Eagle Eye Stopped This 302 Build Just As It Was Getting Started

While I was tearing down this 1968 302 for a full rebuild, I noticed a major issue that completely stopped this build in its tracks.
Every time you do a build you need to keep your eyes open for things like this. If it had gotten missed we may have spent many hundreds to and well into a few thousand dollars in parts and machine work. This issue would have certainly brought the high of getting a new engine running, to come crashing down.

[@cereus57]

Glad you didnt get too far like you mentioned. Hope something comes up close to you all!

[@jplperformance9073]

I hope you get it figured out.

[@johnl9977]

Here in the states would be easy to find a 302 block for $50. That is not a stressed area at all, so if there are no other problems use a hard solder or brass, it will never fail.

[@Russeljfinch]

💯

[@hutchjohnson2184]

If that is the only crack, an old, old technique called metal stitching might work and I'm sure a bunch of old timers in the UK know how to do it. It's simply an overlapping series of soft steel screws put into the crack. The screws interlock and hold the metal together. This is for a daily driver approach, not racing as far as I know.

[@Mike-FoxsAbroad]

Even entry level Lock-n-Stitch kits run about $650. If I had a machine shop it may be worth the investment in the tooling. Or if this were a Boss, Shelby or Cobra Jet block. Not for a run of the mill 302. I was told this engine was. J-code 302 but the internals say it’s just a F-Code 2V 302. Nothing special.

[@jplperformance9073]

Dam that sucks

[@paulchasteauneuf2098]

Can’t believe there’s no one who can weld cast iron. Lol

[@jonsimerly9447]

Brass brads or industrial two part epoxy then moroso ceramic engine seal it and ride... good at least for a 150 shot 😀

[@robertsewell7787]

Where did you get the blue car cover for your notchback?

[@tubesteakjohnson]

Aftermarket.

[@Mike-FoxsAbroad]

Covercraft. Wasn’t cheap, but it was the only company that both made covers for a coupe and would ship to me in the UK.

[@robertsewell7787]

@@Mike-FoxsAbroadthank you, I need a good one for my dark shadow blue notch. I was actually born in Ipswich and now live in the USA, I have an aunt that lives in Colchester.

[@Mike-FoxsAbroad]

@@robertsewell7787 Nice. Not sure if you grew up in Ipswich but my wife is from Shotley.

[@robertsewell7787]

@@Mike-FoxsAbroad I lived in a small village named Debenham, I left in 1973 when i was real young to Florida, where I live now and Debenham has not changed at all. I would love to go back to visit, it was peaceful there.

[@swoopulater]

great, ya found the crack in the block. there is one single glaring piece of evidence staring ya right in your face you didn't even mention. see that nice pronounced stain in the block starting at that crack and running down to the base where the oil pan meets the block? Yep that's what coolant does, ya see it all the time when a water pump has been leaking over time and the coolant leaves a nice stain on the block to show you where the leak has been running. Coolant is funny like that, it oxidizes the metal kinda like battery acid does so it leaves a nice trail where it runs. judging from the size of that stain and how pronounced it is that has been doing that for a little while. I'm really surprised you didn't mention that right off being what gave you that idea there might of been a crack there during your diagnosis. I saw it right away when you first showed it, of course you already worked on that area and decided to do a video on it after the fact. But... Nice tutorial on how to identify the crack itself using a magnaflux to verify exactly where it is and how big it is.