300Tdi fuel pump issues (Again!)

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This video is produced for entertainment purposes only and Britannica Restorations nor Michael Wesson and/or guests featured in this video shall not, in any way or measure, be held accountable or responsible for any damages related to attempted repairs as pictured in this video.
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[@je6017]

The leak test using your finger is a great tip! Thanks again Mike!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You're welcome!

[@jamescaron6465]

You do a lot of actual engineering on these crazy contraptions. You really impress me with your ingenuity

[@matthewrobinson4784]

Already on it 👍

[@clearout5032]

My new pump leaked on 1st Start up from The diaphragm, shocking build quality & new one in post will test with that method thanks!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad it helped

[@ASelman]

Good demo as always, but I was thinking that differnt manufacturer tolerences might have slightly different lever arm geometry. It might be possible to make up a jig to show the pump action and also so folks can test their pumps, and confirm the required spacer thickness before the new replacement pump is fitted. It'd be great if someone made a maintainable pump that only needed servicing..

[@iceman9678]

The gaskets should come in sets of 3! Dang it!

[@AnthonyTeasdale]

I got a spacer for mine, however I believe mine is half the thickness of yours at 2mm. So 4mm overall. Appears to be working well.

[@vic6820]

That's what happened on my 200, diaphragm pumctured, and the sump was full of diesel, the rocker shaft snapped like a stick of Blackpool rock, during a long drive. It was a costly flatbed job.

[@SteveLlewellynbgr]

Thanks Mike. 👍

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Any time!

[@kabaottoemulsion1869]

Thanks for the video! 3mm gap is the key! I can I guess have 2 gaskets and one 1mm spacer.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes you can!

[@tommepham2267]

I found the Delphi pump worked ok with the 5mm Aluminium spacer and two gaskets. I swapped it for 3 gaskets but it didn’t seem to make a lot of difference to fuel delivery. I had a 200tdi with a Delphi pump snap the connecting Rod earlier this year, I used the spare spacer on that and it’s been ok since. Flange must be the same between the 200 and 300

[@lukeevans9698]

Thanks!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thank you!

[@lukeevans9698]

Mike, have you noticed any longevity differences between Genuine/OEM/Denso lift pumps and Chinese pumps (i.e., Britpart)? Just looking at them, there is a significant difference, but I’m not sure how that translates to longevity.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

On the original 300Tdi out of the factory, the pumps seemed to work fine, but replacements seem to be an issue - they do work, but not with the longevity as the original. I just checked with LR, and they are out of stock of genuine pumps (A/C) £283.68 inc. VAT I like the Delphi pumps as you can clean out the filter - but they work better with more gaskets

[@LleshelwinBeteszki-sc5dt]

In my opinion, they need to get diesel through a pre filter prior to the Bosch ve. They get full of crud also

[@jonbuckley1495]

Given how my original is playing up at 150k miles, dont drive it for a week and the fuel drains back to the tank, have to pump throttle a few times on first start

[@rossco88]

Did you do an electric pump conversion?? I can remember seeing one video you did on it but can't remember how it turned out.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Was fine - still running

[@vincea1401]

Hi, so no change from thé first vid, 3 gasket, that was already thé deal ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes it was

[@stephenwhite5057]

Is there a split linkage in that style pump?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Can you explain more?

[@kinnellian]

Hmm, just wondering what the difference between the 200 & 300 pumps are? They're meant to be seperate part No's [ERR5057] v [ETC7869/ STC1190] Visually, they can seem pretty identical (I've never thought to check thickness of flange/ throw of the arm with a gauge) so I'm wondering if people are buying, or being sent the wrong ones - that's if there is a difference anyway. I'd imagine the block casting & thickness is different between 200/300 but it can't be a lot.. Logic suggest, if it's a mixup - the 200's must be slightly longer lever (or maybe thinner flange) as anecdotally, it does seem to be 300's which have more issues - I've certainly not had bother bar a couple of leaky diaphrams in my 200 *Edit - had a check online and some appear different flanges visually, dunno about the length of the arm. Hmm. seen 200 pumps from some suppliers including a spacer - I've never had one supplied with any 200 pump, and never fitted one either - something funny going on - I'm sure manufacturers, and suppliers are mixing up 200/ 300 pumps for shipping.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The 200 pump and the 300 pumps are different. The 200 has an adaptor plate that goes on the block with 6 bolts On the 300, that place on the block was taken up by the vac pump, so they shoved the fuel pump to the right and modified the casting Although they look similar, the shape of the flange that mounts to the block is different. You cannot use a 300 gasket on a 200 pump and vice versa

[@kinnellian]

@@BritannicaRestorations Good grief, all these years and I never paid them much attention. How the hell I've always got them working I don't know...autopilot when fitting, or something. my head is now mince! I just rebuilt a 200 and I'll swear the Delphi pump was straight to the block, I didn't sleep last night! No wait - just looked through my rebuild foties - oh man, that scares me, how much else do I fit on autopilot!? 😂😂

[@samuelasquith1151]

Hi mate, when stripping the injector pump what bits do I need to make sure go back the same for it to run right? Me mum tried to fix a leak on the throttle spindle not realising the top of the pump had to come off and not marking anything, she basically had off the throttle linkage and spring ect so that you could see the shaft, now it will only start with the accelerator flat on the floor and will only just go above idle at that. It’s a 300tdi, I’m going to take it apart to replace the seal and stop the leak as it is bad but I’m not sure if that’s the cause of it not revving, it did run fine beforehand. And if they did need to back the same way is tuning it something that’s easily done? Thanks in advance for any help

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Mate - you need to take it to a specialist - everything will be undone - I cannot tell you here how to put it right as I have no idea what had been done!

[@samuelasquith1151]

@@BritannicaRestorations no worries, that’s all I needed to know, if I put a whole other pump on it’ll work I assume? To be honest I’ve almost had it running properly today but it’s stressful. I know now that it’s not worth trying to get it right though, I’ll send it to a specialist aha. Thanks a lot for your response

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Pumps are really tricky things to get right when assembling

[@matthewrobinson4784]

Hi I have a 200tdi , I am struggling to start it , I have fuel at the injectors and have bled as much air in it as possible. The lift pump does prime but watching this video I am wondering if the pump is not giving enough fuel pressure. Is this a likely issue

[@BritannicaRestorations]

If you have fuel at the tip of the injectors, then time to look at the timing/compression/valves etc

[@matthewrobinson4784]

Ok . It’s a rebuilt engine , with new piston rings ,seals etc all the way through .There’s definitely compression, I have set the timing using flywheel locking pin and FIP with the locking pin, the cam shaft alignment mark is spot of . I have taken the rocker shaft off and checked the push rods , everything seems good . I was hoping as the lift pump hardly primes, had the sick the fuel through and doesn’t seem to hold a vacuum that it’s low fuel pressure causing the starting fault . Sorry for the long reply Thanks

[@BritannicaRestorations]

BUT have you replaced the timing belt? Have you got the notch for the timing pin in the correct slot in the flywheel? There are two slots! The crank should be at top dead centre (the crank pulley keyway will be at 12 o'clock) Check that!

[@matthewrobinson4784]

Yes new belt and tensioner pulley . The flywheel pin was in the key way on the front of the crankshaft was at 12 . I put the timing case cover and crank pulley back on to check the tdc mark on the pulley was aligned with the rib on the cover plate . I tried a small squirt of easy start and it fire for a split second Thanks for your time

[@BritannicaRestorations]

GOOD ! Fires on easy start means there is a fuel problem Check the banjo bolts on the injector pump = the front is the feed to the pump and the rear is a RESTRICTED return to the tank They are the same size and thread It is common to have the bolts the wrong way round after a rebuild The rear should have some writing on the head Check this and get back to me

[@thechod]

What about fitting electric lift pumps?

[@gshort4707]

I'm not sure what the safety issues are around electric pumps. I think there are rules about crash detection so in an accident, if the engine has stopped running then fuel delivery should be stopped to reduce the fire risk. I know modern cars can be a pain to start after changing fuel tanks as they keep cutting the fuel supply because the engine's not stated straight away - catch 22.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You can simply add an inertia switch in power feed line WQT100030L are cheap and easy to fit

[@thechod]

Like td5 mike?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

WQT100030L - takes 2 connection Econoseal plugs - common on Discos and Defenders