1989 Range Rover Vogue SE - Lets get it going - cold start time Ep9

[@jenshaga4256]

This car has really come alive. Bring it home! Cheers

[@richardholland1116]

Loctite 😂 I have experience of people not understand the different types and how much to apply. I ended up doing a procedure with photos, so they did not drown the threads with the stuff... Great video 👍🏻 I do enjoy the problem solving parts...

[@churchhouseclassics]

There would be a special place in hell for the threadlock abusers alas I fear that they are too thick to realise. I am moving back towards issue resolution processes. I do sometimes need to resolve and then simulate the process for the sake of the video. Things can take a while

[@MregRangieResto-t1e]

Nice to see how the permanent fixture outside your workshop doors managed to turn round Richard. Just blowing slightly we can hear! It did run so much smoother on your throttle position sensor.

[@churchhouseclassics]

I thought it did and this was confirmed when I reviewed the footage later. I suspect that the customer TPS is very tired

[@OldManOfRutland]

" I'll be honest I wasn't expecting that !" 🤣 and " we might have a blow on the exhaust I can just about hear it " 🤣 - priceless - also you move quickly when it was increasing in rev's richard - very impressive !!! - great content - Thank You !

[@churchhouseclassics]

this was a fun day, followed by a rubbish day when the exhaust manifold was removed.... gaaaaaaaaaaaah

[@classicme]

just wow!

[@murrayblair67]

I feel your pain my friend 👍 Manifoldiry magic with heat! Only to be made worse by chinesium parts 👌💪

[@owensteele1645]

I've just re-subscribed. Again! The Range Rover sounds awesome!

[@churchhouseclassics]

Thank you for coming back, I appreciate it. Car runs really sweet

[@keithrushforth4019]

Very interesting as I also have a 1989 but mine is the early version with the 3.5 and flapper EFI. I recently upgraded my ignition with an amplifier module used by GM on the later small block Chevys and it runs noticeably smoother. I've also found that it likes a bit more ignition advance than what the book says, about 8 degrees before TDC seems to be it's sweet spot.

[@churchhouseclassics]

1989 was a cut over for 3.5 and 3.9, this car is a GA chassis number which I think was all 3.9 (could be wrong) ignition I use the crank pulley markings as a guide and more or less always set ignition by ear for that sweet spot. Look at my vids on the Pertronix setup which can be installed instead of the aging Lucas IAM setup. well worth it if the oe setup is starting to wear out. 35DLM8 distributors wear in the baseplate pivot which then allows the top plate to get pulled sideways by the vacuum advance and cause a missfire at 3k rpm ish.

[@keithrushforth4019]

@@churchhouseclassics Thanks for the reply. That's useful to know.

[@Jack-it6qt]

I like your teleportation tricks.

[@churchhouseclassics]

trying to keep the videos interesting, alas tripod is fixed and I can teleport around my yard with no effort what so ever. Teleport device is made exclusively from 1970s Lucas "Prince of Darkness" products

[@billb3444]

I gave up on lock tabs and used D2 bolts and spacers and no issues in 4 years.

[@churchhouseclassics]

I know what you mean, alas the old classic cast manifolds need to be refaced around the bolt holes for that to work. I do believe that it is the correct way forwards. ERR6733 gaskets, decent bolts and no thread lock

[@stevanmurray-vi3dm]

Lovely to hear it fire up like that Richard it always pays to put decent ignition parts on, cannot understand why people insist on using that dam thread lock anywhere near an engine manifold that's the last place it should used, the wiring is as usual a pain to track down all the problems, love every episode Richard .

[@churchhouseclassics]

cheapo nasty ignition components are widespread. main specialist suppliers are selling them, what are you to do? distributordoctor in the UK is my go to 100% of the time. Thread lock should only be sold to folk with more than 5 brain cells and yes, electrical shenanigans always amuse

[@dunmail7744]

RRC 300TDI 275,000 miles - perfect motoring for an old Land Rover guy.

[@churchhouseclassics]

nice

[@speedonwheels]

Hi Richard Yes that's a cowboy builder that works on cars, and nows f_ _ _ all.

[@churchhouseclassics]

we all need to start somewhere, however rule #1 should be if you ever consider using more than a 2mm dot of threadlock then you should be on the receiving end of a gym sock with 3 snooker balls in it

[@boelowildervanck2787]

Hi Richard, where did you het the 93 ETM from? I have not been able to find it online.

[@rambleon2838]

It's in the Rave manual available as a downloadable compressed pdf file on many Rover forums. Be aware of the ECU pin out number changes in 1989, I believe. There's also misleading information on testing the RPM signal wire with the 6.9k ohm resistor from coil negative to the ECU. I was hoping he would have mention it when he tested the coil.

[@petershepherd6889]

Best one I saw With loctite was on a Merc. The apprentice had the rear calipers off and when he refitted them everything was drowned in loctite. Rear brakes rattled like hell and when I looked at them the caliper mounting bolts which go into blind holes had hydraulic locked and wouldn't tighten fully because of the loctite in the bolt hole.

[@churchhouseclassics]

ETM I use is supplied as part of the ROM I bought on a DVD decades ago. OTP (original technical Publications) supply all factory materials on a USB stick. Quite widely available through main retailers. There are some manuals available online around and about but they get taken down as and when they are discovered. RAVE is quite robust and widely available

[@churchhouseclassics]

www.youtube.com/@rambleon2838 that resistor (on hotwire setup) is for the signal to the ECU that tells it the engine is running and to give the fuel pump relay an earth

[@rambleon2838]

@@churchhouseclassics I've watched you ignition master class a few times, but I'm still perplexed by TEST 3: Amplifier Switching, in the Electrical 86 chapter, page 21. And I'm not the only one as this test procedure has been asked in Rover forums and there was not a definite answer, besides the manual is wrong. However, If I disconnect the RPM signal wire with the 6.8K ohm resistor to the ECU from the coil negative post, I do get the 0 volts with ignition off as . The FSM does not specify that nor does it include that wire in the diagram. It only shows the negative LT lead to the amplifier. My conclusion here is that the LT lead to the ECM is the grounded somewhere and is the culprit in the 12V reading with ignition off. I haven't done this test on my 94 RRC LWB which had a crank, but no start condition until I found out that the check valve at the bottom of the fuel pump module was stuck close and prohibited fuel entering the module which also acts as a sump. I have not yet done Test 3 on my 92 to see if I do get the same result. I'd like to know what your take is on Test 3. Thanks.

[@struanrobertson3417]

Fuckhousery 😂😂 logged and to be used as required 👍

[@churchhouseclassics]

That was the politest term I could conjure up

[@gerhardbulla2999]

Richard why should you be luckier tan me?

[@churchhouseclassics]

I am not! luck these days seems to be whether some arse faced weasel has worked on the car before I get to it. But then it is almost inevitable as the car was worth it's weight in scrap not that long ago so shoestring budgets and bodges were used just to keep it moving. That said, an entire thread dipped in threadlock, they should be crapping a pineapple every day for the rest of their lives

[@daler2577]

I completely agree❤. There are some utter morons out there.... They are clearly needed agitating that Loctite is not a substitute for lock tabs..😢 It only promotes angry mechanics.... Luckily Rich has a sense of humour...... Looking forward to the MG vid videos

[@churchhouseclassics]

I hate breaking stuff, I hate breaking customer stuff infinitely more. The RH head needs to come off, and it makes sense to also remove the LH head complete with manifold. I can then see if the bolts can be removed any easier. alas the RH head is no longer economical to repair; 5 studs that broke using my wrench and one that was already broken with the stud remains glued in place - hours of work for remove and then helicoil, so It could well be destined for the scrap bin. Used heads are not in short supply and I have a number of sets of post 1976 v8 heads which could be used instead.. watch this space

[@daler2577]

@@churchhouseclassics let's hope you don't need a pair of heads for me then ! Although I've heard two heads are better than one🤣 & on the plus side you would have had a little bit of practice in this exact same issue for when you come to do mine.....