nitric acid to find out if it is silver or not.

Did you check to see if any of the pins were magnetic? If you found some, could you not cupel those pins to get the gold?

Good video 😊 THX

At 20:42 you talked about pulling the pins. My friend i use a scaper and hammer anp put the whole thing in ap. Saves lots of time.

Hi KKR with circuit breakers I use a reverse electrolysis method which needs a high copper content. It takes a bit of time, set and forget, but the most cost effective way Ive found to get the silver with far less acid use. Happy to share my method with you. I dont bother removing the silver contacts off the brass or copper for it. I need the copper content

Real hard to say what the contaminate would be. Dropping with SMB will bring pgm's with it. Could always inquart it with silver and drop with copperas (ferrous sulfate). I've never had a dirty drop using it. It does require some extra preparation but is very effective.

Great 👍 😊eco flow delta pro ultra system and power whole house 90,000(KWH)

Great video , new subscriber here , I’m about to strip down breakers too so I can recover the silver contacts 👍😁

More gold than you thought you had looks like

Not worth buying from eBay after spending to much money is what I figure

Is that all of the gold that came out of what you bought

It might pay to pre-treat the contacts with HCl to remove any tin, then boil in distilled water to remove chlorine, before dissolving the silver in nitric. Cementing the silver on copper produces a slightly less pure silver than the lye and sugar method can produce, but lye and sugar requires a lot more rinsing (of both the silver chloride and final product).

Probably copper or silver contaminated

Redissolve run the filter then drop it again make it cleaner

If you ever run across a old oxygen breather apparatus. I took apart and using it as a vacuum pump works great

awesome video! glad you clarified what you meant by "cooking chips at 39:12. Almost thought this was gonna turn into a video about baking.

Burning this stuff isn't just terrible for the environment it's terrible for your health. Unless your time is worthless to you a good scrap buyer will pay you enough where the time vs money argument will make it more worthwhile to just sell the boards.

Nice

Great video. Very thorough and informative. Looking forward to seeing your next video.

LED'S ive found have a tiny bit of gold. Enough to save them up but they have a nice silver content as well. I processed a bunch of epoxy capacitors this weekend. The silve recovery was so low i just poured it into my stock pot. When i save up a 5 gallon bucket worth i will try again. I have a nice collection of gold band osscilators will process them some day. I stopped pulling crystal osscilators of of the boards because it costs more to recover the silver then what it's worth.

This chips under the heatsink are called flip chips. They contain no precious metals

👍

Makes sense to me how important it is not to waste perfectly fine parts. Thanks for sharing friend and I will be looking into GPU website. ♻️👍

I have kept those brackets and found other uses for them. A bath towel or rubber matt works well to keep stuff from moving around. Awesome information and thanks for sharing friend. New subscriber here. Looking forward to seeing you again sir.

KW or KWh?

Great video thanks

I would go the sulphuric acid route if you’re just doing a couple chips. Keeps the integrity of the internal components in better condition for the exam.

Nice that they returned them, with no shipping charge. Not too many companies do that! Seems like a decent company to deal with.

Nice to know. Will have to try that with some of the chips I have saved up.

Bummer man, but one of three is better than 0 :). Just did my first year of ewaste gold recovery and refining myself and can't comment on what if any gold content lies in chips with aluminum or copper Bond wires. I would assume it's minimal though. Saving them for a rainy day regardless. The research I've done points to silver colored bond wires almost certainly being aluminum and copper colored ones potentially being a copper/pd alloy fwiw. But like I said I just label those and stash them for later, maybe some day.. Good luck my friend.

Yes 💪🏼 First like and comment 😅

You have to keep in mind that the inverter itself consumes power just being turned on, do a test of the consumption over time with nothing plugged in.

Aluminum cases will go as cast aluminum. Aluminum inside the device you may get as aluminum sheet. Don’t let the yard rip you off.

Gap pads are usually silicone based, should be silicone oils. Cans are usually tin plated steel. Some modern IC chips (bga's too) contain aluminum or copper Bond wires FYI :(. It is a sad realization once seen. I usually sample and break a few in half a few different ways under a microscope to make sure. Gl!

is the software / firmware all updated? I remember one update to to address calculating numbers wrong

Modern breakers dont have 90% silver. I have done a lot of research into modern breakers that have been made within the lat 20 to 25 years. Looking at the company's website that make the contacts for the companies that manufacture breakers and show that the silver plating is 50% or less and some companies say that their contacts have less than 20% and the bad thing is they don't say witch companies they make them for. This information pertains to modern breaker's. Old and vintage breaker's can contain up to 90% silver. You also have to watch out for counterfeit breakers there are companies that make counterfeit breakers and there is no way to know the percentage of silver in them i have a couple of counterfeit breakers.

Do not forget: The contact elements are RHodium coated- worth extracting on a certain scale. On European MCBs, the Rh content is a bit higher usually as they operate at higher voltages

Really appreciate this unboxing you did. Helped me figure out my issues setting up mine lol. Thank you.

I use a pointed steel pin and punch out the rivets

Anything magnetic is going to be steel doesn’t matter what it’s coded with. Any other non-magnetic material if you take a file to the surface, you’ll be able to tell if it’s brass, copper or aluminum. Most of your copper connections in there are going to be silver coated copper. Stainless steel is non-magnetic.

I like to pull those contacts off with bull nose pliers. I would inecenerate/ melt those silver contact in a “ dirty melt dish” , cover with borax when they are cherry red . The borax helps pull impurities out ( they will stick to the dish) pour the silver out into a stainless steel container with water in it Then process the shot w/ nitric , drop with copper so easy . BGDC

A quick Google search with AI response shows: Sulfur hexafluoride: Uses sulfur hexafluoride gas to attract free electrons and extinguish the arc. So, yeah…next time mask up…you just might get one like described. 43:30…you’ll learn one day. Lol

I processed a bunch of these myself and originally started with hammer too but those explode and make a mess. I found punching out the rivets worked great.

Drill out the rivets and you wont have the big mess

To get it clean id inquart the bead with sterling. Nitric baths until all the blue is gone. Dissolve in aqua regia and drop it with copperas. Probably got some lead or tin in there considering its e waste. Could be pgm's I think that milky stuff was silver chloride. That could be the contaminate. Nice job and yield tho.

Can you do electrolysis on these next time? Skip the work?

That's a lot of plucking bro? Damn.

I, too, have 2 DPU's with 10 batteries and I think their software needs to be adjusted. Same with the application that shows "Savings" which doesn't show when you're own your own power but will show under TOU settings? Ecoflow seems to have more software development to do.

Ram chips need to be ddr4 or higher. Haven’t tried cpus yet.

When you click on the chart for the "input page", what your seeing on the bottom there is a percentage of how much power came from that source. In other words if it shows 100% solar, that means you used (only) solar to charge that day. It does not mean you hit 100% battery capacity that day.