Cheap EVO 6 Built 4G63 Engine Assembly

Our Evo 6 rebuild continues as we finish assembling our engine and transmission with the following parts:
DEI Gold Heatshield: www.designengineering.com/
SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch & Aluminum Flywheel: www.specclutches.com/
Permatex Red Loctite: amzn.to/34ipbEA
Wire Brushes: amzn.to/2JKsPOi
Ralliart Engine Mounts: www.japanparts.com/parts/deta...
Join Our KZbin Community: goo.gl/n4m3Ez
Our Patreon page: / speedacademy
BUY Merch Here: speed-academy.myshopify.com
Buy Conquer Helmets: bit.ly/335kuxn
Favorite Tools:
Astro LED Work Light: amzn.to/2r70JUu
LED Bay Shop Light: amzn.to/2HHBw9D
Milwaukee Ratchet: goo.gl/2Cvuzm
Milwaukee Impact: goo.gl/kxnJTg
Miwaukee Sawzall: goo.gl/Sbw5FC
Fluid Transfer Pump: amzn.to/2ILVP9u
Uvex Face Shield: amzn.to/2jgZttO
Astro Rivnut Tool: amzn.to/2HAZN51
Rivnuts: amzn.to/2Fse0v8
Canon OES R Camera: amzn.to/2TzJqdo
Rode Microphone: amzn.to/2FsGeGa
Zhiyun Gimball: amzn.to/2WTtFww

[@vmoney9106]

Nice work boys. As a dad I’m jealous of the time you have to work on your cars

[@2988jake]

The front trans mount is supposed to be that size for ease of installation. I think the torque solutions front mount has a correctly sized ID. Also with that manifold a CAS heat shield would be a good investment, if you dont already have one. Anyways, great build guys! Lovin the 4g63 content!

[@Patrick94GSR]

Between this and the Gears and Gasoline unexpected Evo9 engine build videos, I could probably build a 4G63 by myself in my garage!

[@bigalalbig]

If heat doesn't work, a relief cut through the metal section of that engine mount and it would be out easily. I've had to do this a few times.

[@dancarlos1216]

Alan Barber Was going to say this, use a sawzall, I did my dads entire 350Z bushings like this.

[@ABeans07]

Jigsaw is faster than a press usually.

[@panel11111111]

^ This !

[@markwalton8644]

The right size holesaw is the easiest method!

[@magnetic0314]

For cleaning aluminium castings, oven cleaner spray works wonders. Its brutal shit so you just spray it on (comes up as a thick foam) let it sit for a short while then hose it off

[@vincentpoon6999]

don't have to brush it or nothing? The rear calipers on my DD have the same heavy white calcium(?) stuff on it and plan on getting rid of it in due time

[@marquisethomas5611]

That clutch disc more put together than my life

[@MilSource]

Had a problem with my STI Control arm bushing doing the exact same thing. I ended up having to cut it out. Used a hole saw to cut the rubber out then used a hacksaw to cut two line in the metal sleeve being careful not to nick the sides of the outer part, then knocked it out.

[@benreeves8541]

Crushing CANADIAN Content during the global hiatus - great production, great dynamic, and down to earth. Shout out from Peterborough Ontario!!

[@jonathanoliver1285]

Everyone hates on spec for clutches and flywheels. Glad to see your using them. I've never had any issues either

[@mr6266]

They made the holes bigger to speed up assembly time in the factory. I would recommend getting some Ridge collars for subframe and I end up using bigger bolts on my Evo 6.

[@jamest5149]

There’s a few crusty bits like the engine top mount, power steering pulley and cam belt cover that has my OCD stare at every time 😱 doesn’t effect performance only my sensibilities 😇

[@therealboofighter]

James T I was thinking this in the last video.

[@Speedwelltuning]

Who cares, it’s not your car, you’ve got zero input pal

[@Seth_Desu]

We’ve got some keyboard warriors in the replies. Just because it’s not his car, doesn’t mean he can’t offer his input. They even ask for input pretty often. He also never said anything that could be considered rude toward the Speed Academy guys. Loosen up.

[@pFbSpecV]

4g63 is life!!! Cant wait for this build to be complete!!

[@chrisr4815]

You generally don't press out old motor mounts. They're usually cut out.

[@dakavanagh]

For the old engine mount, you can cut the metal band from the inside and it should come out.

[@nkhjk3457]

Exhaust manifold look like intestine remainings of slayed Doom Eternal demon . Speed Academy : might heat up a little bit

[@123jrichie]

Love how you guys do things. Your builds are clean and this is no exception; going to be a perfect street/track combo.

[@markhulbrock8690]

For the transmission. Very thoroughly wire wheel, but you MUST top coat it otherwise the alum corrosion will come right back. Wirewheel and top coat with clear coat rattle can. Easy!

[@Gusando]

That evo is going to smash the sti ! Great vids guys keep it up i wastch ur channel every morning

[@perhuzell755]

Engine mounts and other bushings. We are now working on a Miata and all the rusted old bushing we fired up. Heat flame tourch and let the rubber burn. Dont add mars-mellow. They wont taste good! Regards, Per from Sweden

[@TheBilliardCorner]

Love this build series, keep it up guys!

[@herschelsinglee]

With that gearbox you can spray paint it with silver spray then cover it with some clear coat. Works wonders for the engine bay

[@markt9438]

Good Call coating the Header ! Wow i am a BMW Guy ,have to admit this system is an Engineering Masterpiece !

[@philou9102]

Love that series so much !

[@renoreno3685]

Thank you for continuing to make videos during the “voluntary” quarantine. It makes staying indoors easier. Can hardly wait for the showdown between the EVO vs STI!

[@rewindevocojp5439]

I love this Evo build makes me wanna just spend all my money on MAP’s website lol 😂

[@way2lazi]

Same then I saw the exhaust manifold alone was like 3k nzd 😂

[@fungus2116]

i mean if youve got the money fucking send it

[@idokwatcher2062]

Easy when you're sponsored.

[@John-md3ld]

Who else has thrown together a cart with over 4 grand worth of parts...but has no money?....

[@Khaki_wrx]

John Miller me 😂😂😂 Becu and Capital One own my ass even more

[@andreianderson2507]

Binged through the entire series so far and it got me clicking the notification bell for the first time on any channel. Made me go through and finish up the wish list for our family's project car. Great and very inspiring work in the middle of everything going on right now, looking forward to part 14!

[@speedacademy]

Thank you and great to hear you are enjoying the content

[@TheKeyBoardJockey]

Living the dream gents!@#! Enjoying the content, as usual. Can't wait to see this Evo come all the way together!@#!$%

[@corwininadsm]

Love the series!

[@DreamWrench]

Nice work guys! Good save with that o ring Pete!

[@mikepao6109]

Great start to my morning

[@jp2246]

That gold looks so good I'm going to slather it all over the engine bay of my stock Subaru Outback! Loving all your build series!

[@knduong]

Good work guys! keep it up

[@sarge3718]

Aluminium wheel cleaner , you just pour it on and watch it fizz :) oh and copper brush wheel to finish it off .. no shortcut here, just hard work !

[@m.l.679]

Thank you for the great content. This is a therapy ..

[@BjornFSE]

nice progress

[@manitoublack]

Glad to see you went with the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifold

[@dannewton8589]

Well done boys! Cleaning up another neglected car. I think it's worth taking time to appreciate just how much time and effort you put into these builds. Keep up the great work!

[@speedacademy]

Thank you. Its hard to convey that sometimes but we put alot of time into them.

[@damiendoisher7812]

Yes to ceramic coating always. Its amazing the difference it makes to your engine bay temperature.

[@hellcat320]

thanks for keeping these videos going guys, tough times for all. I am still workin feeding the power to you guys (I work for the hydro utility that feeds your area) so you guys stay safe and we'll keep the power hummin.

[@speedacademy]

Thanks for keeping on!

[@hellcat320]

@@speedacademy all day long brother rain or shine

[@sk8erguy1450]

I believe you are correct on the flywheel bolts and this build is looking good about as close as I’m getting to a dsm build hahaha

[@jacobgonzalez7302]

Canadian tuners are so chill

[@ChardDavis]

On the bushing that refuses to come out. Cut out or burst out the rubber center (can do this with a press and fitting about the diameter of the rubber/smaller than the outer metal ring of the bushing), then relief cut the outer bushing ring with a hacksaw, cut deep enough to create a cut thought the bushing metal ring, but not the bushing mount of course. Then the bushing ring will just fall out.

[@Patrick94GSR]

Nice flywheel. I use a similar one from ClutchMasters on my Integra GSR that weighs around 8 pounds. It's been on the car for over 200,000 miles. I did replace the friction surface during my last clutch replacement, which was back in 2008, or about 100K miles ago, and it was definitely nice being able to replace the friction surface, as opposed to having to take the flywheel to a machine shop on a weekday and losing a bunch of time. And despite what people say, I've had no drivability issues. Downshift rev matching is particularly fun with the much lower spinning mass.

[@PANTYEATR1]

i would have heated that engine mount with a torch while pressing it at the same time...then just sleeve that loose bolt. thanks for the videos💪

[@waltersmith3165]

One min into the video and hd game on point. 👍🏽

[@lareau6]

You can cut the rubber inside and than cut the métal sleeve With a métal saw. It will com off like a charm. Check how To change a transmissions mount on a 996 by pelicanpart.

[@lareau6]

www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/36-TRANS-Replacing_Your_Transmission_Mounts/36-TRANS-Replacing_Your_Transmission_Mounts.htm

[@RecreationAutomotiveGarage]

I had same question about the bolt for engine mount too still couldn't find out why. Good video

[@chrism8217]

Regarding the Ralliart mounts, they appear authentic. The orange dot is there for orientation purposes (check a factory service manual and it will tell you which direction it goes). I have the same bottom roll stop in my Evo 1 - same issue with the bolt diameter but it has no issues. They are noticeably firmer, but you notice a lot of difference in performance, particularly in throttle response (the stock mounts will let the engine rock, which made throttle response seem sluggish on mine). Ralliart rubber parts are the best available for Evos - there is still enough stock worldwide to do a whole Evo 5/6 suspension if you look in the right places.

[@brianfaherty31]

To clean the aluminum I’ve had great success with EasyOff Oven Cleaner. Let it soak for a bit and wash it off. If you leave it too long (dries) it will blacken the aluminum. Just reappply it and let it soak again and then rinse it off if that happens.

[@Castiel_Pr]

You won a new sub. 👍🏻🔰

[@John__Doe__]

Great content

[@namtech425]

Yeah as I am watching the engine mount issue you have, one - cut the rubber out and make a relive cut and hammer the outer shell out, then that bolt is sketch as they come. I checked mine now and I have a stepped bolt in there, not sloppy at all. I had to replace the engine mount a while back and had the same problem with that exact unit. Just cut the rubber material and knock it . Just for future ref guys. But good job on that engine looks sweet.

[@sLothiC]

dryice blasting is perfect for this

[@TheMostAriel]

My Evo X stock front motor mount had the sloppy large hole small bolt setup on it aswell. I think it is like that from the factory to allow for movement during harsh shifts.

[@Hasgun1]

From Australia, love the videos wish one day i would be able to afford an Evo

[@Fyxxterzc]

Much luck to your build. Have owned a few Dsms and definitely miss the boost.

[@n.b.5258]

Barkeeper's Friend, found in grocery stores, works really well on aluminum parts. That and some elbow grease. Use the stuff that's already mixed into a paste, not the powder. You have to put it on and scrub, it's not just apply and remove.

[@vladimira6241]

With the mount that didnt press out. heres what i did, since i dont have a press. cut the rubber, put a saw to the metal portion that you usually press against with press. be careful not to saw through the main housing. i usually make two cuts one cm apart, then use a screw driver to pop out the little section and then main one just pops out. did my front that way. lots of work but doable!

[@speedacademy]

And thats why I didnt do it. The time it takes and the mess made burning the rubber out or cutting it was just not in the cards.

[@lopilloevo]

Yes it’s like that, what I did is I got the thickest bolt I could get and then I think I had to drill the outside frame but I can’t remember

[@gwynn1104]

Looking forward to summer and a head-to-head against the STI

[@vmoutsop]

DEP purple degreaser works well to clean up aluminum. you just have to wash it down afterwards to neutralize it. Takes time with repeated use but the results are pretty good.

[@boomboombeach404]

i have cleaned up my gearbox removed all oxidation 2 years later its back so yea... better to paint it after you cleaned it up.

[@markmartin7384]

Yes definitely get that manifold ceramic coated

[@andymitchell368]

It’s definitely needing coated 👍👍

[@tylerandrews55]

In the past I have used Hi temp silver engine paint and lightly dust over the corrosion it works pretty well just don't go overboard.

[@smileybear420]

That car was an sti killer right off the factory

[@tomlololRS]

For the stuck engine mount: use a hacksaw, loosen the blad, put it throug the bushing openings between the rubber and saw the outer stuck metal ring open

[@Generalusuer]

The felt is for sound so when the springs are compressed they dont click

[@m0xmAn]

Use drain cleaners to remove the oxidation, other options is to use a rust converter solution. Just make sure to rinse properly with water.

[@GreenCrim]

Don't leave that mount. Run a hacksaw blade through the mount. Reconnect to the saw. Carefully cut through mount ring. It'll pop right out after that.

[@jlehm]

Just a heads up, Cerakote is not a TBC(thermal barrier coating). Cerakote is a high heat anti-corrosion coating. If you want to actually keep the heat in the exhaust, you need to go with a true TBC like the Swaintech White Lightning coating.

[@reAllyNoWayyy]

Never knew Tanner Foust and EricTheCarGuy had a KZbin channel!

[@mikelmorgan6409]

red scuff pad cleans up the oxidation on the transmission

[@GARAGESZERO]

eagle one mag cleaner cleans aluminum amazing. smells horrible though.

[@jeffh6971]

On that mount you couldnt get out.. cut out the rubber then use a sawzall or body saw, cut a notch in the outer sleeve of the old bushing then use a chisel and hammer to push out the old outer. Press in the new one.

[@rideordivekerry4830]

Dream car build

[@daynerampersad8968]

Hey pete you should ceracoat the entire exhaus system it may help with performance at the ceracoat will help it to run cooler, do the header, downpipe and full exhaust system fron the catback

[@likestarscreamxxx]

you could try Alum Brightener, or any other aluminum brightening product to clean up that oxidization! always works for me

[@naimsaikali]

It would be good to spray paint the rusty engine mounts. Anyways great built!

[@se1663]

Swaintech White lightning or nothing for the manifold coating. Cerakote has pretty colors, but White lightning actually works.

[@se1663]

swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

[@psiturbo]

Ceramic coating is extremely effective on keeping the heat within th turbo header.

[@MrDannyd9]

8:02 The big suggestion was HCl mix... come one PT!

[@Wafflebrah21]

Put some heat insulator by the cam position sensor. They tend to abosrb a lot of heat

[@danielworsley2579]

Hell yea!

[@d913y]

You should try zircotec coating on exhaust manifolds. It works great.

[@Danjul89]

The OEM bolts for the flywheel are stretch bolts and should not be re-used, you should buy the right arp kit (107-2803)

[@daledog16]

Dude do the coat now man definitely worth it

[@heavyd2249]

I’d consider making a heat shield for the manifold and or turbine. Also what are your thought on a lightweight flywheel for a boosted car? I personally like the additional weight in rotational mass.

[@gimmethecarkeys]

Light scuff. Clean and just paint it! Call it done. Also should have torn apart the clutch for assembly and cleaned it and re lubed all the moving parts for a better operating clutch pedal.

[@jdalzell3354]

Oem mounts are softer durometer and hydraulically filled. RA mounts should be solid and harder durometer.

[@RobertKohut]

Nice!! Stay safe... :-)

[@acarpenter138]

Eagle etching aluminum wheel cleaning is the best but don’t leave it on to long.

[@Hexenmiester]

Think about getting a shield for the cam position sensor this is Common to go through heat from the mani

[@jinkwt]

The guide for input shaft on stock flywheel is much smaller. Not sure about spec clutch for that big hole is it for the pilot bearing?

[@Jnilsson27]

Relief cut or heat, they are your friends when dealing with old parts.

[@sathianandarajranganatham1857]

Yeah I thought heat the outside of the mount while it was on the press? If that doesn't get it done. freeze it over night, chuck it in the press and heat the outside....

[@ZeroRequ1em]

its the same for my evo 9 for that front trans mount. i thought it was strange too but Jake Jeske is right that the torque solutions one is tighter. no sleeve and can't find the honest reason why its like that.

[@neilstewart1208]

Yeah the orange dot mounts are really rare and a great upgrade.........feel better? lol.

[@LenierEusoj]

Should have replaced the lil tube that the throwout bearing slides in and out for a more smoother kick!! Awesome work tho

[@idokwatcher2062]

Aluminum polish, or the ever popular and present in every garage Meguiars Mag and Alu polish.

[@91ludesit]

You guys need to invest in a vapor blaster to get all that oxidization off those kind of parts.