How To Read XP2 Calibration Test To Find Your Perfect Resin Exposure!

Leaning how to find the perfect exposure for your resin 3D printer can be a bit overwhelming. Thankfully though there are resin calibration prints that make it much easier. However, knowing how to read those calibration tests is extremely important in order to get good results.
here's a breakdown of how to read the XP2 validation Matrix.
#sliceprintroleplay

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Here's a full tutorial for this test, kzbin.info/www/bejne/fX2QanyXZbicmLM

[@blvdes]

insanely helpful. best calibration ever. and it takes no time to print

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Glad you found the info helpful. That's exactly why it's remained one of my favorite calibration tests. 😊

[@bilbob7624]

Thanks. So helpful

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Glad to hear that!

[@silaschitpasong-zimmerman8750]

Dude, you’re awesome! Saved me some time trying to figure out what each calibration part meant on the XP2!

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

You are very welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful. 😊

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

I will also be doing an updated full length video on resin calibration soon so watch for that. 😉

[@Marty-dm3kc]

Great video, very helpful!

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Glad you found it helpful.

[@hughsmoviereviews2418]

Good info!

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Hopefully it helps some people in the community.

[@mrglobul12]

I figure I'd ask another question - been troubleshooting why some of my prints, despite setting the wall thickness to 2-3mm, are printing really thin (my guess 1mm or thinner). Causing a lot of my prints to fail. No issues sticking to the build platform. FYI - I'm using a Creality Halot Mage and Chitubox. I reduced my lift speed significantly in the hopes they don't separate. Exposure setting is 2.5s for 'high precision' resin. Detail level appears to be there, but thickness is perplexing me

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Hmm that's an odd one. I'd copy your settings and run a print using Lychee just to see if you get the same results.

[@uberwildy]

I'm not sure how I'm getting this - but I'm getting underexposed results for the infinity tips, perfect exposure for the bars and slots, and over exposure for the pins and holes... I'm using anycubic ABS-Like Pro 2.0 resin in an anycubic Photon Mono M5S Pro. It just came out. Any chance you could give your best guess as to where to proceed troubleshooting next? Using the RERF file, it has the ideal exposure time set to 1.5 seconds, which doesnt seem right... I'm getting a failed print when I try normal stuff too. I feel like there's something set wrong somewhere but I'm trying everything I can think of and no consistent results.

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Hmm that does sound very odd. On some (most I think) Anycubic printers you can adjust the UV light intensity. I've never used an Anycubic printer so I can't tell you exactly where that setting is. But it should be somewhere in the menu options of your printer if your model has that feature. If you find it then you'll want to check online to see what other people have it set at.

[@CJ-ur3fx]

Important when using this test. Set bottom layers to 4.

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

Agreed, but only if your layer height is 0.05.

[@Mapp0]

@@SlicePrintRoleplay what if you want to print at .3 layers?

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

@@Mapp0 then you could probably use around 6 if needed. You can slice the model with your desired layer height. Then use the slice preview in your slicer to move up and down to the layers. You're looking for the first layer where the individual test objects start to form. Make sure your bottom layers don't reach that layer.

[@kervala]

Apparently, there are 8 bottom layers in the STL file when printed with 0.05mm, after that the real tests begin :) So it's not important if the first layers of the holes are filled (because they are overexposed).

[@mrglobul12]

So whats the different between the printer's exposure time and the slicing software's exposure setting? Do they need to be adjusted to match?

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

The slicing software you use is just a program that tells your printer how to print a model. Think of it like this, The STL/3D file is the raw ingredients. The slicer creates the recipe. And the printer is the chief. So, the exposure time setting in your slicer is what tells the printer how long to expose the models for. Some printers will let you change this value either before you start a print ordering the print. However, the value it starts with comes from your slicer. Let me know if that all makes sense.

[@mrglobul12]

@SlicePrintRoleplay excellent explanation! Sounds like the settings in slicer overwrite the printer, although there's a way to do it through the printer too. Appreciate it greatly!

[@ronsijm]

Hey, when printing this, my print only ended up being 5x5 cm. Yours looks a lot bigger on the video. What are the dimensions someone is supposed to print this in? Or is 5x5 cm correct?

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

5x5 cm is the correct size. It should import into your slicer with at the correct scale.

[@Xercius]

What is the bar for on the right side?

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

It's used to show you how pronounced/visible your layer lines are with your current settings.

[@shaneberry64]

What if everything looks good... But the text in the center of the matrix is half vanished :(

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

I would need to see a picture to give you input. Could you join my Facebook group and post a picture there?

[@solarrage11]

None of my holes have an opening... is that ok?

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

It may be perfectly fine, but you may also not have your settings set up correctly for the test. This video has more info on that. kzbin.infoCXH_m9xJ9YY?feature=share

[@andrewoffermann5929]

my calibration print looks better than yrs but im having issues with my supports not having the item on them the support grip tips dont stick to the main print =(

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

I'd guess that one of two things is going on. 1, your exposure is slightly low. You can try increasing it by 0.25s or 0.5s and see if you get better results. 2, the supports are the issue. You either need more of them or stronger ones.

[@andrewoffermann5929]

@@SlicePrintRoleplay thanks im super new o this only like 4 days in

[@epiccthulu]

support Penetration. This how much of the support is penetrating the model

[@AFV85]

​@andrewoffermann5929 I'm 2 months in now amd still setting the damb things up lol I went and got elgood new 2.0 like abs and it's messed my printers up now all the settings no good for this stuff! It's horrible resin can't get it set atoll!.

[@xander9460]

So, all these vids are foccused on exposure time. BUT THERE'S LIKE #) OTHER RESIN SETTINGS. what do !?

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

The reason it's talked about so much is because exposure is arguably the most important setting. All other settings depend on your bottom and normal exposure times being correct... But the other settings are still important. However, when you select a printer in your slicer it should import settings. Once you calibrate your exposure times, the other settings are normally fine to leave at those default values. The only exception would be Light Off Delay. I It can also be referred to as Rest Time Before Print. If that's too low it can cause some surface defects.

[@MisterkeTube]

Tip: search for the Cones of Calibration and you won't have to make subjective judgements like "is it too small, too big or just right?".

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

To each their own, but I've found the Cones of Calibration isn't as precise as other tests. It's fine for getting you close, but I prefer tests I can dial in more.

[@CJ-ur3fx]

Cones of calibration is only for calibrating for pre supported models.

[@amiga2091]

Settings????

[@ccarter1988]

Honestly saying things like "You dont have to worry about to much" makes me think why bother. This isnt the more complicated calibration method, but also its much harder to read then others. Long story short use these types of things to find your starting point but to many variables means these things are only as good as your ability to know what your printer can do.

[@SlicePrintRoleplay]

I've never had issues reading this test. To my knowledge this specific test has been used by the majority of the community to improve their results. All that being said, calibration is only necessary if you are seeing failures or want to improve your results. If you're happy with the results you're getting from your printer currently then that's all that matters.