300Tdi. Air in the diesel, but where from? A few tests Pt1

/ britrest
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
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[@davidwoods80]

Here's why I like your channel, Mike. Real garage, real car, real problems, real mechanic! So much of KZbin is phoney. This is riveting stuff! It reminds a lot of us of when we'd hang out with our fathers, or our friends who knew more than us, eager to go grab tools or mop up some mess, trying to be useful and hoping nobody would tell us to get lost while we learned how to wrench.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thank you David - this is exactly what I wanted to project - no nonsense, no drama, no music, no titles and you see and feel the issues I have This has been my first year of making KZbin and it has done quite well Just short of 750,000 views Almost 6,000 subscribers BUT 71,000 hours viewed - that's 8 years and 50 days! For a niche channel, I am very please Takes time but I think it is worth it All the best for Christmas! Mike

[@davidwoods80]

Thanks, Mike. You're not only making LR's better one at a time, you're making KZbin better, one video at a time. @@BritannicaRestorations

[@BritannicaRestorations]

There are a lot of prepared videos out there - not real world I think you will like my fixing LED bulb widow on Christmas day!

[@ianhellyer1473]

I installed a delphi fuel filter with sediment bowl and priming pump ( it used a plastic plunger ) in place of the standard filter. I saw bubbles in the fuel, which I assumed was air. After some detective work, I worked out the lift pump was faulty. The telltale was the plastic plunger became loose only when the engine was running, that is, a partial vacuum. Replaced the lift pump solved the bubble problem and some surging when driving up hills. I could not find any leaks in the faulty pump when tested under pressure or vacuum, so I assumed the bubbles were caused by cavitation of the fuel. The plunger makes priming the system easy and is an indicator as to whether the lift pump is working. A possible source of air bubbles is a porous sediment bowl near the back of the car.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I did read that there is now a 5mm spacer available between the pump and block Wonder if this will help? Note the air increased when I switched from the suction side of the pump to the delivery side - bad olive? Mike

[@ianhellyer1473]

@@BritannicaRestorations Hmm. I wonder if the olives should be changed whenever the couplings are undone, like your situation with an engine out and in. I saw some articles about the spacer and a mention of a replacement gasket ERR7339. It's green and thick but nothing like 5mm. Looks like some trial and error is needed with the gasket and something thicker and to measure the fuel pressure. Ian.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Normally the olives do not need changing and can be re used - however if they are over tightened they can dig into the tube of the pump and are a bugger to get off - and even if you do get them off you have to cut the tube back a bit or the olive will try and go back into the same place and you are no further forwards! As for the spacer - here is the link - good description www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-fuel-pump-spacer-2-5-200-300-TDi-Defender-Discovery-NEW-PRODUCT/303000066352?hash=item468c361930:g:-RYAAOSwZrhaXNLB:rk:11:pf:0

[@paulfowler2790]

Cracking bit of detective work Mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks! Mike

[@jonathandosser]

Have a great Christmas Mike - and maybe a bit of a break from land-rovering!?! Looking forward to many more of your brilliant videos in the New Year!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thank you Jonathan! I think a big break is needed Maybe something different next year Mike

[@scottthomasmartin]

Love it! But what if there's so much air in the lines it won't start? How do you bleed it then?

[@dragon4r4]

following this video with interest Mike, I suspect an air issue with my Td5. Will be interesting to see your results

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have an idea that the air is getting in to the line via the knackered pipe on the sender - full of rust! Please note - the 300Tdi with the VE pump is not affected by air - if it were and old 2.25 DPA pump, the slightest glance of air would stop the engine

[@silli1939]

No what u mean with the white paper was trying to get pullys right for a pto 35kw generator on my series it's on max power at 1500 rmp used a magnet system in end with a callabrated taco

[@BritannicaRestorations]

White marker does the same - but needs to be thick for the laser to pick up

[@RoverAddis]

hey mike .... your videos are quite informative...a quick question would the this air bubbles affect the needed pressure in the VE pump and cause a smoke and higher fuel consumption ? did the customer complain about consumption and power as well?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Someone had been playing with the IP before and turned up the fuel for more power - lots of black smoke and poor on fuel The fault on this was a bad connection on the tank, which caused the air issue

[@RoverAddis]

I have the same problem..the lift pump was bad and was changed which stopped flutters...now there is lots of black smoke and bad on fuel...starts good power is good pump serviced and new injectors...any ideas? May be the fuel is turned up on the injector pump

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes it sounds like the IP has been played with - problem is you are used to more power now and backing it off will give you less power/smoke but more economyMaybe it was adjusted to make up for the bad lift pump?Mike

[@RoverAddis]

@@BritannicaRestorations I will decrease the fuel and see what happens and let you knw...as always your video makes a Landrover owner's life easier....cheers!

[@stephenwagg9683]

Hi Mike, what was the final solution to this issue, I see it's listed as part one, don't see part two, sorry if I am just being dozy!! Great work by the way, I am interested as I am having issues with lack of power on my 300tdi but only when I am towing?? when driving the car normally, everything good. I do suspect a charge issue under load. Early days of investigations for me!!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sorry Stephen - this is what happens when you hold videos for publishing Anyway it was a the pipe connection on the tank that was not tight Mike

[@stephenwagg9683]

Ah! Thanks Mike, blimey bet it took a while to get to that conclusion!@@BritannicaRestorations

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Pressurized the fuel tank with a few lbs of air and there was a few bubbles coming out of the connection Mike

[@FPVsean]

Quick question Mike, have you replaced many speedo cables on deafners? Any tips on how to do them? Looking them up seems a bit vague, and no videos either

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have yet to cover this, but it is quite straight forwards - you first have to get the cable off the back of the transfer box (10mm socket) and then get the instrument cowl off - by taking off the the transfer case end first- it will allow you to pull the cowl further forwards so you can get to the back of the speedo - you pinch the white connector where there are some vertical 'grips' on the plastic and pull it off When replacing make sure there are no sharp bends and it is not close to the exhaust No special tools needed - if you have a 300Tdi defender I find it easy to take off the steering wheel for more access Mike

[@FPVsean]

@@BritannicaRestorations No fear of access, I have the dash fully stripped out, just the instrument cluster panel is in it right now, is it really just a matter of fishing the cable through? I'll be tackling it over the christmas break provided the weather keeps off. Have a good holiday mate! Sean.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sean - if you are replacing the cable, then a new one comes with grommet that passes through the bulkhead, so no need to fight with it Sometimes they are a mess about to get through the bulkhead - I sometimes tape a bit of welding rod or stiff wire to the cable to make it easier to feed from the engine bay through the bulkhead Yes time to lay down the tools for a while for the duration - bit I have some videos for you guys to watch while you are getting through the turkey sandwiches! Stay safe and have a great Christmas! Mike

[@FPVsean]

@@BritannicaRestorations good stuff mate, you'll hate to know that eventually I'll take the dash out fully again to get it covered in tan leather :P but in comparison to your customer's csw I have no rot whatsoever in all the likely places. Had bulkhead rust beneath the windscreen but that's all been professionally done now. Will be deploying your rain gutter trick on either side of the bonnet infront of the bulkhead on Friday at a mate's workshop to stop water gushing over the footwells, happy holidays mate!

[@christianknecht1845]

Great Video Mike. Do you have some tips for the same problem but for the TD5? ;-) Somewhere i'm getting air in the fuel. Actually i solved the problem by bypassing the fuelfilter with the return line directly into the fueltank...