you forget to reinstall the horn, may be?

Excelent video on what can go wrong and what needs to be fixed.

OK I watched your video I have a 1996 nk pajero 3.5L v6 dohc petrol 4 the last 18 years it has a factory oil cooler in it transmission has not been touched besides filter an pan flush and never had a problem. Now I have a prado 150 3L turbo diesel and I put a kaon transmission cool in it and have been concerned about running to cool . Anthony fourby4diesel KZbin hates them said could damage your transmission running to cool so now I'm big time confused but after saying that cooler is still on prado and have a great day.

I had my whole auto replaced because the clutch that does 3rd, 5th and reverse had shat itself, does that sound right guys.

Hi, I’ve seen very interesting information about transmission and I wanted to ask you on the brand of the transmission fluid. I have A 2022 Honda civic cvt transmission I do the service about every 22k. I always was told the best fluid is original oem from Honda but from what i looked into is that amsoil valvoline and Castrol give good results better than oem fluid Which would you pick to put in a cvt? I would appreciate it.

You made it look easy.well done

Link?

Can you please advise.. The new valve has longer landings has the corresponding bore where the new style valve goes into have the longer landings ?

Hey mate my subaru liberty 2011 lights come on The mechanic said it was the transmission its done 215k i bought it on around 60km so its Done about 155k on the oil So should I change the oil or just Leave it might do More damage like your feedback, please.

Hi that was one of best informative easy to follow video I have seen thanks

Do you guys know what changed between models that caused the issues?

It might not be possible for audi a6 Quattro. Since Quattro is 4 wheel drive. Is that correct ? So,, you'd have to take a look. But it might be possible.

I have been 6 weeks w/o my 2021 Ford Ranger bcuz of the transmission.

Does this work on the ford everests aswell?

I have a US mustang with the 6r80, would these or the heavy duty be a good fit for these transmissions?

Do you sell ship those torque converters to the US?

Hélio Somos do Brasil gostamos do vídeo da explicação da válvula da transmissão 6L50 att ANTERO MATIC

👍

Thanks Greg, is the installation the same or similar for the Navara? In that your cooler kit in an add on to the original auto cooler.

Can you fill up the coolers before conectig them to the gearbox?

What's the price of all those parts?

bit of a long shot asking on here but have you seen any bt50s or ford rangers with the 3.2L autos revs bouncing on the tacometer, im unsure if its a transmission issue or engine issue, the oil is black so im about to install one of your service kits

The standard tune will still let the TCC let to a desired rate which also needs to be corrected..

When should the bypass oil coolers be checked

Question I have a 2014, 3.2 Ranger PX1 is the thermal inside the transmission or is accessible externally. Thanks loved your install video.

How much are the vavlve body kits can any diy home mechanic do this install?

How much are those shift solenoids?

Can that oil cooler be used in compact cars because I see smaller version online? And is your oil cooler available in the Philippines or can we get it online from you? Thanks

I think the torque converter plate has sheered off my 2016 ranger, like in the start of the video. It made a bang and shut down. Now the engine starts fine but has a loud metallic clanging in bellhousing, no gears at all.

HA - much quieter than a engine dyno run - HA. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA

Hi, I need a valve body for a Ford ranger

As a mechanic been working for 18 year in the field, it’s one of the best upgrades you can do for any car .

Can the torque converter lock up clutch slip in these if they are working hard in hills towing?

Se le puede colocar a una Toyota prado 150 con caja de 5 velocidades una caja de 6 velocidades?

Hey Rocket, nice in depth video on what the actual problem is as Holden are just doing these so called triple flushes to cover the issue until your out of warranty and they kick you out afterwards. I have a question mine has 111,000km but never experienced the shudder but flairing would this be the issue for that as well?

Great video boys, very informative. Keep up the good work.

How long does this take & how much does it cost? Do you know if its possible to do this with an old manual diesel 6N2 Polo? My city no longer allows diesel (shame on them) so currently not using my beloved car, but if I refit I would want an automatic.

I have a question about my 2WD 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage. I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.

Hi, Been a while since you put this up, but had a question. Do you suggest doing the upgrades for a new car, or wait a”period” of time? Am expecting delivery of a next gen Everest later in the year and will towing 2.5ish ton van an long trips, and wondering if it is worth spending 000s on a new vehicle, or more cost effective to use it for x000 k’s before upgrading? Appreciate your thoughts

great job guys,have that trouble now on my 2019 Z71 they are going to do a band aid fix i think , have been chasing the cause for while now so informative , need help ?

Hi Guy's, I'm looking for advice on the repairs/work needed for our Transmission. The Transmission operates fine when the car is first started (All gears can engage while the RPM drops) and then after 10 to 20 seconds the Gears disengage and the RPM rises again, the vehicle won't move. The Transmission has been overhauled with new Gaskets, Seals, Friction Plates etc. I have air tested the Clutch Packs and Pistons and all works as they should with pressurized air, the Valve Body has been overhauled with new gaskets, seals and the Solenoids have been Ohms tested with the correct specs, I've run power through the Solenoids and all are opening and closing as they should. I have not replaced any of the Solenoids (only cleaned and tested). I need some advice on where to go next or what could possibly be going wrong with the above mentioned symptoms. I've tried to call you's but haven't been able to get through, any advice would be appreciated thank you. James

The first fluid and filter change should be at 15k, then every 30k after that. It is the clutch and steel debris in the oil that acts as a lapping compound wearing the aluminum valve body out. Didn't have that problem much with the old steel valve bodies because steel is harder than the aluminum being used these days.

Where can i buy the upgraded valves from ?

How many dont have a problem?

We're have you guys been. Anyway when are we going to see more of the rebuild of you land cruiser and We're still waiting to see some 4x4 trips

Hi Rod, something I would like to understand is why were are not seeing the same consistent issue across all gearboxes. I definitely acknowledge there is a fundamental issue with the valves as I am part of a number of groups where people are having issues anywhere from 20k up to 100k and beyond. I have a 2017 trailblazer, so just after the pre-facelift when the issue started to rear its head. I wouldnt say its had an easy life. I have towed caravans on the very limit, have done what I would consider somewhat serious 4wding enough to push the car to its limits with lockers as well as a lot of beach driving. I have had the TB tuned, bigger tyres and higher lift basically everything you would expect to considerably put more stress on the transmission. The car has 182k on it and have had a few issues but never a transmission shudder, which I am very surprised. I have done 2 transmission services on it and installed one of your coolers at around 90k. Given the history of the car I thought it would have been a prime candidate for the shudder. I have considered it is maybe shear luck, but I am stumped as to why it hasnt developed the shudder, other than possible inconsistent QA/QC of the valve hardness given the wear you are seeing in other gearboxes. Do you have any thoughts on why this issue is seen in basically soccer mum cars with low kms versus high km hard driven cars?

yes its a ford !

I had 07 ve sv6 about 230.000km and shudder auto I was quoted $5000 to rebuild didn't have the money didn't want but sold it to the wreckers

The over pressure from the worn valve will normally blow out the discs on the pressure switches to the TECHM too.

Holden dealers are carrying out a triple flush before replacing any parts. Most of the time that seems to work.