@@jondiaz3021 Yes I did. I am on Aux and E40

@@comet30265 Still working on the Part2, thank you for your patience.

Thank you so much that means a lot to me I am planning on having more RS content in the next coming week. I do apologize that it has been a while that I have posted, but that is life. Please subscribe! There is more content coming!!!!

@@btzemat210 Thank you my car has the Borla High-flow Cat and their Borla S-Type! This RS that is being worked on is Nick’s car.

@@antfitts5 Yeah I am local to SA, I am also on Instagram. The local community is SATX EcoBoost.

@@Nick_UCARS sweet sounds good man, joined the SATX ecoboost group. Appreciate it. Hope to run into yall at a meet or possibly a track day sometime soon.

@@antfitts5 I will see you around

@@jessebudelman it’s not too bad to change an ST clutch and Flywheel out, in comparison to the RS because you don’t have to get so much stuff out of the way. As long as you haven’t been launching it at all times your clutch and flywheel shouldn’t be too bad

To take it out and reinstall one after changing the clutch and flywheel on an RS it would take me around 6-8 hours or faster depending on how much the car fights me.

It should have a fill hole up on top like I showed in this video, but if it doesn't you will have to fill it from the side with a pump.

Get another Podium!!!! Let’s gooooooo

@@NickAegerter Lol so much was removed, it would give anyone PTSD

lol yeah once you upgrade to another clutch most upgrade options have a single mass flywheel, which induces a lot more of the engine vibration and it’s translated into the Flywheel/clutch kit. Nick has broken in the clutch and has raced in Global Time Attack and has achieved a podium finish two weeks ago!

Yeah I was looking at replacing rotors in the future as well

I found it easy to just vacuum pull the fluid while refilling the reservoir to make sure I don’t put any bubbles in the system. It makes it a whole lot faster of a process. There’s even a method where you use the ABS system to push the fluid out as well.

I am glad that this trick was an easy way to not make a mess for anyone and everyone to use! Thank you for watching!! Please help me out and subscribe for more!

Yes they are, apparently they're about the same size as the F-150 Brake rotors.

Thank you! After driving on the EBC’s for a couple months my RS has a noticeable increase in braking power to the point that I have been stopping way before I expect it to stop.

I have not seen my brake calipers color wear out just yet because I haven’t been through a lot of hard track days, but I have seen other RS’s have discoloration already since the paint that’s used on the calipers are not related for the amount of heat that the brakes produce. Thank you fro the continued support!

Aaaaall the carnage

There is a full plug above the drain plug on the side of the transmission that you may choose to use, but I find it easier to fill from the fill plug on top of the transmission next to the shifter, where you can pour your fluid into.

Yeah I also used the top plug above the transmission to fill it as well. But my question was how do you know you’re not over filling if you don’t take out the upper fill plug on the side and let it drip out? I kept the upper side plug off and had the fluid drip out so I know I’m at the proper level. I noticed in the video they just drained and filled without checking the level…was just curious if there’s any issues over filling.

@@13nloz16The transmission takes up 1.7Qts to 2Qts of Fluid for it to be full, I am usually going off of the fluid levels left in the bottles as I add the fluid into the transmission

Its worth it for track and street driving!

Go down a Wheel size to 18" Wheels and a wider offset on the wheels. I have a 43+ offset with my Enkei NT03's and I have 255/35/R18 Tires on them and they handle really well with the Michelin Pilot Super Sports, but I am looking to go to a higher grip level tire as these wheels are a racing set of wheel's.

@@Nick_UCARS thanks! Almost ordered the 18's today. Will check the offset.

@@GojirasBreath Just make sure that the offset is at least +35MM or so and that should be more than enough.

It is an 8MM hex key

I had to get it to the point of almost removing the downpipe out of the car, but both of the downpipe nuts would need to be removed in order to be able to move the downpipe away from the turbo. Then you would need to unmount the downpipe from the subframe in order for you to move it out of the way.

@Nick_UCARS did you ever notice having boost issues before replacing the gasket, also what all symptoms you had going on ?

@@bryanluna6042 not really, but you will have a check engine light and a code stating that cylinders on bank 1 lean. If your having a boost leak, you may be leaking pressure else where

@Nick_UCARS the gasket to the downpipe was completely blown out, it literally came out in 2 pieces, i threw a code p0171 and p2195 and my fuel trims where all over the place to the point where my car would bog really bad and shut off, i replaced the gasket and hope it fixed my issue

@@bryanluna6042 has it fixed a bit of that bog down?

The part number for the Rear Axle from O'Reilly's is PRE FD8368 It is a life time Warranty Part

It was around $75k

@@Nick_UCARS nice did you get ford extended warranty thinking about buying one out the door with warranty 90 thanks for the information

@@user-yf3ww5el9u I do believe that it had an extended Warranty on it.

I have no extra pops on my tune. This is just the normal pops you get from being in Track Mode and having a Borla High-flow Cat attached to the Borla S-Type Exhaust. I don't like the extended pops that you can get if you as your tuner, but I did not ask for any extra pops, I don't like the excessive popping. I currently run a Stratified E40 Tune, with a bunch of mods. the mod list is in the description. Thank you for the support!!

⁠​⁠@@Nick_UCARSMine doesn’t do that many. 🤔 I’m running catless and AWE Track edition, full E85 with the Stratified X4tra Aux fuel and Snow Performance WMI. I usually get like 1-3 loud pops, been that way since stock. Weird! But yeah, some dudes add them in for the whole down-rev like 20+ pops and it’s just too much. Your car is pretty dope and I’ve been following the progression for awhile. Love the NB, mine is White and is nice to blend in on the freeway, but too plain for track/shows. Anyhow, love the car man! 💪🏻😎

@@BlackwaterDSM Sometimes having the White car is much more subtle than having the bright blue car, but I love it so much. I am certain that the reason why my car pops a lot is because of the way Borla designed the exhaust to sound. It is more than enough for me, I know that having more than what I have now is super obnoxious. I like the pop/crackles and then its done. Extended pops is a bit much.

@@Nick_UCARSOh yeah, full agreement. I wanted the NB, but couldn’t find a low mileage one (93k was the lowest for 6 months of searching), so I got my FW. And also fully agree that the “extended” pops is just annoying. Kinda wish I had gone with a slightly quieter exhaust as mine has no muffler and no cat, so it’s crazy loud. Might swap to the AWE Touring for daily use and use the Track edition… for the Track. Lol

@@BlackwaterDSM I have a buddy who had the Track Exhaust and ordered the Touring section so make it quieter and it makes a huge difference in the daily driving category. It is much quieter and has comfortable enough on highway cruising speeds.

I have strayed away from the Drilled rotors because of the potential for drilled rotors to crack over time when you are tracking a car. I know that there are a few race cars out there that utilize drilled rotors, but I am just trying to mitigate a risk of cracking if I can help it. In brake rotor selection, would always do my best to use similar rotor specs to what the fronts are going to have. Best case scenario, I would use the same manufacture and model of rotors to keep the rotors and braking power the same. (Even though majority of braking is done in the front). Thank you for the support! I have more videos that I am going to be working on. I have been taking a break.

Having heard the SRT-4 with a straight pipe setup, I agree that the RS with a High-flow cat, resonator, and muffler does sound like a neutered version of the SRT-4. The RS is such a fun car with the amount of versatility that it provides.

Hahaha I have been here and there, I have been working on the RS recently to improve it a little more before the next track session, but I will be missing a few as I am trying to work out the braking problem next.

@@Nick_UCARS what’s the issue with ur brakes? Are you in the Austin area?

@@adrienleroy4755 The brake pedal gets softer and bites less under hard breaking like the conditions that you have seen in this video. Since then it hasn't been braking the same even though I have braided lines and changed the fluid to a higher heat tolerance fluid.

Yeah the Track Edition is definitely extremely loud, but there are a lot of people who like it loud for a while.

This exhaust is definitely for those who wants something that is super loud. I personally have a Borla S-Type with their High-Flow Cat.

You may use DCT fluid as well, but gear oil 75w-90 may also be used. However, as you have stated DCT Fluid is recommended in the Owners manual supplement.

​@@Nick_UCARS Agreed but the Amsoil DCT or Motul DCT fluid shifts a lot better.

@@hersheyroseman4508 agreed, Motul is just something I have always used. AMS Oil has amazing fluids too.

@@Nick_UCARS Yep, both good companies you can beat the Price for Amsoil for the performance.

Ive heard an see that if you want to expend the tran life use 75 90 instead of the dct ive seen pictures of how te trans ends with dct oil so na

I had to reach up there with a ratcheting wrench and crank those couple of bolts off. if it is super tight in there I would use a flex headed ratchet with a deep well socket to get it broken loose.

Heck yeah! Thank you for the support! The Evo was fast on track!

I’m working on Shorts and Reels! They’re coming

If you’re having a boost leak, I would do a smoke check on your vacuum lines and intake. Also check the hard plastic line that goes from the breather plate to the intake manifold, it may have gotten disconnected or not connected properly if you have installed the breather plate.

It's a whole lot of fun! Just take your time to get familiar with the way your car handles, and brake early at first until you understand where you braking points are.

Yes Sir! I can't wait to see your channel back up to its former glory and beyond!

The Focus RS is more than capable to take it on a track like I did, but I caution you to check your oil temps as the track day progresses, as the factory radiator and the thermostat are not enough to keep the car cool for more than 2-3 Hot laps. Other than that, the car as you see in this video and the previous video shows how well the car can perform.

Merry Christmas! I thought why not release this video on Christmas Day as a gift to everyone! Have a Happy Holidays!

I know they aren't the same, but the orientation of the drain plug and fill plugs are.

Yeah it’s not as big as it seems

This was a procedure that is detailed in AllData, that’s why I did it this way. However, pulling the fuel pump fuse is just as effective.

I cannot wait till you come back to the RS, community

Yeah I think the age of the vehicle was starting to show on its parts, especially if you’re hearing it. The R was a joy to drive and is sure to be amazing on track or leisure drive on a nice road.

The NT03’s are 43+ offset and it is on Michelin PSS’s (255/35/r18’s)

The ATAK is a lot louder than the S-Type, especially with a Catless down pipe

I don’t have a Kaiser gauge cluster yet

Yes there is also a full hole from the side of the transmission, but it’s easier to fill from the top.

Thanks. Great video by the way!

@@truthform I appreciate the support