Honda Power Steering Pump Re-Seal & Bearing Replacement (90s & 2000s vehicles)

[@unebonnevie]

Just one confirmation: The one you did in the video was from a V6 Honda, that is, 6-cylinder car? Also, for people like me who want to do this: Just be careful not to have the power steering fluid land on the belts, thus lubricating your pulleys. That would not be good. Be prepared to catch all fluid dropping out when removing the hoses with some rags. EXCELLENT VIDEO! Thumb downers are just people who don't appreciate a great DIY like this!

[@josephineofalltrades5613]

Without a doubt one of the very best DIY videos I have ever seen. Strong work sir!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you very much!

[@triggerfloresify]

Yes !!

[@kingyaa4555]

Definitely made my day easier. For those saying buy a new alot of your parts come reman. Why not learn something and save a buck or 2 components are normally easily available as opposed to the part

[@stickercuttingcom]

You could always use the old bearing to push against the new bearing when hammering with the socket, for a more even surface. Thank you for the video!

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes totally! I always do that with wheel bearings.

[@stickercuttingcom]

@@AutoFixYT Do you think after you dropped the veins out of the unit, that putting them back in randomly hurt anything with it working after you reinstalled? Would you keep the vein section together as one piece if at all possible if you did it again? (is it not worth messing with, it looks like you removed the o ring just fine without touching it)

[@AutoFixYT]

@@stickercuttingcom You can't really mess it up by taking the veins out and putting them in randomly as long as they're facing the right way. If I was to do it again I'd definitely try to keep the unit together, only because it's a pain to put them all back individually.

[@craig9575]

Great video, very thorough. I did the entire job using all the Honda OEM orings and the main shaft seal plus the Honda fluid but I can't get it to flow after I installed the pump. I've taken it apart and methodically rebuilt it going by the shop manual. I was thinking there was a need to prime it somehow. I must've done something wrong but I can't figure it out. The entire rebuilding process is straight forward. When I start the car, the pump doesn't make any noise but still no fluid is moving. I tried everything to get the air out (before starting engine) including manually turning the pulley and of course turning the wheel. I'm pulling my hair out. I just wish I had another set of eyes on me next time. Thanks for doing yours right!

[@AutoFixYT]

Hmm that's very odd and frustrating. Unless there's a clog someplace, I'm not sure what your issue could be. I know there's a screen that filters out the junk that goes on the pump where one of the two lines/hoses connects. Maybe that is somehow restricting the flow? Even if it isn't primed, it should pull fluid in and push air out by itself.

[@edwardreyes6867]

Im currently experiencing the same issue. Resealed my power steering pump (different style but same concept) and I’ve tried lifting the front end to bleed it. Topped it off. Reservoir would overflow but steering wheel is hard at all rpm. Engine Rpms doesn’t bump up when you turn the steering wheel so I believe the pump is not building pressure.

[@Ken_in_Wisconsin]

@craig9575 Did you figure this out?

[@aaron_333]

Great guide! You can actually upgrade the bearing to a double sealed unit. It is 6203.2RS.C3. Mine is a made in Japan Koyo branded one. Honda doesn't make their own bearings.

[@AutoFixYT]

Good to know, thank you!

[@chadrose]

Ty sir, I will put this info to good use

[@1575murray]

I used the same one in my snowblower when I replaced the impeller assembly because the shaft was bent when I got it. Strange coincidence! You can save a lot of $$$ getting parts from the original source rather than from the local Honda dealer. My Honda has the 2.3L 4 cylinder and doesn't have the inlet o-ring and is much easier to access than the one on the 6 cylinder models.

[@neilhassanali316]

Exactly.

[@bonkoo5953]

thank you so much . your video was great help after I overhauled steering wheel pump.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@psemeq]

Awesome video. Thanks :) Little tip: you could put shaft into freezer, it would shrink and you would be able to put the bearing easily ;)

[@versitell848]

Thank you for sharing. Would the same Tip work for taking off the the old bearing. Struggling over here, haha.

[@AutoFixYT]

Worth a shot! Put the whole thing in the freezer, and then use a torch and heat up the bearing. Might not work but who knows

[@me323me]

Fantastic video man, very clear and concise! Only criticism I have is the places you set your camera in some shots made it jiggle some, but excellent production regardless!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! And yeah, found that out the hard way after I already filmed lol but learned from my mistake!

[@me323me]

@@AutoFixYT Good stuff man! Keep it up!!!

[@royebrey9239]

Nicely filmed and explained. Shows how to do the job with a basic toolkit. Thanks,

[@ericbmusic]

def one of the best and most thorough how-to vids I've ever seen. Great work.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@jamelsalem3702]

Your videos are awesome the diagram of the belt saved me big time

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@Metroenet]

Great video, I was going to just buy a rebuilt unit but will reseal it instead Thanks!

[@AutoFixYT]

Glad the video helped!

[@Bastard_Operator_From_Hell]

Instead of hammering the bearing on, stick the bearing in the oven at 150 degrees F for 30 minutes and stick the shaft in the freezer for 30 minutes. It will just slide on. Then you take shaft and bearing and freeze it for 30 minutes and place the pump housing into the oven for 30 minutes and the shaft with bearing on will just go into the housing.

[@AutoFixYT]

Good idea! Thank you!

[@SteveRand]

Thanks. Doing this on a Subaru and wasn't sure if the bearing was pressed in and was a bit hesitant to hit it. I used a small piece of wood to protect the shaft from the hammer.

[@AutoFixYT]

Awesome!

[@richdrives]

Doing this right now. Thanks for both of your tips. Wasn’t going to replace the bearing and now I will. Seems like all our pumps use a 6203 bearing lol 😀

[@Ace-ki1mc]

Great video, thanks for making this. Going to do this on my 2006 Acura MDX.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks! And awesome! Good luck! It's a fun job just make sure you have a very clean work area and keep everything organized.

[@airplanemechanic5561]

Great video. I would suggest avoiding damaging the pump I would not hammer on it with a metal hammer, but instead, use the handle end instead if you don't have a rubber mallet. You could put a small piece of wood in between the hammer and pump.

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes that's what I would do next time. No damage was made to this pump but if I ever do it again I would definitely do it differently.

[@euonymus1980]

Nice job as always!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@edgartopico5595]

Thank you for sharing this video. Btw I am your new subscriber. Looking forward for more insightful tutorial videos.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!

[@RothBeyondTheGrave]

You're lucky you didn't mushroom that shaft using the wrong hammer on it. If I know my mom's 197k mi '07 TL, it would've mushroomed on the 1st hit. Also hope your rack seals don't get destroyed using non genuine fluid. Still not sure how much that really matters...probably overhyped. Still probably the best Honda/Acura ps pump reseal vid out there among 1-2 others

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! And well since I was holding the shaft with my hand, I figured that before the shaft gets deformed, my hand wouldn't be able to hold the shaft and would be in pain lol. So I wasn't actually hammering very hard. As for the fluid... yeah it runs best on Honda genuine but aftermarket fluid will do just fine. I've run it for years and know others that have too. As long as you keep it fresh it'll be good.

[@RothBeyondTheGrave]

@@AutoFixYT hahah yeah your hand won't lie to you! Right on, I figured so. There's always a little too much emphasis on the old "use genuine this, or die" philosophy. More incentive to keep the fluid fresh. Thanks again for the great vid. My mom's TL thanks you! Lol

[@AutoFixYT]

@@RothBeyondTheGrave Yeah... using genuine fluid basically just takes all the guessing work out of picking the right one when you're faced with an isle of different fluids. And yes sometimes there may be some proprietary ingredients in there but in most cases aftermarket fluids are just as good, and sometimes even necessary in higher duty / performance applications.

[@davidguzman7472]

Great video man! So is it possible that my pump itself is leaking??? Ive replaced the O rings on the power steering hoses for my 09 Civic, but it still leaks. This leaking is confusing AF and hurts my brain lol. Thanks

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah totally possible!

[@beschken]

thanks for the detailed Tutorial! does this repair fix squeaky pump? on My 1997 CR-v pump squeaks ანდ steering is hard to turn and softens only when pressing accelerator

[@AutoFixYT]

The pump doesn't squeal, the belt squeals. It sounds to me like the fluid is too thick or something is causing extra resistance because when you rev it up, it works. So the first thing you want to do is drain and flush the entire PS system and fill it and bleed it with Honda Genuine PS fluid. See if the problem persists. You might also want to inspect your belt, make sure it's in good condition and not old, cracked, dried up, or worn to the point where all the ribs are very pointy. If so, replace the belt. If neither of those two are the case, make sure the tensioner on the belt is still applying proper tension. Feel it out. If it feels like it doesn't take much effort to release tension, it's probably weak and needs to be replaced. In which case it will let the belt slip at idle when you need the most amount of assist from the PS. After having checked and done all those, then you can start blaming the pump itself, but keep in mind it could be other things as well. Check for any damaged hoses, likes, and make sure the power steering rack is moving smoothly. Disconnect the tie rods and make sure those aren't seized. Both inner and outer. Hope this helps!

[@beschken]

thank you ones again! excellent explanation! @@AutoFixYT

[@balkee42]

Hey how is yours holding up? I bought a kit as well (edelmann brand). but some are saying buy OEM o rings from the dealer instead.

[@AutoFixYT]

Mines just fine still, no issues since the reseal.

[@balkee42]

@@AutoFixYT k thanks

[@lexelusify]

Great video!! Thankyou it helps alot👍🏻

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks!

[@vernonbosshard9317]

Whats the bearing number please? Never mind, soon as I wrote this you read it. but....a 6203 bearing is as common as the house fly. LU is the type seal used. PS don't buy from Honda, you get the exact same bearing for less on Ebay and Amazon, NTN brand 6203 LU

[@jamkpa]

Excellent video!!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@ryanprice1889]

This video is awesome, very detailed, thanks so much! I'm rebuilding mine right now and have a piece that came out and I have no idea where it came from. It's a tiny circular coiled spring. It came out after I removed the 10mm allen/hex bolt (flow control valve cap). Any ideas?

[@ryanprice1889]

In case anyone has a similar issue, I figured out that the spring was part of the main pump seal (the big thick gasket that is placed first in this video, that the shaft goes through). Mine was so gummed up that it came out in pieces. But if you are replacing the main seal, then you don't have to worry about it as it is internal to that part

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you very much! And well looks like you figured it out before I got a chance to respond haha

[@aaroncalhounash3103]

Two years later how is your pump doing?

[@AutoFixYT]

Still doing fine, no leaks and works great. 275k-ish miles on it.

[@ungkiwira1903]

Awesome,, great job bro.. so helpfull...

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@fasttrackcam]

Would this fit my 1999 Honda Civic power steering pump?

[@AutoFixYT]

I have no idea, you'll have to calm the dealer or look it up.

[@reyortiz5197]

Is that pump for the accord 1998 also??

[@AutoFixYT]

Not sure but it's probably very similar

[@jamalakeembasdeo454]

Would this apply to the CRV 2007 model?

[@AutoFixYT]

I'm sure it's similar, but it might not be an identical process.

[@PrinceSteering-nh9mj]

Am a steering engineer by profession I work and repair all kinds of steering pump and racks...

[@AutoFixYT]

That's cool

[@PrinceSteering-nh9mj]

@@AutoFixYT I love to work in your company sir

[@dthor68]

I have 3 problems with this video. One, only use Honda PS fluid. Honda PS pumps and transmissions are very sensitive to non Honda fluids. Two, the silicone you used on the bearing seal, again, you only use Honda PS fluid internally. Anything else will contaminate it. Three, you should only strike the bearing shaft with a brass drift pin. Also, Harbor Freight carries a press that cost $60. It seems to get good ratings. Other than those three things, I thought the video was very informative. Its been three years, maybe you can update us on how things are going today if you still have the car. Thanks Much.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks for the tips and the info! Although i do know about all the things you mentioned, I was using what I had to make it work. In most cases, that's what most of the viewers of this video will end up doing also. Anyway, pump is still good, vehicle is still in thr family! No leaks, no noise, everything is still good. Thanks for checking out the video!

[@redtango75]

Honda PS pumps are a POS. Not even tears of a mermaid will save them.

[@kennethgraterol9408]

How can i wash and clean deeply de different components? And which components can i clean?

[@AutoFixYT]

You can clean everything in there except for the bearings. Don't spray brake parts cleaner at them or you'll ruin them. Everything else is good to be cleaned. Just make sure you coat everything in transmission fluid or power steering fluid before reassembling. Never reassemble this dry.

[@unebonnevie]

Great video! Thank you! I personally go the easy way and buy an aftermarket pump, which is around $100-$129.

[@AutoFixYT]

I would have, but i wanted to get the experience of resealing this one and get a video out of it lol

[@PrivateServerSPW]

I’ve gone through two duralast autozone pumps in 2 months, good luck with that 😂

[@Rafael-je8hl]

You mentioned $21 for the bearing, and the seals were probably $15-25... I might just buy a whole refurbished pump + reservoir for $55 off eBay. Great video thou!

[@AutoFixYT]

Honestly it's worth buying the new pump. The only reasons i made this video and rebuilt this pump was because 1. I wanted to learn how to rebuild a PS pump, 2. I wanted to make a video for people to see, 3. I wanted to experiment and see if I can make this pump last longer even though it was not happy.

[@windwalk8970]

does that bearing work for a 2002 power pomp ?

[@AutoFixYT]

Yup it should but always double check with the dealer

[@triggerfloresify]

Helpful!!

[@AutoFixYT]

Awesome!

[@certifiable3992]

At 19:35 in your video you forgot to insert the Pump Seal Spacer (large metal washer) between the Pump Seal and Ball Bearing. You can even see it still lying on your workbench, just to the left, as you assemble the pump. Because I made this same mistake, I wasted another hour having to disassemble and reassemble my power steering pump to get it right. AAARGH! Also, as per the CRV Service Manual, you cannot use anything but Honda power steering fluid to lubricate the parts as you assemble the pump. Silicone paste could likely gum up the Pump Vanes you had to put back together and the Flow Control Valve.

[@AutoFixYT]

Not sure what you are referring to, I did not have a metal spacer. What you are pointing to is a metal cover for the bearing which popped off the old bearing. At around 15:40 i show that it's on the new bearing.. it's all pressed together. If you have a CRV, this being an Accord, there is no guarantee that the pumps are identical. As for the fluid, yeah I get it Honda PS fluid is best for them. But other fluid works just fine. You could say the same thing about any other fluids in a car.

[@ruthlessmofo]

Did you come across some white grease when removing the pulling and viewing the orange bearing?

[@blueridgedsia]

you can wrap the bearing in a wet rag and heat it up in a microwave to around 200f about 20-30s to fit it onto the shaft

[@AutoFixYT]

Interesting idea, thanks for sharing!

[@DeLosAngeles_24]

I have Honda Civic 1993 2 door. Genuine Honda 91048-P2A-003 Ball Bearing can fit 1993 ?

[@AutoFixYT]

Not sure, but you can check online or call Honda and ask

[@DeLosAngeles_24]

@@AutoFixYT thank you sir by the way good video

[@eaglehigh-h3e]

very good video...

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you

[@dennisverduz6289]

👍❤

[@MrSmitty6969]

Mine had one !!!

[@ungkiwira1903]

For civic 2000 bearing code 6203 ??

[@AutoFixYT]

I have no idea, sorry. Check rockauto.com

[@leoandhannah123456]

If I havent already mentioned this jobs gonna make a mess.. This jobs gonna make a mess Haha

[@AutoFixYT]

Haha I didn't show this on video but cleaning the pump housing was the messiest part. There was so much gunky buildup....

[@machineman6498]

👍

[@samirhabbaki477]

90 percent the noise issue from vanes and cylinder around and aluminium who lay the vanes when turn up for pressure,,, they must polished before

[@angelisone]

What could it be? 2000 Honda Civic with hard to turn the steering wheel when starting off. Meaning, turn the wheel to the left or right will required muscle power. Notes: 1. Tire air pressure correct 2. New Honda power steering fluid 3. New tires, yes it's correct sizes 4. From standstill to low speed, very hard to turn steering wheel

[@AutoFixYT]

If it's making a squealing noise then your belt is shot or you PS pump is severly worn. If it's not squealing then your PS pump is shot and can't make pressure when cold. Happens often with old pumps. Needs a rebuild with new veins and seals or just buy a new or rebuilt pump and that should fix your issue

[@u.s.lawyer8542]

You can by a high quality brand new power steering pump for a 2003 Honda Accord for less than $40. I purchased one 5 years ago and it is it still working like the original. Why spend time and money rebuilding one?

[@AutoFixYT]

I just wanted to rebuild it is the honest answer. I wanted to get the experience and know that I can do it, plus I wanted to see how it's all put together.

[@miguelrivera827]

Like it but why not show the number part for the seals

[@AutoFixYT]

Because it's all in the description already

[@vernonbosshard9317]

Man I cringed when you hit the shaft threads with a steel hammer, don't do it please. even with the nut on there, thats asking for trouble.

[@victormotorsports06]

No that is completely the right way to do it

[@vernonbosshard9317]

@@victormotorsports06 Is that why he said not to use a steel hammer in the video? Mic the shaft then beat on it with a steel hammer and tell me it measures the same after.

[@MrSmitty6969]

You forgot the spacer that goes behind the bearing ! Ooop's

[@AutoFixYT]

I don't think I had a spacer... otherwise I would have had it left over at the end on my work bench

[@certifiable3992]

@@AutoFixYT Yes, at 19:40 in your video you forgot to insert the Pump Seal Spacer (large metal washer) between the Pump Seal and Ball Bearing. You can even see it still lying on your workbench, just to the left, as you reassemble the pump. Because I made this same mistake, I wasted another hour having to disassemble and reassemble my power steering pump to get it right. AAARGH!

[@R50_J0]

Not a great idea contaminating the power steering fluid with silicone grease. Use PS fluid instead.

[@AutoFixYT]

The amount that it will acruallu get contaminated with is so small it's basically nothing, so it will be just fine.

[@stuarthardee5510]

Buy a bearing puller it's cheaper than the shaft!

[@AutoFixYT]

Or you can just be careful when you hammer lol but yeah a bearing puller would be the right tool.

[@jessejames96]

Great attempt but far too many cringe worthy parts in this video. Hammering the shaft ends, threaded and smooth ends is terrible idea. Use a proper press not a hammer. Must be careful not to scar or gall the aluminum housing with screwdriver or other pry tool when removing old seals. Dumping the vanes out when pump assembly fell apart is a great way to keep the pump from working properly. The vanes are worn from going in the same direction and need to stay in the same groove they were in and in the same direction. One side of the vane is rounded and one side is flat. Mixing them up and installing them in the incorrect direction can cause noise, pressure or premature wear premature pump failure . The valve and c clip should be removed to clean inside and underneath in case there is dirt or debris. You should also drain and flush old fluid out before installing pump. Nice attempt with video but too many mistakes that potentially will cause some do-it-yourselfers to the damage pump, cause excessive noise and premature pump failure. I give it a D+

[@AutoFixYT]

@jessejames96 didn't know i was being graded on this. Thanks for the feedback. Just FYI, no damage was done to the pump, it runs fine with no leaks, car is still in the family and in circulation to this day. Never had to go back and address anything in regards to the pump. I am aware of all the things you commended about. But as you could see, basic tools was the only option I had. As for the veins, I'm pretty sure I mentioned their direction. They all went back the right way. The wear on them was very clear, the pump had over 200k miles on it. All in all, just because it wasn't done like the book says, doesn't mean it wasn't done well or right. That's my personal takeaway from situations like this. Also, learning to adapt is better than plainly following instructions.

[@richardfabrizio8998]

Buy a new one

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah I could have. But I wanted to learn and rebuild it myself this time.

[@1marcelfilms]

do not buy those 2 in 1 snap ring pliers they SUCK!!!!!! you might as well put the money in the trash.

[@AutoFixYT]

They're not the best but they worked when i needed them. Only good for small snap rings.

[@airplanemechanic5561]

You need a vise, and a rubber mallet. Just dont buy anything made in china.

[@AutoFixYT]

Agreed lol

[@Floorskin69]

is this the same power steering pump on the 09 accord?

[@AutoFixYT]

I don't know but regardless it'll be very similar if it isn't the same.