How to File Chainsaw Chain [square ground]

[@IRONHORSE427RACING]

I said in one of your other "chain videos" how I grew up not knowing they even made round files for saw chain till I was in my teens. I suppose why is because I grew up around Fallers who all used skip tooth square ground chain... Which is what is still the standard for Fallers today. This is a very good, well explained Square Ground Chain Filing tutorial video ! Thanks Phil.

[@badmojamma]

Hard working Washingtonians. If only our nitwits in Olympia had the same ethic. Love this channel.

[@bennyblanko3]

Thanks! I like the videos just how they are - not perfect, a little blurry at times, but down and dirty and straight from a guy (or gal) who knows and cares. I really appreciate this, as opposed to all the other "channel" kind of videos, where there is so much bla bla bla I'm so great bla bla bla ... I always learn something.

[@noegonzalez4050]

Hi thank you for your videos my man. I love it! I'm going to try. God bless you and your family

[@mitchely6871]

awesome video- good to know that you don't have to be so precise with the file that makes it a lot less intimidating.

[@andrewbuscemi7680]

Thanks for the no nonsense video. Coincidentally I was just looking at square files at the hardware store/saw shop earlier today. I didn’t grab one but will next time I’m there. And the tight chain is the way to go. As much as the chain warms up and loosens up while running there’s always a bit of expansion/lengthening . At least that’s what I was taught. And much less chance of bs getting in between the chain and bar. Thanks again and be safe out there.

[@noclass2gun342]

too tight is just as bad as too loose... maybe worse... too tight puts too much force on the crank, and that wipes out bearings... you want it tight, but not banjo tight

[@simd510]

Thank you for posting this video. Im trying to learn how to square grind and am struggling. Will be watching this a few times to get everything you say and look forward to more videos on the subject

[@Mightycaptain]

Was a good explanation. We call those chains stump chains. You cut a stump low here your getting into moss and sand and somewhere everytime is a pebble.

[@timberfallingcouple]

perfect explanation stump chains for a roadside job where they plow or blow snow.

[@bwnco]

North Idaho born n Raised., former choker hooking, knot bumping, Skidder driving Dude! Love seeing a logging channel. Bet you get all kinds of hell cause people do not know we need to thin are forests, just like we thin are carrots n a Garden. God Bless! Now see if i have any good Files left...

[@twowheelsdown2002]

Nice video. I was round filing, then got a grinder. I learned to square file AFTER learning how to grind. But hell, mom said I couldn't even get born without doing shit backasswards.🤣 I recently watched a video where the guy brought the chain down over the bar tip, just like how a chain comes into a Simington grinding wheel. I am going to give that a try. Like most people, one side is easier to file. I never thought about the fact that a Simington wheel is perpendicular, and the tooth comes down over the guide into it like that. I notice you also nick the side plates when hand filing. I feel like that often happens if you are getting the corner in right. As you noted, besides the speed difference, the difference in cleaning up faces is huge! I started falling round filing, and always had trouble cleaning out those hidden dutchmans. After I got the grinder I noticed how effortless it was to just look into the face and skim a little more off to match the face. It's a dramatic difference. And a hidden dutchman can get you in big trouble really quickly! I found out the hard way, as I watched the tree rotate around and knew it was coming over on my saw. It's not fun hanging onto the handle until the tree is leaving the stump, so you can reef the saw just enough to save it. No bueno!

[@dayslife]

i'm no chainsaw guy nor a gun owner, but sure love your content, thanks for sharing.

[@Brian..........]

Best random intro to a video ever. Also, I thought after all these years (not professional years) and all the KZbin's, filing into the tooth was filing the wrong way? I've never seen one filed towards cutter. Why?

[@timberfallingcouple]

I always hear safety being the reason being thrown around, but I personally find it safer to file towards the cutter. I honestly can't tell you why, I round file towards the cutter also.

[@Brian..........]

@@timberfallingcouple I always thought it would dull the tooth if you filed that way. Thanks !

[@timberfallingcouple]

@Brian.......... it sure hasn't for me. Makes nice sharp cutters. Every other tool on earth we sharpen towards the working edge, it just seems intuitive in retrospect, but I did spend years round filing from the inside and slitting my knuckles open when I slipped!

[@twowheelsdown2002]

@@timberfallingcoupleI agree. I was taught to go into the tooth as well, way back in the late 80’s by some old school fallers. It wasn’t until recently watching KZbin videos that I saw people going the other direction and I was wondering if I was taught something funky. Good to see some validation for what I was taught. As you pointed out, every other tool sharpening goes into the edge. And I don’t think I could file square going the other way.

[@wolferogers3047]

I’ve heard that the cutter is case hardened only on the outer side, so you’d be filing starting in hardened metal into soft which dulls the file faster. (You’d think you’re cutting into hardened metal regardless where you start, but that’s the explanation I’ve heard.)

[@SomeGuysSawShop]

I actually am that weirdo you talk about that files up the other way and I do have to be careful. That eagle beak is awesome for competition and stuff where I need 3 cuts but that’s about it. And that first statement is 110% true, also I carry when I’m cutting sometimes because I’ve seen way to many bear and big dangerous game😂 but yeah keeping a few ragged chains is inportant for when your doing crap jobs. The other thing you can do when your having choke issues like that is just pour a bit of gas from your piggies down the carb, great video though man, I’ll definitely make a vid on my technique

[@435Balistic]

I like how you don’t get to fixed on the mistakes. I file the exact same way if the angel is off it’s off it’s still going to cut better than most round file chain even if it’s off a little. I will alway try to fix it on the next sharpen. I wish I had a grinder so I could fix the angle from time to time tho.

[@shadowironbank5469]

Dam dude I am sold and subscribed!!! Thx u!!

[@keparti66]

I've been soaking my beveled files on vinegar, cleans those files pretty good 🤘

[@timberfallingcouple]

That works for things like cleaning threads and cleaning our the grooves, but it does in fact erode and dull the sharp points on the cutting edges of the file. Might last a lot longer if you halt that particular practice. But, if it works for you thats perfect!

[@oldcodger1929]

I don't believe that you need A gun I believe you need an arsenal. 😊

[@jacobm1001]

So do you not need a fire extinguisher because then you'll be inviting fire ? Well i keep several fire extinguishers and a few 5 gallon buckets of water in the shop. And carrry a glock.. because an ar15 isn't so great for concealed carry.

[@simd510]

I am getting a square edge with no beaks but the top of my cutter is changing shape from how it came. Any idea what causes this? Thanks

[@timberfallingcouple]

Yep! it's all in the angles. I can do a demonstration kind of outlining how to achieve different angles with square files and chisel chain

[@simd510]

@@timberfallingcouple that would be super helpful! I've been struggling all day trying to figure it out. One side is looking good while the other side everything looks good except looking from the top of the chain down. That angle is totally messed up. Still cuts though lol. The parts in this video about the beaks was super helpful. Helped me get the corners right and know when I filed to low into the side or to high.

[@timberfallingcouple]

@simd510 well there's two ways to change that angle, I mean, you got to remember you have four different miters there. It's quite a lot to get all tuned at once with an infinite number of angles with the file to try to achieve it

[@noclass2gun342]

Fireball tool did a whole video on back dragging files... and what he found was that it takes thousands of strokes back dragging the file to dull it an appreciable amount, basically the same amount of forward strokes it takes to dull a file

[@timberfallingcouple]

Well, that's good to know. I've had some different experiences myself, but maybe it's been all in my head.

[@noclass2gun342]

@@timberfallingcouple to be fair, that is one mans testing on one brand of file in one type of scenario... So, as they say, your milage may vary... But as far as I'm concerned it means if lightly back dragging saves a couple seconds per cutter, that adds up quickly on a 32" skip tooth chain... That's more time I can spend cutting and less time sharpening. I'm no production timber faller, but I still have "production" goals as a business owner and sharpening doesn't make me money. The saw running and chips flying does.

[@bennyblanko3]

Oh, and I always leave my keys in the ignition, and the car unlocked, in case someone wants to move my old car or truck, or needs it more than me (though times are changing where I live ... everyone moving to my hood). But, I'll keep my 9mm or other pistol, as those do tend to get stolen out of your console, or wherever you keep it, especially if you park at a bar. Someday I'll break the leaving the keys in the car habit. Makes it easier to find the keys though.

[@eddiexoc8430]

Great intro.

[@STMwoodturning]

I'll have to try filing the "opposite" way. I just cut firewood so I have always used round chain. My issue is I always seem to file one side more than the other and then my cuts pull to one side. What am I doing wrong?

[@timberfallingcouple]

well, for starters, filing towards the cutter will help alleviate that because you wont have to apply upward pressure in a "slippery" dangerous direction. give it a try. if you fail, then just file again, square everything up, then rakers, then give everything a kiss to smooth out where the depth gauge tool rounded your corners 👍🏼

[@tintinlavigne5257]

Probably a problem of racker be sure to do your best on filling so each teeth cut well. Then adjust individually the rackers with a progressive depth plate. Don't adjust the rackers on grinder i see it a lot and its a mistake if you touch the teeth with a fille after.

[@emil8786]

I never tried to square file but it didnt look like brainsurgery so i think ill do fine and give it a try after getting a proper file for it, got a box of 24 roundfiles to blow through at the moment 🤣

[@craigprice425]

what is your preferred raker depth?

[@timberfallingcouple]

The .025" that comes on the oregon depth gauge tool seems to work well. I had an old HERR raker tool that was .030" and it was pretty darn nice too

[@craigprice425]

thank you. I really appreciate your response, your knowledge, and the time and effort you put into these videos

[@jeffschroeder9089]

Good stuff

[@danielebersole3884]

Where do you get your files ?

[@timberfallingcouple]

Madsens shop and supply in centralia washington. They will mail them to you

[@danielebersole3884]

Thx👍

[@elevationaxesaw5136]

Some good sources on eBay for Vallorbe and Pferd. Madsens and Bailey’s have them as well.

[@randyballew8795]

I must be doing it wrong, you file front to back of tooth. I file just the opposite, but i also don't run square grind chain yet either. Good video!

[@timberfallingcouple]

give it a whirl filing into the cutter with a round file one time. It might work out for you!

[@Bixby-and-Buckshot]

"Almost everyone who files will have scars on their knuckles..." Ugh. I feel seen.

[@Loggeraaron1990]

There's alot of people that have sticky fingers out there

[@Maniacalchopshop]

I don’t know why but I can’t square file left hand cutters with my right hand worth a crap, my mind won’t let me. But I’m also a righty who was born lefty

[@timberfallingcouple]

I've known a couple guys like you in my life. and a couple of them were cutters and boy they could file a nice chain.

[@Maniacalchopshop]

@@timberfallingcouple I haven’t square filed in a minute but I used to be pretty good at it, best in the bench vise of course. Btw I have 5 scars on my fingers from round filing.

[@pappy3422]

You shortened your rain coat!? You savage

[@timberfallingcouple]

Yeah I get tired of it being bunched up below my wedge belt

[@anglingmailbox3236]

The one thing I'm noticing is that you're a wool glove guy (lately my dealer sold me a pair of leather chain saw gloves). Prior to which I'd always had the most protective, robust block masonry construction gloves on. And I'm probably sold now on leather chainsaw gloves. Why? When I put back on the other 'shock absorption' glove wear now, that are still useful for electrical motorized tools, recip saws etc, I notice with a power saw you're losing some important feedback about what one's chain or saw is doing (which I find useful to feel now via the leather chain glove type). Electric recip saws shouldn't be let anywhere near 'wet', non dried out lumber though, especially any heavy green fresh lumber. And I have extreme doubts about electric power saws too, for this reason. Electric motors are powerful and can get the work done. Sure, but might ruin your hands and fingers in process. A power saw has some weight to it too, while carpentry style plastic bodied electrical tools for dried lumber working are designed to be lighter (to carry around a structure whilst building or demolishing one). I think petrol power saws will be around for a long time, and I'm dubious at best about the lighter electrical power saw.

[@timberfallingcouple]

I wear knit gloves, yes, but they are not wool. they are polyester. Madsens will sell them to you for cheap and they last a long time.

[@anglingmailbox3236]

@@timberfallingcouple There's another tool called an electric (cordless and, or 110 volt corded), that shows up in trucks more frequently called a rotary hammer. Not so much the ones that are large and powerful for core hole driving in walls for mech and elec. The ones with high joule rating that are used driving steel 8 foot ground rods, or literally just breaking concrete roads up. Because this gear is robust, compact, lightweight, high quality and affordable. It shows up now around tree stumps and all kinds of dirty lumber uses. Be really concerned about that, as those powerful electrical tools seem like a neat idea. However, put to lumber uses they're a bad idea (you won't open your hands after a bit). A petrol power saw while dangerous in lots of respects, is proven not to injure folk in that way as much. The reciprocal saw is going to have a lot of guys who're young now, in bad shape long term (one handed recip saw now, smaller version of the heavy two-hander reciprocal model could be even more dangerous). A circular moving cutting action, either tungsten tipped skilsaws, or metal chain type don't transfer nearly as much vibration back to your hands. Circular skilsaws again are dangerous for a whole variety of reasons, but unlike reciprocal action blade ones, won't give you white finger.