1980's Johnson Evinrude 40 / 50 HP Carburetors & Fuel System

[@OldMysticFantasist]

Thank you for not only showing & explaining the job, but for sharing your knowledge/experience with various products & procedures you rely on, ones to be carful with or cautious about, & ones you don't worry about or mess with. Need to rebuild a 1958 Johnson 35hp carb that's pouring gas out it's throat. This vid will help a lot! Cheers.

[@thegammas]

Excellent format. I enjoy that you dont over edit the video and that you add your insights along the way. I happen to have been waiting on parts to do this job, and found this video (I've watched many of your others) - Perfect timing!

[@95rman]

Very helpful! I took the vro off of mine also. My local mechanic told me to make sure I have a strong fuel pump. He said if the fuel pump gets weak the top cylinder runs lean due to gravity and obviously causes damage. Looking at rebuilding my fuel pump this year.

[@ryantruong4812]

Amazing video! Helps me out so much

[@jdlives8992]

thanks dude ! coming back for more.

[@NolanBuda-fp3nz]

Do you have the part number for the carb rebuild kit?

[@user-oc2lm9zv6b]

thank you very mach I am Greece very good explein thanks

[@alfajranmotorternate]

Fery Good my brother👍👍❤❤

[@PatrickLabelle]

Did you return your craftsman flathead screwdriver to the store after you were done with your video? 😂 "Kids are loud eh!!!"...Then he starts the engine. LOL Great video as always!

[@BigBoldBob123]

Unless I missed it, he didn't say what he did with the electrical lead he pulled off the VRO manifold. I guess he just abandoned it there.

[@Effective_wake]

Thanks!

[@BrandonsGarage]

Thank you!

[@PunkR0ckz09]

I'm hooked onto your "series" lol ! I wonder, if you had the choice between a 1971-72 (unsure) Johnson 65HP motor + tilt/trim + controls that had its electrical controls rebuilt and its spark plugs replaced, and a tune up done last year OR a 1988 Johnson 50HP motor + tilt/trim + controls that has had difficulty to start this weekend after a few years (the seller is telling me about 4 years) of staying put, what would you choose and why? I am afraid the 1988 may have overheated as he didn't run it in water (or a barrel, or with ears), but I believe the 1988's parts would be cheaper to have than the 1971-72ish one...

[@GormanRepairs]

Hey I have a tough one for ya I have an 89 Evinrude 50hp, and no matter WHAT I've done I can't get it to idle. Fresh carbs rebuilt right, brand new fuel system from tank to carbs, link n sync, full tune up, removed flywheel to check for sheared keyway, got the idle jets tuned as good as they will get the idle as high as possible, and it just Idles too low. If I crank the idle screw all the way up, it will idle in neutral but will instantly die in gear. If I unhook the timer linkage and pull it further while running, it will idle right so something is not right. I also pinched off the primer solenoid line to make sure that wasn't leaking and sending too much gas to carbs. I just don't know where to go from here. Thanks for any insight.

[@gdamtbnms]

I had a question... Could you take one of these carbs and put it on a 25hp to make it a 35hp?? The orfaces seem to match the 25/35hp manifold.

[@jimstaines8093]

Today I learned a thing “even Chisel becomes Screwdriver if Brandon say so”

[@davekennebeck9590]

Do you have the drawing for the carburetor gauge for the 1991 40hp Johnson i have access to a water jet to make one. I know i saw it in a video can't seem to find it

[@Mikebrown-lg7dd]

On the fuel barbs that are screwed into the block are those just free flow or one way valve?

[@MrJag1269]

So I know this might be obvious to some but are you doing this to eliminate the vro oil tank and premix the gas yourself? Is the ratio any different then any other 2 stroke mix?

[@travismurdoch7167]

I have the spot where the fuel pump goes but it's not drilled out for fuel pump. Is it possible there is another location

[@donaldprice4183]

where did you get the float gauge in how do I find one

[@buziossub3633]

I need a manual for this engine... could you help me, the electrical part?????

[@Outdoors-ty8hp]

Do u have to sync these carbs together?

[@MrJag1269]

Bro you gotta throw the affiliate links in the description, I would used them to order my gaskets

[@MrJag1269]

And I wouldn’t have to search for them as well

[@ChrisKing-od1ky]

I have a 1994 johnson 50hp j50tlere. I am putting a tiller handle on it. On the tiller handle there is a round rubber plug with one (black wire) female in it and a second black wire with a round terminal. I think they are for the kill switch? On the motor there is a half circle ruber plug with a black wire and what looks to be a lite brown wire. Do you know were thay go or could you look at your?

[@BrandonsGarage]

On the motor plug, it sounds more like a vro or overheat alarm connection. The tan/brown is part of the temp sender and black is ground. The 2 blacks on the handle is the kill switch.

[@Effective_wake]

I have an 87 50hp. Been really struggling to get a good idle, as it has a tendency to only run on one cylinder at idle. Top carb is lean, will run on both cylinders if I give it a little spray. Did a full rebuild on both carbs, with special attention paid to the idle fuel circuit (small brass tube and little holes in top of venturi). Still no dice. Is it possible that my top carb has worn out throttle valve axles causing an air leak? Thinking about sourcing some newer carbs that have the idle mixture screw.

[@BrandonsGarage]

You would probably be bandaid'ing the problem with newer carbs. There is a venturi leak test you can do that is described in the service manual, I don't remember what it is at the moment. Have you checked compression? Also, could have other problems, like the crank seals.

[@Effective_wake]

@@BrandonsGarage Thanks for the advice! Yes, I checked compression, 141 PSI on both cylinders. I will try to look for the venturi leak test procedure. Crank seals would be a big oof.

[@BrandonsGarage]

@@Effective_wake you could do the "hand over the carb" test to check for vacuum at cranking. Remove air box, and throw your palm into the throat of the car, really seal it up, and give it a crank. You'll feel it suck in a bit, and then check the bottom. I do this to get them started when the primer solenoid isn't working.

[@Effective_wake]

@@BrandonsGarage Ok, that makes sense. I don't quite understand what you mean by "check the bottom". Do you mean look for fuel in the bottom of the venturi? I tried something similar while the engine was running on one cylinder at idle. I put my hand somewhat over the opening of the top carb (simulating a "choke"). With enough suction it looked like fuel was drawn up through the main jet and then the engine ran better for a few seconds. This experiment prompted the carb rebuild. I need to try it again I think.

[@Effective_wake]

So I finally figured out my problem! There was a rubber cap on a VRO crankcase nipple that had split. I couldn't see it until I removed the starter. I fixed that and now she idles at 900 like a honey. Thanks for all the help!

[@Billeye]

U got to speak up or turn the volume up

[@tedathome3]

I am old you need a mic i cant hear you

[@pietromartini1846]

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