Ford Windstar P0171 P0174 Upper Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement

[@lambohaha]

Great video. I have to do this as well as changing the lower intake gaskets because of oil leaks. But after watching this I'm not dreading it as bad as I once was. Everything looks pretty simple. Thanks for your time in putting this together.

[@gerardopalos9912]

I had these codes in my Windstar for many years without having an idea how to get rid of them until I saw your video.Thank you so much! You saved me a lot of money and big headache!👍

[@omriherron9364]

Did it fix your codes I have the same codes to ?

[@MyCatInABox]

Hey, man-- Wanted to thank you for taking the time to record and upload all these videos to KZbin. It really helps all us "grease monkey" guys when it comes to diagnosing/repairing our vehicles. Most of us here aren't necessarily making a living out of auto repair, but rather we're trying to just keep our All-Important vehicles road worthy and dependable, so we can just get to and from work, where we continue to claw and fight daily on our way to retirement. ...And having your knowledge & expertise (as well as countless others who have their own Vehicle Repair channels) available 24-7 in video form is SO good, I think it may even kinda spoil us : )

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Chris17psi I know right, youtube is a great resource.

[@Natsumidragneelkim]

@FordTechMakuloco I like the dpfe sensor that is located on the two dpfe tubes it makes removing the upper intake so much easier

[@brad2548]

Much necessary and important information for those of us that cant afford to pay someone else to do our needed auto repairs. Thank you so much. God bless you👍🤠

[@eriche2163]

One of the best auto repair videos on youtube! Bravo!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!

[@gtrob1]

Thank you so much for this walk-through. It was super helpful and I believe I have finally fixed the P0171 and P0174 codes. I also notice a white bushing was busted on the Intake Manifold Runner Controls, I replaced one earlier, but this one wasn't accessible without taking the clamshell off. To save myself the stress and to have ample room, I did remove the wiper cowl and a couple other parts just to have a real good look at everything around the top side of the engine. I was tempted to see if I could get to the lower intake manifold and replace those gaskets, only because the set I got Mehle included those. I decided to skip that. lol Again, thank you so much for all the info and video!!!

[@denniskelly6396]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH for putting this video together, I have been struggling for months with cylinder misfires and replacing the coil pack, cables, plugs and finally a person at an Autozone told me about your video and I just gave it a try today. You did your video so thoroughly that it was easy to follow along step by step and do it. The only hitch I had was with the torque wrench (I never used one before and snapped the bolt in the engine and had to get it replaced). Other than that, I was able to get the car all put back together and running again. It is too soon to say if that was the exact problem, but I am sure it needed it just the same. There was black all over the inside of the engine, coming out of the tail pipe and I am gathering it might have been a blockage or something, but not totally sure. Suffice it to say, I REALLY appreciate the time you spent in putting it together, it really helped!! Thanks again!

[@haggismacbunk]

What a great video! I did this update at the same time as I was replacing the spark plugs, wires and ignition coil. No more codes! Cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor and installed a new PCV valve, too. I would like to share my tip to find the long side of the clamshell gasket. I held the gasket up by one of the locator tabs, and then very gently and very slowly pulled down on the other locator tab. There was just enough difference in length so that the shorter side slack would start to slowly tighten while there was still visible slack on the long side. Did I say slowly yet??? After placing the gasket in the cleaned gasket groove, I could run my clean gloved finger along the length of the gasket in one direction or the other to make the minor adjustments to center the locator tabs, and remove any lumps or bumps. Also, at 116,000 miles, the vacuum lines to the EGR vacuum regulator valve on the backside of the plenum didn't want to budge, so I disconnected (unbolted) that, one stud screwed out of the plenum, one stayed in. Again thanks for the ( Brilliant! ) video. I hope my comment may help someone who is on the short end of a long repair like I was.

[@grantolsen9007]

I have a 2003 Ford Windstar SEL, I had lean codes on both banks and without this video my check engine would still be on, I appreciatte the time and energy you put into this, Keep doing what you do man 👏

[@supervisionauto1supervisio794]

Thanks for that trick about no removing windshield washer setup. saved lots of time. First time i did one thats what i did. This time i saved about an hour.

[@NJP76]

Can not tell you how helpful this video has been. Before watching this, I never would have considered replacing the upper intake gaskets and isolator bolts. Now I am ready to tackle the job with confidence. I have been chasing a nasty misfire in my '03 Windstar for a couple months. Plugs, wires...thought we had it sorted, but nope. It acts exactly as you described: Fine at idle and low load, but under moderate to heavy load and acceleration, it is hit and miss. I am willing to bet (based on what I learned here) that it is the EGR ports. The strangest part in all of this is that the "Check Engine" light has never turned on. That's really strange since there is an obvious problem in there somewhere. ...Yet I have seen many "check engine" lights come on for no apparent problems. Oh well, after 156,000 miles, I guess it is time to give it a good once-over anyway. Ordering the parts today and will likely be tackling the job within the next week or so. Fingers crossed that this will finally sort out the issues. Thank you so much for this extremely helpful video.

[@NJP76]

Oct 13, 2016 Follow up. Over the past weekend, I went in and took the intake manifold apart. While in there, I replaced (again) the plugs and wires. This time I replaced the coil pack as well. While in there, the EGR ports didn't look too bad, but I still went in with a very fine rat-tail file and some carb/injector cleaner. I also made sure the little butterflies were operational. I cleaned everything, including the throttle body...making sure NOT to get any cleaner on the MAF sensor. Also cleaned the plastic manifold parts with Simple Green. After everything was dried (compressed air and a few hours in the sun) I put it all back together. First start was a success! It ran like new again....or at least as close to "new" ad a 156,000+ mile engine can run. Took it for a test drive and all issues seemed to be solved. This is all thanks to you and these videos. I never would have tried to tackle all of this on my own if I hadn't found these. I am sure I have saved hundreds of dollars by doing this myself. Can't thank you enough for these well detailed videos.

[@joevignolor4u949]

In all likelihood the problem was just the coil pack. It's a common issue on these vehicles. The plastic case cracks due to heat and then you get misfires under load. Also, the misfires are infrequent so you won't get a check engine light at first. Mine got a bit further along so eventually I did start getting a check engine light and misfire codes. After I replaced the coil pack and the problem went away I put the old coil pack back in temporarily as an experiment just to be sure. Sure enough the misfires came back. Then I put the new pack back again in and the problem went away again and it hasn't come back since.

[@joevignolor4u949]

Here's a few things I've learned from experience over the years that might help save you a lot of unnecessary work the next time. Misfiring type symptoms are typically caused by ignition system problems. In contrast, vacuum issues such as leaks cause drivability problems like poor throttle response and on newer vehicles you will get check engine lights and vacuum related trouble codes like P0171 and P0174 or unusually high fuel trims. In your situation the misfiring under load problem was never a vacuum leak or anything to do with the EGR system either. Instead it was totally ignition related. As such all the work you did pulling the plenum and all that was nothing but a waste of time and money. Instead all you really needed to do was to replace the coil pack. Also, it's interesting and very important to understand why engines often misfire only while under heavy loads. It has to do with the changes in electrical resistance across the spark plug gap under different load conditions. When the engine is under a light load and the throttle is only slightly open there isn't a lot of fuel/air mixture being packed into the cylinders. This causes the electrical resistance across the plug gap to go down, so it's relatively easy for the spark to jump across and fire the cylinder. However when you open the throttle to accelerate you are packing more fuel/air mixture into the cylinders and into the spark gap on the plugs. This increases the electrical resistance of the gap and makes it harder for the spark to jump across the gap and fire the cylinder. As such if there are any marginal components in the ignition system, such as the coil pack, wires or plugs, you will get misfires but only under a heavy load. Understanding the dynamics of the combustion process inside an automobile engine can help you to do proper and efficient problem diagnosis. Hope this helps.

[@NJP76]

@Joe Vignolo: Thank you Joe for the replies. Much appreciated. Well, the reality is that the spark plugs were absolutely shot as well. A couple even gapped out over .090", and the center electrode was burned almost completely off one of them. Honestly, I am surprised the engine ran at all. I did find a couple of bad O-rings in the intake, plus a couple of the isolator bolt grommets were cracked, so it turns out that did need to be done...and it was a good learning experience for me. As for the coil pack, yes, it was indeed cracked in several places. There was even a crack in the epoxy underneath. In reality, the coil pack, new plugs and wires probably have fixed the issues, but I am glad I tore the intake plenum apart to replace those parts as well. Thank you again for the time and thought you put into these responses. Hopefully others will see these and follow the advice you are offering here. It is definitely good advice.

[@irynajohnson7083]

Joe, thanks for the info! I have 171 & 174. Stumbles on acceleration and to a lesser degree at highway speeds. You are suggesting that it may be a coil instead of the isolator bolts? I knew I needed to upgrade to the green bolts for this project, but what are the white and blue gasket part numbers? Are they required or optional?

[@saponi78]

man this is going to save my life i checked around and when i did they told me it was goign to cost me $1200 to do this i can do this own my own now thank you so much. you are the MAN.

[@mtsanchez27]

Was the quote on a big shop?

[@trafficsignalman]

I wish I would have had this resource when I needed to do this on my 2001 Windstar. Had to bumble through it in 2007. This would have saved me a LOT of time and frustration. In 2014 I did it again, and discovered the IMRC bushings were gone. That is when I found your channel and THAT saved me time, money and frustration.

[@edesir]

I studied your video for months before taking on this task and I have to say it was easir than it looks. month later and my codes has not returned. The previous owner used gasket sealent to "patch" leak and installed the twin vacuum line offset in the wrong hole leaving 1 line and port open. THANKS!! for posting vid. :)

[@edesir]

Thanks to this video I fixed it about 3 years ago. the codes are back and im gonna run this van to the ground cause I'm not doing this again. :)

[@BobKontak]

Thanks for the video. Also, the IMRC seals on the passenger side of the intake manifolds can suck air. Plenty of lip service on how the PCM is designed to handle some vacuum leakage at the shaft/manifold interface but when the engine literally bogs down when carb/brake cleaner is sprayed at the shafts tells the story. Around $500 for the new intake manifold(s) but have read there is a back-woods work around - lots o' labor - using the green AC type o-rings to re-seal. Also have read the PCM can be flashed to accept a bit more vacuum leak before setting 0171/0174 code. As to car in question, installed the green clam shell seals. They were definitely distorted.

[@pedrourena6252]

Thank you brother for taking the time to do this video. It made the job so much easier!

[@JohnDoe-mp1zk]

Would love to see lower too. Thanks for putting this up. Extremely helpful.

[@saponi78]

This was the best video out here for this. The only problem i had afterwards was i realized that i was missing a canection on from the cgr and the vacuum line from the manifold vacuum line it was a red hose that connected to a T that connected into a black hose that ran in side to the AC I figured out it was an AC vacuum hose report that hooked on to a place on the passenger side firewall and everything is good to go thank you very much

[@davidvasser631]

Great video. Didn't have the codes, just an excessive amount of oil being lost and what was thought to be a rod knock on acceleration. The jury is still out on the oil usage but following your video, changing gaskets, isolator bolts, and cleaning out the EGR ports got rid of the suspected knock. The engine is so quite at a stop light that had to look at the RPM meter to see if it was running. Thanks again.... subscribed.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

That's awesome to hear.

[@EddieLeeFunn]

I had a leak on the metal heater hose/tube and your video was quite helpful, thanks for posting it!

[@abrahemjaffrey5810]

No more engine light! appreciate you taking the time FordTech

[@zheloz1]

okay thanks to come back I really appreciate your quick response I'm going to go for the upper

[@Realtoroscarjimenez]

Great... no B/S video and easy to follow. I Just got the P0174 CODE on my 02 Windstar. It's been idling rough on and off for the last couple years and this is the first time I get the code. I checked all the hoses. So I guess this job is next. Thanks

[@FiliAinuu]

Nice tip I've been having this problem for a while now. Replaced intake gaskets, coils and plugs still misfire. I'll clean out those EGR holes see if it'll solve it.

[@irynajohnson7083]

Verdict?

[@luismorales_1991]

did u solve the problem

[@edcrespo1722]

Well asshole ? Were all waiting for a response

[@anythinganytimealways]

@@edcrespo1722 assholes like you can fuck off and figure it out yourself

[@wallywest2360]

Thank you very much, following the video made that job fairly easy. Finished it in a few hours and no more lean codes. Just a FYI, my van is a '99 Windstar SEL, 3.8 liter, and the factory gaskets were red. They seemed fine but I replaced them anyway since I had bought the new blue ones already. The bolts however were the black ones and they were obviously bad, the rubber piece was squashed down pretty good. Anyway thanks again, this turned out to be easier than I thought it would be.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I have never seen red but in aftermarket gaskets I have put on, either way the Ford gaskets you put on are a major improvement!

[@mattgarvin79]

I'm working on a 99 Windstar with the 3.8, it idles very rough, and when at an idle at a long stop light it will die or come very close to diving. Scanned for code, and the only code it had was aFirst P1516 for the IMRC bushings. I replaced all of them with the Dorman clips. The new clips didn't retain the linkages very well, and the front rod keeps falling out. It is a sunday, so the dealership is closed, but going to replace with the Ford bushings. In the mean time I also found the front O2 sensor had cut wires, so I replaced that with a new Bosch sensor. Started it up and the idle is still very rough, but there are no codes for a misfire, but it does have a pending code of P0174. I pulled the front three plugs to look at them, they all looked okay, and the gaps were all around 0.055". One plug was a bit loose, and it's wire wasn't on all the way. Fired it up and still rough idle but better, I'm thinking of doing this upper intake gasket job as well as pulling the rear plugs. Do you have any other ideas or things to check? I'm not sure how it is not throwing a misfire code as it runs VERY rough.

[@wajirasheed]

Hi , I have a 2003 for windstar and I have a coolant leak from the front of the engine, below the upper intake manifold and rite behind the fuel rail it's a black gasket. Is there a video on how to replace that as well? I plan on doing it my self. The way you explained everything in detail was amazing. Great video

[@mantikbic7758]

Hopefully you can lend a helping word or too on this subject for me.. had a lean code before jumping into this the typical p0171 and the p0174 but also had a random misfire on cyclinder 3 time for tune-up, plus rack and pinion was also going out so the vehicle sat for almost a 8 months before i could tackle it all at once. So i replaced the rack and pinion, repaired the infamous double flex pipe (found out i need a converter), plugs and wires and only thing left was to tackle the p0171 and p0174 codes. I did alot of research on them and everything lead me to finding your video. I bought the recommended kit by ford and others and followed your video to the tee. Tightened in sequence and to spec by ford guidelines. let the vehicle run multiple times and even drove it a couple miles without alignment just to see how it acted and still feels like there was still a ping in the exhust then.. i got home let it cool down and started it back up and there is a check engine light pull the code and ill be damn if it aint the p0171 code only no others?? so my question to make this lame long story short is do you think i should replace the front valve cover gasket even tho its not required on the 2002 year or pay to have it smoke tested by family friend for decent price? or do i need the pcm reprogrammed ? which route would you take if you encountered this issue? been over the whole thing 3 times plus 3 times and everything is where it should be and no visible evidence of anything wrong checked all injectors no loose connections no loose vaccum lines no cracks in any of them. Maybe im overlooking something or jus need someone elses different perspective might be able to help thanks for reading thanks for your time

[@haggismacbunk]

Some seemingly trivial things to check: Fresh air inlet tube attached (@18:30 in the video) If you didn't disconnect it, but somebody else left it off like at a fast oil change, just saying' in case maybe you didn't even see it. Check the air cleaner band/clamp very carefully...I found once on mine that the band and bumps were not aligned on the bottom and the seal was not right on the bottom, even though it looked aces on top. Could have been me, could have been the oil guy, who knows. From the appearance of it, it looked like someone muscled it shut and even mangled some plastic. I'm betting it was the oil guy. lol While I don't know if this would effect the lean codes coming up, but I think it could be relevant to the missing you still hear, did you check your coil? They get cracks in them at high mileage...mine was cracked in three places! (see my reply to a post below) Did you clean the MAF sensor at tune-up? Be sure it is all put together correctly. If you didn't clean it, try that too. Be sure to use only MAF sensor cleaners. That's all I got.

[@jawnhancock9041]

Thanks man. Found my vacuum leak! Just hope it solves my problem.

[@streetcartom5104]

Hi. I just have run into the problem of misfiring on my Windstar 3 days ago and I really hope that doing the cleaning will take care of it. Thanks Tom.

[@haggismacbunk]

I drove my 2002 Windstar for probably at least five years with the isolator bolt and seal problem (yeah, the Check Engine Light was on) and didn't have a real big problem with missing, except when I really punched it. Then about a year ago when taking on some super big steep hills on a freeway in a new territory, it started missing really bad. Shortly after that, when I got into this repair, I checked the coil, and it was cracked in three places. The plugs were way worn with much larger gaps than spec calls for, and the wires...well, they were at least 11 years old, what else do I need to say about them. I did the cleaning of the EGR ports, two were totally blocked; replaced the coil, plugs and wires, isolator bolts and plenum seals, PCV valve and cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor too, and now that beast runs like a spinning top!! I'd swear it hasn't missed once since I did this repair. It's like a new engine. The point being, since you'll have the plenum cover off, check your coil at least, unless you have recently replaced it. It's pretty easy to get at then. Remember or take notes on how the wires are routed to it, over under etc., take it off and check it out. I'd read that they crack when you get into that 100,000 mile range, like mine. I'd recommend that you might as well check your spark plugs too. I've read that some mechanics get at the rear plugs from underneath, but that wasn't an option for me. It was difficult to get the rear plugs out and in from on top, but doable, so allow for a fair amount of extra time to deal with them. Hope your arms are longer than mine. I did a little tweaking on the spark plug wire loom situation too. I hope it's OK to post the link here for you to see: facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153506267493064&set=a.69191283063.97078.579443063&type=1 Hope it all works for you too.

[@XXGunzNClipzXx]

Awesome video , I needed this because I recently found out I need new port gaskets and isolator bolts because I kept having lean issues first it was the PCV hose then this

[@mackaymarine9854]

Thank you for your videos- some of the best on the web!!!

[@hm3426]

Excellent video. Have been looking for inf. on how to do that job since last night. I just ran into it watched and as I said excellent. I have a 2003 Ford wind star bought new. Right now it has 111k miles Have had very little problems. One main problem, I had was the rear Axel cracked. I used to hear this crackling noise when I was backing into my garage. I always used to check for cracks Axel since I was aware of the problem on these vans. But, failed to see any when it was right on my face. Went to the mechanic, he lift up the van he went straight to the crack. How did I miss it? He wrapped a sheet of metal around and into the Axel inner space welded it no more worries. I thought I put this very important issue here for those who might have the same problem. The cost of the repair, $ 200.00 Cheap, compared to the serious damage it could had cause if I weren't alert to that weird noise.

[@jokool60]

ford has a recall on rear axle, they replaced mine for nothing. and it was a northern van, so rust was real bad

[@billybbob18]

Your video on this job is the best I've seen. Is it much harder to change a head gasket on the windstar?

[@jimstools3937]

I like this video. I have a 2002 ford e-250 with a 4.2 engine. It's basically the same process I have both codes also.

[@crystalshelton627]

yeah man wanted to thank you too for the depth.

[@todde4226]

Made the repair yesterday with great thanks to this indispensable video. One question: Does it matter where I plug the spark plug wires into the coil pack?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Todd E Yes they are marked on the coil pack

[@IFLYBELL]

Great video. I have to do the boss's (my wife) van. We had this done at Pep Boys a few years ago but the van has been throwing the same codes as before. I don't know if they replaced the bolts or not. So here is the loaded question : Should I replace the bolts with Ford bolts or trust Felpro? Thanks again for the video and any advice.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes make sure you do the bolts and gaskets or it will bite you in the end. I like felpro for gaskets but have not seen their isolator bolts. In the end being a dealer tech and having done a ton of these I know that the new style bolts and gaskets from Ford work and are a permanent fix for sure.

[@Alacran_Vlogs]

Well i have my windstar whith 322000. Thousand and still running whith this litlle problem ....i wiil fix it this weekend. I hope so

[@bennyblanko3]

@@Alacran_Vlogs You still have it? Mine is at 310k, but tune up time now. Runs great, but it is time. AC compressor finally starting to go, but 300+k on the compressor, not bad ford. It is on it's 3rd tranny though ... ugg.

[@diggergrandad2654]

Great vid......got and old Windystar..very helpful. Best to you in your future. Go for it you'll do great!

[@noahpete3300]

I did this repair on a 2000 Ford Windstar 3.8l. Everything went smoothly from tear down to reassembly. Your video was easy to follow and tightening order diagrams. The problem I have now is when I try and start it. It sputters as it is starting, then while running it is very rough. I have a small hole in my muffler and it is making a loud popping sound. I revved up the engine a little thinking that the throttle body cleaner residue is causing it. It ran smoothly while at 2000 rpms but went back to rough afterwards. I shut it off, inspected the hoses again and everything is connected. Also the exhaust pipe from the engine to a flex joint midway of the van was glowing hot. The van ran fine before, just had the check engine light on. Now the check engine light reset itself. Any clues to what might be causing this?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Noah Pete You definitely have a cylinder that is misfire hard to tell from afar but yes you left something disconnected or something got damaged during the repair, best to see which cylinder is misfiring and concentrate on that one.

[@Eeropolvasti]

Good Job !! Question: Why you did not take IdleValve out, so clamshell could come easier out/ go in?? Just wondering???? you could clean it too....same time =)

[@jackboltsvolts8986]

Thanks for the tip on the IAC Valve, I will do that.

[@kineticmikemr1612]

Great Video. Thanks for posting. My Windstar is showing Code P0171 and P0174. I had this procedure you show in the video done about one year ago at the shop I normally go to. Now the same codes are back. Could it be the same problem again, only a year later? I am using a very basic code scanner so i dont see too much info on it. Could these codes be related to something else like the Mass Airflow sensor or do you think it could be the intake again? What else can cause these codes? Thanks for your help.

[@userzukie]

I just ran across your video. Great Stuff!! Would you recommend replacing the water by-pass tube at the same?

[@kmac8200]

After many DIY automotive fixes found on KZbin, I have to say this video is definitely one of the most through and well done. Subscribed and Thanks! Do you have to do the lower gaskets as well, or are they not a concern? Any problem signs to look for with the lowers? '03 Windstar, 130,000 miles.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I have never had to do lower intake gaskets on these for lean codes. The lowers all leak oil at some point but vacuum leaks are very uncommon on them, you will get the same symptoms as the upper- Lean codes no driveability concerns.

[@davidrubio2033]

The problem I have is, these codes exactly, however they didn't start until I replaced the gaskets for the whole top end: head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, upper intake gaskets, throttle body gasket, IAC gasket, and the EGR graphite gasket. And the bolts have been replaced with the updated intake bolts. It also has the high rev issue because of these codes as it's finding the air coming in past the MAF sensor and the only place I can detect a leak is by the EGR. So I think it's not tight enough but it seems cranks down pretty good. I'm at a loss.

[@todde4226]

Excellent and thorough video. Do I need to replace the entire bolt or can I just replace the grommets? Thanks!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Todd E The grommets are what you need so if you can find them separate go for it.

[@jasongonzalez7970]

awesome video, very helpful, I have a 2000 windstar that drives okay till I come to a stop.. then when I hit the gas it just revs up and goes nowhere, reverse doesn't work either until I turn the car off and on then everything works again.. till I have to stop.. what could this be? people say trans but why does it work again when I turn off and on?

[@gtrob1]

Thanks, now I know what I need to do, and what I need to do it! I know the service bulletin calls for replacing the valve cover too, I assume that is pretty straight forward, aside from setting the torque?

[@joevignolor4u949]

I did mine over 10 years ago but did not change the valve cover. I've never had any more problems. The real problem is the isolator bolts. The original black ones are a deficient design because the rubber grommets shrink up because of the oil and the new green ones don't. That's what causes the air leak. Also, I never removed the bottom part of the clam shell or changed any of the gaskets either. I just took off the top of the clam shell, replace all the isolator bolts one by one and put it all back together. That was it. The two leak codes went away and never came back and the engine still runs just fine. You will need to get the isolator bolts from Ford. I think there are 6 of them and they are about $8 each.

[@sheniquamar6045]

Thank you for this video, this was very helpful , what would be the price range of getting this fixed, I have a 2002 ford windstar and this is what I need to get done but I really don't want to put a lot more money into it, so if it's not to expensive I will get it done if it is I think of trading it in. Tell what you think. Thank you in advance

[@FordTechMakuloco]

sheniqua mar For lean codes just follow the video and it will run like new again.

[@sheniquamar6045]

Thank you...

[@BUDWlSER]

Great video. I need to do this when it gets a little warmer. Do you have the links for the torque sequences you mentioned in the video? How do you clear the PCM memory? Do you just disconnect the battery for a few minutes?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Sorry about that must have forgot to add them. They are in the description now.

[@jessedogg]

Nice work! I did this but never cleaned the lower intake like you did. I noticed that the little arms that are coming out of the intake manifold runner control module were gone as well. Would this be causing the van to stutter as well? Or maybe I need to take it apart and clean it like you did?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes the IMRC arms and the clogged EGR ports can cause all kinds of problems. See my video here on diagnosing this- Ford F150 4.2L & 3.8L Windstar Hard To Diagnose Misfires

[@omelmendoza8114]

Woow muy buenas explicacion👍ahora si voy a poder haser el trabajo, el mecanico no pudo arreglar mi van y pienso que yo lo puedo haser gracias👍😊y ahorrar muy buen dinero.

[@jessebenjamin4779]

I did this job on my Windstar today. The thing purrs now!

[@kazuma-kh5tx]

good job. are all the techs there as good as you?

[@maximobautista4854]

ok thankyou I will do that. I so appreciate your help. I will tell you what happened.

[@selemonasrat6979]

First of all Great Job thanks for this Video My question is are you sure this small volt can take 89 fit/pound Torque because I broke one even I have it on 60 fit/pound thanks

[@haggismacbunk]

89 INCH-pounds is what he said in the video, not foot-pounds. If you applied 89 foot-pounds, I think that was twelve times too much torque. I haven't worked with torque wrenches much at all, but I think you would be best off using a torque wrench calibrated in inch pounds, meant to be more accurate in the lower torque range needed here, and be certain to follow the tightening sequences so that the seals are uniformly compressed. If you used a typical torque wrench calibrated in foot-pounds, and did the math, you would need to be between 7 and 8 foot-pounds (89 in-lbs = 7.42 ft-lbs). I don't know if dial (clicker) type ft-lb torque wrenches even start that low, and you probably can't set them for that number, but even if you could, the tolerance for error may be magnified on a torque wrench meant to accurate in the much higher foot-pound torque range, which is defeating the purpose of uniform ( and not to be exceeded ) torque all around the seal. You don't want to end up distorting the seal. I have no experience with digital torque wrenches, maybe someone else could pitch in here about them. I figure you just mistook inch-pounds for foot-pounds in the video, and already figured it out, but if not, hope this helped.

[@nicholasvillalobos3544]

How's it goin ford tech👋, i recently purchased a 00 windstar 3.8 and judging by what you diagnosed here, and go into explaining how its only a minor leak that would be just enough for the code, im assuming my windstar is throwing these codes for the same isolator bolts. If the dealer who sold me the vehicle had disconnected the battery, this sort of issue would take a few stops and runs to throw a code again right? And also would this issue most likely cause a slightly rough idle at stops and lights? Other than the two i dont see much any other identifiers to a lean condition, she handles hills just fine here in PA and will cruise around 65-70 on the highway effortlessly.. you're helping hand woupd be greatly appreciated -sincerely Another Grease monkey

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Good video, but how easy is it to get the new isolator bolts in if they are made of a harder type of material? I had trouble with after market "O" rings that were TOO rigid. Can they be soaked in anything to make them more pliable? Thanx for the info, pretty good stuff. Need more vids like this, keep`em comin.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Gary Kovach I would just use oem an be done the isolator bolts are harder but simply push in by hand.

[@925snowman]

Gary Kovach same issue figure it out?

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

925snowman Eventually. Had to go through a bunch that went in fairly easy, so far-so good. Make sure they seat properly or you're just wasting your time.

[@wryguy]

I changed out the gasket and bolts in my 2001 Windstar and the code came back. What should I look at next?

[@pw3543]

I really enjoyed your video. I've got a 1998 ford explorer with new plug wires and coil pack and still getting 304 171 and 174 codes. putting a injector in the number 4 this week. While I am doing this should I good ahead and do the lower intake manifold as well? From everything I've read. sounds like a good idea.

[@bennyblanko3]

Watch real fixes real fast, he does a 96 Windstar, which is the same as a 98. This video is 99 and newer.

[@ScubaCat3]

At this point I'd swap out that coolant crossover tube as well. It'll eventually leak at the 90 degree bend and you'll be going back in all over again. If your lower intake gasket leaks, this is a good tutorial other than you have a few more things to remove to reach it.

[@dustyballsak1313]

Good advice. Pretty much anything that can be done as a preventative measure while the clamshell if off is a good idea. Replacing that elbow is definitely one of them.

[@Dublr81]

helpful video. Did you only do the upper gaskets and it fixed the code problem? The lower ones look more involved and cant find any videos on that install. Wondering if the problem typically the upper gasket and isolator bolts. I was looking at the isolator bolt kit and upper gasket kit vs full kit if not needed, just trying to save time/money.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Dublr81 The uppers is what leaks yes, I link to the kits and new isolators in the video description.

[@michaelsoutherland3023]

I have two 3.0 DOHCs that are kept clean, don't like getting hands dirty lol. Wipe everything with a rag and WD-40, then again with dashboard precipitant on everything rubber and plastic.

[@richardcarnes7708]

Thanks your video saved me a ton of money

[@aaron3442]

this video was very helpful thank you

[@MrRexquando]

I hat all those tricky fit situations. Why does it always come out with no issue but putting it back in you have to push/pry? I've noticed I need my arms about 8" longer working on the back of a lot of V8s how do you handling getting to the back of deep engine bays? I've notice my method of laying on the engine is probably frowned upon at the dealership.

[@mctobbsi]

Great attention to detail. Very good job! Keep up the good work!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!

[@shahbaz84]

Thank You for this great video. I have a 2000 ford windstar and it shakes badly at idle. I have completed this repair, replaced spark plugs, wires, coils, harmonic balancer, cleaned egr and iac, and the grommets for the intake valve flaps. I am at a loss at this point. Can You please help?

[@luismorales_1991]

Sherwin Shahbazian did you figured out

[@luismorales_1991]

@Sherwin Shahbazian did u get it to run good

[@sandracruz8686]

Can you make a part two on changing the gaskets for the spark plugs on the 2003 Ford Windstar I have the same car as this

[@ashtonburgess9569]

What is your opinion on the 2002 Windstar ... How many have you seen have engine failure... And what's the cause

[@sggdopeyz5346]

hey man I have p0171 and po174 error codes on my 2000 ford expedition, it has 199,000 miles. it idles roughly at Red lights when the engine is cold making the rpms go up and down while idling. when I pop the hood I can see rust near the connection in the intake crossover, should I replace the upper intake and gaskets or the crossover piece? what so you think? thank you

[@70sfred1]

Very well explained!

[@maxwebster7572]

I wouldn't do this on a customer's vehicle BUT I used copper silicone on the isolators and let ti dry overnight.. The silicone was free and it turned the light out. I think Ford wanted too much for the isolators and I also wanted to verify the plenum wasn't cracked or warped. I think I saved $90, let the scone dry well.

[@joevignolor4u949]

When I did mine I just took off the upper clamshell and replaced the isolator bolts one by one. I never took off the the lower clamshell at all. That was 9 years ago and the problem went away and it hasn't come back since.

[@FredPena4US]

Bought my used 1996 Windstar LX 3.6 w/115k miles and a nice body - just like the women I've been dating. It ran ok, but my check engine light keeps lit. Gonna buy gaskets, cleaners, oil and hope to have this engine running great.

[@andrewdebruycker6002]

Hey dude you got any tips for doing the bottom gaskets. Idn if the lower manifold is broken off or the gasket is done. I can stock a screw driver tip intk the side by the belt assemvly.

[@masonstorm8096]

No Check engine light but still getting lean codes. About 15MPG right now. All connections good

[@xavierbush8535]

great job now I got one for you i have 03 wind star that has power steering leak and I think bearing knock can you do video on those issue would be much appreciated

[@FordTechMakuloco]

If they ever come in sure I will.

[@ericf914]

I have a 2007 Ford Fusion 3.0 AWD with the same codes P0171 & P0174, idle on startup is slightly rough but once warmed up seems to be fine, also drives fine... Can that be a Vacuum Leak? Where do you suggest I start? Thanks a lot, great videos!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I would start with checking for vacuum leaks yes, I would check the intake with carb spray on the intake seal cold as shown here- Ford Escape 3.0l V6 Engine Vacuum Leak Testing I get to the spraying part eventually.

[@ericf914]

FordTechMakuloco Thank you, I can hear like a air leak coming from close to the engine bay but I can't find it with the spray (I am kind of nervous with the spray too :), the engine runs normally after about 1 minute, so I guess it makes it harder to find.... I cleaned the MAF reset the code, so I will see if it comes back, seems a little smoother after cleaning the MAF, but still hearing air leak noise.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

A lot of times you can hear the air rushing though the intake and it sounds like a vac leak. Have you check all hose connections to the intake including the sir inlet snorkel pcv tube etc? Definite vac leak classic symptoms. Watch my video on pulling the intake. I go through all the connection to the intake and air snorkel so you know each one to check. Ford Fusion 3.0L DOHC Upper Intake Gaskets

[@unknown4mat584]

I just did mine you should have see the rubber on the bottom half they were like melted on the outside and the inside but gasket was still there kinda strange but damn....thx for vid bro I feel I owe you money lol

[@Stay-Frostyyy]

I have both these codes. all hoses look good so I'm assuming it's the gasket and bolts. ordered them and will be doing it over the weekend. went ahead and also cleaned out the IAC and the MAF. the car drives fine only issue is the idle. the motor seems to shake abit and if I rev its fine but when it drops down to idle it surges abit then gets stable but still makes the motor shake slightly almost like a misfire but it isn't because it drives perfect. so is this idle issue common with having only these two codes?

[@timsox2224]

I like your choice of music playing in the background!, I am having missfires on my f150 4.2 l, can I clean those egr holes by just removing the top of the intake? thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes pull the top "clamshell and you will be able to see the ports for cleaning.

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

YUP, me again. I also wanted to ask your opinion on the "WINDSTAR" collection. I have heard so many bad stories about transmission problems. Besides BASIC maintenance, IYO, are these vehicles destine for the boneyard from the design table? I sorta kinda like these turds, and want to keep them ( I've accumulated 3) going as long as possible.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Gary Kovach In general they are very reliable we have seen some beat up high mileage units that keep going. About the only major trans issue we have seen is the stripped convertor issue.

[@brad2548]

Is that a good time to do valve cover gaskets ?

[@gunnr56mpj]

Thanks for the video it, It fixed my windstar.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Michael Paul Johnson Nice!

[@bereketgebregzabiher1446]

Excellent.God bless you man.

[@Twtzcc]

had this done before by the dealer. im doing it this time. one question on the torque. do u go streat to the 89lb or u work up to it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Howard Roper Straight to it it is 89 inch lbs not 89 foot lbs.

[@jessebenjamin4779]

The kit that you list has two other gaskets that you did not show in your video. Which gaskets are those?

[@fockyoumang]

2000 Ford Windstar SE makes a pinging sound, kind of like a light knock. I know it's old and has 106,674mi on the engine. But it feels like it isn't getting full power and almost like it's either not getting the right amount of fuel or it's not burning all the fuel in the cylinder. There are no usual signs of the piston ring problems like blow by and oil smelling like fuel and loss of compression. It feels like somethings clogged and being restricted either from the air intake and intake manifold or a fuel filter clog. I know it had a basic tuneup done but I don't know what was replaced or not. I don't even know if it truly was done. I'm getting those same codes coming up with Torque Pro for Android and a Bluetooth ELM-327

[@FordTechMakuloco]

***** if you are getting the lean codes perform the intake seal replacement as shown in the video and make sure you clean those egr ports I have videos on both. Also while the intake is off it is very easy to do rear plugs I would at least check them.

[@rudyemiliano4218]

Just wanted to know did that fix the problem? Did the codes go away?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Of course it did this is a very common failure on these engines.

[@sqakdaddy]

I had to replace the clamp down bolts on my 2000 Ford windstar. And I had to replace the clip on the wireharness. The clip was BROKING, That go's to the coil. Yes it was a after marcket clip. Now it only starts if i butterfly the gas? NEW PLUGS. WHAT DID I DO WRONG???

[@cbellaire]

Perfect.. I'm using about 1 quart every 1k miles and I get 13 miles a gallon in city and I about shit.. I don't have codes and I've disconnected the pcv and everything runs fine.. . Anyway as it looks oil is leaking out from under the aluminum intake and the head gaskets, I've had to spray it off every month or so.. Do you think this is because the aluminum intake is full of oil? I do believe this should fix the problem.. Thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nope the oil carryover is normal, you need to do lower intake gaskets, just did some today.

[@cbellaire]

thanks man..

[@camillodisalle1335]

Terrific instructions!

[@mandiwolf9085]

Thank you will see what we can do. If it fixes it we will let ya know!!

[@TheDoveNestMansion]

I am in the process of removing my upper clam shell (2001 E250 4.2L)and the last bolt on the passenger side of throttle plate assembly appears to be stripped. It is just spinning and not backing out. 1) how do i get it to come out? 2) does this mean i got o buy new clam shell?

[@ecmjr]

Thanks for saving us some hard earned money!

[@CelesteMcCarthy]

Great video. Wondering if this would help my 2001 Windstar. I think there is a vacuum leak somewhere as it idles very low at stoplights (500-600rpm) it never kills but it gets close. Cold started it the other day and drove without warming it up. VERY rough idle and check engine light came on throwing codes for a cylinder 3 AND 4 misfire when i started down the road. Im not sure where to start. Would replacing the intake gaskets help the misfire codes? Any help on what I should do first would be great!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Absolute first thing to do is fix the misfire. Being cylinders 3 and 4 I would go straight for the coil pack and replace it. Also unplug the vac line from the egr valve and see if the misfire condition improves. See here then get back to me- Ford F150 4.2L & 3.8L Windstar Hard To Diagnose Misfires

[@CelesteMcCarthy]

FordTechMakuloco I wanted to give you an update. The codes cleared for cylinders 3 and 4 on there own. I took the 2001 windstar over xmas filled with people to a holiday party and it was constantly misfiring while driving down the road. im assuming the heavy load made this more evident than just me taking it to work. So i replaced the coil pack on my own. I dont see much difference. Ive only had just me in it so im not sure that the misses are completely gone. The NEW issue is the bogging down. The transmission shifts through the gears smoothly on acceleration but when i get to 35-40 in town and the rpms drop down the bogging starts. it goes away when i hit the gas but lately the bogging sound is accompanied by a "jiggling/change sound". that is making me nervous. I take the freeway to work and when im speeding up the on ramp ive noticed somewhat of the bogging when i get to speed but not nearly as bad when im in town. Ive shut the O/D off when in town and its helped only because the rpms stay at 2000. Again, idle in the driveway and at lights is 750 to 1000 tops! I havent found much of any help online. When i sit parked and give her gas the rpms never get above 3000-3500 and its pretty rough. HELP! thanks in advance.

[@williamfigueroa4964]

you are beast sir, thanx for the video, very helpful.

[@zheloz1]

i have the same code on my 01 ford windstar.. checked all the lines they're good.. figuring must be the manifold gaskets and isolator bolts. RPM's go up and down while idling and sometim wants to shut off when it gets real low! is Nasty said the same thing on his 99Can I just do the upper intake and not the lower.?????

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+larry Mayer I have never seen lowers fail on these to date just uppers. I also have never seen the uppers fail so bad they cause a gross vacuum leak and idle issues.

[@925snowman]

larry Mayer same issue figure it out?

[@LuisCastillo-kz8vd]

Hey, quick question, is it a 3.0 or a 3.8? Thank you!

[@bigdog1476]

4.2