#10MinuteTalk

[@coolstuffinc5412]

bought a .30-06 one time that had a scope mounted on it. guy was selling super cheap and said it wouldn't hold zero, so i looked it over real well. I noticed that the ring mounts were too big for the scope that was mounted so someone had wrapped the tube of the scope with electrical tape to take up the slack. Got a good .30-06 for $150 that day.

[@anon_laughing_man]

🤣🤣🤣

[@jf7393]

Thread locker: Any and every screw/bolt that is under tension has had the "lash" taken out. That's what it means to be tightened. There is nothing special about scope rings that stops screws from backing out due to recoil vibration and heat cycling and it does in fact happen all the time regardless of proper torque procedure. Just to be clear: the screws on your scope rings, iron sights on your pistol, and really anything bolted on to a rifle can and WILL back out at the worst possible time. There is an enormous amount of evidence supporting this fact. Regarding over-torque due to thread locking compound lubricating threads: this is absolutely true and is a well studied phenomenon. So well studied in fact that Loctite and Permatex have torque reduction tables published by teams of mechanical engineers that explain exactly how much to dilute torque specs based on the specs of the fastener and the thread locking compound used. Saying "using thread locker will cause you to over-torque screws" is not even a half truth, it's like 10 percent of the truth. The whole truth is that your torque procedure changes when you use thread locking compound. All of what I'm saying is very easily googled. The more you know.

[@charlessyers331]

Well said and very true.

[@kirlu50]

Exactly! The more you know - the more questions you have.

[@jonboy9734]

People only say that to sell more loctite

[@georgehager4248]

Been using Warne vertical split rings on all my hunting rifles and torque the bottom screws to the bases to about 20-40 in-lbs. the scope can still be rotated, once leveled, the top screws go to 15 in-lbs. thanks for the video!

[@Flashhood1425]

These talks are so helpful and the level of knowledge of the staff are why I took a leap on Vortex (bought a PST 1-6) and I honestly wish I made the jump sooner. Looked through it and I was immediately kicking myself for wasting money on some competitors stuff.

[@rudolphferdinand3634]

I, like you, purchased Vortex 1-6x PST to replace the Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x, boy, I was surprised by the difference in the glass quality. My next move advanced to Vortex PST 3-15x SFP then 3-15x FFP, it wasn't enough Vortex 2-10x FPP (8 total) Vortex optics more than any other optics company to date including Vortex Razor spotter line 65mm. The best bang for my money, Vortex.

[@fedup3582]

I have bought 3 vortek scopes, and I won't be buying any more, no thank you.

[@snakeman48]

I help people with their scope mounting issues. To date, I have seen 2 scope tubes permanently damaged by the previous installation. Both had their rings half's tightened so the rings half's were touching, thus collapsing the tube. One was a $3000.00 S&B, the other was a $1500.00 optic. Both had used quality rings and bases. I have used loctite in the past on ring clamping screws, but not anymore. (222 purple, low strength). This video is Good info for the home gunsmith.

[@joostprins3381]

I still use the purple stuff, but I first do all screws on proper torque, then when all is right (check, double check), I take out one screw at a time and put a drop of 222 on it and one by one put them back with the proper torque.

[@RichardCrust]

Thread locker does not "take up lash". This is not the reason for the inaccurate torque. The reason thread locker can alter your realized vs desired torque is that it acts as a lubricant, causing over torque. The screw will be stretched past its tensile range, causing it to either snap or lose its clamping force. This is why you will noticed "dry" and lubricated torque values in many service manuals for various equipment.

[@peterconnan5631]

I have two comments: firstly, I think with vertically-split rings it is important to firstvtorque the bottom rings, as they need to clamp down both on the scope tube and the bases. Secondly, I like using locking compound because that reduces the risk of corrosion, and also because the ratio between torque and linear tension should be more consistent.

[@tonydevich7937]

I'm actually glad you have specs on those...it makes it easier not to over do it

[@FieroGTXX]

Didnt have 10 mins. Played it at 2x speed. Five min talk. worth even more

[@westsidecamper]

Lots of good info again. The idea that torque specs are wet or dry depends on manufacturer. You can always use threadlocker after torquing with wicking type threadlocker. Definitely agree that torque to clamping force gets insane quick.

[@michaely6665]

I tested with a mini 1/4" torque wrench, marked some base cross bolts as i tightened them and it was only an 1/8 turn to go from 13 -> 18 inlb, there is no way you can be that accurate by hand.

[@davidwarren3433]

The ARC M-Brace Rings are the rings they are talking about that actually torque to 55in lbs. ARC suggest no thread locker on their rings as most other manufacturers do. They are very nice rings. Going to use the ARC M-Brace rings, (30mm), on my new custom hunting rifle when complete.

[@thomascommons1767]

You mentioned maybe you will be lucky and not over torqued the scope rings. I was in early teens got my first scope. I tighten them and I mean tight. Didn't know about leveling the scope , knew one of cross hairs was supposed to be horizontal the other vertical so I eye balled it. Had to loosen rings turn scope, after several repeated attempts I had my scope mounted. Every thing worked got it sighted in . Everything worked but I hated shooting with scope took forever ever to find the target. So took the scope off went back to iron sights. Late teens one of my uncles gave me a 30-06 with a scope and a 8mm Mauser. Only shot 30-06 a few times put it in a closet( still could not find target with scope) the 8mm with iron sights was great. That was 65 years ago.

[@moisecalloway2818]

So I just bought my first bolt action rifle that I mean to use for long range as well as a scope to pair with it. Now I'm generally nerdy with things and do my best to do things right. But the impression I get from all of the videos that I am seeing that relate to long range/precision shooting or just this style shooting in general (talking about bolt actions and things of the like, not AR style platforms etc), is that it is almost too easy to mess things up when setting it all up. Is this the case? Is it really that easy to ruin your whole setup when getting started? I asked this because it is beginning to almost steer me away even though I've already gotten started, and I could totally see it actually steering somebody away completely that wants to get into it.

[@joeyzagari4155]

If a scope says to tighten to 18in-lbs, how much beyond would be considered over tightened? Could it tolerate 20 or 22in-lbs? Would holding zero and tall track click test be obvious symptoms but how much torque beyond manufacturers recommendation will cause symptoms? Is the window for torque as narrow as 2in-lbs for steel rings or could a high end scope tolerate say 5in-lbs more? Is the window wider for aluminium rings, say 5-10in-lbs before causing a problem? Do you tighten to what the scope recommends (I.e. 18in-lbs) or 60in-lbs which is recommended for the rings? The 2 are not aligned well.

[@notfoolediknowthetruth3101]

My vortex pro series rings utterly failed and I'm pi$$ed after time and ammo was lost for nothing except shipping fees to replace an inferior unreliable product at my expense. The female threads completely came out with two of the screws when removed, it was one piece like a coil spring, I could actually unscrew it off the screw. I ve mounted many scopes using different rings, but I've never seen this before. I know the feel and there's no way they were overtightened. The rings also needed to be lapped, they both had high ridges and kitty corner high spots....you can see the shine made by the lapping bar.....had 5% bearing surface at best. Yes it was square to the rail block. Even lapped, the scope canted when shooting. They did not hold after 10 rounds of 308. which is why I realigned it ...but then the screws wouldn't re tighten. I took them out only to see the female threads wrapped around the screw. ...looked like a little $90 "slinky", three revolutions or T5 aluminum garbage. Wtf is that..... ....... As to using the short side of an Allen wrench?....that won't hold anything for long. The reason I bought vortex was because the other, half the price brand, allowed my scope to cant, and the tightening pressure on it was very stiff pressure using the long side. I've attempted the short side before ....no damn way you can get it tight.... Been there done it enough times to know better. I'm 60.....been into this sine I was 16... My experience says different than vortex. PS...I've never had scope damage, the turrets worked just fine. Y know...this is like one fine axe company sent an axe with horizontal handle grain....and they insist its fine. Look it up, it's to be vertical grain. Don't always trust the big boys folks.

[@tomaskey6844]

You all keep saying we can call so today I’m gonna call. Got a Diamondback 3x9x40 and love it on my 10/22 and am trying to decide on my next Vortex scope. I also am going to try out a red dot sight in I think 3MOA. Starting a Ruger .22 Rimfire collection and when I get a long range target, it will be getting a stellar Vortex scope.

[@RockinRack]

Once I finally got a tq wrench and saw what 18" lbs feels like I have been over tightening scopes my whole life... and still do lol. Never had an issue damaging anything or coming lose snugging and adding an extra qtr turn. Although I have helped a few friends with scope issues who did tighten to spec and had wasn't holding zero. Said fk that give em an extra crank and everything was good. I would like to see a video of actual testing and see what's actually under and how much over it takes to damage something. Ide say mine are about 30" lbs if I had to guess. I'm an idiot but an idiot that's never had scope issues lol

[@aaronirizarry979]

Same 🤷‍♂️

[@bighairyfeet]

I've been going to 18" pounds on a 30mm scope and rings. Three times at the range now and still getting scope creep. Said fk it, tightened down to 15-30" pounds. Well see what happens.

[@cailoebphillips9444]

Bro same

[@mikemelina7395]

Here's a tip; torque your rings to the scope manufacturer's specifications, not the ring manufacturer's specs. The rings may say 20-25 inch pounds, but the scope may only be able to take 15-18 inch pounds, a good way to destroy a scope.

[@baddogwaterfowl7302]

I was taught the old school way and have done it that way the past 30 years. So I’ve been over torquing the crap out of my rings. While I haven’t had any issues ( set it and forget it). Up until recently I’ve only used SFP optics. Usually a duplex reticle and capped turrets. I never mounted the optics where the rings were on the bell or compromising the turrets. I have recently made the switch to a few FFP scopes with exposed turrets. I now have a ftlbs torque wrench and follow the specs to prevent damage.

[@kirlu50]

A brand new Leica scope just arrived for me. At considerable cost (for me). I would have no problems trying my luck mounting rings on a cheap scope, but not on my beautiful new Leica. So of cause I sent it to a gunsmith.

[@ryanwilliams1410]

Will dried loc tite affect torque? I have screws that already have dried loc tite and im reinstalling it soon with a toraue wrench

[@davidalbert9387]

What camera was used to record this? The video quality is extremely good!

[@barrettanderson2781]

The Pro Rings are great for the money. I use them on ARs and hunting rifles.

[@PianoMan347]

Blue loctite can also ruin aluminum threads. I’ve seen it several times before. (After several applications on the same threads.) More info, see Brownell’s Smythbusters “Should I use loctite on my AR15” KZbin video.

[@johngaltman]

If you have over torqued a Vortex optic, what should I do? I torqued it to 35 in/lbs, when it should be 15 in/lbs. They are Vortex rings also and the gun I have should be getting sub MOA groups, but instead is getting 1.5 or more MOA.

[@toddboone333]

Don’t tell them you over torqued them. Just send it back for warranty. They’ll fix it or send you a new one.

[@ronws2007]

This video is so important. Let the longest and most tedious part of your set-up be the scope setting. And I am here to testify, step away from the loctite and other thread-locking compounds. Jim is so right. The liquid of the compound is taking up space in the lash and you are not getting the proper mate of surfaces. You may measure torque but it will not be accurate. So, from my own harsh experience. Deciding to change scopes. Well, with enough loctite and you can remove surface material, break stuff. And then, when you decide to tighten on the new installation, you are not getting accurate torque or even required tightness. I did that, putting a Diamondback Tactical I had from a previous rifle on a new rifle. I thought I had it tight. The old loctite in the threads faked me out. The scope had movement. Basically, I have trashed a set of 30 mm rings and a set of 1 inch rings for the Crossfire II that I have. So, I owned up to my mistake and got new sets of rings. And stepped away from the loctite. By using just the listed torque for securing scopes, you will not only get performance closer to spec'd numbers but if you need to change mounts or scopes, the old mounts are still usable. You want the actual threads holding tension against each other. And it is okay to take a torque wrench with you just to check tightness. Most times, before a hunt, you check zero, anyway. There is an outfitter about 50 miles from me who sets you up on his ranch with cabins for a three day hunt. You arrive Friday around noon and immediately go to his range and check your zero and fire some fouling shots. Because your rifle was usually zero after a number of shots. That is, your effective zero was achieved with a "dirty" barrel. Quit using thread-locking compounds and just go by the torque specs. I have the Vortex torque tool and it it intuitive and easy to use.

[@VortexNation]

You are certainly correct. It's a crucial process right from the beginning.

[@russhayes4882]

Now that is some great content ! Very informative

[@ralphgalbraith4142]

What is a good distance between the bottom of your scope and the top of your barrel I see people don't cover that

[@tonyturner487]

I call bullshit- TO A DEGREE- with not needing a thread locking compound…. Whilst you are absolutely correct regarding the cap-gap keeping a “spring-like” tension on the fasteners, vibration from recoil will absolutely loosen them. I have seen this personally, not only on my rifles but in the industry that I work. Again, you’re also correct that you can over tighten your fasteners with a thread locker compound but that’s why fasteners have both a dry-torque value and a lubricated-torque value. With all this being said, the best “thread locker” I have found is plain clear pvc cement. Use a toothpick and dab a small amount on the fasteners and tighten evenly to the bare minimum torque value then allow 24 hours to set up. Never come loose again. Additionally, lapping your rings will help get proper surface area purchase onto the scope tube to keep from getting deflection or a bad hold on your scope.

[@Jeffindsm]

Not so sure 15”lbs can stretch threads to hold in place. Just head holding ability Maybe find lock washer instead Since heat can cause red loctite to release, purple being recommended won’t or shouldn’t hold at all. More like filling the thread gap to keep it from vibrating Then the receiver heating the screws could cause them to loosen possibly Not to mention reusing screws which could possibly be weakened after one tightening if loosened. They are such tiny screws. What type of metal and are they heat treated?

[@roberttheriot7612]

can you make a couple suggestions why my vertical turret isn't working. i have a 3x9x40 BSA sweet 17 scope but i am using it an an high powered pellet gun. shoots about a 1000 fps. no matter which way i turn the turret is does not move.

[@jacquesjuge8130]

Off topic, but what cheek riser is that??

[@bubber4444]

Thank you.

[@JohnG975]

Why not have torque specs for using loctite? I had a scope come lose 1 year after mounting, torque to specs and no loctite. I just can’t trust a scope without it anymore.

[@DinoNucci]

Because you can't spec different amounts of it

[@tannercook4322]

Why don’t you just make sure it’s still tight once in a while

[@RockinRack]

Just over tighten it.

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

American Defense Manufacturing recommends Vibra Tite VC-3 brand only of thread lock on their rings. Most others all Do Not recommend any kind of thread lock because it changes the torque values because it acts like a lubricant. Using it increases the torque aprox 30-50 percent, So don't do it. Just check your rings with your torque screwdriver once a month. I just buy ADM Mounts instead.😋

[@alanmurphy6389]

vortex diamondback tactical 30 mm tube.... using LaRue vertical split rings which say 30" pounds top and bottom. Do we use the scope makers specs. or the ring manufacturers specs?

[@VortexNation]

You'll always want to go with the optic manufacturer's recommended torque spec for the ring screws and the ring/mount manufacturer's recommended torque for the base screws.

[@johngreen2039]

I just plain ole dig the SPAM on the shelf,... rings,... torque,... reticle,.. all fine and dandy,.. but SPAM.

[@WarDaddy66]

I used to torque my rings by feel and never had an issue but I have moved on and now I use a torque wrench from harbor freight

[@tonydevich7937]

You folks should do a range pod

[@Doc.Holiday]

This is great information that is hard to find. I just received a warranty return that was probably my fault. You might also address the recommended torque for a level. The optical level I have does not have a very wide flange so maybe they should be torqued less?

[@joehunt4506]

Should also speak on leveling the scope 👍

[@VortexNation]

You may find this #10MinuteTalk handy: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGm2oouLqt2BrpY

[@mikewest712]

Never level a scope, always plumb it.

[@johnwiley2114]

Love the pro rings for just that, if you can’t remember, the specks there on the rings,, nice,,, and why not use the rings made by the people who made you scope… 😎

[@DVD22783]

who makes the cheek riser on the RAP....looks like vortex but i cant see for sure. Can you send a link?

[@JAKDRZR]

Bradley it looks like

[@Jeffindsm]

15-18”lbs for what thread? Both 32 and 40 ? What about type of screw into type of receiver say steel as opposed to aluminum? How about a precision made weapon compared to a cheaply made one where the mount holes are tighter tolerance to hold higher torque.

[@ourvaluesarewhoweareinadem4093]

Any comments on Conetrol rings?

[@deplorableredneck4.02]

I am glad I own vortex binoculars and scopes..I can't see me buying any other kind..I like a lot..thanks for the info

[@bighairyfeet]

Go with Burris

[@austinblase2186]

Does anyone know where to find that adjustable vortex cheek riser on this rifle?

[@VortexNation]

That is actually one that was custom built for us by Bradley Cheek Rests.

[@bobbylewisfdl1166]

Great info bro, thanks for this episode

[@pkdude5334]

American Rifle Company has the rings and mounts with a 55 in-lb spec

[@sparky_-mf2cs]

I was only able to get my rings about a 1/4 off the zoom knob due to the scope and base.mount position. You think ill be okay?

[@VortexNation]

That should be just fine as long as you are using 15-18 in/lbs with no Loctite.

[@sparky_-mf2cs]

@@VortexNation thanks for the feedback 👍. Of course no loctite and went 17 in/lbs with a vortex torque screwdriver 😎. Thanks again

[@bighairyfeet]

​@Vortex Nation can a tq go out of calibration? I'm going 18" pounds but the screws back out when firing g and had scope creep. Siggestions?

[@briancowan4318]

So, how often do you calibrate your torque drivers?

[@VortexNation]

Hey Brian! Great question. It would depend on the recommendation of the manufacturer of the torque screwdriver. We have found that a lot on the market can come out of calibration after about 50-60 torques, but we've found after 100 torques is a safe bet. To help extend the life of your torque screwdriver, make sure to dial it down to the lowest setting after use every time.

[@Mikey5-O]

+Vortex Nation Podcast Is there a way to find out whether or not your scope is over torqued? Thanks

[@tommyrq180]

Loosen with a torque wrench, note exactly how many revolutions you backed it out, then retorque with wrench set at various torque values until you find the one that breaks exactly where the fastener started. OR, back it out and simply torque to the recommended value, avoiding embarrassment. 😅 PS: I always initially torque a fastener at a value less than recommended, then reset the wrench to spec and click it once.

[@garrettsanford1493]

Well there goes this months rent bc I overtightened and used loctite. Shot over $200 bucks following my groups around

[@bangsnap2651]

So can you permanently damage the scope by over tightening and left there for several days?

[@Kycirion]

You can permanently damage the scope tube by over-tightening for 10 seconds, much less for several days. Aluminum is does not require time for deformation, merely over application of force.

[@thestraitgateway]

I was about to say but what about air rifles, but then you said it. Now i wonder did you use a springer air rifle or pcp

[@Nutinwrkz]

I've been doing it wrong. 😂

[@brainmeier3433]

My rings cam with blue lock tight already in it.

[@BoCKe-pm2xr]

Always great info with you guys. Is it just me or the background is always different? 😆

[@VortexNation]

Thanks! And we like to keep the background fresh :)

[@genefletcher7226]

I have a Ruger American in 450 bushmaster. After 3 scopes and 3 sets of rings I still get the scope moving forward an 1/8 to 3/16 inches I have had it installed at a gunsmith with 17 inch pounds each time even lapped a set of rings. Nothing works. The scope will not stay in place.

[@mikestoetzel696]

What did you use

[@russellkeeling9712]

Duct tape it.

[@RockinRack]

Clean off any oil and try 30" lbs lol

[@bighairyfeet]

I'm having the exact same issue. What type of ammo are you shooting? Today, after having scope creep, I cleaned though rings again and just tightened it back down to 25-30" lbs. It's possible the tq wrench is out of serious calibration

[@dhall5634]

Fighting guns need loctite

[@scotteger6271]

I got one of your torque wrenches and it’s awesome. Recently bought a couple used Diamondback scopes from a friend that was reducing his rifle collection and I noticed one or two of the scopes have some slight ring impressions on the outer tube. Is that enough to cause internal issues or will they be ok? As a result of this video I actually asked him what he torqued them to and he said 20 in/lbs, as that was the lowest his torque wrench went 🤨 So what should I do? They seem to function fine but now I feel like I shouldn’t have bought them from him.

[@RockinRack]

They are fine. I have mounted all my scopes over 20" lbs and never had any sort of issue.

[@ericstites9470]

Glad to come across this podcast, but I'm kinda worried now! Two days ago I purchased one of your Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50 MOA scopes, mounted/leveled/torqued the rings to 17.5 inch-pounds in a set of your Tactical low profile rings, WITH blue Loctite on the threads. Your explanation of the lubricant effect that Loctite has when torquing screws down makes sense, so did I go too far?

[@bighairyfeet]

I have the same scope using a vortex mount. Tq at 15-18" lbs and have had scope creep constantly. Finally, based on others experience, I torqued to 25-30" pounds, no locklogjt. No issues. Let me know how it works out for you.

[@ericstites9470]

@@bighairyfeet I've had mine on the rifle for a couple years now. No issues whatsoever!

[@garybonz]

It is better to have slightly, slightly, under torqued screws that are equally sharing the load than unevenly torqued, possibly over and under torqued screws.

[@jackheath8184]

normally having some liquid loctite on some threads may not make a huge difference. but when you are talking inch pounds everything counts.

[@toddboone333]

I still go 20”lbs when it calls for 18”lbs. never had an issue.

[@2michaelgilbert]

Thanks guys. No loc tite...interesting. I've always heard to use a little...

[@VortexNation]

On the screws that attach your base to the receiver, use it for sure. Otherwise unnecessary and just begging to cause problems.

[@2michaelgilbert]

@@VortexNation thanks guys

[@UnRaT3Dx]

I disagree with them on that. Most pro shooters and the company of arguabley the best scope mounts out there do recommend using a little bit of loctite on the screws, just a little, and as long as you are torquing in the 15-18 pound range you should be perfectly fine for over torquing. But screws do come loose so it is wise to use a a little

[@peterray5935]

@@UnRaT3Dx I disagree, by adding loctite you are adding lubricant and it can allow the screws to be over torqued even when using a good quality torque wrench. Vortex is one of those "experts", I defer to their knowledge.

[@UnRaT3Dx]

Peter Ray no that’s incorrect. Especially when using something about 15 lb, you are not going to over torque when using the absolute smallest amount of loctite. Every single one of my 7,000$ scopes has that done, I would not do it if there was any chance of ruining them. If you are stupid and use to much and a little to much toque yea you can over tighten and cause some binding, other than that no it’s proven that you should use loctite and pro shooters are doing it so I’ll take their advise thanks

[@marko1314]

Yes, but why have you got all those tins of spam on the shelf?

[@tonydevich7937]

It's like a lock washer

[@brenn330]

Pro-tip. Always torque to 45 in/lb and use rock set on all threads. Ain't nothing moving for life. Including them flimsy scope internals. #satire In all seriousness; nearly 100 percent of optic issues I've seen are from customers over torqueing the rings or buying terrible rings for the application.

[@VortexNation]

D**mit Tent! lol Indeed you are correct about the last part though - we see the same phenomena

[@nj-bz8pv]

had my Ar scope torqued to the recommended 20/16 for my vortex ar base and my scope would not hold a zero. all over the board missing paper at 100 after the first few groups being on. i don't know if the guy installing didn't torque it right or its the scope. my first thought was it wasnt tight enough. leopuld ar mount is recommended at65/28. im going to go tighter and see if it fixes it

[@VortexNation]

There’s a much greater chance of making it worse by going tighter than there is of fixing it unfortunately... There is almost definitely something else going on there. It’s best to give us a call during the day some time at 800-426-0048 and hit extension 5 - one of the guys in our tech support team can walk through everything with you to make sure it’s all good to go.

[@nj-bz8pv]

@@VortexNation thank you

[@ChadCooper03]

How did this work out? I've just purchased a Leupold mount and it had thr same 65/28 base/scope ring in lbs specs. Seems much more than Vortexs specs

[@RockinRack]

Bet it fixed it...

[@johnkoenig496]

In the past, never heard of using a torque wrench. Have mounted at least 40 scopes hand tight and have never had a problem, that I know if. What the hell. All the scopes people mounted before about 10 years ago were all wrong ??

[@RockinRack]

Yes and no lol. 18" lbs is like finger snug. Everyone has been way over tightening for years and have probably never had an issue just like me and you lol.

[@fredgoodrum]

What makes high-quality rings high quality?

[@fpsdoug5695]

Good metal, tight tolerance between the rings, good hardware to bolt them together.

[@VortexNation]

What Trenton said. Also excellent machining will maintain good concentricity between the two rings. Methods can be different too. For example, our Precision matched rings are machined first like one big giant fat ring and then at the very end of the process, they get split in two. This means those two rings are perfectly matched to one another and their holes are perfectly aligned. Rather than rings that are mass produced and thrown in any pack of two and not perfectly matched to one another.

[@fredgoodrum]

@@fpsdoug5695 That is a good general guide. Sadly, I am not a metallurgist nor do I own a precision lab; I am merely a customer that wants to become a better rifleman. What is good metal? Should I consider certain types of aluminum? Or, how that rings are forged? I honestly do not know what constitute 'good' metal from 'bad'. Should a good manufacturer of rings list, somewhere in their marketing material the detailed points mentioned? I have cheap chinese rings and some pricey rings from various US companies. I have no experience to tell them apart when looking and handling. Although when working on one set, threads on one bolt completely stripped and now it sits waiting for me to take a trip to Ace hardware. But this trial and error stuff gets costly pretty quick. What should a customer look for beyond reputation in a set of rings?

[@fredgoodrum]

@@VortexNation So how do I compare your rings to LaRue or to Chinese ebay rings. If I were to call each manufacturer I'd spend most of my waking hours researching all components. Sadly, I have a job that requires a lot of hours. I realize reputation seems to be the predominant factor but that still makes the buying decision a matter of faith. I know enough to know that I don't know a thing to the point that I'm not even sure what questions to ask. At this price point, this can be quite costly and I simply cannot afford the mistakes. Sitting on my bench now are a lot of various rings (and accessories) some work without a hitch some require me to learn machining skills; as it stands now, I'm just about out of money. I do appreciate your description of the methods you use. This is the first bit of information that is genuinely helpful.

[@mr.mr.3301]

Wonder why DNZ suggests 35 in lb?

[@joemorris8177]

What about Lapping the rings?

[@sid35gb]

It’s 2023 quality rings will be made correctly because modern machining is good enough.

[@andrewdudenhoffer9512]

I bought a new rifle package with a scope. I took it to a gunsmith for a muzzle brake. When I picked it up the smith told me that the rings had not been tight enough when he removed the scope, so when he reinstalled the scope he tightened them down more than they had been from the factory. I asked him if he used a torque wrench. he said no. I would assume that they came from the factory with the proper torque. I am worried that if he has now torqued them beyond what they came with from the factory without using a torque wrench, that he has ruined my scope. How would I know if I have a problem or not?

[@808fishman8]

what a moron "smith" smh what an amateur

[@bighairyfeet]

Lawsuit

[@komoto1043]

223 Views.... Perfect

[@Sakoboy245]

without lubrication on the fastener you are NOT getting the actual (true) torque shown on your torque wrench.

[@alexyoung4587]

Not necessarily, the faster has been torqued to the "true torque"but, the clamping load will significantly change based on lubrication on the fastener. Many bolts and nuts are to be clamped without lube ie. Lug nuts.

[@Jeffindsm]

It has been shown that lubricant such as permatex thread sealant which states you can torque with it actually doubles the value of torque. They showed it in a video torquing to 100ft lbs actually using lubricant or permatex that it torqued to 200 lift lbs without causing the wrench to click. So yeah.

[@chap23305]

Question: If you have over tightened cantilever mount (lets say 30-40ft-lbs), and then you watch this podcast... realize how fucked you are... remove the scope... can you reuse that mount? Or should you trash it and get new mount that hasn't been over torqued

[@RockinRack]

It's fine

[@JohnDoeEagle1]

23 minutes to say DON'T torque your top ring bolts past 15 - 18 ft/lbs and your base much beyond 28 - 30 ft/lbs. Also you cannot "guess" by feel and if you actually own and use a torque screwdriver you would know that. "Tight" feels different to the touch than what you can discriminate or determine by hand.

[@marko1314]

Yep l think it's a cultural thing - I've noticed that most yanks usually take 3 or 4 times longer to explain something than it would take any other Anglo Saxon

[@JohnDoeEagle1]

@@marko1314 I ain't got all day and get straight to the point. I talk fast and think fast. To listen to people yammer on and stutter drives me crazy. Example B) Just show how to remove and install the f***ing belt without all the horseplay and unnecessary theatrics that not only AREN'T funny but they waste peoples time! kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4jIp4GbrauMjck

[@uclajd]

Good lord, get to the point.

[@davidragland3535]

Slot of saying the same thing over and over and never getting to the point. Better off looking at a different video to get the information that you need. These guy ramble on way too much.

[@youmustvotenato]

I just get it nice and tight, give it a wiggle, and say "that's not going anywhere". Jk This was good. I'll have to get myself a torque wrench

[@russellgavin1820]

American defense

[@marke.8334]

If you all haven't seen a documentary called... it's worse than you think...by revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ

[@jackjmaheriii]

Don’t use blue loctite??? Shiiiiii…

[@VortexNation]

Negative! It can be very bad for scope mounting.

[@ericj5239]

If the gun is useless if the scope isnt "precise" then, you dont belong around a gun.

[@markdriskell2232]

What a joke !!!! wast off time