hey GF, thanks for the note. Now I just have to finish the damn thing!!! Kind of lost my mojo but I'm hoping to get it back soon. Good luck with your own projects and thanks again!

Thanks for the note Simon. Once you get the PE grills on, the detail beneath is pretty hard to see so you should be okay. I'm a pre-paint fanatic so I'm probably too fastidious when it come to these type of matters. Truth be known, I've forgotten to paint a few "raspberries" in my time so we're brothers in suffering. Good luck on your project nonetheless.

@@stevieRay3211 When can we expect Part 2 of the build? Also, any tips of assembling these tracks in terms of gluing and being able to bend them?

Hey Simon, been taking a break from model building but I hope to get back to finishing part two of this series soon. In the meantime, a brief explanation of assembling plastic linked tracks is covered in my Stug episode, about 11 minutes in. Here is the link kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZzdaICgqr93q80. The stug kit has length and link tracks but the procedure is the same for all separate links. If you managed to assemble all those pesky guide horns in the Jagdpather kit, my eternal respect for your perseverance!

Sorry, couldn't answer sooner. Yes, flat brushes. Not sure what size since the writing has worn off. It's about 8mm wide, synthetic, nothing fancy.

@@stevieRay3211 Oh, not a problem at all! Just couldn’t thank you enough for all these great advices… 🥳🥳

I've never encountered that problem before. If it's a small spot you can gently scrape and/or sand the area until smooth then re-paint the bare spot. You can also remove the paint using a lacquer thinner on a cotton bud. If it's all over the model, not sure what to do. I don't want to give you bad advice that could ruin the model. I have stripped the paint off an entire model before and repainted, but that's pretty epic. Sometime we just have to live with a few dust spots and vow to do better on our next project!

@@stevieRay3211 Thank you, Tomas. This’s a great piece of advice for the solution. Pretty much same way of what I think you’ve mentioned in scraping and/or sanding. But I’m not confident enough to use lacquer thinner removing the paint with a cotton bud then re-paint ‘the spot’ again method yet. Maybe I’ll try that in the future. Yes, I agree that sometimes we’ve to live with things in imperfect condition(s), nothing is perfect in the world. But learning from mistakes can improve modeling skills. 🍾🥂

Hey Silvestersze, airbrush pressure varies from 20+psi if I'm spraying a large area, like applying a base coat, to 12psi or less if I'm detail painting when the brush is very close to the surface. There are so many factors that it's best to find the pressure that works best for your circumstances. For the base or "primer" coat you can use anything. I like enamel since its durable but the greenies are taking away our enamel paints so using an acrylic or hybrid acrylic (Tamiya) works fine. Tamiya's grey primer that comes in the spray can is excellent but expensive. But many manufacturers make "primers" so select one that works best for you.

@@stevieRay3211 Thank you, Tomas. You’re my good teacher. I got it and will start at this settings here as a reference starting point. Yes, it’s not easy to acquire enamel paints in the US like it was used be in the 70’s. Back in the days, there were no acrylic, but enamel paint and lacquer spray paint only I remember. Sometimes I ordered those from Japan on eBay, but took a long time to receive. I use Tamiya Fine Primer and Oxide Red. Yes, they’re so expensive. I just use them conservatively.

Thanks Silvestersze. Hope everyone in Seattle is doing well.

The little bar clamps are 7 inchers. Yes, I reside in Canada - long winters, perfect excuse for hunkering inside and building models.

@@stevieRay3211 I hear you. haha

@@stevieRay3211 I’m in Seattle.

Hey Silvesterze - thanks for the note. I use the dual-sided ones, with 240 grit on one side and 120 on the other. That's a good general purpose sander. You may want to get additional finer ones if you really want a glass-like finish. There are other - how shall we say - better brands out there but if you're into saving a few bucks and don't mind a little extra work, then Trumpeter is okay. Hopefully you have some hobby mud around as the tracks have really bad push marks. Anyway, it's all covered in the videos. Good luck with the project!

@@stevieRay3211 Ahh… I see. I’m gonna get 240 to start out with. I’m currently just using a Tamiya file from one of the three-piece package/pouch. Thank you for the heads up! This’s really helpful. 😄