Help! My Car's Window is Stuck! The CAR WIZARD shows how to pinpoint the exact problem!

[@highlypolishedturd7947]

"Calibrated hand"... No, Wizard, that doesn't sound dumb at all. As an amateur backyard mechanic who has broken many things, I firmly believe in the Calibrated Hand.

[@Daemonarch2k6]

I'm wrenching about 30 years, and have learned mechanic from 1988-1991. Then worked as driver but always wrenched my own cars and the ones of my family. I always laugh when i read on the internet : you can't put on this wheels without an torque-wrench, it's verboten! (I'm from germany), and i just think - yeah, keep talkin'! :D

[@jamesgaines6468]

Yea its definitely a thing. Its like the mechanic eye/touch for bolts and what socket/wrench size you need. My buddies always say how the hell can you tell it by just looking? Hell i can’t explain it lol. It just looks like it.

[@edwarner4449]

Just tighten until you feel it get looser, then back it off a quarter turn.

[@chumpchangeoutdoors1919]

I'm an old GM Line Tech of 28 years. I hate this era f body cars. Everything is a pain to work on. I really hated working on them when they were under warranty. The F stands for another connotation amongst us GM mechanics. LOL a little trick to save time I've always held the window motor switch and tapped the area around the window motor to jar it like a starter. That seems to get it moving sometimes and give you the answer that you got a stuck motor. I enjoy your show I'm too crippled up to work now I miss it. Keep the content coming!

[@kiretheyoutuber6535]

My new car is a 1998 Pontiac Firebird and it was a hell of a pain to work but thankfully the window motors work. Would you by any chance know how long the motors will last? Just so that I know when to expect the windows to stop working.

[@RhinoXpress]

I don't know why the engineers have to overly design a simple thing, but they don't care, they're not the ones that have to pull everything apart and fix things when they break. Cars today are too ridiculous to work on yourself unless you're a master mechanic and have all the special computer equipment to work on them, that no bacyard mechanics have.

[@Hooch802]

love how he explains every detail, doesn't talk down just speaks from experience. Its a nice balance of not skipping over the "duh" stuff to new people and also has tips and tricks for experienced people too.

[@juhat.koivisto]

I've wondered for years how to molemmat a doorpanels. I never will use that knowledge , but itse nice to know how something is done. Wizard is a good teacher.

[@houseofno]

GM's two favorite interior materials: plastic and painted cardboard. They just claim it's leather, chrome and wood.

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

Chrysler had "Corinthian Leather".

[@briansweagan9659]

Weight reduction on a budget

[@payday510]

I mean technically cardboard is wood

[@circuitsandcigars1278]

@@obsoleteprofessor2034 I owned a 1975 Chrysler Cordoba with rich Corinthian leather. Loved to take a corner fast and watch the passenger slide 4 feet from on side to another lol

[@_BAD_MERC_]

GM vehicle interiors from the 80-90s made a 10 year old KIA look like a Maybach by quality comparison.

[@joedq]

Just picked up a 95 V 6 CCamaro T Top, neither power window works, this is going to be a big help, Thanks Wiz.

[@Noobgainsforever]

I just love how "real" David is in all of his videos. No over the top "WHATISUP GUUUUYS" bravado, no clickbait. Just a genuine, soft-spoken guy who is a true wizard in his craft. I'm learning a LOT as a consumer and will hopefully get to use this knowledge when I finally get the proper tools to do more than just spark plugs and oil changes😂

[@alexluka8516]

I replaced both window motors in my 98 firebird about a decade ago. I just replaced the motors. Cost me around 40$. You just need to put in a wood block or C clamp to hold the window up so it does not fall out after you remove the motor out of the speaker hole. The only hard part was lining up the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new motor. There are many write ups and videos on the process. A decade later they still work :) Best of luck.

[@Dyatomik]

Drill the three holes where the rivets are located (diagrams easily found on a page like shbox.com) and its extremely easy to replace the motor.

[@briandubbeld5665]

I can't you recall you saying anything dumb! I appreciate you and Mrs .wizard making these videos because you easy to listen and you demonstrate how to do repairs and that . I think AWSOME is you don't talk down to us when are teaching

[@k-town-kitt2637]

I have a 1994 Formula. This is a common issue. When rolling the window up, power keeps going to the motor until it overheats the relay and stops. If you do not want to keep putting motors in, just keep tapping the switch once the window gets close to the top. The headlights are the same way. Thats why the gears break in the headlight housing. Just some more great electrical engineering from GM.

[@J0nnybpful]

Just had my 02 Camaro SS driver window motor replaced. Pretty cool seeing what’s behind that door panel.

[@worldrecord54]

We could do that job in under 20 minutes on the repair line, when i worked in G.M back in the 70's. We just had the tools and rhythm to do that repair. I agree with the feel from your hands. That is a must . Good video, brings back fond memories

[@ikeknight-r7001]

AWESOME, excellent coverage and care! I love my 2000 Firebird, its an underrated Sport Car!

[@davidkeller4841]

Hey Wiz, I'm a mechanic in Ohio and watched your video about what cars to avoid. Man. You are spot on. I couldn't agree more, I was amazed how much we agree on everything! Keep up the good work and I will be watching...David Keller

[@hondanation9375]

Car wizard is the man! I love how he’s always so calm when he works

[@rougeangle1]

4am here and I am watching Wizard trying to sleep. His voice is so soothing. Love from Pakistan 😍

[@ruffturbo9119]

Loki Odinson I’ve also been watchi...zzzzzzzzzzzz

[@careychazz]

Mr. Wizard, I replaced the window motor on a 96 firebird, there are two or three spots on the inner door panel that you drill holes into to access the rivets on the window motor and drill them out. I could see that those holes had already been drilled by the mechanic who replaced the motor previously, so if you look through those holes you will see the screws that attach the replacement motor to the regulator (replacement motors have screws that replace the rivets) Hope this helps !

[@dogsandcars202]

I think the wizard uses these videos to take out his frustration about dealing with customers LOL

[@jum5238]

Are you thinking we should send him a bill for therapy sessions?

[@ricky-sanchez]

@@jum5238buy a mercedes or bmw. You'll need therapy.

[@neozzickmixes3987]

Customer outlets 101

[@hobo1452]

I liked his analogy of the sense of touch that a good technician develops over the years. Besides intuition, It's muscle memory, and it applies to so many skills. I also like his logical progression through the trouble shooting procedure. I trained a lot of technicians during my career in maintenance as a Mail Processing Equipment Technician with the USPS, and one thing I learned early on is that you can't teach common sense, and it is essential for a technician to have if they are going to be a good trouble shooter. It's what keeps you from stumbling around in the dark and taking hours to figure out the problem. When you combine your knowledge with a common sense approach to logically eliminate the list of possible faults that could be causing the problem, you arrive at the answer a lot sooner. That saves your customer money in wasted labor time. Wizard has it, and that's why he is the "go to" guy in his area.

[@bendino9016]

You are a master mechanic, and a master teacher. As a former science teacher this makes content is gold. Thanks Wizard squad.

[@briancenti5423]

same thing happened on my '95 Z28. i made a mistake, and rolled it down once, wow, took me almost an hour to get it to roll up in place. love your channel Wizard.

[@cargyjohn350]

I had a 1994 Trans Am like this when I was in high school in the late 90s, the wondows were a problem even when the car was 5 years old. I cant imagine now. God, the time I spent digging around in those stupid doors. Big heavy glass and underpowered motors.

[@michaelmach9760]

Been there done that. I have the same car. Inside of the door is fiberglass and yes, damages very easily. Changing the motor our is a big pain the ass. Especially by your self. Done it 3 times. Motors went bad. Usually the windows go down slow and stop. You have to wait and do it again. Inch by inch. I wish l knew then about buying the motor and regulator together. And make sure that window fits all the way up to the t top or it'll leak.

[@stephenpickard5178]

The Car Wizard's operating space is just a bit bigger than his brother's. Thank you David, it was a great video and I learned a lot.

[@akoubek3]

The car wizard would make for an AMAZING instructor, I hope new mechanics are shown your videos. Straight up honest, and filled with lots of "little" tips, that may seem small but a majorly important!

[@glassvial]

Called window motor within the first 30 seconds of watching this, GM's of this vintage were notorious for window motors going. Absolutely no surprises here, but always good to watch Wizard do his diag.

[@neozzickmixes3987]

I'm an IT person and don't really know automotive that well, but this is very clear and concise instructions

[@scubasteve31583]

Having had 2 of these cars, I find its always the stupid motor. They fail often and changing it is such a pain...but I didn't watch til the end. We will see if i'm wrong! Good work on the sliding, those 4th gen bird doors are tricky!

[@darkmugetsu6572]

Here is a maintenance tip for these 4th gen Camaro's /firebirds from a previous owner: If both windows stopped working as well as your Radio, or would randomly stop and start working again. The issue is a crack at a soldering spot on the Body Control Module underneath the passenger footwell. Just take it out and re solder it and problem fixed!

[@Tool0GT92]

These videos are so mesmerizing, something about the calm demeanor and the clear instruction.

[@jeremyconder5526]

Nice to see an old fashioned diagnosis and repair video. Thanks

[@opieg7333]

4th Gen window motors... I think I have 3 burnt out ones hanging out in boxes in the garage.. and one new one, because its just a question of when. GM's gift to the world. Love how the camera dimmed when you talked about taking those door panels off. Those things are a PITA and love to crack up top.

[@hacatan24]

That calibrate hand thing you're talking about is very true.... It kind of reminds me when you drive forklift.... The new guys don't know when to stop when they go in... And the professionals already know where to stop because they can feel it....

[@LTJohn]

I own a 94 and 96 firebird and absolutely love them. 🦅 My 96 did have a bad window regulator on the passenger side and I had it replaced and now it's smooth as silk when opening. Thank you for doing these videos. Your channel is awesome!! 😎👍

[@Mark_317]

Thank you for all the videos you post, the experience you provide is priceless. It really is a pleasure to look over the shoulder of a master technician, and I love that with the car wizard there are no half measures.

[@jaypers232]

One time I replaced the entire regulator and mechanism on my Honda Civic passenger side window... it was the driver side window switch...

[@kennethmonson]

I nearly replaced an efan controller on my car last night, before I decided to actually test the fuse instead of just give it a visual inspection... $3.99 sure beats $109!

[@TheZProtocol]

One time I got coolant leaking from behind the engine in my Miata. I thought it was the freeze plug hidden by the transmission. After taking the transmission off, it was a small rubber plug right above it, easily accessible from the top of the engine. At least, I learned how to swap transmissions in 7 hours by myself haha

[@trd8749]

Many cars run all the windows through the master (driver) switch, try disconnecting that switch and see if any of your windows work on thier own...

[@junkiejackflash]

My girlfriend broke a mirror backing out of the garage, and I said we could replace it, and she ordered the mirror for the wrong side of the car lol

[@slckb0y65]

i'm surprised it wasn't your finger that was broken ;)

[@TraceZ28]

These GM window motors almost always fail the same way - the thermal overload protector component inside them fails due to oxidization from age and use. This is a little metal strip that heats up when the motor is over loaded by an obstruction like a arm or a neck to break the circuit as a safety. This is located in the plastic end cap of the motor with the brushes and springs. This end cap can be removed by prying back a couple metal tabs. It is possible to replace just the end cap with one from a new motor instead of replacing the entire motor. On an F-body this does not make sense because gaining this level of access to the motor requires its removal and once you've removed it you might as well replace the entire mechanism just like the Wizard outlined here. But on other cars, like my daughter's 1996 Cavalier the end of the motor is accessible. On cars like hers it is possible to replace just the end cap of the motor without drilling out or replacing any rivets. The trick is to drill a small hole into each brush cavity for a paperclip to slide into to hold the brush and spring back as you install the new end cap. It is also possible to cheat and not replace anything... solder some copper over the thermal overload protector and bypass it. NOT recommended as it is a safety hazard.

[@Leonidae]

So, typical GM electronic issue.

[@junkiejackflash]

Even in the 80s? My 88 Fifth Avenue has one window not working( motor doesn't run at all), and one that's just wonky. It goes down kinda clunky, and it's slow to put back up

[@wino9NINE]

If you know where cap is cut your own access hole in plastic panel F-body

[@flavortested1786]

You are literally working on my sons car in this video. 👍 It’s a pretty solid running ‘95

[@CoastalAutoReactionCAR]

You are 💯 on the feel after years of being a tech! I was trying to explain this to someone yesterday! You nailed it Dave!

[@JayCeeMax]

Quite a large job indeed. This is a nice step-by-step review car wizard. I vlogged the same for the 2008 mkz. There are not a lot of window regulator vlogs on YT for certain cars. Thanks for taking the time and letting Junior Mint take a stab at it.

[@charlesjames1442]

‘93 Probe GT. It had a cable/winch system that worked, but the window lift connector was shattered from a prior collision and not well repaired. I fabricated a replacement, cleaned and re-lubed the cable and rollers and it worked great. It was a few years later that we got broadband internet and I found the procedure for the in-out glass adjustment. Wish I had known when I had it apart the first time.

[@SneakySolidSnake]

i like these diagnosis exercise videos, where you pose us the question and walk through the diagnosis. i think this is the cream of the crop as far as content goes.

[@Daemonarch2k6]

I love the synergy between you and mrs. wizard. Safe the nicest mechanic channel on youtube

[@Joe-wv7pv]

Top notch lesson on how to diag a car! Also running a garage, spot on explanation/cometary on touch and feel! Couldn’t agree more.

[@duncanmcokiner8077]

My favourite retired mechanic is famous around our area for diagnosing things over the phone. He’s saved people I know thousands cause he gets it right first time, every time. Diagnosed my grandads dash not working almost immediately over the phone by figuring out the ground to the power for the trailer lights was bad and didn’t charge a thing

[@FWDSUXARSE]

One thing to note on these particular generation (93-02 firebird and camaro) fbodies. If your radio and both windows do not work, and you've already checked the radio fuse, it's probably your BCM. There are several solder joints that are common for failing in these. Information is online on how to reflow the joints on the bottom of the board (and how to properly remove the module so that you can do so) to attempt to fix it. They do not make replacement Body Control Modules for these cars, so you're either looking at a used module (which may have the same issue) or a rebuilt module. If you're not comfortable repairing your own module, my personal recommendation is to get a quality rebuilt one.

[@inline4c]

Dear Mr. Wizard, your videos are so wholesome and I really enjoy watching them! Thank you!

[@CHuzz7777]

Totally get you on the feel. I’m always like “that’s tight but, little bit more, little bit more, little bit... damn it!!”

[@csebastian71]

The diagnosis theme is awesome. Look forward to some more. You explain it so well and how to use your tools. Bought a couple items on your Amazon page to help me diagnose a couple home jobs. I have a parasitic drain on wife’s car and I have a door actuator with a mind of its own.

[@Toguro-oy3ld]

Love the real hands-on diagnosis by a real pro.

[@yaroze]

The Power probe is a neat tool, I have the PPIV, it's fun to explain to friends and family that its more than a glorified test light, it is a special tool, it makes life easier, especially when you are doing a 2 way radio (ham radio) install and or sound system install, another use is chasing down shorts in circuits, but be mindful, to make sure you know what is supposed to be on the circuit before you hit the button and energize something like an ECU sensor input etc...

[@carnage50x]

A lot of the old $300-1,000 beaters I've pasted hands with. I'd just put a screw through the mechanisms in the up position. Window is permanently up and all I spent was ~1-2 hours of my time (depending on vehicle and difficulty of door disassembly). When I eventually sell them. Cars in that price point it doesn't matter much as long as the window is up and the car is safe to drive. Also that water barrier sheet. Butyl rubber is great for re sealing them. Infact, majority of the manufacturer use it as the sealant. I do a lot of audio work so I have a "rope" of 1/2" butyl rubber on hand and just pinch some off and roll a thin string of it to re seal sections.

[@hyperfocal2002]

Appreciate videos on diagnosing issues. One of the best things you can learn as a shadetree mechanic is how to keep from getting in over your head. Last thing you ever want to do is tow your broken car with a bucket of parts to a mechanic.

[@jcnikoley]

Good tip about the rivets. I’ve had to grind those out before, they were harder than my drill bit, I had do use a Dremel with a grinding wheel. The other part that was a real PITA was the counterbalance coil/snail spring. It really requires a special tool to keep it from unwinding, all I had was vice grips, and if they would’ve come loose, the whole spring would have unraveled with enough force to cause a possible serious injury. I decided it just wasn’t worth it to do that job again in the future, replace the whole assembly as an assembly is much better.

[@andrew.triggs]

Thanks for the blast of videos this week. It makes time go by faster.

[@MarkH10]

Marble sized hail, and the business reputation was built UP rather than torn DOWN. Gotta love it. Step one in the car business, don't allow injury to customer cars.

[@waltp3373]

11:20 If you do break off the plastic hooks, do the baking soda/super glue trick. Glue the hook and then build up around the break with a mixture of baking soda and super glue. It makes for a very strong bond. I've done that several times on different plastics.

[@michaelmeyer1933]

And then there is a Mercedes W202, where the doorpanals themselves are glued to the door on the top part... Thanks for all your advice Wizard and the guidance for smart proceeding on these jobs. You’re creating some awesome content. Keep going ;-)

[@palmermonsen9098]

Thanks for these great videos for free!

[@heincarpenter]

Great structured way of working.

[@carportchronicles1943]

Thanks for a thorough step-by-step on this. I have a bad window in one of my cars, and I've putting off going through it.

[@keithmatthews1673]

when I was in the USA 20 years ago I helped a friend with an 86 Lincon TC. I cut out part of the inner panel (real metal) to allow motor removal and cannibalised the motor with a couple from a scrap yard cleaning the commutator and selecting brushes from my various motors with a little carbon left on them! Happy days! Sadly you can't really cut access holes in customer cars!

[@thebigpicture2032]

Wizard is one of my fav KZbinrs. Let Junior have the fun. 😀 I see they made 4th Gen panels just pop off easily. 2nd and 3rd Gen panels the window has to be down. A real pain if it’s stuck up.

[@MDKN22]

I just kinda think it's funny how I hinted that it was a failed motor... and it was a failed motor... and I'm not exactly a pro like Wizard, but I am not a beginner to this stuff... I do this same thing whenever I encounter an issue with something when I'm taking my car apart. Now, I don't have as many tools as Wizard does, but I test each and every part I can test with the tools I have, and so far I've been able to find my problem! And I'm glad I'm not the only one that learned that a bunch of higher-load features (windows, sunroof, etc) would cause the dome light to dim!

[@timothycoyne5874]

Great video, Car Wizard! I’ll probably never do this diagnosis and repair myself, but your instructions and what to watch out for were excellent.

[@josemanuel5749]

Looks like Christopher (Junior Mint) got finally his own Omega AutoClinic uniform

[@mikenormandy9250]

Came here to say the same thing!

[@Hotlog69]

You know you've made it when you have your own uniform!

[@ZanicL3]

Oh his name is Christopher. wouldn't mind seeing him in a video with the wizard

[@RockyRepairs]

On my C5 corvette they made it easy, the motor and regulator are all together for $90. You pull off the glass from the top, set it down on a blanket, remove 4 screws throw away the old one and install the new one. I did myself in 30 minutes with hand tools, no rivets, just nuts, screws and basic door trim panel screws to pop off.

[@sonnicman]

Yes, this will be a great learning experience for Chris. Did one of these in the 90’s and learned my lesson about sliding panels.

[@DixieLynn]

'92 Olds Achieva SL; drivers window regulator (crank, not power) broke, so I had to lock the window in the upright position until it could get fixed. Girlfriend at the time needed to use the ATM... So, we went thru backwards. The looks were priceless, not to mention she never wanted to borrow my car. It has long since gone to pick-n-pull, due to the Quad4 engine's pistons deciding to play pattycake with the valves. Shame too; it was a fun little thing.

[@ernestcassell3227]

These videos where you diagnose are my second most favorite. Favorite are when you actually grab some tools and do the repairs. Would have liked to see the repair being done. Maybe use fast forward to save time.

[@Digital-Dan]

Other people mess with things. Wizard carefully repairs things. Probably true, but a common theme in repair/restore videos. Amusing.

[@adonisnetworks]

Sorry Dave , I've done lots of these motors mate here in the UK . . you don't need the whole assembly , those x frames only need lubricating up , they are super robust , place G - clamp the glass in place first to the door , drill about 10 mm holes through fiberglass internal skin to the pot rivets ( 3 or four hold the motor ) , drill pot rivets out ....motor will drop to bottom of door , extract through speaker hole , replace new motor with new long thread screw and bolts ( no more pot rivets ) ( comes with most cheap motors anyway ) then locktite the threads from it rattling coming lose over time , reconnect wire loom. Job done .1 hour a side max !! , also it's Not plastic it's fiber glass ) , you could hit it with a hammer its very robust😀😀😀.

[@CarWizard]

adonisnetworks Its faster to replace all of it. Literally only $30 more. You get all new rollers, motor, x frames

[@markusstrobl1067]

Just did this on my 2013 Tesla. In my case the cable had failed so had to replace the complete regulator-motor assembly. Parts weren't too bad: $240 for everything new from Tesla. Only snag I hit was that when a new motor is plugged in the car considers it un-calibrated and it will only work with the door closed until calibrated. I thought I bought a dead motor until I figured that out. Luckily calibrating is easy, just hold the switch down for 15 secs and then up 15 secs and it learns what it needs to learn.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

If I may add a dire warning... In some older cars... like 1960's vintage GM's, there's a huge spring in the door to assist in lifting the window. If you take the arm or motor free it will jump off and smash your hand and or take off your fingers, then it will drop the window on what's left of your hand.... You need to drill a hole in the scissor arms and bolt them together before removing the motor! I didn't know this... and amazingly still have all ten fingers.. the spring missed my hand by a hair's breath. Seriously, do not mess with vintage power windows unless you know what you are doing! Always check for the giant clock spring before taking anything apart in the door.

[@diymakerdan]

F-Bodies use a reversing polarity circuit between the window switch and motor which does not incorporate relays except for the express down feature which why Wizard hears a click depressing the switch down (fully). I would have tested the wiring at the switch first prior to removing the door panel. Reason being, if just the switch was bad, doing that saves time and reduces the risk of damaging the door panel by anyone confused on its proper removal/re-installation. For each window, both motor wires normally rest at ground through the switch itself and one side will change to +12V when switch is pressed one direction and vice versa. If operational tests pass at the switch, then at the motor connection itself, most will automatically assume that the motor has to be the culprit. I can speak from hands-on experience that’s not necessarily the case and by simply re-seating the motor wiring connector a few times that 50% of the time the window started working again and thus remained working. No need to replace the motor when some connector fornication and a dab of dielectric grease might fix what amounted to a bad connection issue. Another quick down and dirty tip for those without any tools or how to diagnose is to open and slam the car door fairly hard a few times. It may be just enough to jiggle things back to working again if the issue was connection related or perhaps something stuck on the regulator mechanism. Same principle as tapping on a non-responsive starter motor to get a car to start cranking over.

[@miketeeveedub5779]

I've replaced so many window regulars for friends and family over the years I went and bought the large pop-rivet tools and 3/8" and 1/4" rivets off Ebay. Paid for itself on the first time using them, as opposed to taking it a mechanic. With KZbin as your guide there's no excuse to not do this yourself.

[@FWDSUXARSE]

I agree. And with these cars window motors, you definitely want to use pop rivets especially. Not nuts and bolts due to the composite material the doors are made out of.

[@eraturbo99999]

With the power windows on these F-bodies, the motors are the most common failure. You only have to remove those rivets and take out the regulator once, to replace the original motor. Usually, the new motor comes with small bolts and nuts to reattach the motor to the regulator assembly. Remember to lock the regulator in place before attempting to remove the motor, as the arm is under heavy spring tension. After the completed regulator assembly is riveted back into place, you take a small hole saw and make access holes for the bolts holding the motor to the regulator. If the motor fails again, you just have to remove those bolts and take out the motor through the speaker port. The window will hold the regulator arm in place so, you won't have to worry about it moving. There are youtube videos that show how to do it. If you get the motors through Autozone, they come with a lifetime replacement warranty. I've used it on my '94 TA and it makes the job so much easier.

[@stevenspenneberg7407]

Wow. I had a 97 Firebird convertible with the same problem. I can remember sitting in the seat and doing all the same things. It’s so wild to see a video so exact to a problem I had.

[@Dreddy72]

the gf had a mid 200s pontiac grand am with a window issue. after getting the door card off, i was greeted by the open and accessible motor. was able to pop it off, and simply pull the window back up, and re seat the motor, which would again take it down but barely upwards a quarter of an inch. was a fairly simple procedure for that one.

[@tasmith1969]

When I did these firebird motors under warranty, I would drill three 1/4 inch holes on the inner door right on top of the rivets, motor comes right off, then bolt up the replacement.

[@anthonyobrien63]

Mr wizard so wise. Yes balance is the key .

[@davidkaminski615]

I recently replaced the rear hatch window motor in my Sequoia. It was a pain getting to it and it was all overhead work, but I got it swapped and now I have a working rear window!

[@mikeh6564]

Great vid, would've loved seeing the replacement process.

[@junkiejackflash]

Thanks Wizard. I have one wonky window that barely works, and one that doesn't do anything. Just the video I needed

[@michaelporter3555]

The dome light is the first thing I always use to determine weather or not the window is stuck or jammed. I've seen windows, especially rear windows that are rarely used, that were just cemented into place with dirt around the weather seal.

[@marcwiseman8590]

Hi Mr and Mrs Carwizard, thanks so much for doing all the videos, they are informative, knowledgeable and fun. Nice one ! Massive fan from England.

[@antonr.4923]

Funny u posted this vid, I’m having trouble with both of my front windows. Driver window only works when it’s warm or hot outside. Won’t go up or down if it’s cold. Sometimes even when hot it’ll only go up halfway then stop and go down a little as if the safety stop was triggered

[@DrakeKillah]

There are a few things that surprised me you didn’t mention, wizard. First off; if you want to figure out quickly how to take off your doorcards without breaking anything; just google «[your make and model] door panel removal» and you’ll always find guides with pictures and tips. Saves you from forgetting a screw, someone else already figured that out and posted a guide for us; use it! Second; to re-apply the plastic-liner; use butyl glue. It’s kinda like bluetac’s big brother, sticky, water resistant, cheap, lasts for years AND it lets you take it on and off if you don’t get the glue too dirty for later. Don’t use packing tape... it won’t hold up, the tape will break after a short time and it will need to be replaced totally if you have to have it off at a later point.

[@ChrisVargasrpht2000chris]

Mrs. Wizard is one smart cookie.

[@kevinoconnor4992]

Hand feel is something you develop over time by doing a job and can't be taught. I'm a pilot and often make small control inputs simply by tensing or relaxing my arm when holding the sidestick. You can't see any movement but the aircraft reacts.

[@Oklawolf]

I never had the issue personally, and I don't know if it's still true, but early 90s Chrysler AC/AY body cars use a cable driven regulator that you can't buy anymore. They bind up and the cable breaks. I saw a few of them driving with the window taped in place. Got rid of my 92 Imperial before it could act up like that on me.

[@daw162]

around 9:00 - in woodworking or carving or other crafts, we call that "craftsman's sense". Things that you can do well without telling someone exactly how many units to the decimal place. Craftsman's sense is hard to convey to someone is new or who isn't very good with subtlety.

[@andrewbezzina87]

a light tap with hammer on the motor itself, can sometimes get it going again. i had that solve the issue on 2 different cars for me. its usually caused by some water coming in contact with the motor due to the weather stripping not being there or not stuck properly.

[@abisismael1343]

Fantastic video ! It was a pleasure to watch your tutorial. Thanks.

[@blaXkgh0st]

I'm starting to like your videos a lot more. Maybe it's because your more comfortable on camera. Whatever the reason, thank you for all these great videos and funny skits! 🤙

[@speedphreax]

Well, there goes your golden shop rule of always having the window down until the car leaves the shop😂. I know, I know, I saw the other window.

[@sleepyhollow783]

It would be interesting to know the Wizard's plan when all windows are not working. 🤔

[@pincombe]

@@sleepyhollow783 leave the door open :-)

[@sleepyhollow783]

@@pincombe I suppose he would then have to disconnect the battery to keep any interior lights from draining the battery down. Was mainly wondering if there was some better alternative in the situation.

[@uperbee]

Always learn something watching your videos, keep these coming. Thank you both.

[@jhuntosgarage]

I bought that Power Probe. Excellent tool. Thanks for sharing.

[@tomrodgers6629]

Yeah, The fourth gens are notorious for window motors I changed out two. Just the motors I am a cheap B*stard and it was not that hard. Good tips for procedure.

[@troyjollimore4100]

Heh... "Another WONDERFUL Wizard video'... Great self-promotion! ;) I bought an old Hyundai Sonata for $500 that the previous owner had traded in for $50. As I was replacing the window assemblies in three of the doors (plus a control switch), I found a stick holding up the driver's window that had 'Hyundai' (with the logo!) written on the side of it in black marker. The previous owner was SO MAD when I told him! Apparently he had spent months at the dealer with them giving him the runaround about the windows never working when the car was newer! LOL... Their mechanic must have been the one that installed the OEM stick!