Wow great, I already figured the driving examination is a scam with the pass fail scheme I fully completed a test with 4 minors and got a serious fault that wasn't true my instructor said I shouldn't have failed so as the group chat of the driving instructor they also said it was a total rip off now I’m really disappointed, how can I contact you about your instructor I need help.

You will roll backwards, unless your car has hill assist

@@TP_Gillz thank you for your answer, yes mostly yes, but I think It may depend from the steepness. For example if I'm perfect I manage to start in this way without rolling backwards in hill steep 18 % but in very steep hill for example 30 % I nearly never managed not to roll backward. Another risk is also giving too many revs (for example 3000 rpm). Do you have similar experiences to tell?

@@maxlamartina2578 Ya on any noticeable hill I stop on that isn't extreme, as I am holding still on the break, just before I go, I bring my clutch up just into the bite point, an slowly let off the break and IF I feel any backward momentum as I let off the break I increase the clutch, usually I find the spot where it holds me in place long enough to get on the gas to get moving forward and not roll back or stall. Another method is to blip the gas using heel toe while coming off breaks if you feel like you need too. Its car dependent, my V6 Camaro does not have hill assist at all but has enough low tourqe to hold me still without bogging the engine on a majority of hills. On a more serious incline, I'll just use the handbreak instead of footbreak, but the method basically stays the same. So I, clutch up to start of bite point first, slowly off break, (increase clutch slightly as needed) once im off foot break, right to the gas, raise RPMS and clutch and off u go! The trickest times for me are when I don't realize I am on an incline at all!! And I come off the breaks too quick with clutch still coming up and then start feeling the rollback, long as you don't panic in that very moment, you make a judgement call, either get back on the break (safest, and best method for beginner), get to bite point and do it over basically, or just continue to get to bite point (a little quicker) and blip your gas so you can at least shove the car forward if you need too. It may not look very pretty to the car behind but you wont hit them! And because you blipped the gas to say 2-2.5k and held it, you wont stall even if u go thru the bite point of the clutch a little faster than usual. Just don't panic and dump it! When in doubt, HIT THE BREAK N MAKE UM WAIT!! lol

@@TP_Gillz your methods are very good, thanks for sharing your experience. that method of raising the clutch to an enough bite point (so not to roll back when you release brake) and only after giving gas it's a good method but it doesn't work efficiently in a very steep hill. In a very steep hill a biting point that gives you enough torque not to roll back when you release brake is very very high (maybe 90-95 % of the pedal travel) and if you raise the clutch to 90-95 %, even slowly, not giving gas first, the car is likely to stall. so in a very very steep hill or you use handbrake method or heel and toe method, as you mentioned. If you want to use the method of the biting point in a very very steep hill, so you should raise the clutch to a bite point, but not a bite point that will prevent you from rolling back at all, but only a tiny bit. So foot on the clutch and on the brake, raise the clutch to the 50-60 % bite point (and slowly), when you have raised the clutch to the 50-60 % (a mild biting point), when you release brake the car still rolls back (but not as fast as if you had clutch not at a biting point) so it's important to leave the brake pedal and put it on the gas pedal quickly. I think this, but it's also possible that with your car it's possible to do also very very steep hill with the method of "clutch to a biting point that allows not to roll back (in a very very steep hill I think 90-95 % of the pedal travel) and only after leave the brake and give gas"

Cyclists that work pay for road upkeep in tax. That's covered in council or income tax. They shouldn't have to pay emissions tax like a motorist does. Insurance is a valid point that I can agree with.

Lets say someone runs out just when the light for them is green turned red/yellow, if you started to go forward you have to stop, even if its the cycle box. granted seems unlikely sinec you have to watch for people before you go. but thats at least on unavoidable scenario i can come up with.

Good luck bro