BMW E90 Oil Cooler Retrofit DIY

The early N54s in the 2007 335i didn't come with oil coolers installed from the factory. In this video, I'm gonna show you how to retrofit one. The oil temp seems to be running about 10F cooler since I did this. Enjoy the video!
Parts List For E90 N54 Oil Cooler Upgrade:
11428642289 Oil Filter Housing With Cap
11428637821 Oil Filter Housing Gasket
11427573212 Oil Cooler Thermostat Housing With Thermostat
11428637820 Oil Cooler Gasket
17227521376 Oil Cooler
17217540030 Plastic Holder for smaller Oil Cooler Bolt
07147144953 Hex nut for oil cooler to body bracket (x2)
07119903995 Small Hex bolt for oil cooler bracket
51717162272 Air Duct For Oil Cooler, front right
07119905241 Screws for holding air duct to oil cooler (x3)
17227567207 Engine oil cooler pipe, flow
17227567208 Engine oil cooler pipe, return
17227555715 Screw for oil cooler lines (x2)
17222245358 O-rings for oil cooler lines (x4)
64216904030 Plastic clamp for oil cooler lines
51647154546 Front Bumper Carrier Bracket, Right
51717162276 Fender Liner - Right
51717161436 Oil Cooler Grille For Fender Liner - Right
51747160610 Air Duct Next To Oil Cooler Duct, Front Right
51117134080 Bumper grid, fully open, right
Here is the sport oil cooler "valve" (looks like it just bypasses the thermostat and lets the oil run through the cooler full time):
burgertuning.com/collections/...
This is the upgraded "mickey mouse" flange (video on this coming next week):
burgertuning.com/collections/...
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.

[@triggahappi2732]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I spent a month ordering parts a while back but didn't get around to the job yet. Now that I have a full list of parts, I'll be able to order the rest! I have an e92 328i but my oil got to 285F one hot day on the track so this is a must!

[@user-wm3fc1sk1p]

285F? Make sure you're always running synthetic oil. Check your cooling system (coolant) If that gets low/ leaks your engine will run hotter. Also in the track I recommend you turn on the heater and not the A/C. At the very least just turn off the AC. Less heat for the engine basically.

[@juliusr83]

I really enjoy your content. Even from the beginning with the e46 engine build/blueprint. Just FYI, you can remove the entire front as one-piece with the headlights and all. You'll remove the top four screws and the headlight screw inside the inner fenders and the 2 duct screws at the bottom. Of course, the 8 nuts to the frame and the radiator grommets. Release the hood cable and electrical wiring and it comes right out. No need to remove any of the headlight brackets or the front air vent bracket bolt. It save's quite a bit of time

[@baims8367]

Why the F did u take the front clip off to do the oil housing ?? 🤦🏼

[@leonolazco9090]

Like always good info and video thanks 50skid

[@johncadogan9450]

I have a 2006 335i I bought new and it came with cooler, great car love it.

[@jhncvngh]

THANK YOU MR JASON WE LOVE YOU

[@robbiek5oh]

I’d change the thermostat and get the temps down closer to 200; oil gets pretty thin when it’s smoking hot (240+); enjoyed the video

[@jayparnes]

Big job and nice work! FYI it's always a good idea to oil prime the engine when you're breaking the oil circuit as you did. Either pull the fuel pump fuse or remove the connectors from each fuel injector.

[@50sKid]

The thermostat is closed until the engine warms up fully so not much point to doing a prime.

[@jayparnes]

@@50sKid I assume you're talking about the oil thermostat? Not sure what that has to do with it but maybe you can clarify. Maybe I'm being over cautious but I always disable fuel and spark and oil prime to prevent excessive bearing wear.

[@50sKid]

@@jayparnes the thermostat inside the oil cooler housing that is bolted to the oil filter housing is normally closed so it blocks oil flow from reaching the oil cooler. It doesn’t open until the oil temp gets above a certain point, so doing a prime on the oil system when the engine is cold wouldn’t have any effect, ya know? That’s why I didn’t do it. Also, the passages inside the thermostat/valve looked pretty small and I imagine they did that so as to prevent a large drop in oil pressure when it opens. So I wasn’t really worried. I mean, think about it, do they pump oil into these coolers when they are assembling them on the factory line? Or the lines? Impractical, really.

[@jayparnes]

@@50sKid Now I see where your coming from, but we're talking about different things. I'm not worried about the cooler. I'm worried about lack of oil in engine parts: rod bearings, cylinders, pistons, turbos... I'd rather do it than not.

[@seanpaul3050]

BMW SIB clearly states After making engine repairs that require the replacement or removal of the engine bearings, VANOS gears, camshafts, bed plate resealing, engine oil pump, engine oil filter housing, cylinder head, engine oil cooler or anything that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine requires a short oil pump and oil supply circuit priming procedure.

[@Hamkaastosti1]

I just recently did this retrofit, however I did not have the black bracket. My radiator is bolted to the frame rail and the radiator air duct. It seems sturdy enough and can’t really go anywhere. I did not remove the front bumper for this job. I have the M bumper, there probably is a part for the fog light assembly to allow air in, but I just used the dremel to cut out the hole to the air duct. If you buy new, the air duct for the brakes (€30 ish) is way cheaper then the air duct for the radiator. (About €130) I also installed the Mosselman N54 thermostat. Now temps are on 100 degrees celcius instead of 120

[@stephanelouvet1113]

Nice job ! Very detailed, as always. Many many thanks. It's so cool to see how all the front parts are assembled together ! I'd like to realign my front bumper (on E92 335i N55, which has already this additional oil cooler) as it shows a bigger gap at the top, near the bonnet. I can't tell you about the oil temperature as it's my first BMW and have no reference point. But I noticed it's changing with the drive. Oil runs warmer on stabilized speed on the highway and gets cooler when driving aggressively on twisting roads. I've been told it runs warmer for fuel economy and cooler to improve the cylinder compression when "performance mode" is detected. 22:11 - When reinstalling the oil filter housing, are you placing new screws ? How much oil will it be in the circuit with the added oil cooler and lines ? 29:57 - Those headlights need a refreshment ;)

[@50sKid]

Didn't use new screws -- they are not aluminum. Yes I definitely need a headlight refresh. I think I want to buy new lenses and go that route.

[@alquehenwebb7349]

Well done thanks for the video I got to put mine in same car 07bmw 335i e90 twin turbo bless

[@karmatose]

I'm going to be doing this on my E82 (with an N52) soon-ish. This is making me want to put the job off even more. lol Good vid though. Haven't seen anything as comprehensive as this.

[@SamBao]

if you're running an N52, you can upgrade with an N52 cooler that water cools the oil, it is way less involved than the air cooled oil cooler he is doing here

[@quwn05]

Them bike racks look good on e90 I just got mines been looking for them for years

[@HanifEFIMechanical]

Good job

[@anthonymaresca4839]

Hey what’s up. I have a question and it’s killing me. I have a BMW 325 ci. 2004. I changed a lot of the components more than a few times in the 1 year I’ve had this car. I don’t drive it to long. I literally pour coolant in. Drive 5 miles and I’m over heating. The oil cooler keeps coming out. The slide pin is down. I heard it snap in place but the return (the side that’s closest to the driver side) keeps coming loose and I end up losing all my coolant as I drive. Any idea why this keeps slipping out? Any idea how to keep it from happening? Is there another way that allows me to get rid of this oil cooler? Please bro, any info you have I’d appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

[@rxcc5974]

Hey I was wondering if u have an extra oem oil cooler set up for sale? My upgraded one w hoses keep blowing on me

[@joeespisito9200]

Def had some extra screws at the end of da day ...... 😆.... Intake gaskets r still good 👍

[@georgestinnett4367]

Whats did you use to clean the housing

[@davewallace9048]

You need to invest in an ultrasonic cleaner tank does great jobs for cleaning that types of passageways

[@greatzero_]

Hi, thank you for this video! Do you thing this will fit my E81 N52B30 130i 7/2007? Thanks

[@aombarbor]

I bought one from ebay cooler lines and housing but no braket piece in between crashbar. Can i do it without the bracket? can i just drill a new hole in crashbar?

[@repairvehicle]

What is the best year for 3 series bmw in terms of reliability?

[@AugustDreamScape]

I have a Cooler on my 08 328i. Can I add this one as well though, since it's for the OFHU? Can I use both coolers? Possible?

[@michaelblacktree]

Great video! I'm looking to do the same with my E46. But I think it would need an OFH from an M3?

[@50sKid]

Didn’t know the m3 had an oil cooler. Not sure it’s needed on the m52/54 engines though

[@michaelblacktree]

Yep, the E46 M3 has an engine oil cooler. I'm going to install a turbo on my M54, and figured an oil cooler would be a good idea.

[@50sKid]

@@michaelblacktree Ah, I get it

[@roderickmartinez4715]

You should see the size of the oil cooler on the 2008 535xi there is two big ones built into the fan shroud m

[@seanpaul3050]

You messed up. There is a BMW service information bulletin in regard to this. THE OIL CIRCUIT MUST BE PRIMED BEFORE STARTING ENGINE ! I can dig out a link for you. There have been many examples of permanent engine damage shorly after not doing this procedure. Many engines had to be replaced by BMW.

[@50sKid]

I didn’t replace the engine. Did you actually read that pdf you posted?

[@fallosok3599]

Is there any reason you didnt go with an aftermarket cooler (besides price) ? Most aftermarket coolers offer better cooling than the stock, and can run upgraded AN lines

[@50sKid]

More money, I suppose. But maybe a video like that would have gotten more clicks.

[@BVonBuescher]

I wound up doing a retrofit AND adding an updated larger oil cooler. Haven’t finished the engine install yet, so no results to report

[@JungelStua]

You have to fill the oil before you mount it. The thermostat is gonna open when oil hits around operating temp, which starcs the engine of oil for a sec. Its just a second, but a second can do much harm

[@georgestinnett4367]

Whats the part number for the vent at the end

[@voltron979]

Do you still have the one you didn’t use..??? And if you do, would you sell it ??? Please let me know.😉

[@GreyBBeard]

Which is better for work like this..impact wrench, or impact driver?

[@50sKid]

impact wrench

[@darkwafflez_6190]

Why opt for oem when there are plenty of aftermarket options? 👍🏻

[@50sKid]

More money, I suppose

[@Q50Diaries]

FYI not all 08’s came with factory cooler 🙂

[@seanpaul3050]

Here is the link static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10151166-9999.pdf After replacing anything which disturbs the oil circuit, an oil prime is required before starting the engine properly.

[@50sKid]

The oil cooler thermostat is closed until the oil temperature gets above 200F. Priming the oil system when the engine is cold would have no effect. I appreciate your concern, but it’s misplaced in this case.

[@seanpaul3050]

@@50sKid you can ignore BMW procedures if you want. However you have people watching your videos. It is better to show them the correct method to protect their rod bearings and crank bearings from premature wear or failure. When the oil circuit has been disturbed it creates a time delay before the bearings receive adequate lubrication when you start the engine for the first time. It doesn’t cost anything to follow the correct procedure. Just a few minutes. That’s all.

[@50sKid]

@@seanpaul3050 The oil circuit has not been disturbed in any significant way. This is pretty similar to a standard oil change. Oil pressure is established extremely quickly after changing an oil filter housing because the oil is pretty much just sitting at the hole right at the top of the block where the housing interfaces with it. That hole is a large passage which comes directly from the oil pump. A few turns of the oil pump and the oil reaches the oil filter and the oil pressure switch. The new oil cooler circuit that was added is closed off like I said -- the oil pressure warning light does not stay on long enough for you to notice anything different during start up. Oil pressure actually gets established quite quickly on an engine because of that reason. The engine bearings all still have the oil film inside of them that they had before I began the procedure. There is no danger here. Had the situation been different, such as installing a completely new engine like in the PDF document you posted, I would have followed a different procedure and primed the engine. 🙂

[@seanpaul3050]

@@50sKid The BMW SIB is very clear. It states removal of the oil filter housing or oil cooler is enough reason to require an oil prime. You can either agree with BMW or decide that you know better than BMW. Which is it ? The oil filter housing contains a check valve to maintain a pressure head of oil ready for the next engine start. This reduces the time delay for oil to reach the bearings when starting. Removal of the oil filters housing will allow the pressure head of oil to fall back into the sump. So after refitting you prime the system to restore that pressure head of oil. Also in regard to the oil cooler. When the thermostat opens that is going to allow the air in the cooler to be sucked into the oil circuit. Meaning temporary oil starvation. This is all very obvious. Why would you choose to avoid doing something that takes a few minutes to do and costs nothing. Why would you risk damaging bearings for no reason. Makes no sense to me.

[@50sKid]

@@seanpaul3050 Ok, you made some good points that I hadn't considered. I'll do it next time for sure.