Early Kenmore 60 Series Direct Drive - Cleaning & Testing, Part 1

Originally recorded August 18, 2020.
In this part of cleaning and testing the 1986 Kenmore 60 series, I took the cabinet off and inspected the underside. One thing I noticed right off the bat was that there was some gearcase oil slung around the inside. That means it's losing oil, and that'll be a problem when I get things to a place where I can actually use this machine, as that's how transmissions die, but for now it works.
Then I just give this machine a good wiping down with some rags and an old toothbrush that DOESN'T have Corogna Bologna on it, thank you! Then I run a quick rinse cycle through it to make sure it can hold water perfectly. So far, it can!
During the rinse agitation however, there was a distinct squeaking coming from the transmission. Perhaps because it hadn't been ran with water weight in it for a while, it did that initially. But when I went to run the actual cleaning cycle through it, the noise went away.
Didn't have time to run a full on cleaning cycle with hot water and cleaner, had to come back the next day to do part 2, which will be the next video. Stay tubed!
For the fast forward segments, you'll have to listen to royalty-free music, because Susan!
Legalese:
"Fork and Spoon" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
"District Four" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
"Miami Viceroy" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...

[@jeromedavis8575]

I love this washer! Very nice design!

[@lizboz]

Yes, I do too, the pinnacle of washer designs.

[@jeromedavis8575]

@@lizboz I can't wait to see a full load on the cotton/sturdy cycle with the cabinet shut, and maybe hear it with the lid shut too so we can hear what it sounds like.

[@ericgreen4610]

Can't wait to see it in action. Kenmore was my most favorite appliance brand.

[@lizboz]

I already have a video of it washing towels you can check out. I think it was actually the next video posted after the final video of the disassembly & cleaning series.

[@ericgreen4610]

@@lizboz That washer was the exact same washer my foster mother had. That washer took me back to 1992 when I was 8 years old. That's when I became a washer fan.

[@lizboz]

@@ericgreen4610 If you were 8 in 1992, you were born in 1984. That makes you 37 now. Just for the hell of it.

[@lizboz]

That is however, not to say you weren't born after June 28th, which would make you 36 going on 37 yet.

[@ericgreen4610]

@@lizboz I'm born in 1984 so yes that would make me 37.

[@erickmorton8085]

Awesome machine

[@lizboz]

Why I have 3 now!

[@calvinmayo7990]

0:09 nice theapplienceman reference!

[@lizboz]

I've watched his videos for years.

[@patcola7335]

The 2nd most reliable top load washer design ever if not the most. Whirlpool hit their pinnacle with these.

[@lizboz]

Very well said!

[@seana806]

Funny thing you mentioned the musty smell you described since my ‘63 Whirlpool had a little bit of a smell but not much at all. I did give the tub ring a good cleaning and cleaned the magic mix lint filter since it looked like it wasn’t cleaned before it was taken out of service 15 years ago and cleaned as much of it as I could without any major disassembly and so far everything turned out good. Going back to that musty smell you described, my ‘63 Whirlpool Imperial dryer definitely had a musty smell from being closed for 15 years and it did make that funny burning smell since there was some dust on the heating element but after running for 30 minutes on the Wash N Wear cycle the smell was mostly gone but after running a few loads through it the smell was gone and after using it on sort of a daily basis it doesn’t smell like anything at all.

[@lizboz]

Yeah, what I was smelling actually wasn't really so musty, just more the water and maybe even powdered detergent smell that stuck around in it all these years. After running a tub clean cycle through it, that smell sorta went away--not entirely, but better than it was before.

[@seana806]

@@lizboz not sure what detergent was used in this machine when it was new but I am betting that it could have been Tide powder detergent. My 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII washer more than likely came with a box of Tide powder detergent when it was new and they actually did give away a box of detergent to promote Tide back in the 1950’s and early 1960’s.

[@lizboz]

@@seana806 That's plausible, and I think it's definitely powdered 'tergent that was used in this machine. You saw the dust and dried flakes coming off really easily, liquid 'tergent would NEVER have done that!

[@seana806]

@@lizboz liquid detergent probably would have created a gummed you mess as opposed to to powdered detergent. One thing is for sure, I have to be care with the amount of detergent I use in my ‘63 Whirlpool or else it will end up suds locking and even with Tide liquid it can suds lock and I’ve have that happen a few times before to me when I was washing towels but sometimes I’ll pour in a little fabric softener 2 minutes before it drains so it’ll eat up all the suds so it won’t suds lock :)

[@lizboz]

@@seana806 That's why I wish they sold Laundersol with phosphates in powdered. I know they make some versions of powdered but none of them have phosphates. Phosphates would definitely take care of that scum buildup. Great stuff!

[@wash833]

Top video I’m 🇧🇷 😁

[@lizboz]

Thanks.

[@macmaddock9603]

? I have one of these that's identical but my problem with it is that the tub or drum whatever isn't centered and Everytime it goes into the spin & rinse cycle it basically tries to rattle itself apart what do you think could be the problem and how would I fix it myself? Please let me know

[@lizboz]

Could be a number of things. Unplug the machine first of all, then check the levelness of the machine, and the floor it's on. Is the shipping strap/bolt removed? It'll be on the bottom. If all that checks out, you'll need a #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the screws securing the control panel, and open it up. Then there's a molex connector coming up from the cabinet where the cover lid switch plugs into, unplug that, and then use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the two brass clips on either side of the back panel holding the cabinet on. Then you can reach under the front of the lid, pull the cabinet off and get down to business. First thing I would do is check the skate plate, it's a triangular shaped piece of metal located under the tub. It sits on top of the base support which comes up on three legs from the base frame on the front corners and the back center. It'll have a flared-up side on it with angled notches on all three corners, and the flat side of it should be facing front. If it's not, then it needs to be reposited. You'll need another person (or 2) to lift the tub off it's base while you reposition it. This video actually shows an easier way to do it so you don't need another person(s) to do it-->kzbin.info/www/bejne/rV7SY32Zmb6Bia8 And if that fails, the wear/snubber pads may need replacing, they're not that expensive, but it will require lifting the tub up, or even removing it entirely, and you'll need a spanner wrench to do that, which isn't that expensive either, and well worth the money-->www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HR5H616/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to the wear pads for that machine-->www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/154558?c=54 Of course, look up your own model#, because it may not be exactly my model number. That should be located on the cabinet under the lid on a metal data plate (right there in the open). Then go to repairclinic.com and search parts for your machine. If you have the spanner wrench, and the cabinet off, you're ready to remove the tub. Just use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the cap off the agitator, and you'll need a 7/16" socket w/ extension on a ratchet wrench to remove the bolt holding the agitator on (you'll have to hold the agitator in place while you unbolt it). The agitator should come up. Then you'll have to look on yours, it may or may not have a metal clip and a plastic retainer sitting around the agitator shaft. If so, then just pull those off, and remember which way they go back on (the plastic piece goes on first with one tab fitting down in a slot on the drive block, then the metal clip slides down on top of that) You'll then want to remove the white plastic tub cover ring on top of the tub. There are 8 tabs that push down and out to release. (Make sure the gasket seal under that is still good) Then, take your spanner wrench and align it with two of four notches on the spanner nut, which screws on top of the drive block. Cover the side of the tub you're going to use a hammer on with a towel, so you don't chip the porcelain basket, and then break the nut loose counter-clockwise with the hammer. If the nut doesn't want to come loose, keep trying until it does, it may just need some persuasion. When you do get the nut off, you should be able to just pull the basket up and out. If that doesn't want to come out, you can take a folded up towel, cover the rim of the basket, and just hit the covered area with hammer, go all the way around the sides of the basket, and keep doing that until it breaks free. Then you'll need to disconnect the water level pressure hose from the air dome located on the lower rear-right hand side of the plastic outer tub. Then you'll need a (I forget if they're 1/4" or 5/16") nut-driver to remove the screws for the aluminum suspension spring brackets (same places as the support legs coming up from the frame)--the back one you can use one of the holes drilled in the back panel to reach the back bracket. Disconnect the tub-to-pump hose down on the front-left hand side of the tub, and you should be able to pull the outer tub up to take a look at the pads. I would say don't do all of that though unless you're absolutely sure that's what it is. There are plenty of videos on KZbin you can look up to help you figure out what the issue is. Could also just be something simple like a broken counterbalance spring. That's the one in the back side coming vertically from the base frame. If it were broken, you'd know, as your tub would be leaning towards the front of the cabinet. Let me know how it works out, and hope this helps!

[@lizboz]

I forgot to add that if you do plan on pulling both the inner & outer tubs out, it'll be TONS easier if you take the fill spout out. Look closely at the back panel where the spout is mounted, there will be cutouts in the panel where you can bend, or squeeze the two sides of the fill spout inward (or outward, some of them are different) and tilt it up and pull it out of the panel. And if you want the extra 2 cents of convenience, you can remove the spout from the fill hose attached to it by taking a pair of pliers and squeezing the hose clamp off, then pull the spout off.

[@AlanG58]

Hello! Very good video, I've got the same machine. Just today it died on me. It will no longer spin and drain. I tilted it backwards a bit but as its direct drive I don't see the typical coupler like my mom's old washer had. Up until it had not been fully draining every time, if that means anything. Any help would be appreciated, I hate to get rid of it.

[@lizboz]

If there's no coupler, you have a belt drive machine. They were both commonly made with the same consoles around this time before they discontinued them after 1986 and switched over completely to direct drives. I sold this machine a month ago and subsequently bought a belt drive just like it. Could be a number of things wrong with it. Does the motor still run but it just won't function properly? A video would help to better determine what's going on. Hope you get it fixed!

[@Sharkie626]

The oil is likely from the spin clutch seal. You'll have to open it up to replace it, but it shouldn't be too hard. Not sure what that sound is though. I know it's not the spin gear because that doesn't turn in neutral or agitation.

[@lizboz]

Yep, that'll hopefully be next spring or summer's project! Yeah the _spin_ gear is only supposed to turn in spin, so it's probably just continuous moving parts running rough from the lack of oil.

[@jeromedavis8575]

Probably the motor itself. I've heard Whirlpool do that while running. Alex Krupkin has a 1990 whirlpool washer which hums during fast agitation.

[@jaykay18]

Nice machine! They used to mount the capacitor in the controls panel for ease of service in case it needed to be changed. Over the years, they decided the copper wire was too expensive, so they mounted it by the motor, much shorter wire run. The other option I could think of is perhaps people were having problems with the motor starting due to the long wire run for the capacitor, so they shrtened it, and as a consequence, it's harder to service. You gotta get a spanner wrench, they're only like 20 bucks, probably on Amazon. But there's nothing wrong with the tools you got. I much prefer a brush that's something like the 3 pack that Harbor Freight sells, instead of a toothbrush. The handle on those is a lot more flexible; toothbrush handles aren't. I see you used the right stuff, an absolute AWESOME cleaner. Never seen one with a bottom panel, that's interesting. I suppose it's good in a sense, might catch very minor drips, but rather unnecessary as I don't think it really adds any structural rigidity; the frame is rigid enough. The gear oil slinging is probably due to a bad seal on the transmission. It's probably a very slow leak. Probably disassembling it, clean up the clutch, possibly open the transmission and inspect. I'd say all that is in order. In fatc, after hearing it run, I don't like that "zzzzzzzzz" sound it's making, might be a sign of a worn nylon gear in the transmission. There is a product that's powdered that has phosphates in it that you can get. I forget the name offhand but I think it's at worldwidejanitor.com.

[@lizboz]

Yeah I figured because of the greater resistance, they shortened it. There's a lot of stuff I need to get but just haven't gotten around to it. The Laundersol and spanner wrench have been at the top of that list, I need to get those. The bottom panel I'm willing to bet was probably influenced by everyone else who had been putting bottom panels on their machines. Just more of an trend or aesthetic thing in this case maybe. Indeed, a good transmission servicing is in order, like I said in my other comment though, that'll be next year when I can _get things in gear._ Don't want another "The GE Washer is DEAD!" scenario! I'm not quite sure what you mean by the "zzzzzzzzz" sound, you'll have to be more specific. I know it was squeaking loudly when it was agitating the first time, and then there was the "watery whipping" sound in the tub when spinning.

[@jaykay18]

@@lizboz That's what it sounded like to me, through the computer. In real life it sounds different. It was just a constant sound, kind of sounded like the nylon gear in the transmission was running without lubrication. It may have leaked so much oil out, that may be the case. Anyway, it's not a difficult thing to do, the neutral drain kit, and it includes a new nylon gear. Oil is simply 90 weight gear oil. I'd say if anything, the seal at the top of the transmission where the spin tube comes out is where it's leaking from; if it were the transmission seal itself, you'd see seepage from there. But when the trans is opened up, you'd lay down a new "gasket" using Permatex.

[@lizboz]

@@jaykay18 Well the nylon gear in trans should only actually be turning when it's spinning. But I think I know what you mean, it sounds pretty "dry" when running. Will definitely put some new oil in, and a new neutral drain kit and everything. I think I'll actually do that do both the 86 and the 92 Kenmores, the 92 could definitely use a new ND kit. That machine gets a lot more use now that we've had the in-laws staying with us. Good to know about Permatex, I'll keep that in mind.

[@jaykay18]

@@lizboz Yeah, just watch the "walloutlet" guy's video (theapplianceman) on the ND kit. He dumped the oil out. xjoe81x and I did one of his machines (haven't posted my series on that yet). It was pretty easy. We didn't drain or add any oil, seemed to be just enough in there.

[@lizboz]

@@jaykay18 Yep I've watched both theapplianceman's and xjoe81x's videos on that.

[@jeromedavis8575]

I'm looking forward to seeing a full cycle with the machine in its original state on cotton/sturdy. It would be interesting to check out the turnover!

[@lizboz]

Now that, I can do, in fact I already did it. Video upcoming, but that'll be the last of the videos on that machine for this year, as it's in storage now freezing.

[@jeromedavis8575]

@@lizboz I'd keep an eye out for that video.

[@patcola7335]

I currently have that agitator in my Amana NTW4516FW3. Changed out the DAA.

[@lizboz]

I looked up your model# and you have a new belt-drive one. Hate to say it, but however bad that DA agitator was before, the straight vane will only be worse in a new one.

[@patcola7335]

@@lizboz Actually I filmed a bunch of loads with it. It's pretty good. I owned 2 dd washers. One from1988 and one from 2003. Both good machines. I like the straight vane with the longer stroke in these washers. It also isn't as bulky like the DAA I took out. I will say that my machine can turn over a queen comforter with the DAA. slow but it does it.

[@lizboz]

Well if it works fine now, it won't one day when something critical and exorbitantly expensive fails. That's why I could never own of those, too much tomfoolery there. My three vintage machines will just have to serve me for the rest of my life.

[@patcola7335]

@@lizboz I moved into a new home and those were installed. When it fails it fails. Everything breaks my man.

[@lizboz]

Oh I understand that. Vintage machines are allowed to break after years of service, and even then it's usually just something miniscule the first time around. And parts will be around for a while yet.

[@Jerry-gf9bf]

Previous owner probably put the lid down to much when was still wet that would cause the musty smell always leave your lids open when not in use, and the smell will eventually leave. I love the soundtrack music of this video could you give me the artist name and the song titles?

[@lizboz]

Apologies for the late response. I used to do that years ago and leave it open, but what I found would happen is the machine would get very dirty quick. I find that leaving it shut and just running an empty cycle with hot water & cleaner through it once every 2-3 months works fine at keeping it nice and fresh. Not to mention hot & warm water washes (warm rinses as a bonus) and powdered detergent also play a part in preventing buildup. Artist and song names are all listed in the description.

[@whirlpoolz1200]

The oil on the transmission and its mounting studs might mean the bearings and shaft seals are starting to fail. Being that it spins ok, might just be the shaft seals. That’s my theory anyway, I’ve seen this before on a direct drive I fixed for a friend. What a pain in the ass that was, and if you do choose to replace them, a 1-1/8” socket and extension bar is used to replace the sleeve bearings, the seals can be removed with a slot head screwdriver. Also a heavy (3 Lbs or more) sledge hammer is required, a standard claw hammer won’t do jack squat. These sleeve bearings and seals support the spin tube and there is a seal at the top of the spin tube where the agitator shaft protrudes from. Just giving you an idea on what might be causing the oil “spill”. Hope this is of use to you! :)

[@lizboz]

Thanks for that! We'll see when I get into it what kinda shenanigans we run with.

[@whirlpoolz1200]

@@lizboz I try to be helpful whenever I can. Hope the diagnosis and repair goes well whatever it might be, and hopefully your friendly neighbourhood parts store or site has what you need.

[@lizboz]

I appreciate that! Yeah, I'll have to sift around for a neutral drain kit, as last I checked, Whirlpool decided to discontinue making it. Hopefully that doesn't mean they're going to stop manufacturing all parts for older machines.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

Good ole Kenmore😄, they don’t make them like they use to :/, also what’s your favorite agitator design that Kenmore had?; just curious:). For me personally I would say the Swirl vane agitator that had the large fabric softener head was my favorite!

[@lizboz]

I don't know if I'd say I have a favorite, they all did an excellent job at what they were supposed to do. I will say the old Vari-Flex agitator they put in the upper end early 70's Kenmores was pretty cool, gave you the adjustability for more or less aggressive agitation. Maybe as far looks, I'd say the old roto swirls or the triple action direct drive were pretty sinister looking, ready for business everytime.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

@@lizboz niceee, i forgot to mention a close second would be the triple action agitator that has the shorter fabric softener dispenser, that was used in the Kenmore Elite models was also nice and the Whirlpool gold series version.

[@solarflea4115]

I’d have to say it’s a tie between the Pentaswirl and the Rotoswirl. I know the Pentaswirl is disliked by many because of its poor performance, but once you throw a larger pulley on the motor, it becomes an absolute beast of an agitator. Watch this to see what I mean: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppPbXoJol7Sqias However, I’m not really that knowledgeable about all of Kenmore’s different agitator designs.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

@@solarflea4115 okay I’ll take a look at the video I’m not to familiar with the really old washer or at least the agitators😄, since I’m 21

[@patcola7335]

@@solarflea4115 The first agitator Kenmore used in their first automatics was the bakelite straight vane. My mom had the same one in her 1963 Kenmore 600 series. That was the one that started it for me. Those early agitators were steroidal with their huge fins.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

Also if you can get your hands on either a Frigidaire gallery top load washer with the indexing tub, and or GE top washer that has a flex agitator and it has the “chug chug”agitation sound, may you do a video of the machines doing a load of clothes?, thank you :)

[@lizboz]

Any machine I ever get in will have a video on it one way or another.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

@@lizboz ahhh prefect!, thank you responding and also I subbed!:). I like Kenmore, Whirlpool, GE, but a Frigidaire gallery series top load washer with a swirl vane agitator is my dream washer, I know the indexing tub is a draw back of those machines:/, but ever since I was kid after seeing one in action on both KZbin and in person at a military base in Massachusetts I feel in love with them, and the hum of the motor, and I really like how gentle the slow agitation is on then :).

[@solarflea4115]

@@matthewmajestic1013 Is this the GE washer you are talking about? kzbin.info/www/bejne/a33OnGx7rdOld8U The only Frigidaire washer I am familiar with has 5 straight veins on the agitator and it does have an indexing tub. It also lacks a tub break and hence it has a lid lock. My sisters father and my brothers father both had one of these, and my late uncle also had one for his resort house he and my aunt rented out. If this is the Frigidaire you are talking about I am surprised it’s your dream washer. From what I have seen on the internet, so many people hated these things due to them breaking down a lot and being extremely difficult to work on.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

@@solarflea4115 yes that’s the GE I’m referring to:), also I know that Frigidaire two flex vane agitators, that included the indexing tub one had a fabric softener dispenser and one did not and they both had unique designs. One had more vanes but I believe it was shorter in height the other one had less canes but it was taller, and then they had a swirl vane or two piece agitator that had a fabric softener dispenser. I will say though after you telling that they can be hard to work on and have problems, I would definitely not be shy to get a Kenmore/Whirlpool direct drive, a early 2000’s GE top load washer (pre hydrowave), or even a Maytag legacy series top load washer that has the spin drain.

[@matthewmajestic1013]

@@solarflea4115 here’s an example of type of Frigidaire that I like, I’m not sure why but when I was kid I just fell in love with the way it agitates, the sound of the motor humming and the quirky way of this machine with the indexing tub and no tub brake. I also really like the design of the control panel on the gallery series at the time they had three different colors schemes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGTWq5dshLV_e9U

[@ajayaustin8690]

I want to buy that

[@lizboz]

They're around.

[@jeromedavis8575]

SMH! Whirlpool couldn't leave well enough alone.

[@lizboz]

I'm assuming you mean the direct drive design altogether?

[@jeromedavis8575]

@@lizboz Yes!

[@lizboz]

@@jeromedavis8575 Like jaykay18 has always said, Corporate American Greed!

[@jeromedavis8575]

@@lizboz Exactly! At least Maytag direct drives were around from 2007-2010!

[@lizboz]

@@jeromedavis8575 They were all around until about 2010, with the exception of some of the more subsidiary brands like Inglis and Estate. I think they still make them in the stackable units, but I could be wrong.

[@jasonjennings8125]

take the inner tub out and could give it a could scrubbing and cleaning

[@lizboz]

I don't have the spanner wrench needed to remove the nut holding the tub on, or I would have. I need to get one of those.