Will This Racing Two-Stroke Engine Start After 2.5 Years Sitting?!? T1 : Part4

[@scooterbomb2152]

Good to have the channel back. Big inspiration for me doing my channel.. Keep up the great work.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks! Your stuff has popped up for me and what I've seen looks good. You keep it up as well! I dig the name and logo too.

[@scooterbomb2152]

@@49ccscoot much appreciated 🙏

[@kwcslvr1]

I really appreciate the shimming tips and seeing your successful implementation. Genius! Your workspace is so clean and organised. Great Job!

[@49ccscoot]

After the "garage makeover" a bit ago, I've tried hard to keep it in good shape. Largely because it's a lot of work it get it back to nice.

[@Rexxy_90]

Nice to have you back, been a bit too few videos lately from you! I also renovate mopeds on my channel, mix of scooter and old mopeds. But in Swedish, with bad english autosubtitle haha

[@marat9353]

Давай ссылку на канал.

[@mikevos7163]

Just a tip about plastic welding from someone who holds a qualification in it, always sand the material that is to be welded before trying to melt new material onto the old, this removes the oxidization and improves the bond and quality of the weld.

[@49ccscoot]

Thank you. Just a heads up, there will be more improper repairs in a future video. They're already done so I'm not ignoring advice.

[@markm1324]

for broken plastics next time i recommend Q-bond. its a powder + adhesive type plastic weld and works great. just roughen up the surfaces for good bond, sprinkle powder and drop a few drops of solvent.

[@just4kicks950]

So cool to see new scoot vids. I bought piaggio typhoon for a winter project 🎬🛵🫡.

[@49ccscoot]

Very nice! Good luck with the project.

[@maxbrown853]

Welcome back again, there are feeler gage strips of all sizes made to cut, it is on a roll, I use it for measuring clearance between lipseal and shaft for yachts but i also use it for the same reason as you use the soda can for. Thought it might come in handy to know for you.

[@TEAMVISKAT81]

the tpr 86cc is 20hp cylinder kit, my old yamaha aerox made 19,58hp on a dyno her in denmark :) is no rc one 94cc but a god cylinderkit

[@49ccscoot]

I really liked it. Riding the RC-One kind of changes everything though. LOL

[@Smallbore2wheels]

It lives!

[@jespervalbjrn6932]

hey brent, a tip for the belt going down in the pack pulley before the clutch engages(high end 70cc)😄

[@Lofirider]

Man!! Always empressed with your passion and dedication. Sold my tpr few years back(watch lots of your videos on that). Now got indianscoutbobber. But looking into getting another one of this next summer 😅

[@49ccscoot]

How do you like the Scout? My friend has been looking at them for a while now. Looks like a really nice cruiser with some power so it's fun too and the prices for some barely used stuff locally have been good.

[@Lofirider]

@@49ccscoot cant complain!! I have the 60 but after putting performance intake and retune, it is almost comparable to regular scout. It's quite a bike, looks is a headturner imo.

[@2taktfriseur]

Cool video, nice to see you work on the 2 strokes again an making all clean

[@johncoscia5258]

I don't bother with plastic welds, especially if you're going to paint a panel. Fiberglass never cracks and you have lots of time before it sets. It's messy but excellent. Also the best affordable paint can that won't be affected by petrol is epoxy enamel anti rust. A long time to dry but it's sets harder than everything except for very expensive 2 pack

[@49ccscoot]

I've actually got some of that 2 part clear here that I was going to use on another project, but I've done a lot of favors for a painter so I'm hoping to get my return favor for a low cost pro job.

[@RIMHQ-YT]

My man you look better than ever and i love messing around with projects similar like yours and at this time im stuck with some issue on a scooter i am fixing for my better half. You see its a Aprilia Leonardo 125cc from 1998. Inside the CVT i can see it stamped Rotax on it. The issues is that i think my CVT is trash and ive tried different belt, different rollers even the weird shaped one and also i tried different stiffer torque spring also. But im just always stuck at this issue: When i start the bike cold and take off it is quick and uses the range of CVT perfect. But as soon as it heats up and i am taking of or slowing down before a cross road and give throttle again it won't "shift" but it just keeps the CVT at a faster place making the engine just BOOOOOOOOOG down and so so slooooow. And also, i was riding it for a longer trip a few miles and i hit this uphill that made me go slooooow and after i had reached the top of this approximate 1 mile uphill suddenly my bike started smoking as hell and I immideately pulled over and the plastic oil filler cap wich has a gauge also had MELTED!! i was like how??? I had even because i thought the bike ran to hot removed the thermostat, i also had run the fan to a seperate switch so it was always running and i had taken off the front cover exposing the radiator as much as possible. Still and i have never heard anyone experience this and im 49. Had a plastic cap MELT. it has stock exhaust. It's slooooow until it hits about 55-60 kmh and then boom suddenly it starts to go and the power is immideately there. But when warm between 0 and 55 kmh... Well.. I am really stuck here. Dont know where to start next. The carburetor is clean, the bike starts immideately and idles and runs great but the CVT is seemingly stuck or has some issue. My problem is that the bike is old. And im not that much into scooters and im at a place like i cant afford to just try buying the clutch housing where it can be moved in and out you now? So maybe you can help me or even gift me a old part you have in a pile of rubble in a corner or something that could help me get past this issue. The scooter is stock and all that but i really would appreciate any help you may be able to provide. Please. Many thanks from Norway. Toby. Ps. If you wanna see the latest stuff ive made just push the red icon. Thank you

[@49ccscoot]

Since you've already tried different springs and weights in the CVT, it makes me wonder if it's carburetor tuning. At least to some degree. Could be the actual carb tune or maybe some sort of airbox or intake issue. Maybe it's just overheating and causing all of this. Maybe the carb or CVT is making it overheat or at least making it worse. If the CVT is actually stuck, then it should feel like you leave a vehicle in one gear and accelerate. If you haven't already, take the torque driver apart and inspect it carefully and regrease if needed.

[@millymoo6575]

Very cool!

[@DoRC]

Plastic welding works a lot better when you use the same material as a filler. The parts you were working on are probably ABS and the zip ties are nylon. Those two don't really mix very well. Better would be to shave some strips off of an inconspicuous area from the part you're actually working on and use that as filler.

[@49ccscoot]

Makes sense. I think I'll have more in the next video so be prepared to see me do it wrong again. LOL

[@DoRC]

@@49ccscoot in my experience nylon and ABS aren't the worst combination but it definitely is always best to use the actual parent material when you can.

[@danielwilliams4473]

I'm in OC right now at the car show and just witnessed someone back into your white Ford F150 on the corner of 125st/Jamaica. If you want, get ahold of me.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks again for going above and beyond to get in touch!

[@alexmerkeezy]

Dude you need to bring these things to the track. Come to MopedGP East and come kick our butts!

[@49ccscoot]

I would get smoked and cause a wreck. Never been on a track and not a great rider. I do OK messing around on road, but reality of being a 300lb average rider would set in quick I think when on track with people that know what they're doing. LOL Event looks cool. Nice to see some scooter racing in The States!

[@alexmerkeezy]

@@49ccscoot You would definitely not get smoked and you would not cause a wreck (even if you did get smoked) lol. I thought the same too. The track is great because you can learn/improve without worrying about cars, gravel, leaves, oil etc. Its far more controlled than the street. And we all have no idea what we are doing, we're just having fun. There are seasoned veterans and first timers all just having a blast doing loops. I thought the same way but the first time you get out there for open practice, you get addicted to the fun! You can run a race at your pace, be competitive or not, doesn't matter. And none of us are on racing workout regimens ha!

[@梅木拓]

Good

[@calculus3661]

I forgot to mention this on the other video but replica minarelli horizontal have kind of a common fault with the starter gear/clutch in the variator which your starter uses to start the scooter. They will get worn and just spin freely instead of engaging. The worst part is when you buy a genuine starter clutch (for the aerox) its thickness is off just by a little bit and wont engage either. Never managed to get a proper starter clutch but didn't bother anyway since the kick start was so reliable and my battery is dead anyway.

[@49ccscoot]

I never had much trouble with them, but I have used over range kits for so long now that I haven't had an e-start two-stroke for many years. Only really bad part of that is that if the kickstart fails you're out of luck.

[@manueltrejo9423]

Looking I like speedometer

[@bravo1412]

💪💪💪

[@Lucas-vu2cr]

Do you still have plans for your Tmax with mods? Love the vids always!

[@49ccscoot]

I'm basically just hoping to ride it at this point. Beyond here, it gets expensive for smaller gains and it's supposed to be the bike that always runs and goes anywhere.

[@Lucas-vu2cr]

@@49ccscoot very understandable! What might be nice to try for you are some differant velocity stacks, they can deliver quite a good gain. Many tuners in Italy make these, like for example FD motodispasquale.

[@paulbudford]

That exhaust isn't rusty. Try riding through a winter in the uk. Yasuni exhausts rust before your eyes. Lol

[@seanc.3168]

The unsupported (internally) primary shaft is such an annoying flaw on these engines.

[@49ccscoot]

The worst (and kind of best I guess) part is that the cases I've had have all been machined for a bearing behind the shaft. They just don't bother to put the nub on the shaft or the bearing in place. Saving a few bucks again.

[@michaelbrinks8089]

The harbor ⚓ freight aluminum rods just need a clean stainless wire brush. Then start to "weld" immediately after scratching away the oxidation layer. With the SS wire brush. I did a strength test & the aluminum broke broke before the weld did. I'm curious about the flux method. I'm guessing the flux provided, eats away the top oxidation layer.

[@49ccscoot]

Good info. Thanks. When I looked up the Muggy Weld today (I bought mine probably a decade ago) and saw the current price I don't know if I'd buy it TBH. I could take the radiator to the welder down the road and probably get it repaired by a pro for less than their small kit costs on this job... but I do have plenty of it to fix more stuff. This was supposed to be good at joining dissimilar metals. I bought it because I wanted a fitting that I could only find in brass put into an aluminum part. Not sure if the regular aluminum rods are good for that.

[@michaelbrinks8089]

@@49ccscoot I was surprised that it actually bonded broken "pot metal" back together. I had a broken Yamaha foot peg pot metal bracket & it welded it back together. But looked ugly AF....Which reminds me to lookup what metal, pot metal is exactly....Sadly the rods can't do large welds like normal welding. But does work great for many small broken parts. Or to make/weld together a small diy aluminum carburetor intake. I used the al rods to weld the aluminum tube to the flat mount piece. Then a little JB weld to make any tiny air leaks were filled in.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

The thing about melting plastic to make something stronger, you can do that much more simply and even stronger if you do it like this.... Use an old glue gun, you know the ones that are used to heat up glue sticks so that the glue will flow, and instead of using these glue sticks in the glue gun, you use the black strips in the glue gun instead, if you do that, it will also be a lot nicer when you let the stippled plastic flow through the glue gun

[@49ccscoot]

Didn't know they made anything other than standard glue sticks! Is is the paintless dent repair sticks that you're talking about? Or do you mean to just feed zip ties or maybe even ABS rod?

[@ArceBiz]

👍👍👍

[@llamapaloooza7752]

Nice 🛵

[@Dhdg-tu6hq]

you couldve just bought a bolton taillight for a yamaha aerox

[@49ccscoot]

I forgot about that at the time. Honestly, probably would have went with what I have anyway this time around. I have used some different LED assemblies on my scoots and some of them don't hold up well. Most disappointing was one from a sport bike that I assumed would be high quality. It failed very quickly due to vibration. The ATV light is cheap on AliExpress if I do need to replace it at some point. Obviously the best thing would be vibration isolation for any light.

[@Dhdg-tu6hq]

@@49ccscoot man, you have to do a full stock rebuild series on a 1e40qmb engine, i have one and i cant get it to run, can you do a video on that too?

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

He he You have improved on that point by reminding yourself that the gearbox must be filled with oil again if the old one is drained... he he he he (funny Joke)