Instead of distilled water....could I add it to 150ml of IPA and use it instead of the distilled water solution?

can you turn off auto translate of title? in polish i had no idea what you mean but your English thumbnail gifted me a hint so only that pushed me to watch

Would be more useful if you also showed how these wires connect to main board because yet again, not all boards are same. Some have A1,B1,A2,B2 while others have A1,A2,B1,B2 etc.

Hi. Thank you for this video! Is there a way to connect more sensors to one Wemos D1 mini - so that the one ESP would be transmitting more sensors to Home Assistant? I have couple of pots next to each other. Would the configuration of ESP be much more complicated? Thank you

great video ty

This is a great concept; generous of you to share. Gracious to pin the measurement correction as well. Thanks!

Isn't this standard nowadays?

Can you post the link to this video?

Brilliant video thank you I’m going to make one tomorrow

Did you install the LED as the “sacrifice” rather than putting in a level shifter?

Thank you so much!

I dont know why I have problem. My LEDs live own life. Its blinking random colors

How about stepper not responding to m18 m84? Stepper locked and doesnt turn with commands either?? 😢

This fails to compile - INFO ESPHome 2024.8.1 INFO Reading configuration /config/esphome/moisture1.yaml... Failed config captive_portal: [source /config/esphome/moisture1.yaml:34] [web_server] is an invalid option for [captive_portal]. Did you mean [web_server_base_id]? web_server: port: 80 ********** Can anyone help please? @MakersMashup esphome: platformio_options: board_build.f_cpu: 160000000L name: moisture1 friendly_name: Moisture1 esp8266: board: esp01_1m # Enable logging logger: # Enable Home Assistant API api: encryption: key: "NTdE20UuQwY8DtsvpZ9dYuRLIrjUfCc3yYP8+4ahypE=" ota: - platform: esphome password: "d53ec1eeb780f80487e8b31b0e666763" wifi: ssid: !secret wifi_ssid password: !secret wifi_password # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails ap: ssid: "Moisture1 Fallback Hotspot" password: "9UDlxb0Id1si" captive_portal: web_server: port: 80 light: - platform: binary name: "Blue Light" output: light_output id: led_light restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF output: - platform: gpio pin: GPIO2 id: light_output inverted: true sensor: - platform: adc pin: number: AO allow_other_uses: true id: "adcMoisture" accuracy_decimals: 5 unit_of_measurement: '%' filters: - calibrate_linear: - 0.32324 -> 100.0 - 0.69336 -> 0 name: "Plant - Moisture Level" update_interval: 30s - platform: adc pin: A0 id: "adcRaw_Sensor_Data" accuracy_decimals: 5 name: "Plant - Sensor Voltage" update_interval: 30s - platform: wifi_signal name: "Plant - WiFi Signal Sensor" update_interval: 30s

I got it working but the beep is so horribly loud, I think I will have to do what the internet people are saying and put some bluetack or tape on the speaker.

They tried to switch the US to the metric system in the mid-1970's. People just wouldn't go for it, so the idea was abandoned. Now that I'm older, it seems like a much better system.

Saved my bacon buddy, thanks

How much demand is there for plastic t slot? I currently have 2 factories in China making me extrusion dies for recycled HDPE extrusion in 1” and 1.5 x 1.5”. Hopefully I’ll figure out how to make it in 2025. My cost should be $1.25/ foot compared to $4-5/foot of aluminum. I can’t find anyone in the world who sells it

What capacitors did you buy for this fix ?

i like it

Hello, First of all, thank you so much for the amazing series on building a 3D printer. I was initially planning to buy one, but after watching your detailed videos, I’m inspired to build my own. I’ve nearly gathered all the necessary parts, except for the 3D printed components. I have a few questions regarding those: 1. There are multiple files available for certain parts, like the x-idler-left. Is it okay to 3D print any one of them? 2. When ordering the 3D printed parts, I noticed that the infill option is set to a default of 20%. I’m not sure how much infill I should choose-20%, 40%, 50%, 80%, or 100%. Could you please advise on this?

wish that project board had access to both sides for an 8266 / esp32. have you found one that does?

Hi! What software do you use for the cnc?

just order z pro resin (oderless).

Just use a distiller it’s easier and you get 99 percent back

how to know which is + and- or a+a- b+b-

Aaaannnd cancel that Amazon order for a new arc welder....

Are there any options for a larger print heat bed size?

0.9 is very noise im changing back to 1.8

I wish they had electronics in my high school. Seems like inner city schools are lacking the fun stuff.

You could add a small plexi glass on the top of the sensor to have a clear colour indication everytime you look on it. Nice tutorial.

So while I probably won't go as far as using the Alum, the idea of a second wash container is definitely going into my 3D printing routine now. While it may not settle as well as I'd like by letting the IPA naturally rest, I think I may do that and then do a cleaning on the two containers' solutions more often. I saw a video in which a pump was used to carefully pull out the cleaner IPA sitting on the top, so I might see about using a peristaltic pump to cycle the IPA more often. If I find that doesn't work enough, then I may give the Alum a try, depending on the balance of time spend and results. Fantastic video, thanks for sharing!

Thank you your a lifesaver

Thanks for this. I printed a complicated spool rewinder and not only was it complicated but I didn't use PETG and parts kept snapping off(my mistake but frustrating). This is simple and quick.

little hot glue can help hold things in place. its what I do

This is not new tho, if done correctly you can make sturdy objects with internal structure. Similar to yours but for all around.

First of all, great video! Really easy to understand and follow I just want to know, what voltage are those capacitors you're using here?

hi. was considering building the LayerFused X301. is it still worth building it in 2024? would the specs match up with current off-the-shelf products around it's price range - $1000 according to the excel sheet provided - like the Creality K1 Max CoreXY - how is the X301 compared to that? it seems the LayerFused shop site is down - meaning the parts required (from them) are unavailable - making the build difficult. and does the excel sheet consist of everything needed to build the X301? what do you suggest? should i build or buy?

for whatever it's worth, they likely tested in a more aggitated bath of water. From how easily those tore apart if the water were even slightly more aggitated it would have begun to crumble and "turn to dust" on it's own. They were likely testing in conditions that would intentionally accelerate degradation so that you could see years and years of degradation over a few days. That sounds like a long time, but dead trees, fallen branches, etc. also last years and years. Now whether or not this was *_bio_* degradation or not is another story. In landfill conditions I believe that, yes, PLA can biodegrade quite successfully, but I'm not sure about how well it biodegrades otherwise. I'd like to assume that once it gets to fine enough particles then, even if it doesn't naturally biodegrade, things eating and processing it would finish the job, but it's hard to say.

Is there a diagram anywhere on the belts and how they are routed, its a bit hard to follow on the video, thanks for sharing this design

Making a three D printer is. Definitely not a diy job its a precision job. 😊😊🎉🎉

I use non diluted alum with fantastic results, typically after 24 hours I have clean clear non diluted IPA.

how is that 400mm , 400mm is very small pls help

Это писец, пихать USB шнур в устройство.

I was with you until the needle nose pliers came out. Definitely worth paying for the crimp tool if you are doing terminations that matter. And if they don’t really matter, then use the cheap auto style barrel connectors.

Should I still run this exact set up you are showing us? I am currently running LED strips along the ceiling of my office behind some crown molding. I was using the esp-8266 board and it worked great in testing, but I ended up needing to run 4 LED strips to make it around the entire room. Apparently the 8266 is not able to run more than 3 strips. Each strip has 300 LED's, so my total will be just under 1200 as I need to cut off just a couple feet for an exact length. So in my research I am told I need the esp32, which should be able to easily run up to 9 strips. I just want to copy exactly what you are doing here, capacitor and all. Also, any suggestions on an Enclosure if I don't have a 3D printer?

Cool and all but the title is misleading. This doesn't hide the lights it just hides the strip in between the lights. I have stick on strip grow lights under a shelf that's fairly high up so the lights are visible and annoying from any part of the room. I'm trying to figure out a way to shade them so they still shine down but don't show out into the whole room. If anyone has an idea or a link plz share. Thanks

2024 hi there everyone very interested

But the alluminum extrusion is actually cheaper by the kg, almost 40-50% cheaper than the filament cost alone.

Nephew looks married man with no kids to stress him up