Designing And Building The Fuel Locker Covers!

[@danielcetan12]

Andy, I have learned so much.thanks..

[@daviddickmeyer5231]

Thank for using the idea Andy, glad to help. Always a pleasure to watch you work and especially when I get top billing! Ha, ha!

[@4xfun821]

I have not been following the channel for long but I have watched every episode. I have taken so many of your ideas and done it on my boat. I can officially say I am hooked. Good work dude

[@jcdesignsandboat-works8290]

Andy does great work! I to love his videos.

[@freddynews6478]

Having COPD I’m glad to see you Andy using a vacuum and breathing protection.

[@apainlessone]

Undercut or back bevel the top stationary plate at the same angle as the bottom. That way water will not run back under the 90 degrees top plate. To place the panel slip the beveled top edge under the lip and then seat the lower portion. Then both the top and bottom seams are angled down towards the deck. Great channel. I saw the part in upside down but it had already been pointed out.

[@davidrider4021]

Andy, it’s always so satisfying and relaxing watching you work. Thanks.

[@robw2379]

Andy, nice progress. You may want to add a small strip (or just a few small blocks) of coosa/glass to the inside of that locker to thicken up those walls. That would allow you to move the screws inboard, and have a more generous round over, 3/8" or maybe even 1/2". That would soften that corner nicely. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.

[@BoatMcRill]

Just wish we could get Total Boat products in Sweden 😢😢. They look great!

[@powerhouse109]

Nice shout-out to AvE's colorful camera commands.

[@boatworkstoday]

What's funny is they usually work lol!

[@richardtharp1608]

Got my Transom Fiberglass cut from the inside of my Kingfisher Boat about 2" from the Sides and Bottom .. Removing the Black Crumbly mush from the Middle with Good wood on the Sides, and Thick Glass on the Outer Transom.. Please explain Which type of Resin I Should Use to layer the New Plywood in for Better Strength and Workability.. Thanks, Richard

[@phygital1]

Hey Andy, @16:37 it maybe the angle or shadow, but it looks like the bevel on your kick plate is tapered towards the inside. Thought it would taper outwards so the water flows out.

[@boatworkstoday]

was wondering if anyone would catch that lol! Had it in backwards initially but did notice and turned it around :-)

[@lancer2204]

@@boatworkstoday Yes, we noticed. In my case I went looking for the comment before making my own. ;)

[@donpetrey8007]

Yep Andy we all watch you to close so we can become masters of the itch lol

[@danielfreixo179]

@@boatworkstoday That wrong angle of the kick plate made my OCD through the roof! Haha :-) Don't do that to us, Andy...

[@esurcylimaf4335]

@@boatworkstoday I think we all noticed, even here in Australia I noted that immediately. Cheers.

[@pezpengy9308]

its an elegant solution and yes sometimes its hard to see the forest when youre mucking about in the trees but... your pvc solution was just so cool i took it and used it on my own boat last tuesday when i built a, "propane locker." its just a brute garbage can with an above the waterline drain but i used glassed-in 3" pvc to route the drain pipe. Because the Great One thought of it, it must be ok!!!

[@reelguy8856]

Working on a project boat I’m going to do the exact same thing 😁

[@aluminumpro9567]

Andy, Just a suggestion, to enable you to create a larger radius, you could add a doubler strip or blocks along the inside edge for your screws, this will move the screws away from the edge and allow a greater radius. Ken

[@boatworkstoday]

I think that's what I may need to do if I want something more like 1/2" radius. Right now there's just not enough meat there for something like that :-/ Good idea!

[@brrraaaapp8502]

9:57 always use your head when building stuff :-)

[@kizzjd9578]

"Focus you AVE" haha, gold!

[@bluntweaponahs]

Loved the shout out to ave! Glad to know someone is as scatter brained as me haha

[@samueltaylor4989]

Yes, larger radius.

[@johnkaveski7953]

nice work dave great job.

[@mwatkins2464]

John Kaveski who’s dave?? His name is Andy 🤪

[@catherinemunroe3960]

good video andy

[@hfoor11]

I missed the last vid but if you were sold on the pvc you might try a hot air gun and compress the end of your pvc to fit. Looking really good!

[@nsmnsm8889]

Hi , Andy would it be more Custum Look to have it more Round shape sealed closed and put a Acses hach installed, even better put a 4-6 inch Speaker for Acses . Nick NY

[@captaindrew3061]

What do you think of a 70s airex cored hull?

[@danielcetan12]

Andy, would you be willing to, build a pod for an outboard , repower

[@br5498]

Never say water can't get in... don't dare Neptune to show you that you're wrong ! ... hahaha

[@bullhippo9023]

The fiberglass laid on the Coosa looks like it is full of air bubbles ? Does the glass take polyester resin better than epoxy resin ? I have used about 15 gallons of epoxy resin on my current boat project. I still need to make a cradle for the holding tank and water tank, I am considering using polyester to make them and bond them to the boat with epoxyas you do. I like epoxy a lot, but the price and the air bubbles that just don't come out are annoying.

[@thepigwillfly5869]

Would it makes sense to put two small vertical strips on the inside of the door so when you put it in place it is sort of keyed to go into the correct spot side to side?

[@boatworkstoday]

I suspect I'm going to tweek a couple things on this ;-)

[@brianweston4671]

How often do you have to sharpen the blades on the electric scissors?

[@boatworkstoday]

Haven't had to do it yet; I suspect rather than trying to sharpen, the blades are more of a replacement item?

[@duanemiller5606]

Just a thought, what if you put hinges on the top and a latch on the bottom. Yes, you would have to round over the top edge, but you could cover that with a small amount of trim. Then if you but similar hatch covers down the length of the sides also using hinges and latches it would fit in nicely and give you enclosed storage. Granted it would be easier if the larger ones opened swinging down versus this one swinging up but it would extend the look of the cooler wells throughout the boat.

[@thomaseutin3681]

Hi Andy, i would make the radius bigger. 1/2 inches or so. The radii on the neighboring components are also larger ...

[@LaxAmigo]

Thanks Andy. Always enjoy. Side note, it seems like tons of slow rendering/inefficient jumps to/from ads this week. More than normal. I know you’re getting more popular, but does KZbin control those? And if I watch through my Patreon app, are these add free? Don’t mind the adds, but the spinning wheel/rendering/hiccup to and fro is rough on my attention deficit abilities.Thanks.

[@MrRoach-yo3mz]

Only difference I would have made if Toe Stubbing is an issue, installing all panels on the insides of the uprights with screws coming in from the sides.... Good Job, Andy, looks good

[@imabeliever244]

When you finish with the Bertram, can you squeeze my Corvette in? ;-)

[@jcdesignsandboat-works8290]

Awesome, glad we could help! But ya gotta stop uploading on Sunday mornings!😂 I always end up watching instead of working!😂😂😂

[@byronlarson227]

Second west Michigan

[@swannabe3764]

Just one comment if you were to put the opposite bevel on the top of door, it would lock itself into the top and you could put a latch on the bottom thus eliminating the need to screw it in place. And put a lip on the inside of hatch to keep it from moving side to side.

[@swannabe3764]

By putting a latch the opening on the opposite site from the fuel fill could be used as a lockable storage

[@BruceLee-xp5fc]

Ahhh a week is so long to wait lol

[@TailwalkBoats]

Think one of those circle access hatches would be a lot easier.

[@Tinker001]

Not when you need to get in there & replace the fill hose in a few years. More access = More better!

[@mwatkins2464]

Scott Miller if a fill hose only lasted a few years it shouldn’t have ever been put in to start with. It will probably be there for the life of the boat. No need to have any access to it after the lines are connected. The factory wouldn’t have made it accessible either for the reason I mentioned. No need!!! Just how many times have you replaced your fill hose on your car that is used way more than a boat?? None and if it has it’s not very often you need one replaced. I think he is overthinking all of this!!!

[@Tinker001]

@@mwatkins2464 If you look back at the last video, the fill hose is made of rubber. All rubber fuel hoses eventually deteriorate. Also, every boat I've owned has had "some" access to replace things like fuel lines. I quoted "some" because not all manufacturers get it right...

[@beewagyu]

Two things Mark. Have you ever thought of using peel ply when doing layups. You just pull it or tear it off of the layup when done and walaa there is no sanding required and the whole piece is ready to be bonded to. Also. The angle your leaving on the cover piece is fine or you could have just left a tab piece inside your kick plate at the bottom and top and have a place to fasten it as well. Cheers

[@TailwalkBoats]

It's Andy.

[@beewagyu]

Demography Now! Sorry Andy. Have built many aircraft and a boat or two done them from scratch. Just thought I would throw an idea out there. Sorry again

[@dsmt8703]

A double wall thickness may give you a larger radius for the fuel fill edges. Heck it’s just more coosa board.

[@bpickerell]

Hey Andy, I know it is too late but instead of an angled joint on the bottom, you should have used either a double roundover or a v-groove as they do with the crib boards for sailboat companionways (www.catalinadirect.com/images/products/1717/BI9001_S02_sm.jpg). I would recommend maybe attaching thin cleat along the back edge of the panel overlapping the seam on the bottom so that you can just set the panel in place and lean it back. This would self align (sideways and vertically) everything and also reduce the number of fasteners you would need.

[@markshag5149]

To clean the look up a bit why not make the bigger panel just a little longer, fit it just behind the top of gunnel ... one less joint and works just as well?

[@mwatkins2464]

OneStop CheckShop I was thinking the same thing

[@D2O2]

Yes, less visible seams.

[@chiphill4856]

Take the design a step further and eliminate the top seam by running the cover board up behind the coaming.

[@112doc]

Bevel on top should over ride the removable panel. I’ m surprised you don’t use your bandsaw more often. Well tuned bandsaw can perform bevels, dovetails, ripping, crosscutting. I recommend Kevlar gloves, you only get ten fingers.

[@jflefort9490]

how about having cut an oval shaped access hatch out of one piece, top to bottom?

[@danlucci9246]

When making a long straight cut, why are you using a jigsaw rather than a table saw or skill saw with fence? I would think you’d get a better cut and the carbide blade would take less of a beating. Thanks.

[@marklamontagne3919]

Could you not eliminate the top joint and just tuck the access door up under the gunnel by a couple inches? Would get rid of a joint and stop the possibility of water getting into that joint? The top joint is just a flat butt joint. Wouldn't water running off the gunnel leak in there? Can't wait to see this trimmed out and on the water.

[@boatworkstoday]

I thought about that and absolutely could (and still might lol). Main reason I did it this way is so that visually it looked symmetrical top and bottom. Gonna sit on it for a little bit and think about it :-)

[@daviddickmeyer5231]

My original thought was to do just that. It would save glassing in an extra piece at the top which if glassed over will make it proud of the access panel. The edges could be rounded over more if the fasteners were moved inboard and some threaded inserts were fastened to the edge panels behind it.

[@the-safari-guy]

I don’t think the contact form is working on your website. I tried to message you and it doesn’t go through.

[@slange455]

Good idea but I would have installed the tank and lines prior to closing this up

[@Tinker001]

Seems to me the whole point of the access panels is so that it's not closed up.

[@UnbeltedSundew]

I think the 1/4 inch roundover was too little. Before you did it I was thinking it was going to be like half inch or more. Even if there is a roundover it'll still look boxy unless it is comparable to the other ones on the boat and I think the tightest ones I saw were around the hatch, but on great big plane like those panels it looks questionable.

[@boatworkstoday]

I agree :-)

[@richardtharp1608]

@@boatworkstoday, Check my Comment pls. Sir, and advise me Which type Resin products to Use for affordability and Strength on the finished product.. Thanks, Richard

[@svlolalouise9763]

First again South Australia

[@garymeierhenry3223]

Yes....you need the round over!! and how much?? what would it feel like when you knee cap hits it! A test.... put ones leg on it and see what it feels like.... it feels sharp? you may need more. Just sayin.

[@goph999]

What is the purpose of the renovation of this motor boat? How much time and money have you spend on this boat?

[@jandreneethling5664]

goph999 I think the answer to that is simply the idea of a master craftsman using a social media platform to help and teach others the trade. I doubt time and money has anything to do with it. The value resides in paid content and the final outcome of the project..

[@mwatkins2464]

Jandre Neethling exactly true. This is a learning platform and the boat is the books used to teach fiberglass work from a master tech !!