1958 Johnson 10 HP - Ignition, Timing, and Test Start II

Timing Light: amzn.to/2KkjPkS
or
ebay.to/2trEGJw

[@dennisfalan1623]

Thanks Brandon I always look for your videos 1st when I want to see someone do a job before I do it for the 1st time Thanks for all the videos!

[@terryt2764]

Thank u for the video I have a 1956 5.5 seahorse that was left to me by my grandfather and I couldn't get it started I have never worked on points r timing in my life after making my own spark plugs and following your directions on timing that motor cranked for the first time in 2 decades with starter fluid but hearing it run for a few seconds was awesome to me I'm probably going to have to go and get a carb kit so a video on carb rebuild would be great the only suggestion I have is a little bit more vocal step by step for the incompetent people like me but thank you so much

[@philipbreau1246]

The timing tool looks like it has play with the key. When you were moving it back and forth, the nut seemed to be in sync with the tool, but to see how easily it moved when you were moving it back and forth suggests there is play. At 12:30-12:40 you can see the tool and nut move. It doesn't appear the cam is moving by how easy it is to rotate the tool. It's probably best to tighten the nut so the crank shaft and tool are guaranteed to stay in sync. Love the sped up sound at 17:00. Sounds like a nitro RC engine.

[@lakesideranch]

Nice video Brandon, hope you had a great 4th of July celebration there. Well done step by step with explanation of the work you did. I agree that motor sounds a lot happier now with points ignition than when it was fitted with the solid state modules. Enjoy your weekend, work safe! Doug@ the "ranch"

[@BrandonsGarage]

It was an experiment; now I know to never do that again. Points worked great for 70+ years of use in engines, I should have left well enough alone. But hey, live and learn. Enjoy your weekend too!

[@joey6119]

Low speed sneezing is from out of adj,adjust, crank seals or dirty carb

[@travis2170]

i really like your cheap pontoon series

[@BrandonsGarage]

Thats up next, just waiting for parts. Should be here on Monday.

[@ct1762]

these never idle right of you don't get the high speed dialed in 1st! Just my experience. my 62' 10hp sportwin was doing the same lean sneezing like yours until i did the high speed

[@benkanobe7500]

Lacking the handidandie timing tool, does the Factory manual for the motor show a way to time without the tool? I will be timing my similar motor without the fixture/tool, but have static timed many engines just not dual-point where each set is for each cylinder.

[@travisestes6217]

Hey Brandon, I just installed the Sierra tune-up kit. 8.5k ohm from plug wire to ground, Coils flush with the shoulders, condensers seem to charge/discharge properly, 1 ohm across points, points gapped to .020" at "top" arrow, spark plug gapped at .030" (new), magneto greatly passes the screwdriver hold test...I'm getting a light with the inline tester but no spark across my gap tester or when I hold the plugs in boot to ground. Any ideas what to check next? 1966 Johnson 6hp

[@joey6119]

Your low side is somewhat dirty on carb is why it won't adjust at idle low side is dirty adjust under load worked every time

[@mulespur4806]

I went and put them Nova chips on mine and it ran good then I turned it off and it never would start back so I did the same as you and put all new points back in but on a side note the Nova chips work good on my merc 200

[@Jsterbanz]

Hey Brandon - awesome stuff on all your videos. I followed your old videos to get an old QD16 started, however I have misfire on top cylinder. I noticed sparking on the point itself, so figured I have grounding issue, but didn’t find anything. I swapped all components (coils etc), and still have issues on the same cylinder, so that seems to rule out the coil. Any thoughts on what to check next? Thank you!

[@MrBuddyMitch]

Does it matter if throttle is at stop or full throttle or at start position ?

[@BrandonsGarage]

No, I put the throttle to whatever position makes it easier to get to things.

[@MessianicJudaism]

Hey Brandon, Great video, thank you. At 13 min and 39 seconds (13:39) your using a timing tool. I can't find one. I don't know correct name for it. Can you or some one here provide a link where to get one for my 1961 Johnson 40hp RDS-23 motor? Thank you very much.

[@outboardfixer]

You should be able to stop that lean sneeze by riching the high JUST A LITTLE then riching the low JUST A LITTLE....if not, it is getting air around the packing washers in your needles OR air from the top crank shaft seal.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Ill give it a shot when I get it in the river. High speed is working great though.

[@outboardfixer]

You still have to TWEEK that high at idle. I know MANY say it does not use off the high at idle but if you have the high to lean some will sneeze idling....it took a LONG time to learn that about SOME of them old carbs.

[@outboardfixer]

Yes that is right but the engine will sneeze if you lean the high to much. I have about 25 old OMC motors and some a 1/4 turn out on THE HIGH at idle will stop the lean sneeze. If you top crank seal is leaking, pour a little oil around it and turn the engine over to check for air bubbles, the carb will be different every time you start it.....SUCKING AIR.

[@TonyGingrich]

Question about the mag plate. I had one wobbling on my 25, causing major running issues. Studying the situation online, I decided to follow a seemingly popular remedy by simply reinstalling the support ring upside down. That eliminated the up/down wobble, but there remains some side-to-side play. Motor runs a LOT better, though still a bit rough. When I use a timing light (top cylinder), I can see the timing is somewhat erratic. Though not terribly crazy, as it remains approximately stable throughout the throttle range. But even at constant throttle, the alignment is not perfectly still. Could that be caused by the persisting side-to-side action of the mag plate? I'm thinking I need a new plate, support ring, and retainer due to excessive wear. But I don't have the experience to know better--it makes sense that there should be at least some clearance in order to allow throttling.

[@BrandonsGarage]

It's pretty snug on there, If it has side to side wobble it will need to be replaced. It's a decently common problem. Shouldn't need to replace the lower ring though.

[@christophergaunt4861]

I have a 60s evinrude 9.9 but have had a hard time getting it running. Would love to send it to you to rebuild/get running and have you make a vid on it.

[@BrandonsGarage]

well, the 9.9 didn't come out until 1974.... so what do you have? Also, where you located?

[@christophergaunt4861]

@@BrandonsGarage Apologies its a 9.5 I brain farted. I am in GA

[@BobKotarski-ib6yk]

I have a Johnson Sea Horse 10 hr., looking to sell it, can you help me?

[@corentinponcetkerymel1708]

Hello I'm french and I search to restore a johnson 3 hp but there is a problem with the ignition and I want open up of the engine but I can't someone can help me ?

[@danielcartis9011]

Hi Brandon, I'm confused on the beeping. Shouldn't it beep when there is a complete circuit? How come the beeping is going away when the "timing is between those two lines with the tool"? I would think that's when it would make the beep (i.e. complete the circuit) then go away until a full revolution has been made.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Ah, Well here is the basic of it - spark will follow the shortest distance to ground. When the spark plugs shouldn't fire, the points keep the circuit closed, not allowing the spark to make it down to the plugs. When the spark plugs should fire, the points open; sending the spark down to the plugs.

[@danielcartis9011]

@@BrandonsGarage oh! That is helpful. I knew what was trying to be set but I didn't understand why the meter was operating the way it was. Thanks for taking the time to explain! I will be diving into this on my 25hp Johnson (1971) next chance I get

[@jimcatx3090]

Would it be easier to locate tdc of each cylinder by putting a screwdriver in the spark plug holes that’s how I set my motorcycles but that didn’t have points

[@dennisfalan1623]

No, the timing marks are factory set and exact.

[@samtate1260]

Someone told me you have to check your timing with your motor in gear and wide open it’s hard to do that and drive a boat so you don’t hit something or worse someone have to put my motor in a Horse trough or something

[@brandonandsons2353]

So what's your plan with the motor now since you got it all fixed up?

[@lungchan1729]

I wish you live around my place, I have to fixed and I can't find anyone. they all say it's too old

[@roxxerface]

Everyone says that for mine too. So i tore into mine and got it running. Now the bottom cylinder isnt getting fire anymore.

[@juliesummers9124]

Where can I purchase the timing tool?

[@coalbear1]

Help, how to you get rid of the pressurized fuel tank on a 57 7.5 hp?

[@sethgabbard7705]

C Salyers you have to add a fuel pump. You will have to mount it to a part of the motor. Then you run your fuel lines to your carburetor and block the air that comes out the air line. Then you have a working fuel pump. P.s you fuel lines will need to you to your fuel pump to

[@mikedurhan9941]

You probably won't have to worry about it. A 7.5 will probably throw a rod through the side of the block before you need a single hose tank. Seriously, you need to baby a 7.5. And make certain you use 16:1 gas/oil ratio (8oz/gal). And don't run wide open very often.

[@snapfish89]

Timing looks like 1/8 or 1/4 inch off. But that's on camera. Really hard to tell. But looking good!

[@BrandonsGarage]

I think it the camera angle, on the 2nd go-around, it was centered between the lines. Camera frame rate is also why the strobe doesn't work too well.

[@mikedurhan9941]

@@BrandonsGarage I think the two marks are for when the cam follower engages to advance the throttle - not for a timing light.

[@mikedurhan9941]

Sorry. I've looked closer now.

[@easydoz1]

Think the Lower end is just a little age stiffened...

[@BrandonsGarage]

Lower has been gone through, now its just new seals and pump stiff.