50A Welding Outlet and Breaker Install

240V 50A outlet and breaker wiring and install for your larger welders. I'll show you what parts to buy, how to properly wire and ground your outlet box and also how to wire in you 50A breaker

[@kenknight4560]

Best to the point install that I have seen. Well Done!

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks!

[@TMac473]

Definitely not an electrician.

[@jimsimon738]

Very nice for a novice like me. Thanks for the simplicity and camera shots.

[@johndavies2949]

So for all you diy guys. If you're putting power to an out building like a shed or garage or whatever fed from the power in your house, be sure if you want to put in a small panel to pull hot conductors ( the ones that will feed electricity to the panel), 1 neutral(the white wire), and one bare or green wire from your existing panel. The white wire at your new panel should be isolated from your green wire.Most panels you buy Do Not come with a separate ground buss. They are sold separately. Each manufacturer has his own for his panel. GE, Home Line, Square D, etc. At Home Depot they have them on a peg board In the same location as the panels and breakers. I learned the hard way. It tells you on the box the panel comes in that ground bar not included. It's the fine print nobody reads.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

That is correct for a sub panel. This is not, its a main panel fed directly from a meter

[@bojack2740]

Excellent and clear presentation. Thank you

[@erniebrockwell8756]

Excellent video. Straight to the point. Thanks!

[@marksalamack6133]

Great instructions and demonstration👍

[@biounlimited]

Appreciate the straightforward info!!!

[@catherineharris4746]

Simply OUTSTANDING!👍👍👍👍

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks!

[@johndavies2949]

You guys are right. This guy should have used a 4 wire receptacle. Then he'd know where the neutral and ground wire are attached. In addition the only place the ground wire and neutral wire connect to the same buss bar is at the service disconnect at the meter base.

[@banjax01]

Tremendous job. Clear and concise. Thanks!

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johndavies2949]

And on alot of these panels, home line and square d the neutral busses may or may not be bonded with a green screw to the metal of the panel box. Most times the screw will be included in the package with the cover screw. Only use this screw when using this panel as service equipment. Most of these panels have two neutral bars , one on each side and they are connected together with factory busses. That's why you gotta buy your own ground bar.

[@jayinmi3706]

Several of the videos I've watched pointed out that in some cases you connect ground and neutral to the same buss, and others they are separated. I think it depends on if it's an attached garage or not. Good video, this is something I plan on in the near future.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Sub panels need to have their own separate bar. This is a main, hence why my grounds and nuetral are on the same bar

[@InboundG]

@@appalachiandiy2415so I’m doing this with my main breaker, would I wire it the same or get 6/2 cable with one less conductor? Because with that it’s just 2 hots and a ground no need for a 4th wire. Does it change if I use a plastic casing instead of metal??

[@abrahamvaro5482]

Very nice video ,thanks!!!

[@lawman5511]

Best video I’ve seen yet on this topic. I need to redo mine with conduit.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks

[@speedwayman100]

I see you oriented the plug upside down like mine was installed prior to moving in.

[@catdeere6474]

I’m a total do it your selfer. U just saved me $1100 on a quote I received to put an 220v 50a for our welder directly under the panel. Thank you

[@court2379]

That is robbery. BTW putting the ground on the neutral bar is generally unsafe. I don't know why he showed that without mentioning anything. That would only be allowed in the main panel (meter panel). The sub panels like this one the ground and neutral should be separate. Since a welder only requires three wires and he has four he is using the larger neutral wire as the ground. It would need to be marked green at the ends because of the repurposing. I would still probably buy the four wire cable because you might want to install a different outlet type there someday that needs the neutral wire, but you really only need the three wire cable. Read the post by Monte Clark. He went thru all the code violations with this install. There about a dozen. Most are technicalities, but the ground one is a safety issue. It will put power on your ground wire from other devices connected to that neutral busbar. Then the chassis of your welder will be hot. Usually not full 120V because the neutral is grounded at the meter panel, but power takes the path of least resistance, and you will be part of that if you touch the welder. Some flowing to the ground, and some flowing thru you.

[@alandavis4885]

Cheaper than a burial, or total loss due to fire because of all the NEC Code violations here ... 😉

[@court2379]

@@alandavis4885 It has a breaker of the correct size. I don't see a fire hazard. But getting shocked while using the welder is quite likely. They probably won't be grounded well enough to kill them, but may hurt a bit. I have experienced live ground equipment before and could only tell when I got metal slivers (machine shop). When the metal that had punctured the skin touched the machine it would hurt.

[@alandavis4885]

@@court2379the question is, how reliable is that breaker in the event of a ground fault on a subpanel who's neutral and ground is bonded? With multiple paths for fault current to find its source, who can say it even will. If you can live with "probably", good luck to ya.

[@court2379]

@@alandavis4885 Well if it was a GFCI breaker I would guess it would trip regularly or not work at all. For a regular breaker it won't care as all it is influenced by is the current and the heat it generates.

[@mckwilly]

great vid, I'm doing this real soon 👍

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Nice! What welder are you going to hook up?

[@mckwilly]

@@appalachiandiy2415 picked a Chicago Tools at a spring sale, the tank and cart covered the cost 👍

[@appalachiandiy2415]

@@mckwilly Nice!

[@testchannel1834]

great video

[@gruntythegreat3335]

Only critique i would give here is to NEVER install the switch before wiring up the outlet. Wire the outlet, THEN install the breaker switch. This mitigates any possibility of danger. And dont wire the breaker switch while its on the breaker. Other than that, great video, really informative !

[@andrewstanton5846]

Is there a safe order in which to connect each wire?

[@gruntythegreat3335]

@andrewstanton5846 technically yes, but your best bet is always to wire the entire plug, connect the hot wires to the breaker switch, then connect the grounds to the box, then click in the breaker. Makes it so you are never dealing with a live plug

[@S01539738]

Compared to the other videos with similar description this one likely lays it out a little better, well done

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks!

[@shorrissmith5770]

Great video

[@teammatzkeadventures29]

great job

[@walterashley149]

Getting ready to run this exact thing to detached shed, along with 120V. Going to have to put conduit into the ground for 20', so it will be glued. Despite the naysayers on this or that or the other... Does it work within parameters? Good! Instant Subscription!

[@alexwilcox1976]

Dude great video! Good content, footage, and narration.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thank you!

[@ew6507]

Super helpful!!

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks!

[@rayyoudontneedtoknow6887]

I have been an electrician for over 20 years and one thing that I will point out which there are several but the one I particularly you never hook up a ground to your neutral bus where that is only allowed on the main service coming into the house. Other than that all other panels must have a separate ground in the panel which leads to number 2, the bear ground wire should also be tied into your green ground wire which should be separate in the electrical panel. Your neutral and ground must be separated. It's against electrical code to tie the neutral and ground on the same bus is only allowed on the main service coming into the house and as a final note what you're calling condo is gray PVC which is not secured to either box or panel without a locking not the bushing is only protects the wire going into the plastic PVC. That's all it for

[@appalachiandiy2415]

This is a main panel, not a sub panel. Are you saying to use a locking nut then the bushing on top?

[@rayyoudontneedtoknow6887]

@@appalachiandiy2415 . The locking that is to secure the connector to the electrical panel and to the outlet box says you are using PVC. It is not necessary to use the bushing but it won't hurt if this is truly a main panel of power from the street would be coming to that. I don't see that if I am wrong. I'm sorry

[@court2379]

@@appalachiandiy2415 Where does your power connect from the power company? The meter panel counts as the main panel. The only situation I can think of that would not be true is if the meter was a standalone unit without a panel. You would still have a disconnect switch though, and if that is where the ground attaches it might count as the main panel. Not sure on that setup though. Regardless most people won't have this setup and teaching them to do that without mentioning the exception could get someone hurt.

[@jimmarchman]

Thanks for the straightforward lesson. Well done.

[@guitardaddy6]

Read the comments. This is bad info. Not electrician approved..

[@jimmarchman]

@@guitardaddy6 I was referring to the style and craft of the video.

[@jimmarchman]

Thanks.@@guitardaddy6

[@Sgt.k]

Well done.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks

[@johndavies2949]

The orientation of the round hole on the receptacle is determined by where the round pin on the power cord is located.

[@eikodunn]

👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾So just snapping the 50 amp circuit breaker in the panel gives you the rated amperage/voltage? I thought the input would need to be wired too. Maybe I’m thinking of a 50 year old panel.

[@johndavies2949]

Had this panel been approved for exterior installation then the main breaker in the panel would serve as the service disconnect. All the branch circuits would go through the wall into the back of the panel then to to various branch circuit breakers.

[@johndavies2949]

I know that most authorities having jusidiction and fire departments want the electrical disconnect on the outside of the building. So they can turn off power in case of fire. But if the disconnect is locked closed for vandal purposes most fire trucks have bolt cutters to cut off any locks. There are some main disconnects on switch gear no one can get at unless they have a key for the lock that is incorporated in the handle or they break the handle to get at the disconnect.

[@johndavies2949]

If this is a garage as you say, all garages need all receptacles or receptacle circuits protected by GFCI. Both 120 volt and 2 pole 240 volt. You can buy a 240 volt 2 pole breaker that is GFCI. They sell them all the time for spas and hot tubs. The 120 v single pole GFCI breakers are kind of pricey. To save money you can use a regular breaker and feed the first receptacle making sure that receptacle is a GFCI. Then wire that receptacle to provide downstream protection to the receptacles that follow. I don't think you can get a 4 wire 50 amp receptacle with built in GFCI protection, so you'll have to buy a 2 pole 50 amp GFI breaker. Hold your breath when you see the price of that breaker.

[@iflytango]

Easier done then said, nice that there was no other breakers or wires in the main panel so you could see just the work your showing

[@appalachiandiy2415]

That is true. Its nice not having a full panel

[@alandavis4885]

@@appalachiandiy2415address that bonding issue in that panel right away.

[@raymondnasir1648]

Is that to a 100 amp sub panel

[@andrewstanton5846]

Is that a main panel or a sub panel? With only a few breakers in it it looks like a sub panel.

[@browncarp]

I'm no expert but I have ran some wire. I think that wire configuration is correct for a NEMA 10-50R 50 amp range receptacle, red, black, white neutral. A welder uses NEMA 6-50R, still 50 amps but uses red, black, bare copper ground.

[@johndavies2949]

And as a stand alone garage with its own service, where is your grounding electrode conductor.?

[@scottshipley7376]

I wondered what that 4th bare copper wire was for and what to do with it....👍thanks

[@shavkat84]

Question do you really have to run through conduit while your wire is inside the wall?

[@TheSeaOfAsher]

Not a electrician but I have a question? Why couldn't you tie the ground into the neutral? Is it because the metal enclosure wouldn't be protected? Would this change with insulated boxes like plastic enclosures?

[@johndavies2949]

I was wrong! If this truly is a main panel with an overhead feed at the meter base and no disconnect at the meter base then yes, the ground and neutrals connect together and the bond screw in the panel remains in place. The problem is this looks like a pretty new building. All out buildings are required to have a disconnect from the service entrance conductors. This disconnect should be on the outside for safety reasons. So the power would flow into top of meter base, out the bottom, then to a disconnect switch on the outside. It is at this disconnect switch grounds and neutral wires connect to the same grounded buds bar.

[@mikedickman6369]

Good job. One question: how did the breaker start out in the video at the bottom but in the end of video it was in the middle of breaker box?

[@marksin515]

Probably he changed plans after getting to the outlet, and shortened the cable run. Since it isn't the main point, he likely just opted to leave it as is. I'd have made the same call, depending on time. Good catch, sharp eyes!

[@bsmith8564]

6-3 NMB is code violation in 3/4 PVC , white color insulation indicates neutral. You need to put green tape on it as it is now a ground. You need locknuts on fittings not just bushings. You could have used 1/2 inch PVC with 2 # 6 and 1#8 THHN, would have been cheaper. A couple locknuts and small bottle of glue is cheap. I personally would not have used conduit. Running NMB through framing members (studs) does not subject it to physical damage and is code compliant.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks for the info. Why is 6-3 considered a code violation in ¾ pvc?

[@bsmith8564]

@@appalachiandiy2415 6-3 NMB has a cross section of .3318 it is considered 1 conductor per NEC which means you have to be at 53% or less of max conduit fill. Cross section of 53% on 3/4 PVC is .217 1 inch is .365.

[@natefulbright2861]

I was about to write this exact same comment! Glad you pointed this all out. This is just a lucky setup in that it's being wired directly to a main panel, so the neutral acting as the ground will work out. This would not work or be up to code for a sub-panel (where the ground and neutral must be isolated), as that third connector on the receptacle is the ground and not the neutral. Like the other poster said too, the conduit was unnecessary (though does look nice) and for your install the third white conductor is completely unnecessary and needlessly increases the cost. Though as an unintended side effect, you can now install a 14-50 receptacle, which uses both hot conductors and the neutral (and ground of course)

[@appalachiandiy2415]

@@natefulbright2861 Thanks for the input

[@thomasmarable6818]

If he ran 1/2 pvc he could have pulled 2 #8 witn a #10 ground and been done.

[@norsk54472]

looks good except for the lack of a metal lock nut. the bushing cannot be used for a lock nut feature

[@LarryRichelli]

Wondering why you cheeped out on the 15-50 plug. Something that gets plugged and unplugged frequently should have a quality (Hubble) outlet.

[@johndavies2949]

So you keep saying this is not a sub panel but a main panel as it is fed from the utility and not from another electrical panel, as evidence by the large wires terminated in the 3 lungs and no equipment ground wire. So I am assuming that the power is coming from the utility to your shop and directly into the interior panel. So is this power coming directly from the utility without going through a meter base? Is the meter base on the other side of the wall? What kind of overcurrent protection is on the wires feeding the panel? I think if you do not have a disconnect right at the meter base you can go 10 ft to its location. I assume this panel is within 10 ft of the meter if there is one.

[@fmainternational4210]

1st Again from THE PHILIPPINES!!!...

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Haha your on a roll!

[@patricklacson]

Does it matter if the red or black wire goes on either side of the vertical prongs on the outlet?

[@Hackdad]

No there both hot using the same current that allowed from the breaker it's hooked up to..see how he has 1 wire to each breaker..the ground is the middle prong normally at the top of a 220 plug..

[@IAmTheGreatOutdoors]

I thought I heard somewhere that there is an issue with sheathed cables in PVC conduit. Something about heat dissipation. Is that true? Or only for insulated cables? I'm not an electrician and think that sounds ridiculous. Great video otherwise! Much better than most of the electrical KZbin videos I've seen. This and the panel install were exactly what I've been looking for.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Great! I'm glad they were helpful. I have not heard of any heat dissipation issue with running sheathed wire in condiut

[@IAmTheGreatOutdoors]

@@appalachiandiy2415 Yeah, seemed a little BS-y to me. I understand electrical codes come from somewhere erroring on the side of caution but there's also a chance I may win the PowerBall.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

@@IAmTheGreatOutdoors haha I wish you did. Thanks for the response

[@turbobricksofficial]

Conduit for interior isnt required, correct? Being in a garage code for 2020 requires it to have an expensive 50amp GFCI breaker though i hear.

[@gurjindersingh199]

Yes NEC requires gfci for all garage lighting and receptacles. Kitchen receptacles including the range the range needs to be gfci

[@edadan]

I'm about to do an almost identical installation in my basement and there is no drywall. My question for you is: do you know if conduit is required by code? I live in Georgia.

[@paulanthony6763]

dont do it brother. code violation.

[@fvrrljr]

*you were Representing!* photovoltaic / solar thermal technician here: at first title threw me off like you were going to do a mickey mouse job. *awesome job!*

[@DerekHurst]

Would this work for an outlet for home recharging of an electric car?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Yea sure. As long as its requres a 50 amp outlet

[@amealnet2495]

Can I use just the thin copper ground wire and eliminate the white .

[@YeslynArts]

Yes

[@appalachiandiy2415]

I used my white

[@NoName-ef3jq]

If you were gonna use conduit you could've used THHN wires to be safe with code. Sheating can't go inside conduit. Other than that, everything looks fine to me.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks

[@jimyeats]

Sheathing can go in conduit. You do need to adjust for fill calculations, and there are some caveats, but it isn't against NEC. It's hard to pull, and in many local jurisdictions they say you can't use it, but it is not flat out against code.

[@thinkernight]

Good job! What is the wire gauge number?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

4 AWG

[@tomfrederick6083]

PVC Cement on the joints? Is it necessary inside?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

I would say if your going to have an electrical inspection, yes, if your doing it yourself i'd say you wouldn't have to.

[@ranjanty]

I just bought a 110/220v welder from Harbor Freight. I have a existing 220v receptacle in my garage for my table saw on a 30amp breaker. Could I temporarily change the receptacle to the 50amp and of course change the 30amp breaker to 50amp? I think the wire I used was 8AWG and the run was only 6ft from the panel. This will just be a one time use for about 10- 15 minutes. Would the 8AWG not over heat or blow the breaker in that short amount of time? Thanks for all answers. Also I was thinking of making a 20ft extension cord and connecting a 50amp receptacle box on the end. Connect other end to panel. I will be moving soon and really don't want to go into the wall and do it the right way.

[@conradsenior5843]

You are ok, that wire would support up to 8' at 50 to 60 Amps.

[@SunDevilDave]

Conduit if you want to hang a dart board.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

haha yea, hope your good at darts!

[@freedomfan3277]

Ground and neutral need to be separate in sub panel.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Correct. This is a main panel

[@freedomfan3277]

@@appalachiandiy2415 ok.

[@MountaineerOutdoors]

@@appalachiandiy2415 you clearly said that this is a garage? If it's a main panel 1 where is the grounding? Bro come on now. You said it is a garage at 8:53

[@appalachiandiy2415]

@@MountaineerOutdoors yep 100% a garage with its own service. How is that so hard to believe!?

[@parkourt25]

I feel like this is the only code everyone knows about but don't fully understand lol

[@animal579]

Can anyone comment on what guage wire was used, and what the maximum distance from the breaker that the receptable can be placed?

[@philandrew3603]

Looks like 6/3 to me.

[@Hackdad]

Im a youtube electrician and i know that the white neutral wire and the ground wire do not connect at the same bar on the panel..not sure why he doing that?

[@Paradisecountryinc]

Im curious what are all the specs on the wire you used to connect your breaker box to your outlet sir? 6/4 THHN?

[@dougk3307]

Looks like 6/3 Romex

[@KevinCoop1]

Here are a few mistakes. No glue on pvc. No locknut on male adapters, bushings are not made for that purpose. Did not reidentify the white to be ground. The electrical panel has no ground I can see. GEC and a ground rod is required. Coming soon, I see. Romex is not allowed to be run exposed in walls. Must have covering or be protected. Plastic boxes and recessed receptacle plates are for walls with covering. Other than that, ok.

[@AimingWanderously]

Does the 6 ga wire *have to* be in conduit inside a wall?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

No, i did this because there is no drywall or protection for the wires

[@AimingWanderously]

@@appalachiandiy2415 Sorry, I was one of those people who asked before finishing the video. :)

[@fredastaire6156]

Great video! Thank you for making this. I've seen a few videos now; but don't understand why some installs use a 30A breaker and some use a 50A breaker? Doesn't the power cable from the welder only support 30A?

[@phillipschmidtpottery]

I’m no electrician, but I think that receptacle only accepts the 6-50 plug. A 6-30 plug looks different, for this very reason you’re wondering about I’m guessing.

[@shaquanwilliams9147]

Bunch of stuff wrong here. Romex in conduit. Why not have just bought MC cable and run it thru the studs? No need for 6/3 wire in this application. White was not marked green for being used as a ground, not sure if NEC even allowed that?

[@user-fl2wn5zr5z]

I never heard of the ground going on the nuteral bar

[@mircomamsecohardwareandsafety]

5:02 Recepticle

[@bradhabeeb306]

what wire gauge are you using?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

4 AWG

[@germantube44]

Something is not right neutral wire (the white), should be capped, and the ground should be tie to receptacle 240.

[@markpennell4938]

Yes, he is bonding neutral at the receptacle site which is bad (the receptacle is screwed to the box). Potentially dangerous. The only place the neutral should be bonded is at the panel.

[@csbiro]

Several code violations here. 1) You are using the PVC not as a conduit, but a protection for NM-B cable (not wire). It still should be glued. 2) Now that we clarified that the wiring mode is NM cable, you need to secure it with cable clamps at the box. 3) The wires in the box are too short. You need at least 6 inches. 4) The way you wired up the receptacle, now you use the white wire as ground (so you need to mark it green), and you created an improperly bonded parallel ground to the box with the ground wire. 5) If you are on NEC 2020, the new receptacle must me GFCI protected. If you already went into the trouble to install the PVC, why didn't you properly glue it, used locknuts, so it would be a properly installed conduit, and used THHN wires. It would have been cheaper, too. If your receptacle and breaker are rated for 75 C (almost surely), you could have used two #8 wires for hots, and one #10 for ground (and no neutral).

[@thomassteck8510]

Thanks for adding the adjustments to make things better. Still thought the video was well done but agree a few things should be done differently. I've seen others that are adamant about having there receptacle with ground at the top... but that was usually 15 or 20A.

[@uglytruth4467]

Whats the name of that wire/size?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Off hand cant remember what I used

[@bobwhite8638]

Why no GFCI at the breaker?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

I had the breaker handy, it will get switched to a GCFI here shortly

[@bobwhite8638]

@@appalachiandiy2415 The reason I asked was if there was a conscious decision for no GFCI due to regs or otherwise. As it turns out, it was happenstance. Thank you for the reply. We are required to have the GFCI’s in my neck of the woods.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

@@bobwhite8638 are you requried even on heavy line like this? Or just house wiring?

[@bobwhite8638]

@@appalachiandiy2415 It refers to garage or shed receptacles.

[@sohot99]

Why did you put Neutral and Ground in the same place inside the electric panel?

[@ddiesel6914]

You mounted the outlet cover upside down.

[@inthedarkwoods2022]

Why not just run a 6/2 wire?

[@BryantAvant]

If that's a sub panel shouldn't you have separate bars for neutral and ground.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Its not. It's a main panel

[@FRJ1982]

Is that a 3 phase?

[@appalachiandiy2415]

No

[@FRJ1982]

@@appalachiandiy2415 I'm trying to wire up a three phase charger, sort of looks like a transformer but for charging up electric vehicles. And it is a 3 phase but I'm trying to connect it to a 6-50R like the one shown. How can I achieve this

[@kylemartin1941]

This video should be taken down, you don't run NM cable in conduit this small, a welder typically only needs 2 hots and a ground, this guy here is using the neutral for the ground which there's no need and shouldn't even be done and he is not even marking it, he is using the bare ground just to ground the box. This is going to get someone in trouble if they're running to a subpanel where everything needs to be kept separate and using a white wire and they put it on the neutral bar so I mean this video there's all sorts of stuff wrong with it

[@prnd21turbo]

I’m wondering if you’re saying the bare wire should be connected to the outlet and the neutral should go ….. where? Im a rookie just asking questions for my project.

[@richardlay1492]

Is that a 200 amp box

[@imtylerb]

Correct, if you run NM cable in conduit the conduit needs to be sized up as it counts towards the fill calculation as one giant cross section wire vs 3 or 4 THHNs. He should have used 8/2 vs 8/3 as he doesn’t need the 4th wire. It should just be two hots and a ground. In this case he used the neutral instead of bare ground, which creates confusion. This is okay to do but he should have wrapped the neutral in green tape at both ends to indicate that use (or just used the actual ground). He doesn’t have his receptacle’s ground (the neutral white) pigtailed with the box ground (bare copper), they are two parallel grounds until they follow each conductor back to the breaker box’s bus bar where the bare ground and neutral/white ground meet. Im not sure that’s bad, I’d think so, but it’s certainly not efficient; a sparky will clarify I’m sure.

[@jdstory5217]

I just did this with 6/2 straight from panel to a 3 prong b/w + ground. He could have just used 6/2 no neutral needed. For a 3 prong.

[@johnroesch689]

Use the ground .not the white neutral

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Could you explain that more? Use the ground instead of neutral?

[@thomasmarable6818]

@@appalachiandiy2415 use the bare to the ground on device not the white, you dont have a neutral

[@AvocaSingleTrack]

It's supposed to be too hot and a ground to that outlet. You have a neutral hooked on there, that's not correct. You need to open that box back up. Disconnect and wire nut that neutral.... Then connected bare ground wire into the third terminal on that receptacle where you had neutral. Neutral does not go there. That's wrong

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Did you not see that the white wire is on the nuetral bus bar which is bonded to ground? 4:19 why would that be incorrect?

[@deanaf]

Too hot? Too hot for what?

[@ronaldnaeyaert3653]

Home Depot must have been out of pvc cement

[@Weasel_NM575]

And this video folks is why you call a licensed electrician not your local handy man this fails miserably

[@tomgarrison8492]

If your welder has a duty cycle of 20 or less you could use #12 wire with a 50 amp circuit breaker for your welder outlet. As an electrician of 45 years I've installed dozens of welder outlets using this common, cost-effective and code-compliant method. Read Article 630 in the 2020 NEC. P.S. If I had been your inspector your work would have been red-tagged.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

What would you have "red tagged"?

[@r777v]

#12 shall only be used for 20 amp circuits when connected to a breaker in a panel, as you should know from your 45 years of knowledge of electrical codes from your work in the field.

[@thomasmarable6818]

@@r777v no I have used it on a 30 circuit for A/C unit and it meet the NEC. You need to look at the code under air conditioning and you see what I mean. Plus if you are going to use that rule just the one for welders then it most be hard wire and not to a device, because other things can be plug in and burn that wire up.

[@alandavis4885]

12 gauge wire is only rated for 20A. Why on earth would you even consider terminating it on any breaker larger than 20A????

[@unclerusslfixit2201]

@@thomasmarable6818 code says for 14, 12, and 10 in a panel shall only be allowed on 15. 20, and 30 amp breakers in that order

[@bobd.fletcherjr4912]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙋‍♂️🙋‍♂️

[@nathanflogel7946]

hey bubba the neutral isn't required the ground is.....yikes

[@jimmysaunders9815]

6/3 wire for this installation is not needed, 6/2wire is what's needed, Hot Hot Ground. Tell me why do you need 6/3? Why conduit thru the wall? Use MC 6/2 thru the studs.

[@SunDevilDave]

HA! just enough wire. I always have a few feet left over; good for nothing.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Yea it was just barely enough. Better to have a little to much than not enough!

[@paulanthony6763]

The conduit is not required for this installation. As it is actually against code because it creates too much heat when ran in conduit. Run the jacketed wires through the studs by themselves. Place two squeeze connector at each end where it attaches to the panel as well as the 4x4 outlet box. The rest of the install is correct as shown.

[@vee950]

So you really only need 3 wires not 4

[@MarioHernandez-hb8eh]

Yes, not a electrician, first romex cannt be pushed in conduit. Secondly you cant put ground and neutral on same bar, in a subpanel

[@emiliohuerta2658]

if my welders plug only has three wires (black, white and gree) why would I need a common? come on man

[@Leonitus485]

Your neutral and ground should not be connected to the same bus because that is a sub panel. Furthermore you shouldn’t even have a neutral. All you need is 2 hots and a ground to hook up a welder. You should definitely take this video down if you don’t know what you’re doing. This can get someone hurt or even killed.

[@mr.papaveraceae3009]

There's several mistakes you made and would not pass inspection.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Please list the mistakes along with the correct NEC code then.

[@topgun5399]

Guy you should pull this video the materials you are using for this installation are not up to code. Your conduit alone is combustible the smoke alone is toxic. I will not go into the code violations because there are to many. Get an electrician to look at it! The plug itself is upside-down even tho it's not a code compliance. That tells me you are not an electrician. Hate it when people make a video and have no idea what they are doing especially when it comes to wiring a high voltage installation. Do it yourself is good only when you research the project 1st especially electricity. Then you should get it checked with a licensed electrician but at least do the research. It's way more different inside from outside. Reason for the codes altho it is different from state to state witch I found out when I moved to a different state. Not much but there is some changes.

[@rayyoudontneedtoknow6887]

As a retired electrician watching this video made me so nervous. wow This guy is doing everything wrong I don't even know where to begin. Everything is wrong from the panel all the way up to the outlet he calls a breaker, this guy is nowhere near being electrician

[@appalachiandiy2415]

If you have any valid input I would love to hear how you would change or make this better. please be specific and explain your reasoning so we all can learn, thanks

[@thomasmarable6818]

The things he did wrong ok 1 the conduit is supported not strap or fasten 2 no glue on joints 3 just a plastic bushing no lock nut. 4 conduit undersized, should of used 1 inch. 3 used the white as a ground conductor wire smaller then 4 awg most be solid green can not just add green tape . How to fix replace wire with #8 thhn and a green #10 ground. Glue pipe. Sucure conduit near panel and box. Add locknuts to male adapter. Bushing not required but you got them so go ahead and use them . If you dont have a code book and plan on doing more electrical get one. Also looks like already have nm cable ran through the walls that also is a nono under 7 feet unless you close up the walls. Not trying to put anyone down just educating

[@thomasmarable6818]

Yes and somebody will say 8 only good for 40 amps. I say look it up before you talk it good for 55 amps

[@appalachiandiy2415]

@@thomasmarable6818 very well explained, thanks.

[@rayyoudontneedtoknow6887]

@@thomasmarable6818 yes Thomas, I would agree with What you said. I would also like to add the Rome X cable nm cable is not designed to be in conduit or PVC. It is meant to be free air

[@Frank5]

Strictly-amateur and full of code violations.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Thanks. Please point them out and reference NEC so we all can learn

[@tiberiu_nicolae]

Plumbing and electrical should be left to the specialists. You don't know what you don't know, and it's stupid to expect experts to teach you in a comment section on KZbin.

[@earlebaker2440]

You Tube should remove this video due to everything is wrong with his install, this is a sub panel and the ground and neutral wire should separated. An inspector would red tag this job.

[@appalachiandiy2415]

Well unfortunately for your not so hot detective skills, this is not a sub panel, it is a main panel.