2016 Toyota Highlander Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill

[@abodao]

Excellent "how to". Very detailed and suggestions and tips along the way. Thank You.

[@condor5635]

Glad it helped!

[@MrCalifornia1234]

I did this service at 60K. Never jacked up the car and didn’t even take off the wheel. Just turned the wheel to the left and it gave me access to fill the same amount of WS that I took out. Car now shifts smoother than it ever has. Old fluid dark. Will do the drain and fill every 30K. Took me 30 minutes. 👍

[@condor5635]

That’s great. Good job. 2 quarts every 30,000 miles is probably good. I think you’d wanna check the level though even though you’re putting the same amount in. You don’t know presumably what you started with. And you definitely don’t wanna have the wrong level. Replacing with the exact amount is probably good for one time maybe two. After that I would want to check it

[@promise72]

You are a lifesaver. I was able to do it which says a lot. I thought it was a daunting task but your video was simple and straight to the point

[@condor5635]

Thanks

[@ammcfc1]

Great video! Thanks! You made the fluid level adjustment just as Toyota recommend. In their documents is written - "Wait until the automatic transmission fluid flow slows and only drips come out." The other KZbinrs I watched replace drain plug when the fluid trickles more intense and even just before starting to trickle. Maybe this will be good decision if the RPM are below 800...Who knows...

[@smithwesson7149]

I just did the drain and fill on wife's 2016 HLander with 30,000 miles. Let it sit overnight and drained exactly 64 ounces and replaced with two quarts of the Toyota WS. Have not checked fluid level yet with scan tool but based on your video, I should be pretty close on the fluid level. Great video and very helpful!

[@condor5635]

Glad it helped- anything to keep the wives happy. Mine drives ours too! Have a great one!

[@ToyotaMaintenance]

very nice video...thanks for sharing !

[@emiliobrugueras7249]

One of the best, well explained transmission drain and fill videos I've seen. Thank you!

[@condor5635]

Emilio Brugueras - thanks Emilio - good luck with your work!

[@jaysantos4391]

Hello condor. at time I have to open the drain in 104 •f the engine it has to be “on”

[@condor5635]

jay santos Engine is running while you wait for the temperature range to be achieved and throughout the final drain. Thanks!

[@jaysantos4391]

condor5635 thank you

[@shaynestebbing5597]

Very well explained video mate, I want to change the filter also and have a look at the condition of the sump pan and magnets to determine whether or not to get the whole trans flushed aswell .. thanks again for sharing your video

[@condor5635]

Appreciate the comment. Have the OEM pan gasket in my garage now. Will be dropping the pan first time in couple weeks next oil change. 85k miles. Will let you know how it goes

[@shaynestebbing5597]

@@condor5635.. can't wait to do the spark plugs.. that'll be fun

[@condor5635]

@@shaynestebbing5597 - already done them on my other HL. Not a lot of fun 😞

[@damienbell3155]

Great job, you performed it correctly. Scan tool definitely needed to tell temp 104-112 I think

[@user-wq5ws1qs7x]

I did mine and 102 oz came out. According to the maintenance literature a drain and fill should be about 3.2 quarts. I put back exactly came out and didn’t use my scan gauge since it broke. Did you remove the orange tube also when draining because that’s where most come out?

[@condor5635]

Yes I remove the orange straw. What year is yours? I’m very surprised you got 102 ounces. I do it all the time and I only get 57-58 oz. I have to think it’s a model year difference.

[@user-wq5ws1qs7x]

@@condor5635 I have a 2017 so that must be the difference. I believe you have a pan and I do not. I did see another video where they drop the pan to get more out. Did you ever try the other method of getting the transmission temperature where you put a jumper cable on your OBD port between the 4th prong on the first row and 5th on the 2nd row? Then you put the car in gear and quickly change it between drive and neutral. When it gets to the temperature to check it will say “D” when it’s in neutral. If it get too hot it will flash “D”. Anyway look it up.

[@condor5635]

@@user-wq5ws1qs7x - I definitely tried that but could never get it to work! Not sure if I was doing the sequence wrong or what but would like to get that to work even though I have ScanGauge. Did you have success? No offense but the first thing I would permanently disable if I had a 2017 is that auto turn off feature. Can’t stand that and so happy mine does not have it 2017 was first year it was introduced. Thanks!

[@user-wq5ws1qs7x]

@@condor5635 it did work for me. And yeah the auto start stop sucks, so I disable every time I start up the vehicle. A vehicle turning on and off that much can’t be good. I’m should look at permanently disabling it though.

[@condor5635]

@@user-wq5ws1qs7x be interesting if you do it and what you have to do. Gotta think it’s not too hard though. Thanks

[@juniorsarmiento7292]

Do I only need 2 qts if I’m changing filter and fluid? And not actually doing a flush?

[@condor5635]

No you’ll need at least 3 quarts to do a filter change since dropping the pan allows you to get another quart or so above and beyond just a drain and fill (~2 quarts)

[@juniorsarmiento7292]

@@condor5635 i don’t have a tool to take temperature, can I use check level at operating temperature?

[@condor5635]

@@juniorsarmiento7292 - not really according to the literature on this. Is the history of the vehicle known? If new you can assume it is at correct level and refill what drained out. If not find someone or get an infrared temp gun and use that on the pan waiting for ~105-110 deg F. The operating temp of the fluid after driving can be anywhere from 125-160 or more depending how hard it was driven. Furthermore just turning it on an idling will take you above the 110 range after 10 minutes or so. So hard really to say here is a technique to use without a device other than draining what comes out which assumes it was correct to begin with. Thanks for watching

[@namjaroh1745]

Great video with perfect noises

[@rayoh2011]

Hi Sir, thanks for an excellent tutorial. I would like to know if you could tell us what is the part number or their official part name for the 2 bolts you show at 6:34. Thanks!

[@condor5635]

I believe part number is 9008011373

[@rayoh2011]

@@condor5635 Thank you for the quick reply. I found another Part Number: 9008010338, please check it out. parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2016_Highlander-LE-35L-2WD/BOLT/62986206/9008010338.html

[@condor5635]

@@rayoh2011 - best to go call Toyota and ask. It is a very common bolt on these vehicles for covers securing lines etc

[@rayoh2011]

@@condor5635 Cool :)

[@nghiadinh94]

Does the 24mm fill plug has the gasket? And does it need to be replaced? What is the part number for it? Thanks for the great video.

[@condor5635]

Nghia Dinh - thanks. Yes it has a crush washer but it is not necessary to replace it in my opinion. I reuse the original and have done so 3-4 times now without issue. As a matter of fact I don’t even think the transmission fluid even gets to that level even when the car is running so it is even less likely to be necessary. Regardless I have had no issues reusing the original. Thanks for the comment!

[@garychen483]

condor5635 where is the fill plug and how did you fill with the new ATF ?

[@geraldevans2535]

I’ve reused the meta washer twice. No leaks

[@shankable]

my 2016 has 70k on it now, and its a hybrid. i was going to do this service but at 45 seconds in you said its just whats in the pan. so if i want this done as a full change i need to take it and have it flushed to clean the lines out other wise im still using about half old fluid.

[@condor5635]

You can easily remove the line out of the transmission cooler which goes from the cooler to the transmission - at that point you can turn the car on and let a quart or two get pumped out. Turn off the car and replace the quart or two. Continue to do that until the fluid runs pink

[@banffmt]

Great job and great video!! I just followed exact the same procedure. I used an OBDII to read the trans temp. My 2017 highlander is brand new. I drained the fluid at 49k miles. I removed exactly 3 qt and put 3 1/4 qt back in. However, when the trans temp went up to 107F, I got almost 1 qt of fluid out when I tried to drain the excess. Does that mean Toyota overfilled it at the factory? I am afraid my trans is underfilled now. 3 1/4 - 1 = 2 1/4 qt. That is 3/4 less than I originally drain out.

[@condor5635]

Very surprised you drained 3 quarts. I only got at most 2 quarts. Your car was level and cold for a while I presume?. I believe transmission is same. Mine is a U660E - check door jam. You were running car in park with RPMs about 800 while temperature increased to the draining temp?

[@condor5635]

Curious what ODB device did you use to capture the temperature?

[@banffmt]

@@condor5635 I got this from amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078K54MT5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $27 and you also need to spend $10 for Toyota in the app. You can read everything. It is amazing. You can monitor everything from your iphone.

[@banffmt]

@@condor5635 Ok, I drained the oil when I drove the car for 5 min hoping I can make the warm oil drain better. Now, I didn't realize the oil will expand after warm up. All in all, I drained 3 qt of warm oil out and put 3 qt of room temp oil back in. That might be the reason why I got more out at the end when I tried to level it. Anyway, I followed the instruction to get the excess out at around 105F trans temp so I think I am good. My lesson learn here is if we don't use the trans temp, we can swap the old cold trans fluid with new cold trans fluid with the exact amount. Thanks for your video again!

[@condor5635]

@@banffmt - i’m shocked that this reader actually reads transmission temperature on a Toyota I have the expensive Bluedriver and it does not read transmission temperature. It actually reads the transmission temperature on your Toyota Highlander?

[@eddarmofal]

ok thanks, thumbs up. I plan to attempt the project soon. looks like may have to do it 4 or 5 times? you say there is actually about 10 qts total. be nice if they could design it that 100% drain out? one more thing, you said you have done it more than once? seems to me easiest and most efficient way could be just do the drain and fill after the car sits overnight, cold? just drain out the 57 ounces and fill 57 ounces with new fluid? drive a few days to mix it up, and repeat? try to get a mix of about 90 to 10% new fluid in the system?

[@condor5635]

Yes, I’ve done it several times. I just do it as a part of normal maintenance. 2 quarts. Every time keeps the fluid very clean. Yes, you could just drain and fill drain and fill based on a known quantity. I don’t mind doing the temperature check it’s not that big of a deal, if you’re really concerned about getting it all out then it’s very easy to remove the ATF cooler line that returns to the transmission and pump out 2 quarts refill 2 quarts and repeat three or four times turning the car on the pump and turning the car off to stop pumping. That’s a one time effort it would get it all out and it’s fairly easy to do. Just do the temperature check at the very end and you’ll be fine.

[@eddarmofal]

@@condor5635 I watched the video again and you say that just drain out the 57 oz and then add 57oz new fluid? should work. too lazy to do the temp test? thanks again, thumbs up. should do it myself and save money?

[@movietime111]

awesome video... since you tested how the fluid expands at different temps, does it really make a difference if drain over fill at 120-130f? Thanks,

[@condor5635]

BodhisattvaMahasattva - to be honest I think the temperature being at 120-130 would get you a perfectly fine level within the margin of error. The fluid does not expand any between 113 and 120-130. Especially considering how you watch it come to a trickle (real precise right?) in order to know when to stop the draining. I did a test of a quart of this fluid between 70 and 175 deg and I did not see any significant volume changes between those extremes. I believe there is something more fundamental with the internal transmission parts expanding and causing volume changes within the transmission itself rather than the actual fluid temperature being the main driver. Just my observations. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@pedrobilt7324]

Very good diy video, thank you for taking your time to show us

[@condor5635]

Pedro Bilt - Thanks! - I have done this 2-3 times now and it is very consistent and easy to DIY.

[@albertsln]

You are the best brother....very nice video thanks 😂

[@eddarmofal]

I am confused? you say you got 40oz out than 17oz??? shouldn't you get nothing out? then 57 oz after taking out the red tube??? after you put the fluid in and finished? if you let it sit overnight, nothing should come out when taking out the drain plug next day??

[@condor5635]

If you drain the pan you will get 57-60 oz total fluid once bolt and straw are both removed. That’s why putting in 2 full quarts works great when refilling and doing temperature procedure. Make sense? Thanks for watching

[@WickedFk8]

I dont understand this process. Why warm up the car and remove the drajn plug? I didnt see the part you fill in the fluid.

[@condor5635]

Warm up car if you want to make fluid drain faster and probably get more junk out since particles although minute are suspended in the fluid. Fill area is shown around 7:00. Tganks for watching

[@nukestrom5719]

Well explained than most other videos. I have 18 Sienna and the gear 1 is funny, so I'm thinking to do the same.

[@condor5635]

Thanks! Good luck with your effort. It is an easy job and like I say in the video not something to get overly worried about.

[@thebeastfrank6346]

what type of motor oil recomend for a highlander 2016 with 62.000 miles 0w20 ,5w20 , or other

[@condor5635]

The beast Frank - OW-20 is what the 2016 Highlander requires

[@stevensevek6151]

The same as is recommended when the vehicle is new. Never use high mileage oil regardless of the mileage on the engine. Unless the engine is showing serious signs of wear. Even then if gaskets are leaking, replace them...

[@Bushy556]

Toyota recommends 0w-20 but that is CAFE standards only. In the manual it says you can use a heavier oil. Highlanders sold outside the US recommend 5w-30.

[@adamxu]

I changed my car's transmission fluid yesterday, a 2015 Highlander, called Kluger here in Australia. This car's transmission fluid had never been replaced as I only got Toyota to service it in the first 3 years (60,000Km) during warranty period, and then I did the services myself in the past 5 years, now nearly 140,000 km. I put the car overnight, however, surprisingly it drained 550mL when the drain plug was removed, then 1050mL after the red tube was removed. Does it mean the original fluid was filled too much? As the temperature was definitely under 104F, or 40C.

[@adamxu]

1.6L definitely is not enough to replace the transmission fluid, at least there is lots of fluid in the pan which could not be drained from the hole which sits much higher than the pan bottom. I'm thinking of sucking it out by a small tube, otherwise I need to remove the pan. What do you think?

[@adamxu]

Do we really need to heat the transmission to 104F to drain excessive fluid? Can we just fill new fluid until it starts overflowing from the red tube?

[@adamxu]

When the engine/transmission is cool, does more transmission fluid flow back to the pan as I got 550mL when opened the drain plug? When the engine starts, some transmission fluid will be transferred into the transmission gears, so no fluid coming out if the drain plug is removed? When the transmission temperature is going up to 104F, the fluid level will be nearly at the top of the red tube?

[@adamxu]

If the fluid is over filled, is there any problem in the transmission and any warning indication on the display panel?

[@condor5635]

Adam 54 oz is about right for draining you did. After draining put in 2 new quarts - 64 oz - and follow my process to remove the extra few ounces. Pretty simple

[@pjfan173]

My wife’s 2013 RX 350 has only 30K miles on it and I’ve asked the dealership to do the transmission service and they told me there’s no need. I think I’m going to follow your instructions and do it myself. I bought a 7000lbs Quickjack so to do oil changes on a 2017 corvette Grand Sport that I bought last summer. I’ve never done any service like this stuff myself, but with videos like yours these services are not as intimidating.

[@condor5635]

pjfan173 - easy job. Have fun!

[@AlanLNK]

Hi. Can you send me a photo of where all the hoses go? I replace the cooler and don’t know which hose goes where .

[@condor5635]

When the cooler is mounted, the bottom nipple goes back to the transmission. The top nipple comes from the radiator cooler.

[@condor5635]

Why did you replace the cooler?

[@AlanLNK]

@@condor5635 it was broken.

[@AlanLNK]

@@condor5635 what about other hose coming out of transmission?

[@condor5635]

@@AlanLNK - 1 hose comes out of the transmission and goes to the radiator. From there it goes into the external cooler. From there it goes back to the transmission.

[@medtechnologies5493]

Where is the dip stick located? (2016 AWD highlander)

[@condor5635]

There is no dip stick

[@normaalcorn9411]

so i have to get the hose thing to refill? Whats tec name, and have at advanced auto?

[@condor5635]

Hose and funnel works for me but a funnel might work by itself. Make something for yourself long term like I did

[@CarlosGarcia-ev2hp]

Nice video! Where do you put the temperature reader?

[@condor5635]

OBD port

[@CarlosGarcia-ev2hp]

@@condor5635 thank you. Is that something one can rent from an auto part store?

[@condor5635]

@@CarlosGarcia-ev2hp - no but you can buy an infrared thermometer cheap, which in my experience is within a degree or two, and totally adequate when pointed at the pan. I actually did a test comparing the two and they were very close. Close enough for government work. 😀

[@CarlosGarcia-ev2hp]

@condor5635 thanks again man!

[@tonymontana897]

Hi. I'm wondering if your transmission is the U660E. BTW, you don't have to replace the drain plug or drain tube. Just clean and re use the original. Toyota would love to sell you every little thing, but it's totally unnecessary. Also, I'm sure you'd get more out when the transmission is warm as the fluid expands. You Americans are so old fashioned with your imperial measure. 29/ 64ths and 57 ounces. I can't even imagine what a 29/64th tube would look like. But if you were to say 10mm I'd visualise it straight away.

[@condor5635]

Tony Montana - thanks for the comment and watching. I don’t replace the drain tube or the drain plug. I don’t even replace the washer on either the fill plug or the drain plug. I only happen to get those parts as spares and to visualize what I’d be working with. Not sure you’re correct with warm transmission getting more fluid out because the fluid hasn’t settled but I’ve become so familiar with this procedure it’s no big deal. Yes I love the metric system too but I can also deal with our cruddy imperial system just like you can visualize 10 mm. My transmission is a U660E. Thanks again!

[@BMBangladesh]

Thank you. Would you please consider posting video of ATF filter change when you hit 50-60k miles? Thank you again for this very informative video. An asset to our KZbin DIY community.

[@whenopportunitycomes8718]

So how has it been running since then? How many miles do you have on it now? Thanks for the informative video

[@condor5635]

GM B - 55K miles now. To be completely honest it runs like brand new. Transmission is like new and it just feels pretty much like the day I bought it. I have done all preventative maintenance - coolant change, oil changes and ATF drain and fills. Only replacement was a new battery. Original went bad after 3 yrs or so. Thanks for commenting!

[@whenopportunitycomes8718]

@@condor5635 Really appreciate your reply. Soon I will change mine.

[@condor5635]

GM B - I'd say good luck but you don't need it. Procedure is very straightforward and not a big deal like dealers/manufacturers make it out to be. Let me know how it goes!

[@whenopportunitycomes8718]

@@condor5635 I did it. All bolts were easy. The plastic fill tube was really easy. I could have reused it. I was surprised to see that it drained tiny bit below 1.5 quarts. It took a while for it to warm up. When I took the bolt off and it drained for several seconds...when I looked the bucket was just tiny bit above 2 quarts. Many thanks for your video. Now I just hope things will stay stable with my transmission. 👍👍

[@condor5635]

GM B - you definitely can reuse the straw. I only showed it as a new part just for reference. It’s plenty good to use forever. And it does take quite a while for the transmission fluid to come to temperature from ambient temperature. Glad it helped. Thank you

[@shadovs1]

. Thanks for the video. What was the scan tool that you used?

[@condor5635]

ScanGauge 2

[@hbs1011]

Would the fluid level be too low or too high if you were at 104 degrees but only 6K RPM instead of 8K and filled?

[@condor5635]

First of all the RPMs required is 800 RPMs not thousands. I suspect when you go from 600 RPMs to 800 RPMs the fluid level in the pan is going to drop. But that’s just my guess. I use a small piece of wood and adjust the seat which is electric to kind of tweak the RPMs to 800. Just replace the drain plug once do you have a small trickle but before it stops trickling. Get the temperature in the 100 to 110 range and the 800 RPMs and you’ll be plenty good! Thanks for commenting

[@hbs1011]

@@condor5635 Thanks for the quick reply and the great video!

[@vincekhoo870]

Where would you put the lead for the instrument to measure the transmission temp?

[@condor5635]

Vince Khoo - there is no lead. The Scangauge II hooks directly up to your OBD port and reads the actual temperature sensor within the transmission. Thanks for watching

[@TXAG81]

Where did you get the data with regard to required fluid temps, idle speed, etc. to set the fluid at the proper level?

[@condor5635]

I honestly forget exactly. I think just looking at the Internet and other sources. I think for Toyotas it’s all fairly standard. I personally think they make this sound so absolutely critical just to scare people off from attempting it themselves. I was intimidated when I first did my first change. Now after doing it it’s very straightforward and easy. Don’t be scared. I think for all Toyota’s if you get it in the 100 to 110 temp range and you have the RPMs at 800 you will be fine. Thanks for watching

[@TXAG81]

@@condor5635 The only Toyota TSB I’ve found is the one for Tundra from 2007, which is the procedure I used for my 2008 Sequoia. But now have a 2020 Tundra & Sequoia, and my daughter’s 2016 Highlander in front of me. Thanks for making your video. Much appreciated.

[@condor5635]

@@TXAG81 - I love my 2016 it’s got about 66,000 miles on it now and it drives like it did the day I got it. I’m gonna be changing the transmission filter and gasket here in the next month or two. Cycle through several quarts of oil over the years and the transmission must be in pristine shape. Glad I got a 2016 because it’s the 2017 or the auto engine off feature came in to play. That would be the first thing I would disable if I bought a new one!! Thanks for watching

[@codyq0987]

@condor5635, Thank you for this tutorial. I do have a question that really got me confused. When I first drain my sienna 2012, I got less than 2QT ATF fluid out and I saw you got the similar fluid out from your highlander. After I refill the car with 2.2 QT ATF, the car drains around 0.8 QT out after the oil reaches 105F. In other words, i think my car was overfilled in factory. In your case, you first drained < 2QT. How much oil you refill in and how much oil you drained out when the temperature reaches 104F? Thank you very much!

[@condor5635]

codyq0987 -i’ve done this several times now and it’s always been very consistent. I drain out -56 ounces with the straw/tube removed. I put in two full quarts and then once the temperature reaches 105 to 107 about 4-6 ounces comes out and that’s it. As long as you’re replacing the drain plug when there’s a small trickle and the straws is properly inserted and the temperature is what you said I think you’re fine. Remember the straw goes in quite difficult at first then there’s a period of very easy turning and then it bottoms out again after several turns. Once the last visible part of the straw is flush with the pan (several turns to get it there) I think there’s nine more turns to get it to bottom out and be in the proper deeply recessed location. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@codyq0987]

I started to use the HF 3/8in 6mm hex socket but realized that the center hex stem is bottom out against the oil pan, so later I replace with a 6mm allen wrench. After following all the instructions, I still could drain out 0.8 QT oil out which is way too much. I also saw the video '14-17 Highlander transmission fluid and filter change' by Joe Howto. As you can see, he drained lots of ATF at the very beginning, similar as my case. If the original fill level is correct, why both he and I experienced so much fluid train out? I don' think the higher temperature can cause such significant volume expansion. I am completely lost and end up refill the ATF around 1.8 QT without checking the temperature. The reason why I refill 1.8QT is because the car first drained 1.8QT after removing the tube and drain plug. thank you!

[@codyq0987]

I also checked '14-17 highlander transmission fluid and filter change' by Joe Howto. In his video, he drains a lot of ATF fluid similar in my case. If the original refill is correct, I don't expect so much fluid can be drained even if the temperature is higher than 104F. Do you have any theory why this happened?

[@condor5635]

codyq0987 - The video you mentioned removed the pan as well which obviously will result in more fluid captured. In our case where the pan is not removed the important thing is to have a small trickle when the temperature is in the range required while the car is running. Once you drain the amount which in your case you indicated was similar to mine just under 2 quarts - we refill with slightly more than that with the overflow bolt in place. Start the car and make onitor the temperature and when it reaches 105 to 107 remove the overflow bolt. At that point fluid should come out and if it does wait till the small trickle and replace the bolt. If no fluid comes out at that point then you didn't put enough fluid in and you need to add and attempt again. Hope this helps. Thanks

[@safdarmehfooz503]

You must need to take out the red drain plug for full drainage

[@starzztop]

Great video! I have a question, I’ve seen lots of videos on KZbin showing this same procedure except the 800 rpm’s when checking the level. I did check with Toyota and the repair manual shows the method using Techstream software and it does show the 800 rpm’s when on fluid detection mode on techstream, however im going to just use the scangauge instead. Is the 800 rpm still more accurate without using techstream or just let it idle and using the scangauge. Why the 800 rpm’s? Thanks just subscribed.

[@condor5635]

Why skip 800 RPM? Just use a stick and the automatic seat adjustment to get it roughly to 800 which is a little higher than a regular idle. ScanGauge will tell you RPM too. I am assuming the 800 is producing pressure and ‘throwing’ fluid around somewhere within the transmission and that is the RPM they know they want to then check the fluid at. I have done this procedure so many time now it is easy. I would like to use tech stream but have never been successful at installations it etc with all the license crap. Have you done this procedure yet? What year Toyota?

[@starzztop]

@@condor5635 2012 Toyota Camry. I will be doing a drain and fill next week It has 110,000 miles and never draiand refilled the transmission, this will be the first time. I have the scangauge and it does show transmission temperature and rpm’s. I also have a pedal depressor to adjust the rpm’s by turning the knob. I just wanted to ask you if Toyota recommends setting the idle to 800 rpm’s? Thanks

[@starzztop]

@@condor5635 one more question, where did you get the information about setting the RPM to 800? Thank you!

[@condor5635]

@@starzztop - yes I believe if you get it into the transmission temp check mode by shorting some wires on the OBDC port (which I have never been successful at doing on my 2016 HL) that is one of the parameters it monitors and controls at 800 RPMs.

[@ammcfc1]

@@starzztop Hi! Have you successfully made drain&fill of your Camry? I've read that many mechanics do not recommend changing oil if 100k milestone is passed. There is risk of ATF failure,

[@tomm2271]

Hi condor5635 I was just checking in to see if you saw my questions from a few days ago. Thank you!

[@condor5635]

Tom M - hi Tom I saw it in the email but I could never locate it within the actual KZbin video. And believe me I spent about five or 10 minutes looking for it. What I ended up thinking as you had deleted it or something because I could not find it I just reread it from the email and here’s what I’m thinking. I’m not sure about which trainee you have. It is noted on the door jam however mine is an U660E. You’ll see it on the door jam sticker on the bottom left part of the sticker where it says A/TM. As far as the quantity I’d be hard-pressed to think you’re going to get more than 2 quarts from a drain. So I would plan on 2 to 3 quarts max. If I were you I would just do this procedure every 25-30,000 miles. It’s really easy and that would essentially replace ~1/3 (assuming 7 quarts total which is what mine has) of your transmission fluid every time you do it. Make sure you measure what comes out and do it when it’s cold so you’ll establish a baseline of what the car has cold overnight while level. I don’t know what the temperature range yours would be but all the temperature ranges for Toyotas that I’ve read about or seen are in that 104 to 112 range. To be honest getting it anywhere in that range is going to be sufficient because you’re in the weeds at that point. You’ll be able to validate as well what you drained out and what you put in assuming that the ATF level you bought it in was correct. Hope that helps. Thanks for commenting and the discussion.

[@condor5635]

I made a mistake on the quantities I guess the total capacity of mine is more like 10 quarts as I said in the video so a typical drain is probably 2 quarts which would be 20%. So doing this every 25 to 30,000 would definitely be a good thing to do as recurring maintenance.

[@tomm2271]

@@condor5635 Hi condor! Thanks a million for all of your help. Will do on the 25k to 30k! btw, I checked the door jam : U760 E Also, I found on a Toyota owners site where a member advised that my Camry's range is 94F to 113F . Like you said, in the range should fine. What do you think?

[@condor5635]

Tom M yep sounds right. Good luck - it is not a tough job and the dealers all make it sound more like rocket science than it really is. End of the day it ends up getting you the right amount of fluid the same way you do it when there is a dipstick you just have to do it from underneath. Getting the equivalent amount (hot range on the old dipstick) is just a little more complicated because you are letting the fluid out dynamically to get the proper level which is fixed by tube design. One final point - make sure you reseat the plastic straw snugly when reinstalling. For mine, it go on very easy at first and then go through a significantly harder section of a few turns then it get easy until the final seating. The torque spec will make sure it goes through that harder section. Might count the rotations when taking it out and count again when putting it back on. That way you will know how far you need to go. I think mine took about 9 turns once the bottom of the straw is flush with bottom of the pan. Good luck!

[@tomm2271]

@@condor5635 good idea on the stand pipe removal. thanks again!

[@dream_samurai]

Спасибо тебе дорогой друг за подробное видео🤝

[@damienbell3155]

You should post link where you purchased the scan tool thx. You video is outstanding , their are a lot of people doing the procedure incorrectly. I worked at yota Lexus 12 yrs. but I ended up finding that scanner.

[@condor5635]

Damien Bell - ScanGauge Ii is the name

[@njsongwriter]

Scangauge II is available on Amazon.

[@damienbell3155]

Ok thx.

[@mannya1282]

Great video Condor!2 questions:-How did you get the vinyl tube to firmly stick onto the funnel and that black plastic piece? -Is the Idle speed the same as RPM?I bought a scangauge in order to read ATF temp.I can’t find a specific code for idle on my scangauge.

[@condor5635]

Manny A - on the funnel I pushed the tube over the end and then drilled a hole through it and pushed a finishing nail through it. That’s does not affect the flow or anything but does secure it nicely. Then I put some black shrink tubing over the entire piece as seen once I trimmed the nail. Idle speed refers to the RPMs while idling. Scangauge has a web site to show codes for various vehicles so consult that. I show the code for the Highlander in the video. Thanks for the comment and for watching!

[@mannya1282]

Thank you, I appreciate the update.

[@atticstattic]

Where did you find a torque wrench that measures below 20 in-lbs?

[@condor5635]

You got me! It’s supposed to be 15 foot pounds. Thanks for catching that

[@atticstattic]

@@condor5635 You're certain of that? That seems like a lot for a plastic part. The straw for a 2016 RAV4 calls for a spec of 7 in-lbs.

[@condor5635]

atticstattic - Actually I think the plastic straw is 15 inch pounds like I noted. You’re right it’s a very small amount due to it being plastic. You really have to be careful with the plastic straw because it gets tight at some point but then it loosens up again until it bottoms out. So the important part is to get through that first part

[@atticstattic]

@@condor5635 That sounds more like it as the RAV4 has a green straw that's probably for a smaller fill volume - although I still haven't found a torque wrench below 20 in-lbs. Incidentally, the plug on the Rav uses the same 6mm wrench but that was too big for the straw - I had to use a T-35 Torx bit.

[@condor5635]

atticstattic - I wouldn’t worry about the torque setting too much - just make sure you go through the tight part and you’ll feel it bottom out - just need to be snug. You’ll feel what I mean once you do it

[@njsongwriter]

Good job on the video. I have Scangauge too but my 2009 RAV4has a dipstick. So I'm good to go. My next vehicle will likely be a newer Highlander.

[@stevensevek6151]

Even though you have a dip-stick you do know that there is a temperature range that the ATF should be at when the fluid reads in the hot zone on the dip-stick.

[@ferndog1461]

Watch Car Angel's review of the Toyota Highlander. Very informative.

[@Chorizomicks]

What is the temperature range for fluid check?

[@condor5635]

Joseph Juguilon - 104-113

[@njsongwriter]

For the 2016 Highlander it is as Joe says in his video. However for other makes or models without a dipstick it may vary. With vehicles that have a dipstick it should be checked at normal operating temperature which is 158° to 176°F in our 2009 RAV4. And the reading on the dipstick should be in the hot zone.

[@stevebrackett2676]

Excellent job. Thanks for the effort on the video

[@condor5635]

Steve Brackett thanks! It’s a very easy job. Don’t be intimidated from undertaking it. I change two quarts every other oil change. I plan on dropping the pan at 50,000 miles and cleaning the magnets etc. I still have been unsuccessful at getting my 2016 highlander into ATF temperature mode (not even sure if it has that mode) so I have to use the Scangauge2 and this works great. Thanks again

[@stevebrackett2676]

condor5635 Your timing was perfect , as we too have a 2016 model. And I especially like your gravity fill method vs the hand pumps I’ve used in the past.

[@condor5635]

Steve Brackett -I went one step further and bought a new fill bolt, drilled it out to the size of my fill hose which totally seals it when filling. Bolt cost a few bucks at Toyota

[@condor5635]

How s that ATF draining and replacement on the Highlander going Steve?

[@rickt2419]

How many miles at the time did you drain-n-filled the WS ATF for your Highlander ?

[@condor5635]

Rick T - I do a two quart drain and fill every other oil change. Easy to do since I have it on the ramps. First one I did was probably 15-20k after new. Thanks for watching

[@rickt2419]

@@condor5635 Thank You!

[@codyq0987]

May you please share the size of the plastic tube? thank you

[@condor5635]

codyq0987 - 7/16th outside diameter, 5/16th inside. thanks for watching!

[@condor5635]

Codyq0987 - Did you mean the size of the red plastic straw?

[@codyq0987]

Thank you!

[@lifejourneytv1427]

What kind of scan tool did you used to monitor fluid temp?

[@condor5635]

Vincent Locsin - Scangauge 2 is the scan shown tool - 8:30 shows it. Thanks for watching

[@lifejourneytv1427]

Why is that there is too many codes for ATF temp?

[@condor5635]

Vincent Locsin - no idea what you are asking

[@lifejourneytv1427]

Codes in the video 8:33

[@condor5635]

Vincent Locsin - Vincent there aren’t too many codes in the video. Those are the codes for a 2016 Toyota highlander on a Scangauge 2 scan tool. They’re verified working for my car and should work for any other Highlander 2016 and others. Don’t ask me why there’s so many characters in a code. Thanks

[@vuvu3421]

have anyone try the techstream OBD on ebay instead to get the temperature? I found scangause seem to be too expensive for such DIY since temperature is the only data we need. Also, thanks OP for the great video. Looking to start with my 2014.5 camry in next couple days

[@condor5635]

Bach Le - unfortunately Techstream is way too expensive and most folks that use it are more than likely using a pirated copy. The Scangauge2 has a lot of nice features you can use outside of the temperature for the ATF. Might consider just doing the drain and fill of the known quantity as I discussed here. Just be sure you get the car in a consistent state of level and you should be fine assuming the car was properly filled to begin with. Good luck and thanks for watching.

[@vuvu3421]

yeah, i end up buying the $35 techstream on ebay as mentioned. It seem cheaper compare to the scangauge still. Also thanks for the level with magnet tip. I also thought about doing that but not exactly sure if the trans pan bottom makes a 90 degrees angle with the drain tube or not. Now it is totally confidence. I probably will get 2 and line them up in L shape to level all direction. Also i thought about running the AC to ensure the RPM will stay low during idling. Hopefully that will get the amount to even more accurate.

[@condor5635]

Bach Le - be interested in hearing about success or lack thereof of getting the techstream up and running. Thanks!

[@MrCalifornia1234]

Well done. Did you run the vehicle through the gears before you tested the fluid level?

[@condor5635]

MrCalifornia1234 - Yes I did but to be honest I have done it both ways and did not notice any difference. Thanks for watching!

[@stanislav9608]

@@condor5635 Nice tutorial video. Only one thing is unclear, if Toyota recommends to run from Park to Drive a few times or not right after the start of the engine. I know it is recommended for all vehicles with the dipstick. Running the gears let the fluid flow to the torque converter, and maybe the level reading would be different. I am trying to figure it out and so far nobody knows

[@condor5635]

Trianon - done it both ways. Did not notice any difference. Definitely would not hurt if you did while waiting for the rise in temp.

[@stanislav9608]

@@condor5635 Thanks. In a few days I will drain and fill second time , and this time I go through the gears and also keep rpm at 800. I appreciate your advice.

[@condor5635]

Trianon good job!

[@drudy7255]

Great video, would like to know when car is running , do you have it in neutral or a specific gear like drive. Using your method on my 2010 Avalon works great ,but if using the scanner for temp 104 to 114 degrees where do you place transmission, specific gear or neutral? Thanks for your help.

[@condor5635]

D Rudy - thanks. Highlander is in Park the entire time. Using the ScangaugeII for RPMs you can adjust the throttle to 800 rpm's. I cut a small piece of wood that sits against the driver power seat on one end and the throttle pedal on the other. Cut it to a length that you can then use the power seat adjustment to tweak it to 800 rpm's which is very easy. You can probably use the tach as well but it won't be quite as accurate. I actually just did this drain and fill this past weekend. Thanks again for watching.

[@stanislav9608]

@@condor5635 what is the purpose of running the engine to 800 rpm's. It runs 650-700 rpm's anyway. This is first time I heard it. Could you give a reason?

[@condor5635]

Trianon - presumably the 800 RPM runs the engine at the speed required to run the transmission pump at the required speed - the speed changes the level of the fluid hence the 800 RPMs. Thanks

[@stanislav9608]

@@condor5635 - Are your torque specs from Toyota: drain plug 29 ft/lbs, fill plug 36 ft/lbs?

[@condor5635]

Trianon yes. The fill bolt I never worry about. It is large and just snugging it nice and tight is easy and adequate. Replacing the washer on the fill bolt is something I have never done either and have had zero issues. It’s not an area with constant fluid like the drain bolt. Thanks

[@delfinsp.jkedzior5713]

Lexus rx 350 2gr-fe is the same temperature and rmp ?

[@condor5635]

Delfin Sp.J Kędzior - more than likely but not positive. Need to somehow get hold of the TSB or technical service bulletin for your car. Thanks for watching!

[@charlespolite6954]

Delfin Sp.J Kędzior I

[@pjfan173]

Did you do this to your Lexus RX 350? My wife’s is a 2013 RX 350 and the dealership is saying it doesn’t need to be done. I think I’ll do it myself

[@Cmimss]

Where did you get that Quart Bocket!?

[@condor5635]

Cam Mims - all of the buckets can be bought at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Thanks for watching!

[@Cmimss]

condor5635 fasho man. Just bought the 12 Quart Bucket, now I can drain my tranny fluid/Oil Fluid proper this time out my Yukon denali

[@njsongwriter]

I forgot about those buckets at Home Depot and I worked there for 18½ years before I retired.

[@rashedsaif5268]

Very nice video , my car is lexus ES 350 2015 , it’s done 70k KM , when I should change the transmission fluid?

[@condor5635]

rashed saif - 44k miles is probably a good time to change it in my opinion. Do this process 2-3 times maybe drop pan as well.

[@hectorrodriguez9171]

How do i get my scan gauge to display TFT

[@condor5635]

Hector Rodriguez - watch the video at 8:35 Hector

[@hectorrodriguez9171]

got it @@condor5635

[@johnyon123]

@@condor5635 I wonder if the infrared thermometer will work fairly well? Great video!

[@condor5635]

John Yon - John it probably will but it will be off some due to the pan temperature being different than the fluid temperature by some degrees. The key would be trying to figure how much that delta is. Maybe next time I do this I will try to benchmark it. Thanks for watching

[@davidleroy9521]

Did you ever drop the pan and change the filter? Or just continued drain and fills? Thanks for posting this. Great info

[@davidleroy9521]

Well, I dropped the pan and changed the filter plus replaced all the fluid by intersecting the cooler line and pumped the old out while refilling with new. Just two 5 gallon buckets, one empty and one full of new fluid. Able to replace all and then adjust level using temp gauge.

[@hectorrodriguez9171]

Where to I plug in the scan gauge

[@condor5635]

Hector Rodriguez - it plugs into your OBD- II port under the dash. Thank for watching!

[@josephsmith7865]

You dont need a scan gauge just use a thermo gun it is just as accurate when you shoot it at the transmission pan when running. This was shown by another you tube video.

[@movietime111]

can you list part numbers, thanks!

[@condor5635]

BodhisattvaMahasattva - parts and numbers are shown in the video.

[@mrautoguy8419]

Great video! You said the car is leveled but it doesn't look leveled. Front looks higher than the back.

[@condor5635]

Mr AutoGuy - well that's not the case. Pan and pinch weld were both level. Thanks for watching.

[@mrautoguy8419]

@@condor5635 oh ok. Was a little confused from what I seen in the video.

[@TK-rj4of]

Aren’t you supposed to have the fluid changed at 80-100k miles? I currently got my car at the dealer and they said they wanted to check the fluid quality of the transmission fluid I told them no don’t do it I’m only at 60k I don’t want unexpected problems to occur my shifts are smooth so there’s no need. Your fluid was super clear there wasn’t a need to get it done so prematurely. It can go to 80k before needing a change.

[@condor5635]

You’re welcome to do what you want. I prefer to change out 2 quarts every 20-30,000 miles. I enjoy messing with my car and making sure that it’s running great. I never take it to the dealer and I’ve never had issues. I really don’t trust what the dealer would say especially regarding sealed transmissions. My car runs like the day I bought it

[@condor5635]

Sitting at a dealer it’s something I’ve never experienced to be honest!

[@TheBlooRayChannel]

Did you ever do a pan drop to replace the filter?

[@condor5635]

No but it is on my list. Maybe go to Toyota this weekend and get gasket and filter. 65k it is due for it. Thanks for another heads up!

[@williamhyatt5270]

I did drop the pan on mine and changed the filter at 105,000 miles. It looked good inside with a slight haze of aluminum and steel not trapped by the filter. This was the first change since it left the factory. No signs of leakage. I did not measure what came out. I put in 3 qts and started it. Drive then reverse then drive and reverse and park. I have a car lift so I lifted it up and the pan had begun to warn. Ambient temp of 80*. I pulled the plug and nothing came out. 4 drops maybe. I dropped the car down and shut it off. I added one more quart and started it again and put it into the gears then park and back up for the check. I pulled the plug and Very unscientifically got a little less than half of a 16 oz. water bottle. So, 128 oz went in and 6 oz out, I'd say that a pan drop and filter change will replace about 122 oz of fluid. NOTE: the pan drop is a thing. There is one bolt Drivers side, last one to the back before the curve in the pan that I had to release the transmission mount and use a pry bar to get the pan high enough off the frame rail to remove the bolt. It's the upper bolt. Live and learn. This is very doable by a home mechanic. .PSSSST, Beck Arnley for the filter.

[@mikebridgeline3275]

Excellent vedio. Thank you. N.J

[@MinhTran-nn6ky]

Is it process the same for 2018 highlander v6? Thank you

[@condor5635]

Minh Tran - yes it is. Thanks for watching!

[@jibrilewis9663]

Great video, thanks man! helped alot

[@condor5635]

jibri lewis glad it helped. Good luck with your change!

[@tbamagic]

between the compresser and the helicopter...gasp

[@condor5635]

Yeh sorry about that. Did you do your drain and fill?

[@michaelshin69]

Your neatness is great. Buy a box of gloves though.

[@condor5635]

Michael Shin - thanks for watching. I actually have a box of gloves that I wear much of the time when changing fluids. I need to be better at wearing them all the time. It's a bad habit!

[@michaelshin69]

condor5635 Just for ur well being my friend

[@pjfan173]

38 thumbs down by Toyota and Lexus dealers

[@megalodonjoker8946]

👍

[@empirebusiness5396]

How can i check the transmission oil leves

[@condor5635]

Did you watch the video it shows how

[@dm19609721]

This is not a sealed transmission....as you can see there is a pan and there is also a pan gasket. Good video none the less. Thanks

[@condor5635]

Dennis M - This is what is considered a sealed transmission since there is no dip stick

[@stevensevek6151]

So it's sealed because it doesn't leak...? I guess all transmissions are sealed when they are new as long as they don't leak. The correct words they want you to believe is "not serviceable by the owner". There should be a law against that.

[@imports4lifetoyotalexus98]

Dont listen to this guy say. Always used OEM transmission fluid from Toyota. Those synthetic fluid that you get from auto parts store or Walmart will ruins your transmission and lifespan of the transmission. It happens to mine. I got my transmission replaced twice until the Toyota dealershio told me to used only OEM fluid from Toyota. It is truth. I work for Toyota for 10 years now. I believe it. So I have learned my lesson from that. Always OEM stuff for your Toyota or Lexus.

[@condor5635]

WRXIMPREZARED2018 SUBARU - I respectfully disagree with you. I have used Redline - typically don’t see this in an auto parts store - in my 2004 Toyota for years and have never had a single issue. Granted OEM works and is probably best but I don’t agree with your statement that others will ruin your transmission for there are many other people who have used non-Toyota ATF without any issues whatsoever. You have to make sure that it’s the correct compatible version. Thanks for watching.

[@edwardcook7673]

I have used RAVENOL T-WS JWS3324 in my 2013 Camry with the AISIN 760 Transmission. According to the MSDS it is a PAO SYNTHETIC with full compliance with Aisin specs for this transmission. Manufactured in Germany. If Exxon-Mobil made a PAO Synthetic JWS3324 I would use it, but they refuse to manufacture or import it to North America. They provide the synthetic product in China. Only a non synthetic product is provided in the USA.

[@jacklabloom635]

Transmission shops use universal fluids. If the difference between Toyota transmission fluid and universal transmission fluids was critical, every manufacturer of universal transmission fluid claiming compatibility would have already had a class action lawsuit filed against them. Toyota has probably changed the chemical formula of WS since it was first introduced. Transmission fluid is not rocket science. Chemical engineers can determine the makeup of any transmission fluid. If the viscosities of two different fluids are similar enough, fresh universal fluid is better for longevity than leaving old OEM fluid in the transmission. Toyota wants to sell its fluid. That is why they do not allow certification of competing fluids. The safe play is to use OEM fluid, but using universal fluids that claim compatibility carries a low risk of transmission damage. The critical issue is changing the fluid. The stuff does wear out. Newer Synthetic transmission fluids are superior to older non-synthetic fluids. Synthetic fluids handle heat better. The key critical factor for automatic transmissions longevity is heat. As fluid temperature rises, the life of the transmission gets shorter.

[@TripleAstyle1]

@@condor5635 Redline is whats in my Corvettes rear axle now... considered high performance and a well know brand too.

[@condor5635]

Imports 4 Life Toyota Lexus - Believe what you want. That is a very contested argument that you have and it has been around forever. I’ve used Redline transmission fluid in my 15-year-old Toyota and I’ve never had issues. In my new 2016 Toyota I’m using OEM fluid. So yes you can use synthetic if it’s the right type in my experience. There are many many people who have had complete success without using OEM fluid. I have no idea what you did with your transmission so I can’t speak to it. Thanks for watching

[@chungwong8934]

I think you need to level your car before draining the fluid. Your car was tilting backward and you were draining more fluid out that you should.

[@condor5635]

Chung Wong no Chung. You are incorrect. I used a level on the pan. Believe me the car is level.

[@condor5635]

Chung - I also mention multiple times about checking level and where you can check level - both on the transmission pan itself (best) and the weld/pinch joint along the entire side of the vehicle. I prefer the pan using a level with a magnetic strip on it to hold it secure to the pan.

[@chungwong8934]

I missed that part since I skipped to the end. By the way, I also changed the filter inside the transmission and found it not difficult but very messy. I would recommend people changing the transmission filter at the same time.

[@condor5635]

Chung Wong - I will probably do the filter at 40-50,000 miles. It’s really not as necessary earlier than that if you change the fluid as I have done in this video. Great job by the way. I know there are a couple of bolts on the pan that are hard to get at since they are very close to the frame

[@condor5635]

@@chungwong8934 - I recently change the ATF gasket after 90,000 miles. I left the strainer alone although I could’ve changed it very easily. Looking through the hole it was extremely clean but I regularly change 2 quarts so it is very clean fluid for 90,000 miles. Can you believe Toyota wants $130 for that silly strainer ? Remember it is a strainer not a filter not the same thing as changing your engine oil filter. You really should never have to change your strainer if you maintain your oil.

[@markmunoz2210]

Talk to much just get to the point

[@condor5635]

Thanks Mark

[@mixalis11111]

this dude is insensitive! Why wouldn't he pause the recording while that (compressor?) noise came on? wtf? unbelievable

[@condor5635]

Here’s the smallest violin playing for you…. Stick with your day job.

[@mixalis11111]

@@condor5635 Why do you change the trans oil anyway? The manufacturer calls it LIFETIME. Oh you think they are wrong and you are right, eh? you are not only insensitive.... you are a true IDIOT!