BMW 330i 325i E46 CCV Replace & Intake Removal DIY (Part 1) - See It Clearly! P0171 P0174 Repair

[@chicagocars]

For anyone who is planning on doing this, don't panic. The steps are overwhelming but can be done, you just need time and Patience. I did mine today and took 8hrs, i know...thats a lot. But for someone who is new to diy mechanics, I'm pretty happy with the results. I would like to thanks The50's kid for is great tutorial, could not have done it without it!!!

[@samd7476]

I've been trying to chase down these random misfire episodes that happen when idling. It's been a real annoyance. I visited one mechanic shop I found. They ran the code reader and told me the Crankshaft Position Sensor needed replacing. I had an appointment to go ahead and let him replace it. I got there at my appointed time to find no one at the shop at all. I called them and revisited them the following day with still no luck. I then went around and emailed different shops. Everyone told me they either didn't work on BMWs at all or only did minor tune-ups. I'm on the edge of just tearing almost everything down and replacing parts one by one instead of just waiting for parts to tell me it needs replacing. There's a lot of things I don't know, but I guess I'll just have to find out how with the help of repair manuals and KZbin.

[@edbanks713]

@@samd7476 this is exactly how i feel i bought a 05 325i for 1500 and paid almost the same in the times ive taken to shop

[@jawzzo6761]

@@samd7476 im there got a 2001 320ci and after a mere 3 or so months of driving it around. So much needs doing to it lol, its been on my driveway 50% of ownership. looks like il be spending more on repairs than the price i bought it for . good luck

[@KurtisSaiyo]

@@samd7476 I've been chasing a misfire too. Replaced ignition coils (easy), replaced the fuel pump (easy), rebuilt the Vanos (and all the replaced the spark plugs and BOTH camshaft position sensors while I was in there. Camshaft sensors can be replaced without removing your valve cover). All new gaskets and seals on anything I removed. My misfire is most likely related to the vacuum leak. I haven't finished this job yet, but I'll update after when everything back together.

[@Eastbayfitteds_]

@@KurtisSaiyo probably mass air flow sensor or fuel filter underneath the car

[@stephenheichelbech9316]

50s kid: Thank you so much for your videos. I was able to replace the CCV over a 10 day (following your video to a "T" and ordering all replacement parts/correct tools. I really appreciate you doing this: you've saved me thousand of dollars. *** A note: When I fired the car back up, the ABS, DCS lights came on. I checked on KZbin for those areas and the fix was to: put the car in "N" and turn the wheels left and right....I guess air bubbles where in there? Bam, lights went out in about 8-10 seconds. Once again, you are the best and thank you very much for the video/s.

[@tonys4751]

I just completed this job because I had a leaky water pipe under the intake manifold and a CCV covered with oil. This was a well edited video that is riddled with insight and information. Every detail must be followed otherwise you'll waste hours if you follow your intuition. It took me a period of ten days (after day job, weekends) but was about a 16 hour effort. Unfortunately, there is nothing repetitive about the job, each step has a different challenge and you must be careful to not break things( e.g., electrical connections, DISA valve, throttle components) in the process of removing and installing. I experienced two very difficult issues that I never thought would take 7 hours of my effort and a couple of notes not addressed in the videos. 1. The ground wire that looks like a O2 sensor took me 4 hours to figure out how to connect to the intake manifold bracket. Look carefully how 50sKid tilts the manifold in order to hook it. Intuitively you think you can do it after the manifold is mounted but you can't because the casting on the engine block and the starter motor are in the way. You must insert prior to mounting intake. (Part 2 of his video) 2. The second delay I experienced was the installation of the fuel rail. I did it per the video (Part 2) but my injectors didn't line up and I could not insert the clip correctly. I knew something was wrong when my engine cover did not align with rail holes Had to undo work which is difficult and time consuming, but had to do it to see what was really going on. For what ever reason my injectors seemed too short, so I removed my injectors and attached them to the fuel rail first and then inserted into intake all at once and enough for o-rings to attach firmly into manifold. 3. 50sKid is very detailed but doesn't show the removal of the two connections that are in front of the engine. They are connections that run between the power steering reservoir and oil filter. 4.Car had a rough start after job was completed but computer eventually got everything squared. My car even stalled as I went around the block for testing. Started up again gave the car some more time. Two hours later no check engine light and car running like a champ. This video saved me about $2500 in labor, not including parts My DISA was falling apart, my CCV and respective connections were a mess, vacuum lines had holes, and both water pipes and hoses needed replacement. My intake gasket was as thin as paper. I spent $500 dollars in parts, so I know mechanics would of had a field day with me and justifiably so. There is a lot of work involved. Thank you 50sKid! Look forward to other videos. Would like to see you tackle steering and suspension issues and maintenance.

[@jayb6769]

Hello TonyS, My name is Joe from Boston, im stuck. I have everything back together an started it up. Its extremely rough and stalls out an thats only in parked/Neutral. I do have a broken CCV breather though, the 90° connector broke in half while i removed the manifold. I have all my connectors in place. Would the stall be from incorrect placement of connectors or from the huge vacuum leave of a broken Breather CCV? Any help is great help. Thanks

[@myxipitlik2]

Thanks for the additional input based on your experience. Your additional information is invaluable

[@myxipitlik2]

Just wanted to thank you again Tony, I just did this work this weekend (also to replace the leaking coolant on the heater pipe under the manifold) and your additional advise on how to re-install the fuel rail was really helpful. I would also add that if someone is doing this with a car over 200K miles on it should consider replacing the o-rings on the injectors (there a 2 per injector and they are about $6 each OEM) including the manifold orange gaskets and the throttle body gasket. Mine was already hard but not brittle. My car had 215K on it.

[@MexChefXpress]

Great feedback still useful after years of being posted!! I just started so cant wait to be completed.

[@tonys4751]

@@jayb6769 I’m sorry I missed this. No doubt your broken CCV would cause issues. I’m curious if all worked out.

[@Dame25]

Sir, YOU SAVED MY WALLET AND MY LIFE with this video. I fixed all of my vacuum leaks and my car purrs like a kitten now. My level of confidence for getting deeper into my engine has increased tremendously. Now that I have done this, I’ve noted several other jobs that I want to undertake to fix my 2004 325CI. Thank you!!

[@cassconner6023]

I got the exact same car as you. How's your's holding up?

[@joseph_the_human]

cool! I have the same car as you as well, any updates?

[@bladesblammer8810]

What happens if I forget to plug that? 23:50

[@geekpilotsoundworks3201]

just did the procedure on my 330 just like you've shown on the video. Went like a cakewalk, took about 4 hours. Fixed the rich condition and rough running when starting cold. MIL light is out. 50sKid, you are the best. :)

[@BTNHarmony18]

50s kid, couldn’t have done it without you. A couple critiques and words to the wise. I greatly regretted not marking my electrical harnesses. It takes mere seconds to set up a key system with duct type. Just mark both the female and male connectors with 01 or A, whatever. Putting everything back together will be much simpler. Also, it is very important as you go to mark plastic baggies with wear the bolts/nuts come from. Again, this makes everything so much easier and less stressful on the backend. I had some trouble identifying vacuum lines because they were already severed. If any one needs help on that just message me. Lastly, I did not remove my fuel rail, I simply pushed it to the back, worked fine. Thanks for you me hard work buddy.

[@o.otakulife6905]

So you dont have to remove the fuel rail?

[@grahambanks3256]

Big day today, Some TLC for my chariot - 2001 325i 133K kilometres, full cooling system refresh (except heater core), all new gaskets and vacuum lines, CCV, crankshaft sensor and both camshaft sensors, clutch fan delete, OFHG, Oil and filter change, Transmission oil/filter change and pressure valve update..... 11 hours to do the job including fixing things that broke when I tried to remove them... the plastic pipes under the intake manifold broke when I tried to move them. But all worth while, the old girl is running like a Swiss watch now. My thanks to those who put up videos especially the 50sKid....I appreciate your efforts Jason, makes it easier when you know what to expect and how to do it... saved myself about AU$1.5k in labour charges.

[@johnnyhernandez9821]

Been a mechanic about 40 years. But never worked on BMW. But now that I own one it's a must. Ur information was very helpful and explained perfect as I went through the process. Great job👍 Thank you

[@Purvis513]

I've been working on a BMW that would misfire on start and idle badly. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, and then it only misfired at idle with fuel cut-off (P1343 and P1351). I didn't think it could be a vacuum leak from a cracked CCV until I watched this video. I checked under the engine, and sure enough, the CCV is covered in oil (along with half my face lol). So, now I need to immediately replace the CCV system. I can swap that then hope it will idle smooth again. If nothing else, I'll know the CCV is not going to cause problems! Thank you 50sKid for this video! It's a great resource for us DIY mechanics.

[@rafd3665]

Wow, thank you sir!!! Your videos are the BEST! I love how you think and explain your thought process. I'm an engineer and I really appreciate your rigorous and detailed approach. You are making quite a difference in the world helping us to cope with the crazy BMW implementation of it's exotic engineering ideas (and vulnerable, inadequate plastic and rubber hoses, clips and seals!!!).

[@paulkatieglenn6065]

I just did this and I can’t believe the car works perfectly. Tried to do it without taking off the intake but it was impossible. Thank goodness for your video. It was pretty easy. I am shocked I completed this repair all by myself! Thank you.

[@bobdobbs4224]

"This car is perfect" he said, "you won't have to do anything for the next 5 years but change the oil!" He said...2 days after I bought the damn things the service engine soon light came on, codes say it's a pcv valve, also has the far right vacuum line broken off. Your video's are saving me money & sanity. Thank you so much.

[@Tammar101]

I've been having p0171 - p0174 for about a year and I searched all over KZbin and Google for CCV guiding video and couldn't find any, until you uploaded those two awesome videos. I'm planning to do the job tomorrow as I have received my parts today. thank you so much for the videos.

[@hpowens]

I decided to just push the BMW off of a cliff instead.

[@useyonina_]

I'm getting close

[@flipvdfluitketel867]

Did it make a stuka sound?

[@jonathanhalterman7634]

If you find a good cliff let me know

[@useyonina_]

Don't hate appreciate

[@piemannnnnnnnnnnnnnn]

Better option imo

[@myxipitlik2]

Just want to say thank you Jason for your video, It was very helpful when I had to do this job over the weekend to replace the leaking heater pipe under the manifold. Your video is spot on and very detailed, there were no surprises. It's rare to find someone who is very knowledgeable, detailed and excellent camera & editing skills. You saved me a ton of $$ again, so thanks! To other people doing this job, consider what TonyS mentioned on an alternative way to install the injectors and if your car has over 200k, consider replacing the o-rings on the injectors and the manifold orange rubber gasket as well as they were already hard on my car.

[@ryanreacher2264]

got it!!! it was the bigger connector to the throttle body was not locked in place . man I was so happy to see it ,put everything back in place ran like charm. Thanks to the 50's kid you rock.

[@tinajohnson371]

Just finished this job on my 2000 e46, no codes by lots of oil leaking. My CCV was toast! Your videos were invaluable. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

[@dannymatthews855]

I want to thank you for your excellent, detailed and user friendly videos. This video outlined every detail telling me what to watch for and how to proceed at each step. There are a lot of KZbin videos on the BMW e46 but none that equal yours in quality and content. Thanks again for saving me hours of work.

[@AlexanderJacks]

Just wanted to thank you. The last 2 weekends I replaced my vanos rings and replaced my broken lower oil separator pipe. A lot of work, but your attention to details and calling out tools needed was fantastic.👍

[@cya3651]

Thank you so MUCH for all your E46 videos! Your step by step tutorial and Torque spec mentioned are so helpful. watched video couple times, took notes and took pictures on Iphone during the process just in case. The job itself was not difficult at all. I have also done the OIL PAN gasket and transmission gasket replacement with your videos. i have to say, the OIL PAN gasket was the hardest job ever, but now i know what to do in order to get the engine re-align with the bolts and sub-frame. Could not have done any of this without your vids. Thank you so much!!

[@deanr7876]

Hey 50sKid, thanks for all the careful detail! It was very helpful. I just completed the job, could not have done it without this video. I did not remove the intake manifold because your video educated me in knowing how it all came together.

[@50sKid]

awesome!

[@paddymccune8512]

Best mechanic on youtube

[@bearbackattack]

Dude, I did this while watching your video 11-16 times in a row. My car is all good now! Thanks a million!

[@marcwoodward8056]

50sKid You are spot on about struggling to get everything back in without removing the intake. I learned that lesson the first time I changed my CCV & hoses. Took me all day with my fat hands and I still don't believe I got the hose that connects on the left side of the CCV with a locking collar fully locked since I couldn't see or really feel it. After blowing my head gasket I decided to do the gasket change myself. I couldn't believe how easy and fast I got the intake manifold out & how easy it was to reach the CCV & all the hoses!! After the rebuild I was throwing a couple lean codes & my mechanic said it was probably a fouled CCV & to change it out. I already had the cold weather version I had bought for the rebuild but didn't install it cuz I thought the old one was still good...lesson learned. To install the CCV this time I disconnected the manifold and flipped it up to change the CCV out. Having removed my intake components a few times already I got thru this job in about 2 hours! This is the way to go. As you pointed out in the video you have to be careful with removal/install of the 10mm nuts that hold the manifold to the engine. I lost a couple myself during the rebuild & had to order new ones. Taking them off this time I loosened to the end of the stud and used a pick up magnet to turn them off the last couple turns. I used a piece of electrical tape to hold the nuts into my socket to put them back on. I wish your video had been up a couple years ago when I changed the CCV the first time. Thanx for posting. This is the only way to do it if you have big hands and can't get them into that tight ass space to lock the left side hose into the CCV so you don't have leaks. Thanx again!!

[@chuckviladevall8437]

Thank you soooo much 50's Kid! This video AND Part 2 helped IMMENSELY! I needed to replace the CCV and hard coolant lines...I kept a laptop on the workbench and referred to the vids often! Not only with the information invaluable...the the narration, video quality, and camera angles were exceptionally superb! Keep up the GREAT work!

[@LIOTBs]

Great production value, thank you. Thanks for the different angles, "b-role", and closeups. Also, thank you for going through the struggle (getting the tube on) as well to show options. Also, thanks for showing us how to clean properly as well and not just talking about it.

[@rtwilliams1961]

Just wanted to let you know your video was awesome and accurate! I just got done doing the CCV replacement. Saved a friend of mine $800.00 in labor costs. They wanted $150.00 for the CCV kit. The CCV kit was $40.00 online.

[@aor3200]

You can buy nordic model CCV (insulated parts) whole kit for 50 dollars, from your official BMW dealer. There is kit available. Genuine parts.

[@elizcepeda2146]

Thank you so much for your videos. Just bought my first Bmw and determine to learn to do the maintenance my self since I had a bad experience with an 05 A6. Never done more than oil change and spark plugs. I'm getting code p0174 inspected the car and notice the drain tube from the ccv was cracked closed to coming off. After looking at lots of info & videos, yours gave me the confidence to tackle this. Just got it done this morning and glad I did it since the drain hose was clogged. Your videos are easy to follow. Next VCG. Thank You!

[@herrbrahms]

Having just reattached the fuel rail and injectors, I have some recommendations: First, you can pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached if you leave the clips on. That way you don't risk contamination in the fuel system. If you want to replace injectors or the upper o rings, detach them at the bench. Also, don't bother detaching the fuel hose from the fuel rail. Instead, pull the other side of that hose off at the fuel filter output. It's under the car next to the left lower control arm bushing, and the access is loads better. You're going to have to pull your skid plate off for this job anyway most likely, since you'll drop things down on top of it that are hard to recover with a telescoping magnet. Pull the rail, injectors, and hose off as one connected piece. The hose attaches to two brackets between its ends. One goes to the intake manifold near the firewall. You can't see it from above, so detach that connection from below. There's also an attachment to the dipstick bracket. Reattach the fuel hose to both the manifold and the dipstick from below during reassembly. Some people say it's possible to leave the fuel rail on the manifold when you remove it, but I wouldn't do that for these reasons. The manifold is dirty and the fuel system needs to stay clean. You have to wrestle with the manifold and turn it all over to disassemble and reassemble the CCV system. Finally, the manifold to head nuts are a lot easier to access without dodging the fuel rail.

[@emergencylowmaneuvering7350]

Thanks a lot for your help. You have saved thousands of bimmers from the junkyard..

[@myxipitlik2]

Your video helped me a lot when I replaced my CCV last year. I did not have to take the intake manifold out but because you've shown how to connect the hose from the oil separator on 25:53. I also think that using an OEM parts made the installation easier because of better fitment than some after market parts.

[@T1374]

I did my entire cooling system but I'm thinking a shop should do this for me as I might break something. I've done some work on my car thanks to you and your videos man.

[@nathansullivan5707]

Awesome video got my ccv out and reinstalled, it gave me a chance to fix Disa valve also . I cleared the codes and has ran better than the day I got it .

[@ttinnovations3310]

Just replace the PCV and starter in my 2003 bmw 330ci thanks for the video, It was SUPER HELPFUL !!! prob saved me 2-4 extra hours, Thank You Thank You !!! AWSOME Videos

[@ynebogatov]

Terrific instructional videos! I've watched a bunch of vids on ccv replacement and other maintenance how-tos, yours are by far the clearest and most useful. Thanks a bunch!

[@kevinVersus]

Just finished this job. It seems overwhelming at first but just follow the steps and all will be fine. I have a Canadian model and noticed some differences, a vac line or two and a wire connector he had that I don't. After putting everything back together and starting the car it still ran shitty. I checked a plug on the back of the manifold that I new was brittle and split and taped it up snug and slid it back on, now she runs pretty good. MAF might need cleaning.. not sure though. Anyway, thank you 50's Kid. You're a hero

[@SLASHMANISM]

love the video great quality tells me everything i need to know and more.. im so tired of random videos starting with the part removed or skipping the entire removal. I really appreciate you putting time into this so they viewers can understand completely. Now going into this job with a lot of confidence!!

[@bigal4061]

For whatever reason I can't find a video that mentions this but something that helped me a lot while doing this is there's a bracket that holds the electrical box it's held on by two t25's if you take those out and remove that bracket you can see clean through the other side where you're putting the hose to the CCV valve it helped me a lot that way I wasn't guessing working blind and I also removed the power steering reservoir the two-13 bolts took them out push it to the side took off the bracket and it made everything so much easier (if your replacing CCV with manifold on)

[@craigdavisatl]

These videos are awesome. I changed my valve cover gasket, plugs, oil filter housing gasket, coolant, vacuum hoses, DISA valve o-ring, and CCV oil separator to dip stick hose with the help of these videos. Was leaking oil all over, P0171 and P0174 codes, were coming up. all cured for less than $200 in parts. Also changed the thermostat, idler pulley. and fan clutch a month ago. probably saved $5k on my 2003 330ci. Thanks 50sKid! One note, instead of taking on the whole CCV job, try changing out just that broken hose he mentions, it's all I did and problem solved. Took about 30 minutes.

[@xaviermclaurin7997]

Craig Davis how bad was your oil leak? Cause I have the same codes, my car idles rough when I start it and it has a badass oil leak

[@craigdavisatl]

Xavier Mclaurin it was leaking significantly, and once I got into it, was from the valve cover, oil filter housing, and possibly the oil pan. I didn't do the oil pan since it is a bigger job and you need to raise the engine (see 50skid video). If it is running rough with those codes u likely have a vacuum leak. I would recommend following the videos for the valve cover gasket, the likely causes of those 2 p codes video, and see if that hose from the CCV housing to dip stick return is broken. All those are possible causes and are fairly easy to repair. Give that CCV hose replacement a try before you try replacing the whole CCV assembly, that is a bitch of a job.

[@ryandelacruz4868]

Craig i need your help, i have those codes also , the too lean codes. What do i do? & where do i get the parts for less than 200$?

[@jwiswall]

Just finished the job for the second time. Removing the Intake is the only way to go, trying to jam a cold weather kit in with the manifold in place is too difficult. I ended up cracking the middle between the cyclone and the diaphragm on install. These directions are perfect! and yanking the manifold is pretty simple. Have your gaskets and a new CCV kit ready to go, and you'll have everything right in a few hours. Thanks!!!!!

[@shodin10k59]

Hey 50s, I just wanted to say thank you to your instructional video. My dad and I just did this project, and it worked out great.

[@aspectcarl]

excellent video, thank you for making this. I was able to fit the CCV without removing the manifold this was possible in part due to steps and precautions in your video. couple of recommendations to add, after removing the dipstick and it's o ring pop a bit of clean garage towel into the dipstick hole and if choosing to fit the CCV without removing the manifold then apply a small amount of lubricant to the hose joint between the cam cover and the CCV this will assist greatly when pushing that hose into the separator, with the limited space and the o ring the joint is a real pain until you lube it and then it clicks home nicely. last job to do now is refit the dipstick which proving a struggle - onto part 2 to watch your recommendation

[@50sKid]

+Carl Richards Awesome, very awesome. Yeah I remember that my tubes were extremely difficult to fit together when I first got them. I inserted and removed them several times to squish the o-rings a bit before installing them. I guess I didn't put that part in the video.

[@SirFrancoQ]

50’s kid, you are one awesome tutor ! Thanks for sharing your brilliant expertise! 🙌👏

[@TrollBot-dv1rk]

Part one finished, now I have to wait for my new ccv to get here. Awesome video, never worked on a Bimmer before, actually very fun car to work on so far. Thanks again for the awesome video.

[@chrisnichols9830]

50skid, i wanted to tell you that your video helped me out tremendously. I did the job on my 02 330i 162k. did the ccv, looked at the starter brushes with very little wear , all new vac lines, all new coolant lines, alternator brushes and a bunch of other stuff. I may go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket idk yet. Thanks for the video. it was very easy to follow and I wanted to personally say thank you!

[@50sKid]

Thanks!

[@petervankas1352]

Hi from England Really good video.Got under my 330 today after buying cheap as engine light was on and managed to get to the pipe you said would be most likely broken and sure enough it was broke .Managed to repair with small bit of hose and 3 cable ties Fantastic result in 10 mins all codes cleared .Very greatful for all you're vids ,Cheers

[@sjgorey]

great video. Just replaced the ccv on my E46. couldn't have done it without these videos. I live in Maine. I got the cold weather kit. it was installing fine until I tried to body of the kit to the intake manifold. the foam insulation was too bulky. It wouldn't fit. The one that came off the car didn't have the foam insulation so I took it off the new one. I didn't want to, but everything i tried didn't work. After removing the foam insulation, the system went back together without a problem. Thanks again. Steve

[@50sKid]

Interesting, you're saying there was foam around the oil separator itself? It was my understanding that it just had a bigger plastic housing?

[@sjgorey]

Yes, foam on the valve. I got the part from bavarian autosport on the internet. part number 53194

[@lefora87]

you are my favorite mechanic on youtube. God bless u man for your efforts.

[@MrDjconquest]

Your video's have rejuvenated my love for these BMW series. Just completed my repairs also, thank you.

[@MrSubieracer]

Thank you so much for this video. I finally gave myself the entire weekend to do this before the Pennsylvania winter arrives. I shall see if this fixes my excessive oil consumption on my 2003 325xi. I appreciate your time and effort in making this video. Thanks, man!

[@donatoe78]

Thanks man. You're right. I'm in the process of replacing the ccv on my wife's 2005 BMW X5 and it's hard enough doing it with manifold off. Thanks a lot. I really like your videos, especially those which shows where you made some mistakes and show how you corrected them. You're for real dude.

[@bjersery]

Brother thank you for this video, you took your time and made this process so much easier than I thought it was going to be.

[@pnw_r6]

Thank you so much dude. Used this today on my wife's car and it worked so well.

[@jawzzo6761]

man i wish my car was as easy to work on as yours... seems like no one has ever replaced these parts.. such a pain in the arse but thank you for these videos! a massive help

[@michaelskowronek6253]

Thank you for the videos, I purchased a E46 in pieces and your how to videos were a major part in getting it running again

[@leefalvey9670]

Thanks for the valuable info, replacing 3.0 on a x5 with my son. got it out and in out the top, but had to take transfer case off to put new motor in. steering linkage obstructed installation. Great videos

[@skipperga]

I’m already breathing in a brown paper bag! I can see me now; I would start this job speaking only on language - but by the time I finished the job, I would be fluent in 15 other languages!

[@DIABOLICOHAVOC]

what you did at 26:20 is the correct and fastest way to install that hose but, the oil separator "must" be bolted to the manifold in order for that to work. There is no other way to do it while the manifold is still attached. Great video!

[@gnomebmw]

Don't forget the upgraded COLD WEATHER oil dipstick tube. It is not usually included in the cold weather CCV kit (which I had done 3 years ago but I found later I had the factory oil dipstick tube, which the CCV drains into and can easily get blocked). I ordered the genuine BMW part, and had it installed with a new oil O-ring to connect it to the oil pan (very very hard to get the O ring to seat properly).

[@50sKid]

Ah, good tip.

[@renragged]

20:42 I took off the 2 plastic pipes to inspect them. Both were cracked and fell apart, leaving the end pieces (both pipes did this) with the o-rings stuck inside the engine block. I had to dig them out with picks and screwdrivers. I had no idea they were in THAT bad of shape. I'm glad I pulled them out to inspect them or I might have put everything back together only to have to take it all apart again once they started leaking coolant.

[@EchoPmh]

Very helpful video... saved me considerable money ($1k+) & learned a lot by doing this & other repairs from some of your other videos while I had the engine apart. Really appreciate the quality of the video & insights!!

[@toddt7294]

Thanks for the videos tons of help !!! saved me from sleepless nights trying to remember how everything goes back together

[@leonvdm]

Thank you for clear explanation. Got the job done few days ago. 26:12 was the way to go. did it without taking the intake manifold off. THANKS> I suspected the ccv to be the reason for excessive oil consumption. If it doenst get better than maybe i go the catch can way. (but first ill do the oil filter housing gasket.)

[@wilfredocartagena5301]

I was really impressed with the work you did,explanation it was so clear, great camara thank you so much. that was a lot of help, great job

[@jenxy4014]

Wilfredo Cartagena w

[@wattywattz3494]

Wilfredo Cartagena my 325i wont accelerate up some maintainance ramps and cog light is on... any info?

[@ajm9249]

I didn't want to post until i knew i was running good, but immediately after my 184k, 330ci sounded like it was brand new. Thanks to 50sKid and a lot of cans of silicone, electric and MAF cleaners, I was able to take off my intake manifold and clean everything. My DISA valve O Ring was molded and melted onto itself, the Electronic box is the perfect puzzle piece to figure out. Take note of the vacuum lines you remove and replace them all. This was my first "huge job" ( Is what people would say) but it felt like time well spent. My advice would be to get lumbar support straps, mosquito repellent and a stretch magnet tool thing. Also 3 , 6 10inch extensions dont hurt either. When you replace the intake boots dont forget the coupling connector! It's harder plastic so i shouldve got my old one but i had to grab one from the pick and pull. Overall the project took me about a day of work. 2 days of time spent in total. My body is sore, but the reward of feeling that drive was so worth it.

[@lesbonnett3801]

I REALLY appreciate your videos. Watching you, I've replaced the valve cover, oil pan and oil filter gaskets. So helpful. This is my next venture.

[@scoobysisco9079]

Seriously want to thank you for the videos you make. I just had to replaced my starter and the shop wanted over $700 to do it. Wouldn’t have been able to do this without your videos. I love how detailed they are. You rock.

[@herrfinke1]

$700?? How about $1300 here in NJ!! Yes. Thanks 50skid!

[@bladesblammer8810]

What happens if I forget to plug that? 23:50

[@pereiracycles]

These vids are excellent! Thanks for the help. This job was daunting, but now that I've done it I'd agree that it's not that big a deal. Knowing how the injector wires detach was a little tricky, but your vid helped a lot. I've got a '99 E39 with the M52TU and have something to add: There are two fuel lines and not enough room to remove them from the fuel rail on the rail side. You can disconnect them where they meet the hard lines and it give you enough room to move the rails out of the way.

[@50sKid]

Thanks for adding that!

[@benedict6821]

I'm 80% done on my 1999 M52TUB20. will be finishing in the morning. My throttle valve also has a cable and i didnt want to mess with it so i just left it connected to the haness. I also have a vacuum line from the back of the manifold going under the car. Im assuming its going to the exhaust flap. Also the vacuum port on the CCV (which is capped in the video at 23:50) mine goes up to the fuel pressure regulator which is on the fuel rail

[@gabrielito88]

I just did the ccv replacement job without removing the intake manifold. I found it easier to fish the hose from above and then fit the hose to the ccv positioned horizontally and then twist it into place.

[@Jake98Cob]

fantastic video!!! thank you! too many people try to do how to videos and leave so many steps out. kudos bro!

[@50sKid]

Thanks!

[@diondreykeelin86]

i got a 2001 330i idles rough now this video is going to help me out alot thanks so much.

[@ericryckman1559]

If you have a 1999-2000 323i with the m52tu, it has an m52 engine with an m54 head. It has 2 lines connected to the fuel rail instead of 1. For the love of god 🙏, mark or label them before disconnecting with the corresponding fuel rail connection. Otherwise, you can say goodbye to half a day, 🎉trying to trace those lines to find which is in and which is out. Good luck. I am taking my intake out for the second time. Gotta ❤ BMW 😂 Life in plastic, it's fantastic . . . Thanks for the invaluable content, as always.

[@KurtisSaiyo]

I'm working in a 325 and there's a few differences from this awesome upload that might be helpful to 325 folks. 1) Oil dipstick bolt is not conveniently located on top of the structural member, it's behind and you cannot get to it without lifting the vehicle, removing the splash guards/skid plates and fishing a long wrench in through the wheel well. Not fun. 2) the oil dipstick tube popped up, but I could not fish it around to get it out because it got hung up on the coolant lines. However it being loose allowed enough room to move the electronics box/harness out of the way. 3) My fuel line did not pop up from behind the intake manifold like his did, there's actually a plastic clip that you have to blindly unclip with your fingernail in order to fully unmount the fuel line from the manifold. 4) The plastic retaining clips holding in the shield around the break booster, those fly if you just loosen and yank. I would suggest fully removing these clips before. 5) As 50sKid suggests, my hose clamps were upside-down on the intake ducting to the throttle. Very time consuming too loosen these and you really have to yank and wiggle to get it to break free of the throttle once the bands are loose.

[@thevirtualstreetlife5826]

I own a 323ci, I'm doing this job. Not once did I have to lift the vehicle, we both have the 2.5 motor. What made you lift your vehicle?

[@KurtisSaiyo]

@@thevirtualstreetlife5826 doesn't look like KZbin allows photos in responses. But essentially his bolt head is shown on top of the structural member (at time stamp 5:11), mine was sideways facing the rear of the vehicle and there's no way to get a ratchet in there, and if you could you might get one tooth of play on a 90 tooth. This is the best photo I could get, you can see the dip stick tube guide mounting bolt head in the foreground on the bottom left of this photo: photos.app.goo.gl/LtZgUidC4KFWFEP56 View from the top, there's no bolt head there: photos.app.goo.gl/Dnt5T4YGy1S18Hu2A I have a 325xi, don't know if that make any difference. Even the Bentley manual doesn't mention a difference (page 119-12).

[@joachimhanhart6782]

with small long hands, I managed to stick the two new hoses down as much as possible from above the intake. Then holding the CCV unit with the right hand near its final location, grabbing with the left hand the short tube from the left underneath the intake. Then give it a push. Secure the lower end of the straight tube with the right hand to its connection on the CCV, then give push on the upper end with your left hand. Fasten the CCV tight. Pretty easy.

[@mikepace8983]

Nice Videos. The dealership did my CCV and after watching your video, I am not missing it. I am, however, looking forward to replacing my oil filter housing gasket. I will review your video for that one before I begin. Thanks,

[@jerryprize7800]

Great video! You do a really good job of providing an explanation right down to the hardware sizes.

[@jamancio3239]

Thanks for the great video. Finally changed ccv and ended up replacing all my vacuum lines too.

[@geoffguenole4100]

Great video and easy to follow. With the Euro 328i models and the brake booster etc on the opposite side it's a little different. Also the fuel lines are different as there are two lines with one being a return line. The sucking air jet pump is underneath the inlet manifold just above where the metal flap that goes down onto the engine block. The evap solenoid hose and the line to the sucking air jet pump should be fitted before the inlet manifold is put back on. By removing the panel that covers the heater fan motor I had plenty of room at the back of the engine and didn't have to disconnect the fuel lines.

[@williambirksiii9455]

Just wanted to add that he makes this look quite a bit easier than it actually is. I did this on a 330xi and I had the following issues. The junction block will continue to be a pain in the butt while unbolting the throttle body if you've never done this job before. That's because even though you will have unplugged the wires, a lot of them are still tightly zip tied to the engine and cannot be released until the manifold is unbolted. The fuel line is not that easy to disconnect. It is unlikely you will be able to push the collar in with your fingers while jammed behind the manifold and his fuel line has about 3 more inches in slack than mine did. I couldn't disconnect the fuel rail from the line until the manifold was off. The dip stick tube on an xi is way more in the way and much more difficult to remove because of the extra subframe parts. If you already have the winter CCV kit installed, the injector harness will not come off that easily. You'll have to remove the air distribution manifold to remove that top CCV line for clearance to unplug the injector harness. The insulation gets in the the way of unplugging the harness. Other notes: Consider replacing the vacuum solenoid valve he refers to at the 15:00 mark. It's not expensive and the manifold needs to be removed to remove it. I know I've seen videos where people have removed it, but I really don't know how they fit their hands in there to disconnect it from the manifold. I tried for like an hour and this is why I am removing the intake manifold. It's just easier to do it now. Replace all of the small vacuum lines too. Mine were crumbling. 1.8mm inner diameter vacuum line is cheap. Consider changing your oil filter housing gasket and VANOS oil supply line while the manifold is off. It's so much easier to get to both of these things while the manifold is off. If I remember correctly, the intake manifold MUST be removed to do the VANOS line. Both of these parts are cheap and frequent failure points. I definitely recommend just buying a few of those vacuum caps that go on the back of the manifold. They are cheap and will definitely be rotted. Not worth gluing back together with how much they cost. I'm changing my HVAC blower motor while the manifold is off because the fan squeaks in really cold weather. If you think it's on the way out, consider doing it while you have the manifold removed. Good luck, guys.

[@utube4greenfuture]

Your video's are awesome, easy to follow, full of valuable knowledge. Having to remove so many parts to fix a frick'n hose is crazy. It's almost like the engineers designed the system to keep an active revenue stream for all the labor involved.

[@danielver4484]

I've done this one time, extremely difficult and I was on the verge of giving up! Until I found a company German Solution, so I took the whole thing out and replaced it. Now it is permanently solved. The first time I did this was without removing the intake manifold.

[@PotSplashers]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm by no means mechanical but with the help of this video I was able to do this repair!

[@50sKid]

Well you are certainly mechanical now ;-)

[@Sicksneezy]

I’m about to pull the manifold out for the first time. Just finished getting the throttle body off . Taking a quick break

[@TheProjectDprojectd]

Congratulations. perfect explanation. I do not know English. I found it easy, to explain calmly, gesturing, showing with great focus. very good. just an opinion, make a list of the tools you need in writing. at the beginning of the video.

[@TheProjectDprojectd]

I used google translate to write

[@LuisVega-zw2xe]

Thank you 50sKid I'll check that to day you don't know how much I appreciate thank you again

[@lajuanwatkins7345]

thank you thank you 50s. you saved me $2k. really appreciate your work.

[@50sKid]

I always love hearing that!

[@jackhackett9916]

Juan Watkins 2k! im getting mune dobe for 400 quid

[@yuhavatnen]

That looks a bit of a nightmare. I once knew almost as much about Austin Minis a David Vizard (because I read his books). My bottom of the range Peugeot is complicated compared to an Austin Mini. I probably could afford a BMW with some of the jobs available to me. My life is complicated enough without a complicated car. I never was career minded. At 56 years it's a bit too late to think about mortgages. I'm just glad I survived a cycling accident and recovered (apparently) 30 years later. Thanks for uploading this - I often wondered how complicated BMWs etc were. I was brought up by a Victorian which may explain if I or my comment seem strange. Horses, carts and village pumps!!

[@zarrasis7129]

Thank you so much for these videos man, helped a bunch doing it this weekend. Ended up not needing to remove the intake manifold as my hands are small enough.

[@ismaelpsy9904]

All your videos are great! I'm in the process to replace the ccv hoses. Thank you!!

[@LiliaCarino]

Roberto Lopez tank you for your videos help us a lot step by step people like you help us to save money because is very very hart to find honest and fear mechanic

[@philipcovelli275]

This video is terrific. I used it to change my CCV valve on my 2001 325 CI. The only suggestion I have is that I don't think that you should blow compressed air into the open ports because chances are there are open valves which could allow debris to be forced into the combustion chambers. A better option is a good strong shop vac. All in all I think this guy knows his s**t.

[@KYinMontana]

First off love your videos and the detail you go into. It is frustrating watching other videos say do this and remove this but then they cut away and don't show you how to do it. Here's my problem, I am going through about a quart of oil every 1k miles which just recently happened. I was having to add a quart about every 5-7K depending on my driving. I'll save you the details but my hunch is failing CCV because there are no leaks under the car and I just had the oil pan gasket replaced at the dealer (say what you will but I'm not confident in lifting the engine). I've also noticed the oil pressure (red oil can light) stay on for about 1-2 seconds after starting the engine when it's been sitting for a while. I might just be neurotic about it but to me this seems very similar to the startup after doing an oil change. When the engine is hot the light goes out immediately. This makes me think the anti-drain back valve or check valve in the oil filter housing is not holding oil in the OFH. Thus i'm getting a "dry" starting condition when cranking after the engine has been sitting a while. Now that you know my life story, I want to replace the Dipstick, CCV and OFH. I have seen what a pain in the ass the CCV is without removing the intake manifold but do you think it would be a lot easier to access if the OFH was out of the way? Any thoughts or insight would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to try and only to realize my fat hands can't put it back together.

[@50sKid]

+KYinMontana Yes you're burning oil because the diaphragm in your oil separator is blown. The OFH being out of the way might give you a little more access, but you don't really need to remove it. You CAN do the CCV without removing the intake manifold--just take everything off the intake (throttle body, idle air control valve, evap solenoid) and you'll have enough room. You can see in my video how to hook the little hose on properly. Good luck.

[@robertlaugherty4914]

"Inspect you dipstick after you get it off..." PRICELESS! Thanks for a great video and some unintended comic relief.

[@50sKid]

ha, I think that was unintentional

[@carlosbarragan1673]

+50sKid this looks overengeneered.. so difficult. to remove a simple intake manifold.. I have a 320i I followed all of your videos.. I have very rough iddle and it stalls.. but if I disconnect the MAF it won't stall.. it improves a little but still rough..also the car makes an horrible noise when accelerating.. the car sounds like a vacum cleaner very very loud or like a bus any IDEAS I replaced the fan clutch and still sounds like that very very loud.? I'm desperate man I feel sorry this cars are so good but..they are expensive to fix ... and I'm gonna sell my car cheaper... this cars are very expensive to mantain...

[@330.Custom.Diecast]

+Carlos Barragan If you unplug the MAF sensor the car should shut off. Try and replace your MAF. or trade with a known good MAF just to try. Also check and rubber intake or rubber hoses for any vacuum leaks.

[@carlosbarragan1673]

David Andrade I'am the new owner.. I have checked many things.. the boots both have been sealed with plastic silicon I guess they did not have money to buy new intake boots..... that is bad.. then one coil is not working.. and other bad thing is the head valve gasket seems to have a little leak because a little smoke and oil smell comes from the rear.. but as I said I used an scanner it said missfire in cylinder.. then MAF sensor and then camshaft sensor. too... I guess I have to change all this to make fix it LOL.. I have not used it lately... but I will fix it... and the vacuum noise sometimes is loud and when it gets warmer it sounds a lot less..

[@roberthandzus4066]

I'd love to see an annotation at 8:33 that states you can indeed put them in the wrong place if you try, because sure enough, I and many others, have swapped out that purge valve wire with the oil housing wire. If people remember that the purge valve is "backwards facing" it wont be a problem. I thought I'd remember, but clearly didn't. FYI for those that have swapped these wrong you will eventually blow a fuse in the E box causing a no start condition.

[@agualotus]

@50’s kid. I did this to my car (530i 3litre i6) following your video. Worked perfectly! Thank you. Next is the oil housing gasket. How do I remove the fan???

[@jongkeunlee]

in my opinion its much easier with oil filter housing removed. So best way is do both jobs(ccv and oil filter housing gasket replacement) at the samew time.thx for great video Jason.

[@ericrigoroso4445]

You are the best! you really know what your doing............and I've learn a lot! thank you so much.

[@mikeraphone9317]

great information. I removed the top pipe connected to the valve cover inserted a hose that fit inside that and lite up cigar. Blew the smoke down in it and saw it come up from somewhere below. After getting the junk out of the way I tried the smoke back inand saw the smoke coming up from the sock kniotted material that goes around the pipe going from the valve to the dipstcik.I assume if the pipe did not leak it would have been a simple test to see if the ccv system would have some back pressure.Anyhow the smoke came out so time to replace the plastic.

[@ianyoung6829]

Hi 50, I have just finished my CCV system on my 2001 325 Convertible your video was very helpful and informative, However please check the torque info on the throttle body excellent video.

[@MikeJovani]

You're the man dude, thanks for all of these videos

[@iflytango]

nevermind after watching part 2 answered my question. great video thanks