DIY Fuel Rail / Manifold Build (# 390465 )

[@BrandonsGarage]

Seems #2 wins, here is the parts list- Amazon Parts 1/8" Tee Fitting- amzn.to/459G1TZ 1/8" 90 Elbow- amzn.to/46pF5Ms Loctite sealant amzn.to/45cw5Jo Fuel Zipties- amzn.to/46qFbU7 McMaster Fittings (2) 8mm fittings 6220N33 (1) 4mm fitting 6220N31 5/16" Barb Elbow 53525K13 (1) 2" Nipple 4568K113

[@jimoconnor1275]

#1 to get it down the road #2 to keep it from never coming back to the shop. Good job

[@ronaldjoyce7374]

My first thought was to just make it out of the bras fittings and once you did, I thought, GOOD MAN. It’s so cheap and will most likely out last that engine and maybe all of us, LOL Ron

[@ralphjones7240]

Version 2 definitely. If you can braze, I would braze the fittings to the main tube.

[@helicopterjohns]

Nice video EXCELLENT repair!!!! 🙂Many thanks for sharing and really enjoy your videos I vote for version 2. Without any abuse that part will outlast the motor it is being installed on. I have a Haas TM-1P CNC machine but would not use it when off the shelf parts are available to make a substitute part for repair purposes. Example: I built a 2 X 72 Belt Grinder. Almost all of the parts were made on my CNC machine. However, when a commercially produced part was available at a reasonable price I purchased it.

[@slideoff1]

copper, brass and solder make a great manifold... I have made quit a few over the years...

[@notsalmonpack]

I love the con to get people to send you new fuel rails 😂😂 I think your machining is great dude. I think the first one would hold up just fine unless the plastic fittings get knocked around and ripped out. In which case put a new fitting on and drill it out again. Big whoop

[@wilcogrundens9086]

Kinda spooky that this just popped up. I got a 93 115 Evinrude this summer that I restored. VRO delete, aluminum float bowls, all new ignition. It runs like brand new but I hated that bend at the bottom. It was on the verge of kinking. I was going to do #2 but my local hardware didn't have all the fittings (small town AK). That looks awesome, thanks for the parts list and thanks for all your help with my rebuild in general! A late 80's 90 just popped up on our community page and I'm having trouble not snatching it up because I'm such an expert now thanks to you. Cheers!

[@scott2600]

Thanks! Just ordered everything to build one. My new to me Johnson 90 had some odd VRO delete that used the pulse limiter and the VRO fuel pump. Going to simplify things :)

[@ottoolsen9560]

use a thin-walled brass pipe, then silver\castolin solder or tin solder for that matter, you hose fittings into the pipe 🙂 or the v2 all fittings and loctite you made is fine 🙂 the engies airbox intake runners are missing, they are of plastic, just 2 squere plastic pipes, and the fuel manifoil is behind them usaly.

[@kenfrazier616]

great video, I did number to from the hardware store and used copper and brass fitting, excellent so far

[@mikedurhan9941]

You're good. Thanks for the video.

[@jamesread11]

Metal fittings for me, I wouldn’t wanna take the chance with plastic fittings and minimal thread engagement especially when messing with fuel. Drilling and messing with round stock is very tricky, I would not be challenging you, I think you ended up with a nice finished alternative, I would be more than happy with that

[@geesss8675]

Also taken to consideration. You work on motors that probably are used on pirate ships All the time. there's an old pirate saying: Deadman tell no tales. There's a strong possibility if that Manifold fails that the person will be severely burned and is dead. so you're still in the clear.

[@jamesgray6123]

Your second 1 was definitely the better choice last longer looks better and easy to replace sports and the hose spit proper #2 the way to go

[@geesss8675]

Being concerned about hanging on by 3 or 4 threads period try to take into consideration that Ford motor company built an engine called the 5.4 l Triton. They sold millions of those engines, and the spark plugs were held on by 3 or 4 threads. Rest easy young skywalker

[@danielrobert7181]

Brandon, Fine work indeed but #1 with its somewhat flimsy thread holding fittings really never had a chance against the solid brass version. Regards !

[@dougaranda6187]

I love making my own stuff. I do it whenever I can. I like the aluminum version except for the thread engagement. If you could Tig weld a threaded boss onto the pipe, that’d be the ticket, but of course that’s a lot of work. The one with the ‘T’s looks homemade, but it’s under the engine cover on an old motor. It doesn’t have to be pretty.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Yeah! Thats what I don't like about it; its clearly rigged. Anybody that looks at it will know that. Thats why #1 was more appealing to me. I think I'll learn to tig weld and give # 1 a shot again.

[@garethvandermerwe3187]

hi Brandon, its a good idea but rather over complicated. i woud have rather used a barbed brass LPG gas 90 degree fitting top and bottom and a T fitting in the middle joined with fuel hose done and dusted.

[@havocsquad1]

Definitely #2 with the brass pre-made parts. I was asking this question about a month ago in iBoats forums as a new boat acquisition landed me another early 1990's V4 crossflow in my possession and I really did not want to buy the MaxRules VRO mount pre-mix fuel pump, just wanted to cap the vacuum port and put an OEM pump on the pulse port. I could never get an answer if there would be potential fuel supply issues if I made a "U" from NPT brass fittings into the VRO fuel manifold so I could hook up a pulse port fuel pump I wouldn't think there would be a restriction but that isn't a very high PSI fuel pump system. I'm surprised you didn't just sandpaper the plastic barbs down enough to provide the clearance for the 5/16 hose to allow it to be removed off the fuel manifold. I didn't see a parts reference link, hopefully KZbin algorithm screening wasn't being brainless censoring overlord about metal parts. Please provide the parts list, you'll save a lot of people the headache on the design side of things getting the right brass/aluminum NPT threaded barbs. Finding a suitable threaded NPT brass/aluminum fitting with 5/32 barb or close enough was a nightmare. That was probably the biggest headache in my research.

[@davidboscaljon3787]

still looking for the Hydraulic fluid diagram for the tilt and trim unit. If you don't have any resoures let me know . thank you. keep coming with the awesome vidoes I enjoy want you do. P.S. are you or were you a boat motor technician?

[@gillgetter3004]

I think either one would be fine👍

[@coastalcleaningandmaintena2884]

Plenty of wall thickness. That the thing u dont wanna cut off flow if u go to deep. I dont the pressures involved. But i watch your videos and rebuild a 1983 johnson 9.9 that was given to me. The kill switch is the only thing id like to get working any ideas. The push button seems fine 2 wire setup

[@PRAISETHESAVIOR]

I would use the last version simply bc of reliability, strength, ease of replacement parts and it’s cheap compared to the OE part.

[@marcinszuba5637]

Your videos are awesome. Would it be possible to do a video on how to set the timing on a J/E 50 2 stroke ?

[@bobbell5928]

He and others already have. Link and sync

[@davek.1063]

Hey Brandon was wondering if you could do a video on changing a throttle lever spring on a johnson outboard. I have a 70hp and the lever spring is broke. Not sure what I'd be getting into.

[@hartshut]

I like the second one better also. Seems there aren’t enough threads holding the fittings on the first one. But if I were making it, I would use thin wall brass tubing, drill holes and silver solder brass fittings in.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Well they make aluminum bung fittings in that size; if I had a TIG welder and some skill, it would be pretty easy to get it darn near perfect.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Tig welding in the female thread fittings or what you called bung fittings would work great on a metal tube. Allot stronger than plastic that over time breaks down and cracks. That's the fun on old stuff, making your own parts that don't cost what folks are charging these days.

[@barthanes1]

Yeah, I think I would sweat it together with copper tube and brass fittings. But threading it together is equally as durable. Manufacturing it from thick walled tube seems a bit involved unless you already have the tooling.

[@ATStone]

why not mount the VRO version of the manifold in its original position and run a longer hose from the top down to the lower inlet?

[@danielnicholls6868]

i like version two.. will out last motor

[@mjodr]

When I did my whole fuel system I broke some of the little plastic tees on the smaller vacuum/drain lines. I told myself if I broke the main plastic manifold I would be screwed. Somehow didn't break it otherwise I would have been doing this, lol.

[@-Viceroy-]

#2 definitely better. Is there a big brand name which makes them hose zip-ties? It would help my search for them a lot. I can't find zip-ties for hoses in my country.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Does amazon deliver there? amzn.to/46qFbU7

[@RickRick-bj1zy]

3 D printers are going to take care of that problem, I hope

[@jims4539]

Thanks as always for the video. Please, where do you buy the fuel line zip ties? My local NAPA does not carry or know of them.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Yeah, nobody really knows about them, but once they do there is no going back. amzn.to/46qFbU7

[@jeffbrummette1622]

I would go with #2 also,

[@coastalcleaningandmaintena2884]

I have that same carb clean . Cheaped out i was gonna go with the parts washer. Oh this one has a basket and its way way cheaper. The handle for the basket is way to short and u gotta put your hand in the harsh chemicals and for small screws etc the hokes in the basket are to big. Plus no agitation= loosens the junk a bit but still have to brake clean and scrape etc.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Mine agitates! I go over and shake it up from time to time.

[@SalettaRocks]

why not just use small pieces of rubber tube with two tee and two 90 fittings?

[@helitec89]

Is there any concern of dissimilar metal corrosion being that the body is made of brass while the fitting are a different metal?

[@WoodGuy]

I noticed that they use brass and copper on their motors from the factory. I think they love plastic wherever possible so they could sell you new parts when they die. Just like why auto makers decided to put the fuel pump in the gas tank, not many people are going to mess with the gas tank to replace the fuel pump, a dealer and auto shop win. Not much money in selling us the old style fuel pump we could install ourselves.

[@danielrobert7181]

To get the corrosion process going, you would need thet piece of metal to be grounded. As the rubber fuel line isolate it from the block, I guess you would be home-free on the corrosion issue. Regards !

[@minimibudjetti]

Hello. This channel is great for OMC owners, I've got so much information to my Evinrude engines. But can I find here knowledge or even manual about my KAWASAKI UE21 2.5 hp outboard motor which I just bought. I'm from Finland and that outboard is ultrarare here. Haven't so far found any information about it.

[@BrandonsGarage]

Can you take some photos of it and send them to me?

[@minimibudjetti]

​@@BrandonsGaragejust tell me where, email or... i'm not computer expert😢

[@BrandonsGarage]

@@minimibudjetti [e-mail] I would love to see it

[@machew2009]

I would just go to auto parts store get new fuel line and some T fittings and run new lines cheaper then manifold.

[@BrandonsGarage]

There are a few problems there; First, the side of a standard barb T are pretty darn long, space becomes a problem. Next is the 5/16 can be had, and the problem comes to the 5/32 line; nobody has that.

[@jamesgray6123]

I disagree that part since it's such a old part maybe 25-30 since it was only $8 new

[@MexicoPescadoro]

First here?! I should get a free tune up or something... lol

[@peterjensen6844]

Hey now...since when is 42 old?....says the 42yo guy. 😂

[@BrandonsGarage]

Anything older than me is old. Doesnt matter if its only a year. hahaaa

[@mikecalvin1402]

😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅

[@davidboscaljon3787]

I like how you MacGyver things. I like #1. I would cut 3 nipples and tig weld them on , then tap them. number 2 is easier and faster. but if you are going for looks then numer 1 is the way to go.

[@MexicoPescadoro]

Unless my math sucks (completely possible), adjusted for yearly inflation at the standard 2%, this product would/should now be $4.85. But this country has become the ultimate grift a thon. Regardless of the laws of supply and demand, $200 is a joke for this item. Considering you can make the exact same thing with some brass fittings.

[@BrandonsGarage]

However! The needed fittings you can't just get at Home Depot, you're ordering them - thus you gotta know what you're doing. Can't lay it out like you could at a hardware store. And I did need to measure to get the correct size nipple.

[@waynegalvin4639]

Very nice work, I like the second one best but if you are stuck fabricating the first would probably work well.

[@lordpyrjzn1859]

Second!

[@wadeMcDonald-g9f]

#2

[@ScottHooker-z9u]

# 2