good job! innovation!

These ergomeds are amazing seats. Been looking at putting a set in my 14 Tiguan R. I found that the Audi S3/4/5 sQ3/5 TT-RS and R8 seats as well as the newer sQ5 seats are all a direct bolt up so I’m trying to decide if that’s the better way to go since they’re definitely cheaper and still heated/full electric haha I guess they’re technically Recaro but having the added ventilated option along with the true Recaro design and styling would be awesome. Looks great though man and I bet they’re incredible seats

Great demo. Have used 'roof and gutter' on the rear trailing blades on the Aussie Ford falcon sedan like many others have done. Longer the better on curing time. Made me smile when you showed the smoothing job, exactly like mine. Many thanks for this demo video.

Brilliant work. Really good video and music too.

Is it still holding on?

I love my recaros too, excellent !

Thank you again for sharing this. My damage is from a crash more than rust. My toolbox door is smashed and the remaing side to the back corner is gone. So I need to fabricate some of it as you are doing. It's extremely helpful to see your process. Fortunately there is more repair panels for the doka. But the pillar section is not available so I will be doing similar fabrication there. Liked and subscribed to your channel. I am in the pacific northwest of the US near Seattle.

Thanks for sharing ! I have crash damage here on my doka I'm starting to repair. It's very helpful to see your work !

hello great video can you tell me which engine did you put precisely because I have to change mine too?

Hi, nice video. Very informative. Could you tell me what welder, wire speed and settings you are using?

thank you brother

That's exactly what I'm gonna do

Hey mate! Thanks for the video. I just bought VW T3 with high roof and starting with campervan conversion but first things first I need to fix the rust issue. I already did some patches on the rear bumper and side moulding which was easy as it was straight or slightly bended but now I got to the same stage as you described in the video. It is so helpful to watch someone who knows what he is doing and sharing a perfect tutorial on how to do it. I felt kind of lost and helpless but after this video, I am sure I will be able to do it. I will surely spend more time doing it than you but because of your video, I feel confident enough to do it. Thanks, mate

This isn't the best product. The only long lasting quality method is to use 2 part polyurethane casting resin.

How can I find your main channel?

Cool vw

Mulțumim!

*Sebastian: Thank you for your clear, concise, single-objective presentation. If you're curious, as was I about specified cured hardness, Henkel Teroson PU 8597 Scheibenkleber: Per DIN 53505 method, hardness is Shore 70A after curing for 7 days at 22C, 50%RH. Cure time curve is temperature and humidity. Hot and humid is the process accelerant, cold and dry cures slower. Assuming Hungarian is your native language, kudos to you also for your superb command of English. Egészségére!*

ohh yea get that big black caulk in there, noice 😉

Kool EZ FIX

Awesome work man

For 15yers now,to all cars that i hade,i bought new engine and transmission mounts,and to yha model that it eas possible,ive fill them with black silicone,since they was new. It dose make the car seem tighter. Yo only one car one Dacia Logan,witch i filed all the rubber mounts,i hade a vibration over 3000rpm. But on the Mercedes CLK 320 Petrol,on witch i did only the transmission mount,was perfect.

Good morning. I have a 2006 Honda Pilot and I have a strange vibration setting in at higher highway speeds. Around 75-80 mph (120-130 kph) and settling out higher. It is intermittent. Someone told me to try new motor mounts. Since the problem is intermittent and seems to be related to load on acceleration as well as at constant speed. Problem is, I think that spending upwards of $500 plus on motor and transmission mounts is a waste. I have heard that aftermarket mounts aren't very good, so I am going to try this. Thank you in advance for the video. Will this restore teh movement to original or make it stiffer. This looks like the 3M poly sealant avilable int he US, but I don't know. There seems to be some give in the mount. Is that true? if so, that might be the thing to do. Thanks again.

Tooo rigid

Hey mate- that’s absolutely creative! BUT, I believe that the manufacture made it in a certain way where it moves and has some flexibility. Just imagine when filling it all with that thing, it will barely move and the vibration will move to other components of the vehicle which on the other side will cause a metal to metal tough contact such as the interior axles which then will shorten the life span of them! I believe that we need that flexibility which transfers vibrations gradually! That’s my point of view sir Good luck!

Excelente 👌

Nice! I'm considering to try this out, at least as a temporary solution, before ordering an engine mount from overseas.

If it is cracked, can the top layer be patched?

Fantastic work 👏

Wow quick fix and inexpensive repair it’s better than a rattle or broken mount 👍 great job 👏

Hola disculpa cuánto tiempo tiene que dejar secar el silicón? Saludos desde México ❤

Ye to bahot bada g lagta hai

MUY BUENO el antes y el despues..!

This is the engine marked with the code AAZ right ?

Just found this, thanks a lot. Is this 1.9D 47KW?

More progress removing rusty bits and plenty more to do! Smart work Shaun, she’s going to be solid and hen it’s completely sorted out ✅

Amazing handmade so professional!!!!

Thank you for this video, i did the same for motor mount of my car long time back, whenever there is a gap in any bushing you can do the same for strenthing and will last long period.

The toughest and most durable type of caulking rubber I've ever used is 3M 5200. It's rated to use under the waterline in marine applications. You can get it at marine stores or sometimes home depot, etc. It would probably be close to the original rubber used in the mount.

That's all have nice day

Skills

hello im your new subscriber, take a look of this 21810-1R000 ( my engine mount parts number ) can i use the same thing you did on your mount? i wanna save my money thank you for your response

I realize this is an older video, but It just showed up in my recommended list. Glad I got to watch you do such repairs. I like how you make them via shrinker/spreaders and roller tools. I also like how after you weld in the new panels you blend them into the existing ones to make a seamless look. I also like your robot shirt after the "instructable" website. That tells me everything about your ideas and interests... Thumbs up!

It's been almost 3yrs. How is the sealant now?

I did this and I wasted my time, energy, Efford, full of pain, and at the end finished replacing all again. Please, don't do this stupid thing.

Not when I break them

$175 for a motor mount if that works I'm gonna try it thanks brother So what did you use a poxy plastic filler

thanks

is this just normal sealant?

At 2:07 Ollari makes his decisions to weld or replace. For lesser than 380 E you get a brandnew one. (2023 price level) Consider the following when making your choice. 1. Time and effort. (hours!) 2. Distortion during welding, and welding-strength of this safety-vital part (!!!!!). Cracks can develop at the edge of highly loaded welds. And if a part is loaded, this wheel arm is. Can you assure your strenght? Do you have full penetration depth of the weld everywhere? Your are not a professional welder. 3. Other unsees corrosion inside the old trailing arm. Seen the fact that a new arm can be inside fully protected with anti corrosion oil the welding of the old one is not the right decision. If the new arm is fully protected inside it will last forever. Nevertheless your skills are high.