3.0 Mercedes Sprinter Oil Cooler With Turbo On

[@paulomedina684]

Ok guys, I wanted to write a 'review' of this process as I hope to give other people the confidence to do this job. First, let me say that I am not a mechanic, I am fairly decent with tools, but def not a mechanic, and I was able to do this job. I watched this video serveral times, as well as the video with the 5 part process, both videos were really helpful, specially on the other video the guy shows all the bolts that are needed to come off in order to remove the turbo. I suggest that you watch both and jump back and forth when you need something. Using my phone on camera mode with the light on was a lifesaver! There are bolts that are so close to the firewall that are impossible to see, using the phone on camera mode I was able to get a better angle to see the bolts that needed to be removed. Make sure you have a telescopic magnet, you will drop bolts. When removing the turbo, make sure you use a 12 point socket and not a 6pt socket!! Look inside your socket and you should have 12 points, not 6. Six Pt sockets fit, but do not get a good drip. Also make sure when you are putting pressure on the bolts to remove, and your socket is 100% on the bolt, not even a bit crooked, you do not want to round out these bolts. I rounded out the bolt that holds the egr flex pipe, after hours of trying to remove it, and visiting the store to get more tools, I realized that I could cut the head of the bolt and the lower piece would come out with the turbo, so I did that and I had the turbo out then removed the shaft of the bolt by hand. There are two bolts that attach the turbo to the block, I dont think it is shown on this video. Also, Tone uses a LONG T45 to get the bolts out that hold the turbo to the pedestal, you can use a T45 1/2in drive socket with extension, it fits snug, but it fits. Make sure you drain your coolant enough before removing the pedestal. Also, replace your oil before you get the van started after the job, you could have some coolant go into the oil when doing this job, coolant and oil goes through the oil cooler and turbo pedestal, so when you remove it, there are openings for coolant and oil on top of the valley. Once I had the turbo out, I removed the pedestal, then I removed the fuel filter. I was able to remove and reattach the fancy clamps using a pair of needle nose vice grip pliers. Then it was time to remove the oil cooler. All the bolts were covered in dirt, oil and grime, make sure you have some brake cleaner to clean out the bolts so you can see them, and also in order for your socket to sit all the way into the bolt, again, you dont want to round out those bolts. As Tone mentioned, the front left gave me the most trouble, but it wasnt terrible, make sure you have a light that you can put in on top of the oil cooler so you can find the bolts, look in between the gaps for the bolt location, they are all visible, but you have to find them. I had a new oil cooler and I used it to get an idea of the location of each bolt. Once you have all 10 bolts of the oil cooler out, remove the oil cooler, my gaskets were stuck on the block, make sure you remove them. My advice is to start with the most difficult bolt of the oil cooler, you will have more patience at the begining than if you leave it to the end. Make sure you clean the valley, have a lot of those automotive blue paper towels, i had quite a bit of stuff that was not removed even after blowing some compressed air. Then reinstall the oil cooler. Reinstalling the oil cooler, it wasnt too terrible, I used the telescoping magnet to get the bolts in the holes and was even able to get the thread started by turning the magnet handle, just enough to pull the magnet out. Once you have all 10 bolts, get them tight. I wasnt able to get a torque wrench to work, so I got them tight enough. Not super tight, but as tight as they felt coming out. Putting the pedestal and turbo back in place. Putting the pedestal was simple enough, but you'll need the magnet to get those bolts in there. I ordered new bolts for the turbo/exhaust and egr pipes when I ordered my parts from FCP. Before you put your turbo back, make sure you look at new gaskets that go on the exhaust, if they have little holding legs, these have to be installed on the exhaust before the turbo, I did not pay attention and thought I could slide the new gaskets between the turbo pipe and the exhaust, but nope, I had to remove the turbo out once again. Reinstalling the flex egr pipe to the turbo was a major pita, I spent over two hours doing just this and had to remove it all when I couldnt fit the gaskets. The easiest way I found to get the bolt to align was to get a thin screwdriver from the top and insert it to the lower piece then use the vice grip to clamp down the top and bottom pieces, just enough to get the bolt and gasket in. Once you have the turbo pedestal on, turbo, exhaust connected, then I re-installed the fuel filter, I was able to reuse the fancy clamps. At the same time I replaced the Oil filter housing, which is prone for leaks. Here is a step by process: Remove fan and fan shroud (reversed thread 36mm) Remove Air filter housing and air intake pipes Remove turbo resonator and pipes (this would be a good time to replace the donut rubber piece) Drain coolant Remove turbo then turbo pedestal Remove fuel filter Remove Oil Cooler Do a little dance and put everything back together Then make sure you replace your oil and oil filter before starting, you could have coolant in the oil! This is the list of parts I got from FCP. Even though I got a replacement oil cooler with gaskets, I also ordered MB oil cooler gaskets. The MB gaskets were in fact a bit thicker than the non-MB. KIT-OM642 KTNSN-90784 MER-6421880580 Ok, if you were able to read through all of that, then you should be able to do this job. Good luck. Thank you Tone for sharing this hack!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Very nice feedback I appreciate it. Thank you for watching.

[@absurdmix5464]

Paulo, THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing this information with great details. We are here in San Diego doing this job right now ! With Love from California , thanks again!

[@the_first_resort940]

Hey tone, nice! I got a gear wrench 1/4 t30 swivel and long extension for this job, I’m a sprinter tech. This job pays 17 hours and I do it exactly how you do it without removing the intakes and it takes 3 at max. Ofcourse if the customer is In for an intakes job I always recommend changing the oil cooler seals then since you’re already in there but we’re not always that lucky

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Awesome thank you for the feedback. I appreciate you watching

[@bobbaxter952]

It's strange,i was just about to do this job on my 2006 merc cls 320 cdi,and after watching a few videos of the oil seal replacement all the time i heard a voice in my head saying,"surely someone has tried taking out the oil cooler without taking all this crap off!! So here you are!and here i am! :-)

[@OffgridVictory]

The old oil cooler gasket was purple on this video. Shouldn't it have been red? So was this a second gasket repair job on that Dodge Sprinter? Thanks

[@fuddworld6214]

Purple is the new upgraded seal, this job has been done before on this engine. Oil cooler may be warped.

[@ToolDemos]

I like the close-ups, great descriptions.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much Steve. I appreciate you watching

[@billbeckett1021]

Great vid! Love how you made the universal and torx bit combination to get the job done. The mark of a great technician!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much Bill. Yeah you have to improvise

[@danielcarlson8321]

Thank you for sharing your experience and tricks to save both the customer and shop extra parts and labor expenses!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

you are very welcome. thank you for watching. I appreciate it

[@hansknutson2327]

I would love to have those pliers . No parts store around here had them I used a pair of bullnose & Got under the sides of the clamps They popped loose

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

That is a bummer, here is a link to the pliers. amzn.to/4eVmxs4

[@absurdmix5464]

Hey Tone , thanks for creating the Amazon list page. I will order a few things using provided info. Thanks again

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much I appreciate that. Thanks for watching

[@atpresli]

I knew there had to be some type of shortcut ill try this and let you know if it works on my 2008 dodge sprinter Thanks , youve gained a lifetime subbie

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you and yes keep me posted. U can message me on my Instagram as well. Thanks for watching

[@mlieser1230]

You sure are the master of working in tight confines. The heat from the turbo bakes everything near it causing things to get brittle.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you, I appreciate that. Thank you for watching

[@juanmanuelperez6237]

I appreciate that you take the time to get this video, but I would love to know the name of the pliers to undo the hose clamps, thank You!!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much i appreciate it and thanks for watching. Here is a link to the pliers. amzn.to/3KVFcHG

[@the_first_resort940]

You can just use a fat pick to undo them, click-r pliers to reassemble

[@vallenatos26]

Oh boy I just saw a 5 part video on basically removing the entire engine lol. And here you come like Dale Earnhardt winning the checkered flag . Brother you are a master!!! I own a 2013 Mercedes sprinter with 350,000 thanks for the video

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much, I am happy you found the video. I actually have multiple videos on Sprinters. There is a Sprinter play list on my channel. Thank you for watching.

[@vallenatos26]

@@NutsandBoltswithTone thank you I will be watching

[@vallenatos26]

@@NutsandBoltswithTone you mentioned it was much easier to do in the Mercedes sprinter than the Dodge? Isn't it the same engine?

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

@it doesn't matter if it's the same, the Dodge has a one piece down pipe, Mercedes has a 2 piece so it's easier you can unbolt top of down pipe and you have more room

[@streetlightjon4247]

I've been dreading doing this job on my sprinter until now. This is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge on this! Liked and subscribed

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

I am happy you found my video and I hope the job goes well. Thank you for watching I appreciate you.

[@jasonservey7891]

Hello! Do gou have a video of removing the turbo without removing the downpipe that dont have a clamp near rhe top on a 2007 sprinter.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

@jasonservey7891 I just talked to someone yesterday about this. What I do is disconnect the exhaust at the bottom below the cat. I don't take it out of the vehicle but with the bottom disconnected you can move down pipe out of the way.

[@jasonservey7891]

@@NutsandBoltswithTone awesome man. Last two bolts I pulled in the dark last night. I'll keep pushing forward. Thanks for the reply!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

@@jasonservey7891 your welcome and good luck

[@jasonservey7891]

@@NutsandBoltswithTone got it all back together. Runs and drives but no turbo. Any ideas what I could have f'd up to make that not function?

[@FirstnameLastname-ni9uh]

I have a 2008 jeep grand cherokee with this engine is it still going to be same process or is there other shit that i need to do ? I would prefer not to remove too many things and this method looks promising.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

I have not done this on a Jeep sorry I am not sure if it works.

[@ChuongVo-op6ix]

Hi Very good video One question for you to help Are you add any silicone oil to the cooler gasket thanks very much.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

No silicone is needed. Thank you

[@danielgodin9579]

A shop did that for me. In the process they squeeze shut the CCV hose, i realized it something wrong a few 100s kms when it started smoking like crazy through the exhaust. I fixed it but The engine is building up pressure in the crank case alot now. Would it be possible that damage the valves seals and the boots is leaking in crank case that way? Or any other ideas? TIA

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Sorry to hear about your trouble. Are you sure you completely fixed the hose properly? It may still be partially collapsed inside. If the Pcv is stick close it can damage seals because of too much pressure in crankcase. The pressure has to go somewhere so it pushed it gaskets, through the rings etc. I would double check that hose. Message me on Instagram if you still have questions. Thanks for watching

[@spike1817]

Great video, thank you! What is the manual you are using on the computer and where can I get one?

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much. The manual is Alldata, we have it in the shop. You can buy a single vehicle subscription and have all the access for that one vehicle if you would like. Thank you for watching.

[@justice2191]

What did you use to clean the engine after removing the oil cooler

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Well if you are replacing oil cooler with the intakes on then it is hard to clean because of lack of room to get in there. I use super clean, an air nozzle and lots of patience.

[@nzdiagnostics2010]

Great Content as always! This stuff is gold, thanks for taking the time to share.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you very much I appreciate it. Thank you for watching.

[@timmatveyuk5911]

I’m getting ready to do this on my van, do you have to drain the coolant before you replace the seals? Or it is naturally empty when the engine isn’t running?

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

You need to drain the coolant first it is full of coolant and will make a very big mess. Thank you for watching, I appreciate it.

[@nikkoBcool]

proper way would be to take the intake manifolds off to a) clean the manifolds and flaps or b) clean the manifolds and delete the useless flaps. If you're that deep you might as well do it right!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Yes you are correct as far as gaining access to clean easier. However i the oil cooler is leaking the objective is to remove and reseal or replace oil cooler. This way is much faster and does not disturb the intake manifolds. I live in California so unfortunately we cannot remove the intake runners. Bottom line is whatever you feel is the best way to get the job done and that it is not leaking when you are done is all that matters.

[@nikkoBcool]

@@NutsandBoltswithTone ah I see, yeah if it works for you that's awesome, also deleting the flaps will in no way modify your emissions system so should be OK in Cali even if you screamed it out loud to the CHP

[@Alien_Tech_ICP]

You saved me sooo much headache

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Sweet so happy to hear and love helping. I appreciate you watching.

[@amiko7204]

Can u fix my

[@paulomedina684]

Ok to recap the process im about to do. Remove fan and shroud Drain coolant Remove turbo Remove turbo pedestal Remove fuel filter Remove oil cooler Did i miss anything? Any other trick to get to the bolts? I read comments of people using T27 and T30... which one is it? Thanks.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

You will also want to change oil when you are done. As far as the bolt size I am not sure, it has been a minute since I did one. I have actually been out of work since middle of November 16th from a really bad ankle injury. I have found a set of sockets that will really make the job easier. here is a link to the set of sockets from VIM Tools. Thank you for watching. Hit me up on Instagram if you need any help. www.penntoolco.com/VMUJHCT1040/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAlJKuBhAdEiwAnZb7lbfVm-D_EW1nDt73WSQ0PYnnBBh_KuJMnAOnPdRJA6sv3qENWeyafxoCdIYQAvD_BwE

[@paulomedina684]

@@NutsandBoltswithTone thank you! I wasnt able to find your page on IG, can you post it here. thanks.

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

@@paulomedina684 instagram.com/nuts_n_bolts_with_tone/

[@damonbenefield1541]

Hey Tone! Did you need to remove the radiator for this job?

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

No you do not need to. Thanks for watching. Message me on Instagram if you need any help.

[@johnnygogo1135]

What the reason for this

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Honestly it is just the gasket that fails, you can reseal it. Thank you for watching.

[@JOMaMa..]

Tone you have gained some subs 😎

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you yes I have. I appreciate ya watching.

[@MarkLaPointe-t3b]

Bravo!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

@@MarkLaPointe-t3b Thank you

[@pleassave]

Thank you!!!

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

You are welcome. Thanks for watching

[@repairvehicle]

Sometimes you have too think outside of box, electric tape. It works and have done it myself

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Yessir, thinking outside the box is a must. Thank you for watching.

[@repairyourpc1623]

Viewing

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Thank you

[@BFT88]

This is some hack shit, just use a t25 to disconnect the left bank runner linkage and take the manifolds out. Do it right

[@abd337]

Left as in driver side or left oriented from front of engine looking toward rear of vehicle, passenger side?

[@NutsandBoltswithTone]

Sure you can do it that way but you take a chance on the swirl valve and or actuator linkage breaking. But if it makes you feel better doing it that way u sure can do it that way. Thanks for watching.

[@the_first_resort940]

Rule is if it’s not broke don’t touch it and those intake runners don’t like being touched after that valleys been through heat cycles. Ask me how I know . My favorite one I’ve seen was the runners weren’t even there, a rodent nest caught fire in the valley and burned the linkages off lol!