How To: GE Dryer Rear Drum Bearing Kit WE25M40

How To Replace: GE Rear Drum Bearing Kit WE25M40 www.appliancepa...
Symptoms: Bearing failed causing a lot of noise in the back of the dryer thus, damaging the shaft and eventually the drum may not turn.
Tools: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, wood blocks, Torx-25 screwdriver, piece of wire, 1/4” nut driver.
This GE made Dryer Rear Drum Bearing Kit replaces the following older part numbers on General Electric, Hotpoint, RCA, Sears and Kenmore Dryers: 784658, WE02X0195, WE03M0015, WE03M0065, WE03X0036, WE03X0039, WE03X0065, WE25M0040, WE2X195, WE2X195D, WE3M15, WE3M65, WE3X36, WE3X39, WE3X65.
Buy the new Dryer Rear Drum Bearing Kit WE25M40 here: www.appliancepa...
Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less.
If you enjoyed this video, please click the like button. Subscribe to this channel for more appliance repair tutorials.
If you need any more technical advice, call us at 1-877-477-7278 or chat with us on our website www.appliancepa.... We're available 7 days a week.
For more appliance advice, information, and tips, follow us on social media.
Facebook: / appliancepartspros
Twitter: / applpartspros

[@rudyenter7823]

First of all: WOW - what a SUPERB (understatement) job in the quality and clarity of these videos. If there were Oscars for this movie category - you'd win!!! Second: allow me to share a discovery. The step at 11:32 where the belt is placed back onto the idler/motor pulleys is my most GRIEVOUS part of the repair. I DISCOVERED GE's SECRET!! If you look at the bottom of the picture, you'll see a funny little "horn" or hook on the sheet metal. Its purpose is to hold the idler arm (with what seems excessively long by the pulley), as instructed - to the center of the machine. That then gives you both hands to navigate the belt over the two pulleys - but with right arm through the hole, (not under the drum as shown).

[@J.T.19134]

Since you seem to know what your talking about, is the idler pully supposed to be tight, as in not able to move back n forth on the idler pully rod?? Mine moves like and inch each way?

[@rudyenter7823]

@@J.T.19134 Yes, that side-to-side sliding lets the pulley self-locate in-line with the motor pulley and drum. (I had the same concern when I first saw that)

[@J.T.19134]

@Rudy Enter OK , Hey Thanks alot for getting back to me. Do you mind if I ask a few more questions. My wife is saying just go by a new one, but that will hurt my pride, that I atleast couldn't salvage this one. Lol. I have it all back together. I think its turning the wrong way, kot sure if that could be the wires just hooked up backwards. Also the drum seems REALLY tight. I have to, I guess manually start it, then it runs for a minute and shuts down. I out a new betl on, could it be to tight?

[@rudyenter7823]

@@J.T.19134 I'm just a home fix-it guy like you ;) If you have the same GE unit, the drum turns counter clockwise, or alternatively, the motor should "feed" belt to the idler pulley.

[@rudyenter7823]

@@J.T.19134 There are excellent KZbin videos on motor replacement that give excellent guidance on correct terminal placement. Belt length is extremely important as I found out - Amazon shipped me 1 inch too short and then belt was too tight and twisted the blower.

[@DaveTurnerBassGuitar]

this video is spot on, thank you! It took me about two hours for the repair because I spent some time cleaning everything before putting it back together. For holding the bearing in place, I thread one screw in from the outside in to hold the assembly in place, then threaded the other 2 screws from the inside out to get them in place, then went back to the 3rd and put it on the inside, then tightened all 3 down. This is easier if you don't have long arms to hold everything in place yourself, or don't have an assistant to hold that bearing in place on the backside. Thanks again!

[@philmann691]

There are a couple KZbin videos demonstrating this repair. Watch all of them to get confident, although I think this is the best one. The total job seems a little scary, but it's not so bad once you get started and follow the steps. The rear bearing is most likely your problem if the dryer makes a loud off-and-on squeaking noise. I just completed this repair and can add some tips to this helpful video. 1) At time 7:20, it shows the new drum bearing kit. Check to ensure you have ALL the parts shown, as I was missing several screws from the "sealed" parts bag! 2) Place a tarp on your floor to make space for the front panel and drum which you will have to remove and set aside. 3) Have your camera ready to take photos of anything you remove BEFORE you remove it. You may need these photos for reference during reassembly. 4) At time 4:22, he removes the rear panel inside the drum. Before removing it, place a small piece of masking tape at any corner of the panel, and another piece of tape at the same spot on the drum. This will make it much easier to realign when you reinstall the panel. 5) At time 6:05, you will need a very short stubby Phillips screwdriver, so have one handy. 6) At time 7:29, you have to manually thread screws into the new mounting plate. This can be much more difficult than demonstrated in the video. You may need a vise to hold the bracket and a large handle screwdriver with heavy gloves for leverage and power. 7) At time 8:01, he inserts only one of the four screws and then remounts the heater assembly, inserting the remaining three screws afterwards. Instead, I suggest you insert all four of the screws while the heater assembly is still off so you can ensure all four screws are tight and the bracket lays flat. This will not be possible to check if you remount the heater assembly before replacing all the screws. Good luck ... you CAN do it!

[@milkywayandbeyond]

What issue does replacing this part solve? Mine makes a clunking noise whenever the drum turns on its own or if I push it with my hand.

[@philmann691]

@@milkywayandbeyond I recall that mine made a loud squeaking noise, not a clunk. My dryer was 24 years old when this part failed. It gets used a couple times per week. I have replaced other parts on it, as well. But this was the most challenging job.

[@milkywayandbeyond]

@@philmann691 Thanks!

[@donlarsen5569]

Great Tutorial! Had a small noise in the dryer that drove my wife nuts....This help find the noise, a piece of plastic banging on the drum. Put back together, but now the bearing is going but thanks to your tutorial I know how to take apart the dryer and fix it.

[@johnporter9282]

Took 3.5 hours. Couldn’t get the belt positioned correctly on the pulleys so it took about thirty extra minutes but I got it done. Great video.

[@appliancepartspros]

Glad you were able to fix your issue! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.

[@personalaccount4228]

Helped that my GE dryer was same or very similar model to one in video. Video and instructions were great - although made re-assembly seem a lot smoother than the reality. I’m not the handiest guy, so took me about 2-hours start to finish in a cramped laundry room (half an hour of profanity interspersed), but video and instructions were dead on. Allow half an hour and a shop vac to clean the enormous amount of lint you will find everywhere. Helps if you have someone around to hold things in place while you initially mount the new drum bearing. Pay attention to instructions on how to reattach the top cover - it can be a real @&4/! - I gave up and took off the control panel cover and then re-attached after getting the top cover back on, but you lose ‘cool points’ doing it this way. Highly recommend this video.

[@jaredcowan7207]

The hardest part about replacing the rear bearing was re-attaching the belt to the motor and pulley. There is just no space and I had to stick my right arm in all the way to my armpit! So I devised a trick that may help other first timers. I used a few strips of scotch tape to hold the belt in place at the top of the drum then I laid the dryer on its back and was able to be in a much better position to attach the belt. It also relieved the weight of the drum from being on my arm and gave me just a touch bit more space since I wasn't fighting gravity. Don't forget to remove the tape. Overall the repair was fairly straight forward and simple.

[@appliancepartspros]

Thanks for that tip!

[@labattsipa]

i have a better one for you. before you install the drum, take the idler pulley arm and lock it behind the bracket on the right side of the motor. goto 3:39 of the video, see the "L" shaped end of the bracket at the bottom center of the screen, well place the pulley idler arm end behind it so it holds in place. place the drum in the appropriate location, run the belt to the motor pulley and to the correct side of the idler pulley. reach in from the opening under the drum on the left and release the arm from its locked position ,,tada!!

[@simplify_scanning4124]

I removed the left side panel...

[@taylorbell330]

I used a combination of what @@labattsipa and @Jared Cowan suggested. I used some gaffer's tape to keep the belt in place, and pulled the idler arm back and tucked out of the the way. After several tries, I decided to use The Force. I put my right arm in the left entry, and got the belt in place by feel without even trying to look and did it on the first try. Lightly got the idler pushed back into place and opened a beer before wrestling with the top panel back on. It wasn't hard, just took a full Dead show to get it done.

[@rudyenter7823]

@@labattsipa And here I thought I'd discovered something new (see my comment). Clearly the GE engineers knew what they were doing - adding no product cost. Way to go. I'd better start reading comments first. :)

[@christophercaldwell2252]

Super helpful video. Replacement parts great. Took me longer than 2 hours. There was a retaining clip on the nose of the old bearing (GE DDE1630 and 30 years old). I could not lift the drum out until I removed three screws inside drum and just let old parts drop in the back. Take picts on your phone of fasteners you remove and it's easy to retrace steps to put back together.

[@Rashed2030]

You are the beast lecture because you are the only one giving the reason of the change you fanes from saudi arabia

[@unlikelyimager547]

Tks - the disassembly process and image at 3:39 were what I needed. I ain't throwin' out my 1992 dryer - it works just fine! New appliances... bah...

[@jackoftrades6189]

Love your videos...I get a lot of info for my dryer. Noticed the guy in the video must of had the dryer eat one of his socks because he's wearing mismatched socks. Lol😂😂😂 great content though and very knowledgeable! Thank you

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you! So glad you were able to fix your issue. Let us know if you have any questions!

[@sweetiepienumber1]

Helpful video because I didn't get directions. I should have bought my kit from this guy. However -- THE BELT and pulleys... Also, I should have watched the whole video before and not after. I found his "GE Idler Pulley video to be more helpful in installing the new belt. Note: My 22-year-old Fisker & Paykel is identical to this dryer except the controls, and mine is gas. Thanks!

[@appliancepartspros]

Glad you were able to fix your issue! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.

[@pacificprospector]

Awesome! Thank you for putting this together and posting.

[@Koverse1986]

Always the best tutorials, and this is my favorite tutor!!

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.

[@geecrawdad]

Very helpful, thank you! If only it were that easy. Since my washer is not in a big room all by its lonesome, I didn't have to disconnect the front panel wiring. Instead of just unscrewing the bracket for the high-limit thermostat (fuse), I tried to pull off the wires - connector was on too tight and I cracked the t'stat. Had to superglue it together and hope it works. I did test for continuity but not for excessive heat. Found out afterwards that you can loosen the wiring for some slack, pull out the heater element housing, then unscrew the t'stat bracket. Also, supported the heater element housing with a small stool to straddle the duct and a box on top of that. Someone else mentioned the small ear on the motor bracket so you can pull the idler to the right about 6 inches, then slightly towards you to hook it on, giving you a slack belt. You may find that necessary if the tension on the idler is too high when moved to the right. But the belt needs to be in the right position first which is on the left side of the idler as you push it and hook it on. It won't be on the motor pulley at this point. You'll have the slack for that after it's hooked on the motor bracket. It will be clear once the drum is out. One other, I placed a towel under the drum to raise it so had more room to get my left arm in there.

[@appliancepartspros]

Glad the video was able to assist you with your repair!

[@vernroach3413]

Used to run service on the coin op's, and domestic's...Apartments had them, often in basement laundry rooms...Did many of these and almost always the source of the squeaking, dryer complaint, on GE, Hotpoint and now other type dryers using their system... Good video showing the procedure...WP/KM easiest of them all to work on, bar none...They use rollers for the rear support...Still a good product and a darn good video...Thanks for the flashbacks.

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know!

[@007dude9]

My dryer has an access panel on the rear holding up the vent. By removing that you have a lot more room to install the belt. The spring was very hard to press down going in from the front and you can't really see what your doing. It was easy from the back, more room for your hands and you could see what your doing. Also the sheet metal is very sharp, I covered it with duck tape to save my arms.

[@evanlee6931]

10년 쓴 드라이어 이 영상으로 고쳤습니다. 감사합니다. Thank you soooo much!!

[@appliancepartspros]

You are very welcome!

[@robertclark2714]

We first replaced the front plastic glide holder and glides. Then we replaced the rear bearing exactly as this video showed. It still screams so loud you can hear it outside of the house when you put wet clothes in it but is fine when they are finally dry. The slightest amount of weight on the drum and it screams. I liked the old Maytag design much better. This is designed obsolescence.

[@appliancepartspros]

What is your model number?

[@MaryDrinkwater]

Thank you for the helpful tutorial! My dryer is sounding much better now.

[@jonfulmer5422]

Love your vid - thanks! Quick question - my new bearing kit came with three o-rings with the three screws that hold the bearing assembly to the back of the drum. I notice you don't using o-rings. Should I use them? Where would they go? Between the screw heads and shield? Between the shield and the back of the drum? Or between the back of the drum and the bearing shaft assembly? Thanks a million!!!

[@appliancepartspros]

What is the model number of your dryer and we can look into this for you.

[@edwinhocson3878]

Thank u very much couldn't done it without this video...

[@ryannash634]

My GE dryer requires part WE3M33 instead of part WE25M40. Is the installation for that part similar to the installation used in this video? Also when replacing that part should i just go ahead and replace the shaft and bracket, retainer bearing, rear drum sleeve, and the o ring? WE3M33 only comes with the shaft and bracket so i would have to buy all the other parts, but if its better to replace them all at once then i will

[@jamesleicher]

i had australia fisher and Paykel in 3 times they replaced motor and jocky wheel, just could not work it out until i was going throw away the dryer i thought let me have look and open it .today had them in brought only the nylon bush(Bearing need metal housing for it as its worn., now got wait for parts .machine 3 bit years, to get to this stage 3 months

[@appliancehelp]

You can thank GE for making it so complicated!

[@patm95]

What type of sounds does the dryer make when this bearing is going bad? Ours has started making a low humming noise. Hard to tell but sounds like coming from the back.

[@appliancepartspros]

If the bearing is bad it could make a loud roaring sound. You will want to see if you can tell which part the noise is coming from. It could be a motor.

[@patm95]

@ will do! Thanks! I replaced the front bearing about 4 years ago. It’s about 20 years old now. It’s been a good one!

[@appliancepartspros]

You're welcome!

[@thebiggestchill]

I believe it's recommended to use lock tite to keep screws from unthreading. I used lock washers, but this caught threads over a month until they stopped, a thin split washer is best otherwise. No grease is needed for rear drum bearing. Mine was ok, but oring fell apart so I decided to do this. This was the most disappointing failure since the metal fins on the heating element. 22 years is very good though so I keep it working. Plastics failing will likely keep it from going past 35. years.

[@davewilson13]

No lubricant on the rear shaft right?

[@towsontigers57]

Sir, I have a question. I have a GE dryer, model DVL223EB4WW. I cannot get the drum to come out in order to replace the bearing. Any suggestions? I've loosened the the drum belt, ect., but the drum does not want to come out. Serial number SF703412W. Any help is appreciated. Thank you, Jay

[@wolfman7393]

Good tip to loosen the side panels to get the drum out easier. Thats always a fight

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you! If you have any questions just let us know!

[@wolfman7393]

Of course! Your parts are very reasonable!

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you!

[@WillieKing-i7j]

Excellent video and thanks

[@appliancepartspros]

You're welcome!

[@j8lech]

Is it 100% necessary to replace bearing retainer?

[@betterdeadthanred9863]

Not sure if you'll see this, but the back of my dryer's drum is scraping against the metal clips (protectors?) is there an easy fix for that, do I just bend them out of the way rofl?

[@appliancepartspros]

What is the model number of your dryer?

[@betterdeadthanred9863]

@@appliancepartspros GFD45ESSM1WW

[@appliancepartspros]

Have you checked to see if there is anything broken back there that would cause the drum to scrap like it is?

[@roseestrada2027]

Does the drum roller move back and forth once you put the snap ring on?

[@COPYKATTZ28]

Cant remember if i ever saw a better video

[@ActionPlusEffort]

Would you need any type of grease on the bearing?

[@appliancepartspros]

That shouldn't be necessary

[@heymanfrisbee]

I'm wondering if a Kenmore stack-able dryer rear bearing replacement would be similar? Has anyone done this?

[@rayhewitt4688]

Excellent video thank you

[@appliancepartspros]

Glad we could help you out!

[@christiancarfann729]

Very well explained

[@ejruff4232]

Have no screws at top of door to remove GE top panel. What now

[@charlesamong387]

Great video thank you!

[@appliancepartspros]

You are welcome!

[@pogojava]

Great video, but how the hell do people work with gloves on?

[@richardcrockett7528]

Hey thanks a lot for that video buddy 👍

[@wadoodmohd1870]

very grat job...thanks

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you!

[@ronbrown8714]

Thank You, This was VERY helpful!

[@appliancepartspros]

You're welcome!

[@labattsipa]

thanks,,video works like a dream.

[@appliancepartspros]

You're welcome!

[@nikolayignatiev375]

Thank you.

[@jamesoldaker2434]

Very helpful

[@appliancepartspros]

Glad we were able to help you. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.

[@ElonMuskX]

Why the complete tear down. Why not just replace the plastic bearing?

[@Koverse1986]

Because the plastic bearing isn't the issue... thats why he's replacing the rear bearing. Because thats the issue.

[@geraldgriffin8731]

Awesome. Thanks

[@appliancepartspros]

You're welcome!

[@andreahaney6753]

I got the part, put it in, put everything back together and I guess two wires are touching because something zappy, burning happened. Yikes! Guess I'm taking it back apart, ugh

[@christianhiggins710]

0:25, "It's gonna be a very easy repair." Uhhh

[@islasluis]

Thanks so much

[@johnstancliff7328]

and if you use a flashlight to see inside the housing to release and reattach the belt, be sure to remove the flashlight prior to reassembling the dryer.... nothing worse then going to finish a job and realizing you left something INSIDE the dryer housing! (thank god the flashlight was still on...!)

[@masudmoslim8680]

Thanks Sir

[@howardtoob]

Excellent! Thanks

[@LoungingLoriL]

This does not even look close to my dryer!

[@User-br4jp]

Wow, so complicated

[@justindowney-bensley1923]

Completely skipped over the bearing clip

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you for letting us know!

[@robert704]

Dude! You look like weird al Yankovic!!!!!!!!!

[@rayhewitt4688]

Excellent video thank you