FD RX7 Rotary Engine REMOVAL is EASY???

We remove our blown 13B REW rotary engine in our JDM RHD 1993 Mazda RX7 and show you how to do it DIY. It is much easier than most engine removals!
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Speed Academy videos are solely for entertainment purposes. Never perform any modifications to your vehicle that will void your warranty or in any way violate your local road going laws. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk.

[@howzertech2222]

1 - Yes, that's the factory brace 2 - That's the AST (Air separation tank). It's a Pettit racing one. It's not necessary and I've been running without one for years. The easiest way to bleed the system is to remove the top coolant tube behind the throttle body (highest point). 3 - The Greddy intake elbow lets you run more intercooler piping o ptions. The stock plastic one is pretty limited. 4 - That's a non resonated midpipe. The stock cat gets air pumped in to it during warmup to help burn fuel & oil in order to reduce emissions. The extra tubes on the midpipe are to connect to the air pump on the engine. They are there so the car doesn't throw codes and the like. 5 - Koyo Rad is great. V-mount is great. A lot of people flip their Koyo rad to go v-mount. That way, it requires minimal work to fit the water necks. 6 - Stock fans are awesome. Everyone runs them. Most aftermarket options are junk compared to the OEM fans. They also fit the Koyo rad perfectly.

[@eddierotary]

You should add, go single, twin are a pain in the ass to get them running right

[@howzertech2222]

@@eddierotary They are going single and showed their new efr setup at the end.

[@exidous6831]

Stock fans need better relays. The pack of 4 on the right side are probably melted. The tube by the exhaust goes to the air pump to heat the cat. The wire is for an exhaust over temp sensor.

[@CharlesChristena]

Howzer Tech, thanks for all your videos, they helped me a lot with my FD. =)

[@kelldog44]

If they do want to upgrade the fans, the RX8 Series 2 fan motors and blades are a direct drop replacement. Not huge upgrade but worth it if you already in there. Just did this on my FD.

[@MarkGibbons]

That is the factory strut brace. Really keen to see one of your clean builds on this. Definitely do a bridge port, don't do a rocket bunny kit and spend every minute loving your incredibly beautiful and unique car!

[@howzertech2222]

Bridgeport is stupid. I have one, lol. A small/medium street port is what DP & PT should do for their efr setup.

[@MarkGibbons]

@@howzertech2222 They are not using the car as a daily driver, they're using it as a performance orientated street car with a rough power goal of around 400whp. A Bridgeport for their scenario is the right way to go.

[@howzertech2222]

@@MarkGibbons You keep doing you.

[@s13brian]

Mark Gibbons you don’t need a Bridgeport to make 350-400whp. It’s just reduces reliability, low end torque and fuel economy. A small street port with the 7670 will do them just fine. Ask me how I know.

[@MarkGibbons]

@@s13brian I don't know Brian, how? Let's ignore the fact that I own a performance workshop specialising in rotaries and I personally have an FD SP.

[@mrnicktoyou]

I wish Mazda would make this car again.

[@BeeBeefy]

Would take them alotttt of money just to get it emission compliant

[@eddierotary]

True

[@MendicantBias1]

RX-8 has left the chat

[@randomactsofriding4850]

I knowwww we need many cars to be brought back, just like with video games we need remastered versions. They could put different motors but keep the rest the same. I would want to see fd3s,fc3s,dc2 and many more remade.

[@alfredotovar8984]

I wish they could do like a Heritage Edition or something, a limited run of a (few 😉) thousand units sold in conjunction with the new RX that they’re still cooking up, if they are.. sell the two with the same engines and update a few safety features and BOOM! A masterpiece 🙏🏼

[@scadieee]

I am expecting a Ken cameo, do not disappoint the OG fans

[@CharlesChristena]

Downpipe looks like an HKS downpipe. A pretty popular choice. I have one on my FD. I have been waiting for this series.... I hope you guys go into a lot of detail... Draw it out.... I need quality FD content....

[@UstinUrtis]

How about that skid factory shirt😍🇦🇺

[@helplmchoking]

Love it! My two favourite channels having a lil crossover moment there

[@johnny5549]

2:43 Air Separation Tank ... there is a lot of debate on the forums over removing it or keeping it. Those who keep one usually upgrade to an aftermarket one.

[@Zsword92]

I'm so keen for this build boys!!

[@Samurai6936]

Been waiting for this project! I just picked up an FD last year and can’t wait to see how you build it to get some ideas from you guys. Also, glad you’re sticking with rotary power.

[@JohnsonMac]

This rotary guy is happy. If you're looking to overhaul the suspension (pillowballs usually need replacement on these higher mileage examples) J-Auto offers them along with pretty much every bushing you'll need!

[@JTheMoneyable]

One of my favorite parts of watching you guys start a new project.

[@0ttoman]

The brace is part of the R1 package patch on the air shroud is because they deleted the stock air box and air duct that crosses over and connects there. The patch is to direct air better to the SMIC

[@thefreedomguyuk]

Thank you for not swapping the engine ! I believe some models, but not all, were born with that brace. They are pretty rare.

[@brendangallagher8292]

For a split second I thought the title meant Ken was back, aww. Gonna watch anyway because Speed Academy is GREAT!

[@Ph0enix80]

I can't wait to see the tear-down of this motor

[@7sins979]

twin turbo setup is actuated on an rpm basis. the intake runners are actuated on throttle position, secondaries come in around 30%. depending on the ecu setup the secondary injectors come on at a pre determined duty cycle. the pipe attached to the exhaust is for the A.I.R. system. if you are interested in an alternative intercooler setup to a v-mount check out the pettit cool charge III system.

[@robpetersen87]

Awesome timing, I just got my black RHD FD on Saturday. I'm not doing a race build, just going OEM+, but I'm really excited to see what you guys do with this thing.

[@krazykorean42069]

I'm learning so much from just the comments! Love seeing knowledgeable rotary guys!

[@aaronmatuszny8856]

Remove the headlight covers if you're gonna work over the engine for a long time, even a small amount of weight will snap the mounting tabs if you lean your hand on them.

[@toxicmongoose7061]

AST is the tank.. air separation tank.. should be self explanatory but yes it does separate the air cause the Radiator it very low. R1, at least in USA, was for 1993 year. R2, in USA, was for 1994-1995. I have an R1 and it comes with dual oil coolers, better shocks, no sunroof, suede seats, no rear wiper blade. I do know that Japanese models options can be slightly different. Stock fans are pretty good. Replace with an N flow Koyo in my opinion and go shrouded V mount.

[@jonccwong]

0:26 "No we're not going to swap a v8 in there, no we're not going to K-swap it" shots fired!!!! lol

[@AshrafFarrag]

FD owner since 2000: 1) The turbos are the same size. One is not larger than the other. 2) Yes, that looks like an HKS downpipe. I have a less rusty one in my garage I need to get rid of, too. The other manufacturers did not do a cast head/stock turbo flange like that. 3) Touring/PEP/PEG package only got one oil cooler. R1/R2 gets the dual oil coolers, strut brace, different shocks, non-sunroof car.

[@BroomysGarage]

The air separator tank (ast) is a factory fitted piece, but is plastic and always crack. Yours is just an aftermarket replacement. Bridgeport’s are loud, cranky and will change the way the car drives a lot. I’d leave the ports standard or an extend port and that’s it. I try to discourage cars I build for customers from going turbo Bridgeport. Check for cracks in the power plant frame as they are known to crack, and reinforce it, as well as the diff case and secondary trans mount if you intend on putting power through it. Gears and Gasoline and now you guys... wonder who else will build an FD next ! Look forward to the build.

[@Dreamweaver94]

I used to be a strict purist when it comes to keeping the 13b in here, but a powerful naturally aspirated K24 does sound amazing in an FD. 230whp and 2450lbs sounds possible and most excellent

[@TheAssass1n]

2:50 is the AST, you can get a simple cap for the coolant overflow and route it to the overflow tank in the wheel well. Easy delete.

[@MohrGarage]

Excited to see this series! We had success with the borgwarner 7670 and were able to make 400whp with our S4 FC!! Good luck and Have Fun!!

[@exportedafrican]

R1/R2 strut tower brace The intake is a petit racing intake Overflow tank is an air separation tank. It clears aeration and some folks eliminate it but no need really The intake manifold gets changed because it cracks and the inside isn’t smooth You do have a 99 plus turbo outlet pipe. The stock one has a rubber connector but yours has a bolt together piece. That’s a win. Mine blew off and landed up spraying oil onto the turbo from the intake.. Twin oil cooler is R1. Which makes me think this is a 93. That “egr”pipe is actually where the air pump injects air to pass us spec emissions. It flows into the cat. You can remove the air pump that’s in front of the turbo at the top. It isn’t pumping anywhere.

[@cib2413]

The car seems to have usual mods to the exhaust, 3" downpipe, mid pipe and cat back with filters. I bet this is why it blew if it wasn't tuned for those modifications. The factory ECU isn't able to adjust to more than one or two flow mods max, say an intake and a cat back only.

[@timocallaghan4408]

Honestly, that blue color of the front bumper is really nice.. Should keep it that colour or somewhere in the vicinity

[@glenography1536]

Digging the lack of timelapse. It's def a welcome change. Excited to keep up with this project.

[@johnny5549]

Yes! Excited for this project!

[@traxnada]

The air tank is needed on stock RX7 if the car is tracked... Stock FD RX7 end up spilling their coolant everywhere without them when you park it after a few hard laps... That prevents it. All the stock FD I've brought to the track ended up doing it when this wasn't installed.

[@altimatic2183]

No way! Rotary work has begun!

[@nsunfd2689]

that is a factory tower bar. looking forward to another FD build after Pete's.

[@vincentradziecki7470]

So excited you guys are working on a Rotary. DP it must have taken a lot of convincing bc I know PT hates rotaries!

[@notsponsored103]

Cheap RX7 + rebuilt engine = good investment ☺

[@matthewnovak7351]

YESSS EFR IWG TURBO KIT LETS GOOO

[@carlosernestolh2765]

God Bless you guys for keeping the Rotary!!! that is the way is supposed to be.... not gonna lie I was worried you were gonna swap it for something els..... glad you cleared that out right at the beggining. Rotary FTW!!

[@BADDTIMES]

So excited for this build

[@frozenpete788]

Planning a track battle with short Ben's k swapped rx7? 😁

[@Kidkato]

That dude is hilarious. Hes way more focused on trying to make his cars faster by mods/weight loss than actual seat time and how to actually drive the car faster.

[@TforTouge]

Kidkato Kswapping an RX7 🤮

[@Kidkato]

@@TforTouge Its just funny to me that hes so obsessed with shedding weight off of the civic to gain a faster time when he should be focusing more on seat time. Those pro/pro am dudes who ran his car before the weight shedding showed you can obtain a fast time without any extra mods.

[@TforTouge]

Kidkato I mean it seems he’s getting a good amount of seat time at Gridlife although I feel like Gridlife is more for people who have had a good amount of track days under their belt. He’s got that sweet KZbin $ so why not spend it on optimizing the car right?

[@Kidkato]

@@TforTouge I dont know im just old fashioned. I believe that if youre good at something your skills should heavily outweigh the equipment/tools you use.

[@tinchoelhoyo]

I like that you are repping The Skid Factory. That's a great channel too!

[@081588101]

Looking forward to this! :) The Greddy elbow is part of the Greddy V-mount-kit which is worth every penny. The original fans for the radiator are also quite capable, i have them mounted on my radiator and they work exceptionally well. I would also suggest to keep the Air seperator tank, you have a little more overall fluid capacity, it helps bleeding the system and there is no real reason to get rid of it. And of course single Turbo because simplicity. btw i have a nice new custom made single turbo manifold just like yours in the end for sale, if anyone might be interested.

[@TankRust]

Very excited for this build! It’s gonna be a ripper with that EFR setup! Great video as always, guys.

[@kenku5125]

Looking forward to the rests of this series.

[@ChutneyInc.]

Definitely going single turbo (deleting rat's nest). I bet the engine is good and the turbos leaking oil is the main problem. Do a compression test. The exhaust maybe full hks but i didnt see the muffler. Its an R1 model dual oil coolers no sunroof upgraded suspension package

[@HatTrick-oi8fi]

Nice little friendly jab at Gears and Gasoline there with the K swap comment haha

[@masetcp]

A lot of RX7 guys use the stock fans they are very powerful.

[@johnny5549]

That's a factory R1 strut bar 1:22

[@s3ns3ble]

You boys just keep on giving. Thanks for all the amazing projects.

[@of_lion22]

So excited for this car and build process. Should be an entertaining fight against an S15.

[@SilverScarletSpider]

I like the FD and FC Mazda RX-7 so much more than a RX-8.

[@alonelydilophosaurusjwa4346]

No love for the fb?

[@SilverScarletSpider]

Purge Trooper, hmm good point. Even the RX-7 FB is better than a RX-8.

[@alonelydilophosaurusjwa4346]

Dreamy it’s a classic

[@walterharris6191]

I'm glad you guys are doing this I'm excited to learn more about rotary stuff!

[@Hunac-Ceel]

Is this a new build? I'm hyped regardless 😁

[@Mad-Maverick]

Watching them do this fills me with a sense of dread given how little they know about a FD. I will second what Howzer said about the Koyo Rad being the goto with stock fans. Also, temp gauge and boost control are the best initial mods for the car. The factory temp gauge is not very good at warning you ahead of time of rising temps. Also, if you track this, get a fuel tank baffle at least. I would recommend a surge tank though. Just grabbed the Radium unit for mine.

[@6pakgangproductions]

You guys should join the rx7 pages on Facebook, so much information on there for you guys on your new build.

[@09BertoSS]

Forge makes a good aftermarket BPV with stiffer spring rate for the Borg Warner turbo 👀

[@supertedogpriken]

you guys should do a Veilside Fotune body kit on the RX7. It is the best looking body kit ever made.

[@ChickenDaddie]

So stoked. You guys are awesome and can't wait to see how the fd comes out

[@jeremyhoyle01]

11/10 for The Skid Factory T

[@6pakgangproductions]

Yes it’s Factory strut bar !!

[@ZRemm]

You should V mount it’s an efficient way to cook the car vary well

[@danunk]

For the love god, please go V-Mount with a Turblown turbo kit!

[@SDKwarrior]

really cool video. i love the way you guys set these videos up and go thru everything.

[@charlesshamseldin9555]

350-400whp is the sweet spot

[@nissanfang35]

Howzer tech already answered most of your questions. And that air filter setup is aftermarket, oem has a plastic intake box with those same 4 outlets and a standard square air filter. And some more info for the engine rebuild series. Pineapple racing sells porting templates if u guys are going to try the diy rout on the rebuild. I went with the street port template. Feel free to ask me questions ig@nesto13b been in the game/struggle for a minute hahah

[@murtgman]

Nice skid factory shirt dave.

[@hobbawobba]

Wooo rotary. Lookind forward to this series aye! That oem blue is a brilliant colour 👀

[@cib2413]

I made 350 whp on the stock air box (which your car doesn't have) with the tiny intake tubes and tracked the car 4 years that way on twins. I don't think the size of the hoses are that restrictive and neither is the factory plastic throttle body elbow. Remember, you have two intake pipes going to two turbos separately. More than enough flow. People get rid of the plastic intake elbow because they want bling polished chrome elbows. The twin turbos max out at about 350whp reliably with a better intercooler and water injection. It's their manifold design that is the key restriction from pushing them harder than 15-16 PSI. After that you don't really make much more power. Just a ton of heat that without a lot of water injection just kills them quickly.

[@wd8005]

EFR 7670 is perfect for a mild build something like around 300-350hp on pump gas, E85 can get you upto 400hp & if you're planning to do a track car, I suggest selling the EFR 7670 & Go with a EFR 8374 because the EFR 7670 is so tiny that I think I've read it somewhere that a EFR 7670 produces heat as much as the stock twins, Rotary's & Heat don't mix well I'm not saying that the EFR 7670 won't work but if you're upgrading just to make the same power as the stock twins it doesn't make sense at all. EFR 8374 14.5psi Pump Gas makes around 400hp & responsive also 3200rpm full boost & with the EFR 8374 you have headroom if you want more power, but for an FD RX7 400-450hp is good enough. EFR 7670 full boost at 2800rpm faster than Stock Twin Turbo just to give you an idea. I also suggest running methanol injection not for more power but added reliability & it cleans the carbon off the motor. You can get a Methanol Tank that fits on the rear, Canadian FD RX7 came with Windshield Washer on the Rear and it has a Windshield Washer Tank inside the Trunk so it's completely bolt on with any FD RX7, You can buy it from Sakebomb Garage.

[@felixlugo9109]

Aww now we talking 13b definitely make good power. I have a 87 rx7 13b with borg Warner turbo, intake and exhaust were enlarged and potted and I’m still using 4 injectors and I make 620hp and I could rev to 12k the problem all that power car likes to go side ways on the streets but with big track tires definitely goes straiter.

[@imtheboss48]

YES! So keen for this build.

[@gav240z]

Yes standard strut brace.

[@nickgallo988]

That riveted patch on the duct is because the stock setup has a cover that redirects airdrop that hole to the intake.

[@j.lrx7559]

Can’t wait to see more content on this FD. You might want to keep it black. Since the color black was a more desirable color to have for the FD model. Well in the U.S. market and your home town of Canada 🇨🇦

[@727drifter]

I hope you do a left hand drive swap to this car.

[@theo.k]

Beautiful E28 in the back 😍😍 Someone should snap it up if it's not already gone. I can only wish. Freude Am Fahren !

[@Ryan_Revier]

Following the specs of rotaries engines.

[@WickedMachineWorks]

Skid Factory represent!!!

[@nehok]

Can't wait to see how this car turns out! Loooove fds

[@JoJoDotCom888]

Excited to see what kind of number you guys put down with the EFR 7670 setup, I have a EFR 8374 and absolutely love it. Go V-mount for extra coolness factor (puns intended) :D

[@uniquelypositive]

Now this is a different build and going to be very interesting. Rotary and RX-7s are awesome and can't wait for the next episode! If I've missed it, can you tell me where you get these cars and what do you do to them after you finish them?

[@congduper]

Good stuff boys, cant wait to see this build

[@rocksteady8986]

SUUUUUUUPER PUMPED FOR ROTARY CONTENT!!!

[@emmanuelmorales4121]

Would have been nice to do a non turbo rotary build so you can compare high rpm k motor to an insane rpm rotary.

[@CrazyCat229]

Thanks for not dropping the 13B. I too have a blown engine fd... T_T but mine is way less stock. YES STANDARD R version factory bar.

[@CrazyCat229]

V-MOUNT! IS a must! Depending on the year it is either an r1 or r2.

[@CrazyCat229]

You should have dropped the whole front and rear subframe... much easier.

[@justythrasher]

I am excited guys, thanks for doing a rotary. #vargasbrothers #mochi

[@dereksomeda4198]

convertibles need extra bracing . this car has 2800lbs of lightness w torsional rigidity due to that under hood brace and hardtop creating a more spherical structure that may be superior to a S2000. moving stucture closer to the outside top surfaces (top of car) is most efficient at creating rigidity per mass. Think of a hollow spherical shell as having the best ratio of torsional rigidity per mass compared to having some mass in the middle. FD owner

[@CrescentKnife]

Super excited for this series! I love me some rotary content.

[@tylerking4324]

We need a vargas in canada now.

[@BloxFruitsSnowman]

for sure, another solid build

[@modernvisionscc]

You guys should check out Defined Autoworks. They do lots of rotary stuff including 3 and 4 rotor. Rob Dahm has them do some work for one of his 4 rotors engines.

[@noemendozanava9038]

I'm here since the first rotary (Ken's) in that cold shop

[@S-Kidz]

I think a v mount is the way to go with rotary's it's what I see a lot on them.

[@noobatnothing]

hit up ROTARY SCIENCE! hope he can squeeze you guys in and balance and lighten the rotors!

[@logitikes]

Should have hit up gleaseman for 13b turbo manifolds, theyre a work of art, and hes local.

[@speedacademy]

Budget wouldn’t allow it but yes its a work of art.

[@sharatraman8022]

I can already say that I love this build haha

[@rynorx7]

Nice this will be a great build with the 7670. I am about to do a 8374 IWG with the turblown manifold. Before I start I need to figure out what intercooler/radiator to do. I'm thinking v mount... off the shelf is expensive for anything good so looks like a custom job with good quality core is the go with my alloy radiator flipped. Interested to see what you guys do. My greddy elbow arrived today will make life easier over the stock plastic one. I'm sure they are good if you were using an upgraded stock mount.. Cheers

[@cib2413]

Custom V mount will cost you not too far off an off-the-shelf unit FYI. Make sure you port the internal wastegate or you will forever have boost control and spike issues. The IWG is often too small at lower boost levels to prevent spike or creep.

[@rynorx7]

@@cib2413 hey man hows it going? I'm in Aus so not many options. Any decent kit from overseas is like 4 grand+ by the time I get it here. I can order a plazmaman core (made in aus) drawn to my specs with custom end tanks for 1300. I can do the rest of the fabrication at home so I'm not too concerned I will blow the budget. I don't plan on running low boost. If I encounter spikes or creep there are other ways to control it other than porting the WG.

[@cib2413]

@@rynorx7 Ok, fair enough. If you have your own fab skills you'll save a lot. I don't so I was commenting on the fact that when I got custom cores priced up with the brackets and pipework by a shop it was basically the same to just buy a Greddy V Mount kit which was only a couple hundred extra.

[@rt4wd_wolff]

Loving the Skid Factory shirt 🏭

[@mondomoleno.3404]

Things I know about the FD RX-7: 1) Rotary engine makes cool sounds, lots of power, bring spare fuel. 2) Damn that looks cool.

[@mugen389]

Im glad to see you stayed rotary. I wouldn't judge this car by what horrors you unearth here. Seconds into this video you can already tell previous owner didnt take of the vehicle at all. @howzer_tech answered all your questions and the last guy in his replies @gav240z explains the logic behind it. Im sure you have already but just incase check out rx7club.com… there is a lot of accumulated knowledge on there. Cheers looking forward to this