How to Install a Shower Valve Kit (For Beginners)

[@andrewlupton2120]

Great video. Everything explained very well. I did this job in a basement shower for the first time after watching a similar video of Jeff's on another shower and everything went fine. Do make sure you give it a day or two and take a close check for leaks at those threaded connections, that's very good advice. I had a very slow leak. One drop formed on the threats (with teflon tape) every three hours! But I just gave it a 1/4 inch wrench turn with the pex still connected and it's fine. I didn't use the black thing to bend the pex to the valve. Just used a 90 degree elbow fitting on each side and it all works fine. I suppose it four more connections (potential leak points) but as Jeff says, once that connection is properly crimped and tested with the guage ... it won't leak. I've made hundreds of pex crimp connections with the same Home Depot pipe and tools Jeff is using here and I've not once had any problem. Final thing: Don't be afraid to try doing stuff like this, if you want to learn and save some money. Even if someone goes a bit wrong, you learn from those mistakes. Now I've got to start on the upstairs bathroom. Basement was my "practice" bathroom 😂😂👌👌🚿

[@subliminal128]

I actually asked this exact question numerous other times to other plumbers on KZbin. “ How do you know how far to set the mixing valve back on the backer board?” You finally answered my question! Thanks man.

[@JerelLorenzo]

There are no plumbers on youtube guy. These are hacks. Try reading the installation instructions...

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers

[@mlt6322]

​@@HomeRenoVisionDIY something I've been asking for awhile now and haven't gotten an honest answer. Are all shower control heads basically the same except for the cartridge installed? My brother replaced my shower controls when the house was my mother's. I had to have it resoldered 6 months after inheriting the house because the feed lines blew out because it was soldered wrong. Anyway, it's been fixed by a real plumber but it has the turn one way temp control with limiter. We hate it and want to go back to the hot- cold turn both ways controls but want to know, is it simply replace the cartridge or does the entire control head need to be replaced?

[@patritchie187]

I love your attention to detail in talking to the novice about things like crimping the rings and why they can trust their installation when they complete the crimp correctly. Great instructor! I've followed your channel for quite a while and you are always my first stop when I am planning some work on my home.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Happy to help! Cheers

[@TheComando156]

This is my type of content. Happy to see a return of the how to, start to finish, explaining details and why.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thank you. Cheers

[@christopheranderson8275]

Just wanted to let you know that I've been watching many of your videos and I really appreciate the details and depth you go into explaining everything. Keep it up and thanks for all your help and knowledge sir!

[@adventuresmadeeasyllc6032]

Thank you SOOOOO much. I don’t know how you do it but every time I start a new project you post a video of exactly what I need. Totally wild. Thank you kind sir

[@RoccoRobinson-j2m]

I’ve been putting this project off now for a couple of weeks and had mixed feelings if I should proceed or not. With this new video, I feel better about completing this arduous project. Thank you Jeff! Going into this project with more confidence. Appreciate YOU!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

You got this

[@tibetisnotchina]

I am back on my DIY Project and you are always there to answer my every why's and how's ..thank you so much Jeff.🤘🙏

[@sherrischneider2794]

The stainless clamps work just fine. Use a calibrated tool to clamp the rings,and there will be no leaks.

[@jhulbe]

@18:53 was great tip. Those things always slide around on me giving me issues. Thanks!

[@Mr.Pop0]

Pipe dope kills any doubts about leaky threads. Also you can find shower valves with the pex connections ready out of the box. Eliminates that step and doubt.

[@lancedoyle5026]

Another reason for pressure testing before closing is I had valve with a pin hole in the casting. Found it BEFORE I closed. It was a pain to take it apart and take it back to HD but not near as bad as tearing the tile off aftwards. Another suggestion is to put 1/4 turn valve on the pipes leading to the mixing valve and an access panel on the wall behind the mixing valve. That way if there is a problem you can leave the water in the house pressurized.

[@andrewlupton2120]

I love the idea of putting in an access panel when you can behind shower valves.

[@jonwright1916]

I have installed these before and the INSTRUCTIONS. Usually do clarify which position is off. 🤣. Cheers Jeff.

[@lizburgess4398]

Jeff, I'm a 70-year-old woman. My aunt convinced me to take out our bathtub/shower combo (my husband in handicapped) 2 years ago. I got it all torn out, but I was insecure, and we been bathing with buckets. The plumbers came and told me Sharkbite and pex is only temporary and wanted $1400 just to install the mixing valve. But after watching this, I feel more confident. I've decided to use GoBoard from Lowes rather than cement board because I can lift them easier. Thank you so much!

[@RexG022]

use pex b connectors and pex b pipes. for transitions from copper to pex use sharkbites. I would recommend using a copper to pex adapter but you will need some experience soldering. I know plumbers tried to scare you to secure the job. Sharkbites are good if you install them correctly.

[@lizburgess4398]

@@RexG022 thanks! (I installed them 2 years ago (Sharkbite shutoffs) and no leaking yet.

[@andrewlupton2120]

@@lizburgess4398 A lot of that "scare" you hear about Sharkbites ... I honestly don't believe. I have the most confidence in PEX and soldered connections and I can do both but I've also used SBs now and then and so long as you take care to install them properly (draw a line to make sure you get the right depth) they are fine.

[@Shad0wC0mpany2]

Thank God for this channel!

[@jamess1787]

May the FSM bless you with his noodle-y appendages.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Happy to help.

[@Shad0wC0mpany2]

Long time follower and subscriber, and I have to say that you should be very proud of yourself for all the motivation and encouragement that you have provided to your audience. I have completed so many projects that my father (God rest his soul) would be very proud of!

[@JSnover107]

I’m glad to see you only used teflon, I’ve seen plumbers use teflon and some kind of blue paste. I feel more confident in my shower valve replacement now

[@nancyhalley79]

Good info. However my challenge is always about strength which if you struggled with it I know I would. It's rarely about the tech and often about the muscle needed.

[@RonaldDCass]

I am amazed at how many people use slip joint pliers & adjustable crescent wrenches backwards. They require very hard grip used "backwards" to prevent slipping on the nut or pipe, whereas when used correctly, they actually tighten the grip on the nut or pipe with pressure on one handle & require less "squeeze" to tighten.

[@RANDYKELSEY-ui4jb]

A quick tip on your Moen shower valve. The shower valve stem doesn’t have a positive stop but if you look at closely you will see that one side has a notch on it. When that notch is down the valve is off. The stem is the brass piece that sticks out that has a screw hole on the end.

[@mikegrimaldi5844]

Great video explains the position of the finish ring. So many times I try to decipher from instructions where that ring needs to land.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Mike

[@cafemolido5459]

Very helpful video, will save for reference. Thank you.

[@NicChap]

Another great and easy to follow DIY. Showers I've done (and yours) are still 100% dry ;-)

[@Betelgeuseification]

No joke, I just did this from your previous videos. Nice to see this all in one!

[@user-sm6lt9mf9t]

Note that the type of pex he shows is pex B. Newer homes have swithched to pex A which uses a cold expander (can buy a manual one for $50-$100, or rent one for less). The pipe is more fexible and more forgiving. If you see white fittings on the end of your existing joints, then you have pex A. Also, in using pex A you won't be fighting with a crimper.

[@feelingtardy]

don't forget that pex a allows for full flow diameter. pex b is restrictive

[@puwazatza]

For people like me who love to own the tools, the five hundred bucks expander is just way over the budget for a plumbing tool. Pro press is the same situation

[@user-sm6lt9mf9t]

@puwazatza A homeowner doing occasional pex work doesn't really need the expensive powered version for working with PEX A. You can buy the manual tool for $100-150 CAD (and probably less in the US), and it works just fine. Did my entire basement bathroom with one of those and didn't have any issues.

[@markbuchbach9639]

My time in kindergarten is telling me there needs to be purple pex for after hot and cold are mixed.

[@LucusAnderson]

best diy content on the internet

[@CaraiCuebiyar]

Would've loved to see this a few months back. 😅 Oh well, I learned my lessons the hard way on some of the nuance parts of a shower/tub install

[@christopheranderson8275]

LMAO yeah ya did that intentionally crimping that showerhead fitting!! I feel for you! So funny 😂🤣😂

[@menachemdavid3535]

Where was this video about a year and a half ago? I had to build a shower, on my own. That depth gauge was a mystery to me. I had to figure out how to install the plumbing on my own. The final product has some flaws but it functions! I did almost all of these steps in the video. I used Pex A instead of Pex B and I didn’t pressure test. If any DIY-er or newbie handyman studies this video and follows it they will have a working shower at the end.

[@ronlovell5374]

Best practice and shown in most instructions from manufacturers; Shower riser from valve body to head should be 3/4 pex or at least minimum 1/2 inch copper pipe, as to not impead flow rate and add excessive pressure to the valve body cartridges shortening the life of the product. 1/2 inch pex fittings are very restrictive and can void product warranties. Same applies to tub spouts. I see this done wrong quite often, and hear many complaints about how long it takes to fill a tub, or when they have the combo and shower is activated, water still continues pouring out from the tub spout.

[@SupperDadder]

Jeff you linked pex A drop ear and 3/4" crimp rings for pex B

[@jasonlambo7896]

Thanks for the 'taller people showerhead' install comment. I hate showers that just spray to nipple height! Code used to give a minimum and they took it as max, saves about two cents in pipe, but ticks off anyone over 5-10

[@GlennoM]

Jeff! Help needed. Love your vids long time, hah, well finally doing a full shower with mortar bed. But i cannot find those 1/2in PVC house water adapters to 1/2in Pex couplers. Tried searching everything. Thanks!

[@Lsidjejaickenw833]

PEX pinch clamps are perfectly fine to use indoors if installed properly. There are some tight spaces that you would never be able to put your crimp ring tool into, and this is where the pinch clamps shine.

[@IGoProEVERYTHING]

I would think the wrong PEX pipe was used with the pinch clamps. I installed 100's of the pinch clamps with PEX B in my house and not a drop.

[@fleabagx34]

He slanders a good pex crimp type due to seeing an incorrect install once while standing on a showerpan he installed incorrectly, which will fail in due time!

[@quartzofcourse]

As the kids would say, skill issue. No problems here with the 100 or so odd pinch clams my plumber used when repiping our basement a few years ago, nor any of the ones I used last year when redoing the kitchen once I realized how easy it was to do myself

[@JerelLorenzo]

Sweat copper or gtfo

[@StepSti]

I'm new to the use of PEX, but I've put in a couple of dozen pinch clamps with zero leaks.

[@user-ed5jh3ff6u]

Nice, I would protect pan

[@catsmeow5566]

I got a Moentrol "shower only" valve for my mother's ADA shower that we are going to put in-- hopefully sometime late this year or early next year. Make sure you check if its for PEX A or PEX B before you buy it-- and don't trust what bin its in. Make sure to carefully read the bag- and check the bag for holes and make sure no one stole stuff out of it. If you do curbside pickup, doublecheck that they gave you the right stuff-- I had a big box store make mistakes when pulling stuff. Do you have any opinions on teflon tape vs teflon pipe dope (sort of a liquid sealer that gets brushed on)? I like to use rectorseal on some stuff, although it can be messy. Drop ear ell with PEX connection is a good idea. Saves on having to get the adapter. Your tip to avoid crossthreading has helped me a LOT. With everything from medicine bottles, food jars, to plumbing fittings. I have arthritis in my hands and wrists so I often get my best friend to tighten stuff for me. Even with two sets of channel lock pliers it can be tough, but using 2 sets of pliers is a good idea. We added shutoffs that will be accessible via an access panel behind a piece of furniture in Mom's room for when we install her new shower. Having shutoffs on each line really helps if you need to cut the water off quickly. Whenever we've had them off for awhile though, I like to aim the pex to a bucket and open the shutoffs to let sediment clear the line before attaching a new fitting/valve. Well water can be pretty nasty at times if you don't have a filtration system. I was lucky when re-doing my shower and putting in a new surround because the plumbing was in a closet behind the shower so we had access from the back. That made things easier because we were able to put the trim in afterward. Picked where we wanted it to go on shower side and drilled through (pilot hole first and then followed up with a hole saw). I used cementboard and a glue-up surround. Never liked tile. LOL. Ah, 84". I was thinking 80. My showerhead had to be mounted lower because we couldn't get it higher on the other side of the wall due to obstructions. But I'm only 5'5" so it worked out for me. It's a little low for my brother who is about 6'3" but when we do his shower we will put the showerhead up higher and use an S-arm to make it even higher. Having different shower arm options helps. S arm can raise it a few inches. I always use a PVC cutter for the PVC and CPVC. Seriously thinking of investing in an electric one if I can find one cheap enough because of arthritis. I don't think I could hold the reciprocating saw with one hand and still cut remotely straight. LOL. I like the sanding straps thingies that you can wrap around the pipe to rub it clean/scuff it up to grab better. It used to be cheaper to run 1/2 PEX through a 3/4" gray conduit elbow to make the bend, but they have gone up in price. I don't know the price of those bender thingies, but I used the conduit elbows to bend my pipes.The saddle looks like its easier to get the pipe in though. With some you have to zip-tie them in to make them stay if they try to pop out. I like the cinch/pinch rings better than crimp rings. Well, we used the 1st kind (pinch) in my house and have been lucky- no leaks. Used it outside too. Never heard of issues with those ones leaking but maybe it was bad installation where they didn't get it over the right part of the fitting? The pinch tools can have an LED that lights up when it is completely closed. I wonder if the crimp ones do the same. yeah, the securing fittings as you go is the best method IMO. That way you won't forget and miss one. The problem with trying to get it to tighten when over your head is probably one of the reasons why they have electric tools that will tighten the rings with a trigger pull/button press-- but the yare expensive. An alternative to doing it over your head is if you temporarily tack the drop ear down lower so you can crimp it while its secured and then move it up higher. Or try to crimp while it is detached completely, but it might move more that way. Working with PEX is so much better than working with copper, PVC, and CPVC. To be on the safe side, all of our showers will have access panels behind the valves so we will be able to check for leaks and change things out if need be.

[@SophiaAphrodite]

To clarify there are actually 3 Pex connector types. Pex-A, which is the expansion kind and B, with B having 2 different rings, the full compressions and the tab compression.

[@robavis4906]

Im goin to he doing this soon. Really like your videos

[@cykes5124]

If at all possible I would remove the CPVC and run PEX-A from its source. All CPVC will degrade and shatter with time, and by the time the homeowner finds out the crawlspace is a lake and the surrounding wood is rotted.

[@MrCherryzz]

Agreed. I just got a house that was abandoned for 8 years. I turned on the water. It seemed fine. A week later, i notice a puddle under the bath tub faucet. I ripped out the wall. Found that the cpvc elbow cracked in the middle. Replaced it with a cpvc but my entire house has galvinized piping so i will need to replace the e tire house and will do so with PEX.

[@fifagoalz904]

Great effort 👌

[@RadinRigo]

Hi mate please explain to me how does the water supply goes to heater and cold water work together please share the diagram.

[@KathleenKint]

I am having trouble finding the slide-on connector for joining the cpvc to pex. How can I locate them. I checked at Home Depot and Lowes, as well as Amazon!

[@BrandonAnderson-d8g]

have 0 issues with the crimp clamp, done over 150 bathrooms in 10 years.

[@KE5ZZO]

21:08 that llok like a moen -- great choice lifetime warranty i have had several cartidges and handles replaced uner that warranty -- enough to convince me to alway buy moen

[@KE5ZZO]

tip ist warranty claim - a few weeks later submit it again so you always have 1 on hand then when hard turn cartridge or broken handle - instant replace then file claim so you have the spare for next time......they mail free about 7 days

[@annaboynton8191]

Jeff, ok maybe a dumb question: the PEX pipe is 1/2" but in the materials list you have 3/4" PEX Barb Copper Crimp rings listed...Is the answer to get a size larger than the pipe? Or...? Thank you so much for this video! As per usual, you gave me the answers I was looking for - and one question apparently...:)

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

our bad. sorry I am going to be going over all the links during my winter break and get everything up to speed. Cheers!

[@bennguyen1313]

With the popularity of cold-plunges, and considering a refrigerator outputs 32-40F (0-4C)... I'd love to remodel a bathroom, such that with a flip of a switch somewhere, ice-water comes out of the shower-head! Any thoughts if this is do-able , or is a shower's water flow too much for on-demand ice-cold?

[@Freshoutthebooth]

What is the name for that 1.89 pipe can’t find it no where

[@denniswilson2690]

Great Video I'm assuming the Blue Pex can handle same amount of hot temperature water as the Red Pex?

[@chriskelvin248]

the color is purely cosmetic. It is nice and neat to have hot and cold color identification though. The important part is the marking for the type of pipe you are using, not the color.

[@puwazatza]

Just a pigment difference. Identical pipes

[@edrisnouri3939]

did he use the right glue at 11:33?

[@plumbbuild6517]

No he didn’t use the right cement he used ABS to PVC transition cement , he should have use the yellow single step CPVC cement , but I don’t think I’ve ever seen him use the correct cement for the job .

[@stevecasey3686]

Incorrect cement for sure. I cant even believe he did that. Definently a face palm moment....

[@scharbon4089]

😂 I was gonna sa! 😂

[@SteveM0732]

Jeff: There are two systems out there for doing PEX. Me: Expansion and compression. Jeff: Pinch clamps and crimp clamps. Me: Why does expansion not get any love?

[@david15136]

Different type of PEX I believe

[@puwazatza]

Because the expand tool is over 500 bucks compared to 40 bucks for a crimp tool

[@SteveM0732]

@@puwazatza Home Depot sells an expansion tool for $139. That's more than $40, but low enough in cost to be a viable option.

[@AudreyHelm-q5o]

What is the blue thing called that you screwed into the shower port before you did the water pressure test?

[@monukrus]

1/2” MNPT Bathroom Shower Test Plug

[@martinisk3979]

The go/no go advice is potentially misleading. Usually the gauge you used with only one opening, has a line half way which is the go/no go line. If it goes all the way it's a no go. If it doesn't even go over the ring, it's a no go. It's a go when it sits about halfway, at the line. Other types of gauges have 2 sides (so 4 openings for 1/2 and 3/4), one that goes all the way for a go. Maybe yours is this type but certainly many are not. I have an older Apollo tool and it has the line in the middle. And whenever I've crimped a ring like you did on drop ear, it always comes out slanted (no go), so get a ladder and be square to it and in control. Just some advice for anyone with a different no go gauge, otherwise the video and advice is great.

[@plumbbuild6517]

While you were buying all new tools you should have bought the right cement for CPVC and that would have been the yellow single step cement , not the ABS to PVC transition cement . DUDE!!!

[@markellwood4132]

Have you seen what plumbers charge? If you can diy it, it saves you a small fortune. It is something I would attempt to do.

[@jcchan08]

That CPVC at the bottom will eventually crack and leak. I would have done pex all the way back to the T or Source

[@lizburgess4398]

We followed the link, but the valve kit says tub and shower. I want to follow your video and finally have a working shower in our house. Shower only valves aren't easy to find.

[@corbind.9395]

Oh yeah let me just show you how to install a new valve in a PERFECT setting where you don't already have an existing one.

[@randygroening3765]

It’s OK to be long, not OK to be short

[@jamess1787]

THANK YOU for showing the RIGHT crimps to use for PEX. Anyone using the pinch clamp system need to stop. Long before i bought my house, i knew that system was garbage. Ive developed 2 minor leaks from these things, thankfully my house is a bungalo with an unfinished basement. 🙏

[@ronlovell5374]

Depends what crimp rings you're talking about! The commercial rated "stainless steel" ones are far superior than those standard copper press rings that he used. Next time your in a store or home center give a standard ring a squeeze with your fingers. Unfortunately the pinch ring, or any other ring for that matter are only as good as the installer.

[@izaacbuckley4920]

👏✨

[@IGoProEVERYTHING]

Why not just make your own shower valve? It costs about the same as a store bought but it can double as a pressure washer.

[@bentleystarkweather9670]

Most valve systems instructions will tell you NOT to use Pex for the shower head supply line, it can cause water dripples when not being charged with water. I use galvanized pipe for that piping.

[@ronlovell5374]

1/2 copper or 3/4 pex, anything else voids the warranties of most manufacturers

[@ZippytheHappyChimp]

Do you keep dirt/sand in the water shut off box for a reason? to make it less attractive to snakes or the like? if not, take a shopvack to it and clean it out, then you never have to make sad noises about being filled with mud.

[@mikegrimaldi5844]

Home Depot even though it’s Moen are lower in quality compared to plumbing supply houses. Advantage of Moen Adler model it’s inexpensive. Not sure if Moen offers lifetime warranty for HD Adler especially when the cartridge goes.

[@Lsidjejaickenw833]

Depends on the model number. If it's a special "only sold at home Depot/Lowe's", then sure, but if it's the same model number, it's the same quality of product regardless of where it's sold. Saying otherwise is just a myth that plumbers like to propagate.

[@ghostf779]

Why ppl use pex over coper....IDK.. I use to want pex... until I did my research. DIY ers... stick with copper.

[@JuddMaltin7]

NGL, I was sure his thumb came off when he used the circular saw like an idiot

[@a.g8517]

watta heck at 10:50 you did? why not to use a PVC scissors instead of saw. Disliked this video.

[@harveyellis6758]

Too funny - @19:30 old man has no chest muscle strength :-)

[@JerelLorenzo]

Pex... You are a joke

[@plumbbuild6517]

While you were buying all new tools you should have bought the right cement for CPVC and that would have been the yellow single step cement , not the ABS to PVC transition cement . DUDE!!!