Mine popped out

Great video this helped a lot and was very straightforward Thank you for posting 👍

Great work!!! FAIRIES WEAR BOOTS!!!!! 🤘🏻

Get a Fulltone Clyde Deluxe or an MXR CAE or a Teese RMC - I heard about this-happening = numerous times on this particular Wah-pedal.

Hell yeah dude!

I bought a 322 at estate sale and guy broke all back case mount holes. I used longer screws and it works. Had to put enough pressure for power switch to make contact. 5 years later the battery cover broke because it got brittle. Such garbage from fluke

Hello. What small smd zener diodes are mounted on the board? I had one blown off by a hot air station and I don't know the label.

How hot is your iron for this type of work?

Thanks a ton.

Hi, I don’t have a way to test my sensors but I’m having an issue with my dryer stopping usually after 1-2 min of starting it for the first time. I then open and close the door and start it again and it runs the complete time for the cycle. Could it be my sensors?

My issue was the female tab that your pin fits into. Basically, it was the same fix though!

Just followed your steps here on my chorus and it works perfectly! thank you very much for the video. Btw ive located the cap thats labled C3 like in your video on my board thank you!

Not sure I would use sandpaper. It seems that could remove too much metal. I'm trying Scotchbrite (blue) since it's just a film that I am trying to remove. I'll let you know if that worked.

Find some very low temperature solder and flood the area with that before attempting removal - much easier

Cool. I just replaced bulged cap in similar device. But on first mic preamp. Didn't do the trick. Thanks for a hint. :)

Hi .could you tell me please what fuse for the cpu shall i have ?? Yesterday when i turn the unit i heard a click and it did not turn on . So i have another unit and take its fuse and put it in the damage unit and it worhs again.the problem i cant see any thing written on that fuse .which one please should i buy .many thank's from Germany

Why can't I just buy an old school dryer that that does not have any sensors, that does not have any complicated digital screens, that doesn't have any wifi, that has 2 buttons, that does simply dry my clothes and last me 40 years?

Great demonstration, troubleshooting, and resolution. Thank you for sharing.

Ingenious! Question: Would it have been possible to replace the corroded wiper disk in the 4 pin pot with one scavenged from a good 3 pin pot?

In your opinion, my dryer starts 40 minutes, get to 38 minutes then drops to 1 minute then does it tune and cuts off. Do you think it could be the moisture sensor bars

Mine has a failure too 😢😢😢

Bravo. You are very good.

great work... i suspect that since there is some resistive material between the wire and the contact slider at closest approach u will never be able to 'zero' the pot. to get around that you would have to have the wire closer to the slider as it passes ... perhaps extend the silver to come just near the contacts closest approach? as u manage to do that the lowest resistance at mid point should drop. some very fine work there, lol.

man ive got a digitech gnx4 that ive made patches on i simply cant lose!! youve given me hope! im stuck at a bad dpst switch... i think

👍👍👍👍

exellent!

How come you didn't show the meter when it was "good" ? What numbers were the meter supposed to show?

very helpful! Thank you!

Why baking soda on the super glue?

🌹

obviously the button in the back is for flat frequency speakers or DI

Thank you. Great explanation.

How to factory reset without connecting it to the PC, some button combination

I think you unplugged the wrong plug. That's a 110V plug you just unplugged; the dryer is 220V - You're gonna get zapped 😁 - I used some steel wool to clean and that did the trick.

Would love to see more of it. Especially maybe for tweaking distortion and gain 😊

Merci je viens d'arranger mon GE , sa m'évite d'acheter tout un gros morceau de $275

Wow I might have done something really stupid if I didn't find this. Old radio has bakolite and phenolic switches very similar and came apart almost the same way. THX mister! note to self-always check the internet!

kzbin.infoUgkxcMwtJxUmIcwCMYI67m8BXKzGI4PqlpsX?si=1SnHvWX9tWgFGCk6

Any way to fake it with a stereo pot?

There is a pot that may be suitable at www dot farnell dot com/datasheets/2259383.pdf <---------(replace "dot with a period Err-full stop"" Model PTT 111 "Resistance code 103" If memory serves me

I have two Deltalab units awaiting love (with sheared or "out of socket" shafts on the tapped pots), looking forward to part 2..

It may be a "loudness compensation" pot. They allowed a bass boost/cut tied to volume control position. Those were common and may be scavenged from an old hifi.

Thanks my microwave is doing this!

Assuming the carbon track is still fine, using conductive paint/epoxy to restore the contact between the rivet/pin & the carbon trace usually works for me. Obviously you need to dismantle the pot to do it

Open it, clean it properly, and try again. Okay!?

Not sure what the specs are but based upon what you mumbled Digikey looks like they have several different types of 10K, center detent, 4 pin pots. May have to use another type of knob or 3d print your own. But good possibility you can use them. After you clean the pots to be sure they are not just dirty.

dunno who you are as i am not subscribed but i just looked on ebay and amazon and i found 1k center tapped pots, i would have to look at the circuit to know for sure but what about running 2 7.5k resistors in series to create a virtual center tap with a regular 10k 3 wire pot?

If these units are worth money, you could custom order pots, otherwise maybe 3d printing?

Have you tried cleaning the pots?

The fourth pin is to ground to make sure that center is "Off" - no modulation or feedback.