Just wishing you a Happy Thanksgiving.

These Chinese test leads are no good. Iron wire with a dubious copper coating. Total junk.

Love part 1 and 2 are going to do more parts? I am collecting parts to build and will want more parts for Weather station temp humidity telemeter time way to log data to other computer .

Thank you for posting. I bought one of these a few years ago from eBay. Appears it's working fine, however on the second channel I have no knob and have bought three different ones attempting to "fit in" but one had no reaching "socket" to mate to the knob's second control, and of course the primary control is the thin long nylon shaft. Second knob seems like its socket is too long. Third one someone actually just gave me but it doesn't appear that it has an adequate socket fitting either. These suckers are not cheap and some have the very tiny secure/set machine screw. In general, though, I am glad you and others are posting videos of repairing the 465B for the inevitable day I'll have to fix something wrong with mine.

I switched to corrosion x deoxit is a waste

Thankyou greatly, a perfect video that teaches me how to use my HT208D. Bought mine on AliExpress. Thankyou again.

Great set. Love the coil packs. Nice of Mr. Waters to put that detail in. Recently went round Bletchley Park, fascinating place. They have a HAM radio team there with a bit of a museum to radio transmitting and receiving, lots of old military sets from UK and US. I am currently repairing a Marconi R1155 which is proving quite a challenge. The DF circuit has been partially deleted but the transformer is still there, so hoping to rebuild that and maybe get a couple of meters for it too.

@allthegearnoidea6752 Many thanks for being around, we still miss you so much. We are staying away from KZbin videos, 'coz they lean too much toward PATREON.

my unit 216c finaly bit the dust after 4 plus years, was looking for an equal or better meter at the arround the 50-70$ price any recommendations, i really want a ac /dc inrush, but also like being to read accurately at low amperage which it seems this is not to good at

Very informative video. I have this transformer and was using it to step down my Mr Coffee coffee percolator. Did a fine job for about a year then one day suddenly started tripping the circuit breaker, I reset it and tried to use it again when it made a pop sound and a very small amount of smoke appeared from the reset button. It powers up now but with everything I plug into it that I’d used it for previously, now constantly trips the circuit breaker. I bought a bigger transformer which works fine now but was wondering if the other one is reparable? Wouldn’t attempt it myself but wanted to see if a professional would. Thanks👍

Millifarad would be 1000 microFarad. But the MF (or, more commonly, MFD) did mean microfarad. Of course, we should use milli Farad for 1000uF but for some reason we still use bizarre units like 10,000 uF. Unlike battereis, which we rate in mAh and thousands ,mAh instead of the correct Ah.

3:50 nope, red Mercury exists. You can buy it from factories that sell Mercury. Its £30 a gram. Minimum order 1gram. You really think the biggest Mercury factory in Germany would con customers?

Wouldn't a cascode configuration on top of that FET help reduce that Miller effect? Thank you once more!

Hola.... No sé cómo esperas que una pinza china económica, que mide hasta 1.000 Amp, mida menos de 100mAp...🤦, no es decepcionante, más bien esa pinza está por encima de muchas pinzas de marca, con todo lo que puede medir, ( solo conozco una pinza de alto amperaje que puede medir desde los +/- 40mAp, y es una pinza de potencia de la marca HIOKI )... yo la tengo bajo el modelo HABOTEST HT208D que es la misma que KAIWEST del tu video, y es muy precisa y confiable a pesar de ser china y económica.... incluso la marca Europea PANCONTROL igual la vende como si fuera fabricada por ellos.... también sale con otras marcas, por que es muy versátil. Hasta ahora no tengo quejas de esa pinza. Solo recomiendo instalarle el varistor que en fábrica NO le instalan , si la destapan verán el lugar donde va instalado con el Nombre VR1, yo le coloque el varistor 10D112K que es de 680vac RMS , por que varistores de 750vac no conseguí.... 👍🇻🇪🇨🇱

This is proper useful teaching! Thank you for taking the time!

We had polistirene in the 50s

Warm it up with mr heat gun

Hello Chris, we are back in town! How are things your end? Hope all is well up North(?) 🫡🫡🫡🫡 Me and the missus have been thinking of these pull trigger desoldering stations with heated tips. Frankly they're crap mostly. So, why not purchase one of these cheap "desoldering stations" and remove the heater section. That way, the desoldering machine is the vacuum, while your soldering iron heats the joint. Desoldering machine then removes the molten solder, without buggering up the pcb. Just a thought. Am now going to drink 3 cans of Websters, and ignore the missus! 🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡😄😄😄😄😄 Wayne (from Wayne & Nina).

Good job defeating the hum! That's something that I could not do on a Hallicrafters S-120 that I restored. I made a two part video of it. You've inspired me to restore my slightly older Hallicrafters S-20. 73 Paul A1SU

I see that you already have a Part 3, so you must have kept going. I'll be sure to watch that for tips on restoring my Hallicrafters S-20. 73 Paul AA1SU

I recently picked up the slightly older (and rarer) Hallicrafters S-20. It has no Bandspread, and one less tube. It is not working and has a torn speaker. Your video has taught me a few procedures and tests to perform during before restoration, which I keep putting off. I'm going to check out Part 2 now, and Part 3 tomorrow. 73 Paul AA1SU

Good video thanks you sir ❤Rafique mastoi DG Khan Pakistan 🏝🇵🇰

I received mine today, and removed a knackered 7406 (or whatever MOS called it) from my C64. I'm very happy with it. This is a good, no-nonsense review that I found when trying to find out how to open the solder chamber.

That was a brilliant review. I have subscribed. Do you know of another clamp meter (priced much lower than a Fluke) that you would recommend ahead of this Kaiweets HT208D? Thanks

Brilliant - Extremely interesting, informative and educational. Thank you for taking the time to make and upload such a great video.

hi great video, interseting to see how the psu came out in the end. I have the 2383 with cal probs any chance of a pdf or some sort of copy of the circuit diagrams? pritty please lol

Had one of those many years ago....

I was fascinated with the on light of my brother's collero record player. The Jackdaw effect.

It would be nice if you could show the current values ​​and voltages. In the comments it is repeatedly mentioned that short circuits occur and that the end devices are destroyed.

I believe the specifications are that the anp clamp is good for currants above 5 amps

gd168b kaiweets can you review this meter

Really liked how DC voltage gets through the water. Lots of problems with this at work in food industry with daily wash downs.

You do a great job of pointing out the weakness of non-industrial tools while highlighting your mechanical skills. I don't think anyone is buying a Dremel for such precise use though. Good to see the rumours of your early death are not true Chris. Cheers.

Amazing review. Thank you.

Nice little drill, thanks for the review! The motor looks very replaceable, in case you decided to put something quieter with more torque in there, such as some sort of brushless spindle motor. It looks like the basic 'bones' of the hardware are good enough to warrant some upgrades. Oh, I found those small selfie-cam ring lights to be quite handy for things like this. I added one to my old stereo microscope and it worked wonders. Glad to see you back, thanks for the entertainment! Cheers!!

Proxxon is probably better kit for precision production work. I'm not impressed with Dremel.

What a fab little machine! I have a Dremel on a drill stand, and never gave a thought to the accuracy. It's been fine for my less than pinpoint requirements over the years, but my word, there's a lot of 'slop' - particularly in the stand! Fantastically presented video, and a great review

Hello Chris, good high content video we all expesct fron you. A good pillar drill is on my wish list, but first I need to get my front suspension repaired due to our lovely British roads. Round holes are the best. Peter C

I bought one of those drill presses about 5 years ago; mainly for PCB work, but also very useful in our church pipe organ restoration business. Richard, UK

Hello, Chris. Thank you for another in-depth review! So hard to decide what is good value for money these days, your videos certainly help. My biggest concern would be that plastic motor housing - though there are some amazing plastics out there. Some temperature checks would be interesting. Also, added lighting sounds like a excellent idea. Regards, David

Hi Chris, that looks ideal in conjunction with my Unimat lathe in a small work room like mine. I use those very same carbide drills.

Nice and informative as always Christian. I have been using my standard drill press up to now but that looks to be a better option.

A very good revue Chris.

very interesting little drill press I have an old bench drill thats good for the heavy stuff Ive always used a little como drill hand held with no problems but then Ive been drilling SRBP and veroboard that FR4 is hard stuff

The machining on most drills nowadays is very poor and I am talking about hand drill pistol if you like the cheap bearings and sometimes only one or even no bearings leads to chuck runout so much you can't drill a round hole at all. The whole purchasing and using is hit and miss what quality you get, a bit like the old ford joke of a Friday car 🙂

Great demo on the lateral movement issue with dremels etc. I have an ORYX PCD Pcb drill and the vertical height of the entire assembly is just 8" or so which I think contributes to having bits last a good while before breaking. Sometimes though they will just break (0.8mm) for no apparent reason, and I always thought was likely due to hitting hard spots through the FR4. At work we used to employ somebody to drill PCBs and you'd hear the machine all day long......broken only with random swearing as he broke drill bits. PS. The ORYX runs at 18000rpm.

The spaghetti is far better than most Amazon bought drill bits.

Note - I repeated the steel drilling test with the low speed selected on the drive belt pulley and as you would expect it did much better then shown in this video. Unless drilling soft materials like wood the use of this drilling machine should be restricted to smaller drills maybe 4mm as the maximum. I would not recommend it for 10mm etc. The tool is however perfect for the intended purpose of drilling small holes at high speed. The drilling machine is manufactured to a good standard and is good value for money.

Keep pumping until the die passes all the way through your material. That way it doesn't get stuck in your piece 👍🏼👌🏼