How to Replace a Snowblower Auger Housing Impeller Bearing [Part 2]

[@retkuuu1990]

This video is perfect thank you :) in finland snow is coming soon again so i must repair my snowblower so this helped a lot 🎉

[@ultimusstatic]

You’re the man. I had my bearing replaced In a couple hours. Thanks to you, I have a used snowblower and only $40 into it! Keep up the good work.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Right on, love hearing comments like this! That's what I'm hear for! Think about subscribing, as I'm still trying to reach the new threshold of 1000 subscribers so my videos can be monetized again. Thanks again!

[@zifir4ik]

Thanks a lot for your time and effort to share your knowledge!

[@MrBen527]

Wow, that oldie actually has a ball bearing in it! The newer ones have just a pre oiled plain bearing so I just drilled out and installed a grease fitting in my new Toro 824 so I can keep it greased. Time will tell! 🙂

[@roseymalino9855]

Please expand on what you did. A little effort now which could avoid the bearing failure problem would be a big plus.

[@allrock1238]

A suggestion to anyone working on an older snow blower, while you have the auger assembly apart, pull the shear bolts out of each side of the auger and make sure there not frozen to the inner shaft (some have grease fittings for exactly this reason) otherwise the first time the machine try's to ingest a solid object instead of shearing a shear bolt or pin, it will shear the auger gearbox itself..

[@alfries9736]

Agreed. Especially if it's your snow blower. When I had mine apart I used a low temp grease synthetic with teflon in it as well from TUFF-OIL Corp. Along with anti seize and generally sanded and painted the inside of the machine as well. It's a 10 horsepower machine. Love it. I wax it every year before I put it up for the summer months.

[@Peter-976]

Excellent video! My SB just started to shake when the auger was engaged so I am going to check my IB and change if needed. Thanks for the how to!!!! New sub now.

[@Samlol23_drrich]

You win. What a great video. When I try to make them I stumble around searching for the right word sometimes- but you are spot on. Great info and really well executed. Subbed. Oh- and there is no such thing as “a little” nickel anti-seize in my world. When I break that stuff out it goes everywhere and I find it on everything for days.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Haha yea, it can make a mess, thanks for watching!

[@me109g4]

That stuff is insidious,, it sticks around for days.@@EliminatorPerformance

[@cliffbrown4217]

Your videos are the most detailed and most helpful,

[@alanjenkins7346]

Have the same 1990 blower. Wasnt blowing snow. Found the pin for worm gear was broke. Decided to get new worm gear. New shaft bearing. Rebuilt the under carriage last year

[@waynestefinashen239]

Nice job on this video, blower looks awesome with the Fire Red paint job. You could use this video to get a sponsorship from Permatex for their Nickel Antiseize use.

[@SaintCronch]

That collar is eccentric and is ment to lock when you drive it in. It should have a hole for a punch. When getting it off you punch it anti clockwise (or clockwise if someone installed it backwards) until it comes free. Don't keep pushing or it will lock the other way. Once it moves free you can remove it by just lifting it up to the axis. I'm currently working on an old gilson snowblower and it took me a while to figure out how it works!

[@tjones99]

great video set. Exact machine I am working on I believe. I note in the Parts Used section of the description you list the bearing as 09-10265 which has a 3/4" ID but watching the video you overlay 09-10264 which is a 7/8" ID bearing. Pretty sure my shaft measures 7/8" not 3/4 so you may have the part listed wrong in the description... I am still working on getting my pulley off (seized good!) so won't know for sure until that is done.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for that, this is an old video so I'm not as familiar with all the parts as I would've been when I filmed it. Keep me updated, I appreciate the communication!

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Description has been updated, thanks for taking the time to notify me!

[@andrewwoodward6560]

Good series! I like how you do things.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks!

[@5hawks]

Don't forget the melted candle wax/paraffin trick! (heat the part a little then apply wax to the joint. (not too hot or the wax will just flash off without seeping into the joint)

[@iiiquaziii1]

Good video man. I need to do this exact same thing to mine. Well done.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching Matt!

[@altonriggs2352]

Hoping you have a great 2019.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks Vernon! You as well

[@dginta7932]

Best channel going. Thanks. Is ‘Marine AntiSeize’ much different than ‘Nickel AntiSeize?’

[@EliminatorPerformance]

I think it's all the same, marine grade might stand up to water a bit better!

[@stevelauren7839]

Great video just wondering where you get the tubes from i'm in northern Ontario

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Steve Laurin we got them from a local tire shop, go in and they can probably get a set for you for cheap!

[@miketibbetts2979]

Excellent video im getting ready to do the same bearing job on a 8 28 chieftan

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@miketibbetts2979]

I tried heat and two chisels no go. I thought i had a ball joint tool but cant find it i can see how that would totally be the only way to do it. Almost got it off

[@EliminatorPerformance]

@@miketibbetts2979 yes that tool makes a huge difference!

[@jkimo1178]

I have a Honda HS724... will be replacing the bearing. Wanted to ask about the Kevlar belts and whether they are better than Honda OEM belts. Thanks again for a great video.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Technically they are "Aramid" which is basically an in between of OEM composite and Kevlar, we use them whenever we can as we've found they do in fact last much longer and we've never broke one!

[@jkimo1178]

@@EliminatorPerformance Hey, thanks. Where can I get them? From the research I've done so far, it seems they don't make belts for all makes/models.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

@@jkimo1178 3/8" belts start with 238, 1/2" are 248 and 5/8" are 258 So for a 1/2" x 35" belt let's say, the part number would be 248-035 You can get them on eBay or Amazon, or any STENS distributor!

[@michaelspeakman8924]

You can buy a new one for 599.oo ware i live. . Most we get in Central Missouri is about 6 inches at a time. That's maximum now. When I was a kid we had over 12 in at a time. And I'm happy for it

[@mebcool]

What you can buy today is absolute junk compared to the older models. Today's machines are designed to be cheap and only last about 5 - 10 years.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Correct Vic, 5-10 and sometimes they don't even make it that long, thanks for watching!

[@mikespain8655]

Nice job on this snowblower. That being said, A new one comparable to this model is about $600 bucks. So if you can actually get $500 bucks for a used snowblower, either you are really good, or the customer is not very smart.

[@michaelspeakman8924]

@@mikespain8655 they're just not that expensive here. Because we have so little snow fall. And you only use them three or four times a year. And they sit in the way.

[@joehuss6953]

I need some help. I need to replace my impeller it ate a large chunk of hidden blacktop. I have the entire auger assembly out. My bearing is shattered and off the collar or retainer but that is still stuck on. What did you use or do to get it off after heat? There is two holes for what I think would be set screws on this collar but they don't exist. Any help

[@simonmorneau7933]

Thanks again! Your the best !!👍🏼

[@YungM1yazak1]

Anti sieze. Drink. Anti sieze. Drink. It's a drinking game.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

You might not make it to the end of the video 😂

[@dj5752]

The auger belt which has those bolt belt keepers. Curious, if you needed to just change the belt only, how would you get the old one off and new one on if those studs are so close to the belt. Sorry if I'm missing something.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Sometimes you can just bend them out far enough, otherwise you need a wrench to loosen them and some pliers to back them out of the engine block

[@dj5752]

@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks

[@theflyingscotsman9902]

These bearings need a better seal ! Anyways, Replace the drive belt too while you're at it . Plus use a 15/16th " open end wrench between the Allen key bearing retainer and the pulley shaft . Then you can use the pickle fork to remove the auger pulley . There is no need to pull the auger assy out !! . Heat Allen retainer , loosen Allen bolts and pull bearing off .

[@Jtsct-l7t]

The second stage is called an impeller.

[@me109g4]

That bearing is every bit as bad as the one l am about to do,,, see how it goes.

[@M70ACARRY]

$500 is way to much. $300 tops.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Sold this unit for $450 last year! Thanks for watching!

[@M70ACARRY]

@@EliminatorPerformance likely demographics. In my area, I'd pay $75 in the shape you got it. I'd sell for $300 OBO. That unit is old and rough. A similar unit brand new, isn't much more than $450. I live in Appalachia.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

@@M70ACARRY yea I'm in Canada too so factor in exchange. Also, these older models (fully serviced) hold their value well here because people know how well they're built. The new ones are crap.

[@roseymalino9855]

@@EliminatorPerformance $450 sounds like a bargain -- used machine in A1 top condition. I'm in the mid-Atlantic area. I don't know where these guys are finding new units at the supposedly low prices.

[@FunkiesLOL]

That design are no good