How to replace a 100 AMP Load Center

In this video we walk through the process of replacing a 100 AMP 20 Circuit Bryant Load Center with a 100 AMP General Electric 32 Circuit Load Center. Unfortunately my camera ran out of batteries when I started the process of installing the circuits in the new GE panel. I have included pictures of the final product at the end of the video.
In this video I also walk through:
- Disconnecting the electrical meter
- Verifying the power has been disconnected from the Load Center
- Disconnecting the service lines from the Load Center
- Disconnecting all circuits (hot/neutral/ground) from the Load Center
- Removing the old Bryant 20 Circuit 100 AMP Load Center
- Removing and install a new backer board
- Mounting a new GE 32 Circuit 100 AMP Load Center
- Attaching the service lines to the new Load Center
- Working with EMT conduit and fittings
- Grounding the Load Center to a copper water main (please follow your local codes that may require grounding rods)
- Installing your circuits (hot/neutral/ground) into the new Load Center (please note my camera ran out of batteries at this part)
- Installing Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) - pictured at end of video,
- Installing Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) - pictured at end of video
- Installing Whole House Surge Protector (SPDs) - pictured at end of video
Note, before proceeding with any electrical work:
- Always ensure electricity is turned off and disconnected where possible
- Be sure to pull a permit and have your work inspected for your own safety
- Please familiarize yourself with and follow all national and load electrical codes
- Consult with or contract a licensed electrician for any work you are not comfortable with performing yourself
-Be safe and wear the proper clothing, shoes/boots, gloves, safety gear, and use use the properly tools
- If you get to a point where you a stuck, consult with or contract a licensed electrician

[@jorluivil]

I’m in the process of purchasing a home and I will need to upgrade the electrical panel. Your video is very informative, you have and ended up with very clean work.

[@johnmorgan1313]

Great video ,, I need to put in a sub panel do to the fact I'm putting in a mini split A/C and a pool . You make it look easy . I've got a lot to learn

[@charlesb8713]

I'm impressed! That looks really good! Professional job there, for sure! That gives me a lot of useful info. Thanks.

[@streetgainer]

Excellent video

[@miltonnegron65]

Excellent job !!!

[@heroknaderi]

Good job I enjoyed watching your video 😎👍

[@ErikAsquith]

Thanks, I appreciate it! I am glad that you had enjoyed watching the video.

[@adamwise1790]

I’m impressed how neat it is. Most electricians are sloppy and just throw it in looks as good as the panels I do. Only thing is that you can’t use metallic tubing for the ground to the water pipe, a bond bushing would be needed on both ends. I use pvc outside and just staple it inside.

[@ErikAsquith]

Adam Wise I can’t stand when I open a panel and it’s a mess with no labels. When it comes to servicing the panel in the future the added time to make things nice and tidy pays off in the long run. I appreciate the information regarding the ground wire connected to the water main. In my new house the ground wire is just stapled to furring strips that are fastened to the concrete walls.

[@adamwise1790]

Helps too when removing wires later keep up the good work

[@antwionantwion4286]

Try not to use blanket statements like "MOST ELECTRICIANS". 1st there's no way you know ALL electricians to even make this claim 2nd it's disrespectful to electrical professionals. You should apologize. Seriously

[@abaidaramex2818]

Very very nice video I really enjoyed

[@miltonnegron65]

Great job !!!

[@ttfweb1]

Nice video. Thanks.

[@ErikAsquith]

Thank you!

[@thomasmarable6818]

Good job looks nice

[@ronflores7]

Just wondering what those curls are in the panel. ?

[@abaidaramex2818]

Just quit question what size of wire coming from meter box to mail load center??? And conduit size please???

[@bobrub]

Hi Erik, Nice job and explaining most of it for us. I realize this is almost 2 years ago but since I am starting this same 100A to 100A panel switch out project, I could use some help by answering a few questions, if you don't mind. Sounds to me that you have a 2 story house + a basement as I have, is that correct? So I counted 10 total BX/MC type cable circuits going in your old service panel before you demo'd it (4 in the top, 2 on RH side, 4 in the bottom) and all were replaced with NM (romex) type cable. I saw on the LH side of panel that 1 BX cable turned into #14 NM-B romex in a 4 square junction box but wondering about the other 9 BX cables; how far back you went on the original BX runs to convert them over to NB-B (romex)? To the last box in basement before the 1st floor maybe????? Were you able to rip out all the existing BX stuff throughout the 2 upper floors? Or was the house in a DEMO mode before your moving in or what? I can get to all my basement wiring as it's unfinished but 1st and 2nd floors are all finished drywall and I'm sure my BX is stapled to studs every 2 ft. or so. Your explanation will be very appreciated

[@KevinCoop1]

bobrub I do not know if you did your project yet or not but, if you read some of the other comments, he changed all the Bx cables because they were brittle and cracking. If you have Bx or Mc cable and the insulation is still flexible, there would be no need to change it. Respectfully, Kevin

[@davidbowman2068]

pretty awesome details. Was wondering though, is your service meter 100 amps? or is it already 200 amps. Can you have a 200 amp panel with a 100 amp service meter? was curious.

[@JB-vc2wl]

Yes, you can but your main breaker in the panel can't exceed the rating of your service cable. So essentially you could have a 200a panel but your main breaker in that panel would need to match the service entrance and when you upgrade the service cable, you can then utilize the full 200a on the panel. Usually easier to replace both at the same time. If your panel can pull more amps then the service cable it can cause a fire from over current.

[@gamekingkiler]

Good video, can't find anything on GE panels.👍

[@mike7gerald]

Thanks Erik. Are us home owners allowed to pull the meter to disconnect the main power entering the panel?

[@mikemeaney3017]

No you need a licensed electrician to pull a meter, you can face a good fine if you do.

[@Feldspar__]

Is there a reason the wood is painted black?

[@theusconstitution1776]

Great video....very informative......will the old style not .....clamp on neutral work in this box?

[@ErikAsquith]

Pete Lasko unfortunately the GE load centers do not offer plug-on neutral circuit breakers. You would need to go with a Square D QO or Homeline load center that is plug-on neural ready.

[@menglong1969]

Very informative video Eric! I have a 100amp Federal Pacific panel which I plan on replacing as well. After contacting my electric company, they told me my service is 200amps. Should I purchase a 200amp or stick with a 100amp load center? It's a 900sf home with a gas water heater, stove and fridge. Also, I plan on installing a 2 ton central ac unit.

[@muddyriverdogz]

You would want a 200 amp panel if you have 200 amp service.

[@mar1video]

@@muddyriverdogz - I would definitely go with 200 Amp service panel.

[@JK-sx1pg]

Have you pulled meter by yourself or you needs to get city involved in that? I am planning to replace my 100amp panel. Thanks

[@ErikAsquith]

You would need to contact your electric company and ask them to unlock the meter so that it can be removed. You would need to inquire with them what their requirements and processes are for unlocking a meter, and if a licensed electrician is required to submit the request and remove it.

[@JK-sx1pg]

Thank you, we do required to call them to remove it and after inspection they will put it back.

[@JSLEnterprises]

Any specific reason you chose to use an anemic 12/1 for your ground instead of a proper bare 3/7 ?

[@ErikAsquith]

Are you referring to the 8/1 gauge copper wire with white sheathing connecting the grounding bar to the water main copper pipe? I had reused the 8/1 gauge white sheathed wire that the previous electrician had used for the grounding wire on the previous 100 amp load center. Ideally I should have used bare 8/1 gauge wire for grounding the new 100 amp loader center, but I did not have any available at the time I had filmed the installation.

[@honterlin6795]

@@ErikAsquith I guess the question is 1) could you strip the white insulation off? and 2) If a grounding wire has insulation does it have to be green or green/yellow?

[@InconsistentManner]

love how you said Upgraded to gas. you like them energy bills? yes i know LPG or CNG can be cheaper in some parts of the country but damn is it nearly double the cost of electricity here where i am.

[@ErikAsquith]

Chuckles Nuts gas is reasonable here. During the summer months I pay $20 -$30 bucks with all fees and in the dead of winter we are spending $150 - $200. While electricity generation is priced competitively, the fees are sometimes double what I’m actually paying per kilowatt. So yes, I do like the cost of my energy bills after upgrading to gas. And solar is great when I overproduce and it zero out all electrical supplier fees.

[@corbana4743]

Neat job Mine next

[@kundrew1990]

what do you do with those 2 caped black wires

[@ErikAsquith]

If I recall correctly I was told that those 2 wires were for an electric tank water heater so that they could be billed independently from the rest of the house. I believe this was done if you leased your water heater from the electric company, rather than purchase and install one yourself. They were not hooked up when I had removed the electrical meter. So in my case they are just legacy wires running from the electrical meter box to the main load center through some metal conduit, but not connected to anything at either end, which is why I had capped them.

[@johnsmith-sw7ii]

Why did you replace the BX cables?

[@ErikAsquith]

john smith insulation on many of the BX cables were crumbling when I was working with them. Many of the BX cables were not long enough to reach the breakers without using a pigtail. Some of the BX cables were 14awg when they should have been 12awg. And many of the cable runs were a mess and I wanted to neaten everything up while I was going though this process. Thanks for watching.

[@johnsmith-sw7ii]

Appreciate your reply and info. Are you a registered electrician?

[@ErikAsquith]

john smith no, I am not. However, my father is.

[@theusconstitution1776]

Did your dad pull the meter?

[@MARKK300691]

Question... What is the time frame for someone " who is knowledgeable " to replace a electrical service panel ?

[@ErikAsquith]

MARKK300691 are you asking how long it may from start to finish?

[@MARKK300691]

Yes sir....@@ErikAsquith

[@ErikAsquith]

MARKK300691 it took me two days to switch out the load center. However, I had started later in the evening on day one and finished in the afternoon on day two. I also was filming and taking multiple takes, which slowed the whole process. I would say it could take 5 - 8 hours, assuming you don’t run into anything unexpected.

[@chrisheringer905]

I believe you mentioned you don’t have a large electric need in the house.....I’m curious why the upgrade to 12G wire? (I assume it is an upgrade and that 12G wasn’t there before) Also, I assume you ran 12G all throughout each circuit where you are running 20amp breakers?

[@ErikAsquith]

Chris Heringer 12 awg wire is required by local code for all outlets. While 14 awg wire is used for most lighting applications. If you are unsure what you local code is, use 12 awg wire for your outlets. And yes, 12 awg wire requires a 20 amp breaker while 14 awg wire requires a 15 amp breaker.

[@chrisheringer905]

Erik Asquith I understand that. Had a couple questions/clarification, 1) Was there a primary driver that made you increase to 12G/20amp, since you don’t have a large electric need? And 2, just confirming you had used 12G throughout the entire run. I’m 99.9% sure all jurisdictions (and the NEC) wouldn’t allow 14G anywhere on a 20amp, and especially if spliced in with 12G. Admittedly, I’ve not been able to watch the entire video, start to finish (yet). Kids have stuff keeping me occupied this evening. Did you buy your panel new, and if so, what was your total expense for panel and breakers? I’m in a recently renovated, but older house, all new Romex throughout - but they reused the same panel (likely to avoid an inspector needing to come out and look at the panel). So I’m weighing my options. Thanks!

[@ErikAsquith]

I upgraded to 12 awg wire and 20 amp breakers on all outlets because code required me to and it would allow me to safely run several (small) appliances simultaneously on the same circuit without overheating the breaker. However, I did not actually have a 20 amp appliance that required a 20 amp outlet with the little horizontal knots on the vertical prong. So code was the primary driver, but safety and scalability were following close behind. You are correct - you are not allowed to have ANY 12 awg wire on a 15 amp breaker or 14 awg wire on a 20 amp breaker. I purchased my GE 100 amp 32 circuit load center from Home Depot with a 100 amp breaker already installed for around $80. Each 15 and 20 amp breaker cost me $4ish a piece, and I already had a 30 amp double pole breaker for the A/C condenser. The 15 and 20 amp AFCI and GFCI breakers were around $45 - $50 a piece. The whole house surge protector was around $50. So all in you would be around $450 - $500 for materials for my particular setup. If you already have GFCI outlets, then you could just use a standard $4 breaker on that circuit and save $45. Same goes with if you have AFCI outlets, but I doubt you would have any, as they have only come to market in the past few years.

[@everythinghomerepair1747]

The power company knows that you unplugged that meter since it is wireless, did they ever contact you about that?

[@ErikAsquith]

Everything home repair I was never contacted by the power company after unplugging the meter. However, I had contacted the power company to come out and unlock the meter for work to be done on the electrical, so they may have put a note in my account that the meter may be disconnected.

[@gasparma2316]

What did you tell the electric company why you needed the meter unlock? I am trying to replace my amp box too but I was told I need a master electrician to get a permit from my city but I feel that would be too expensive

[@robertbednarz2408]

Might wanna run some equipment grounds. Bx over 6 ft is not a reliable ground

[@theman6123]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤝👏🏽

[@CDP135Z]

I could be wrong, but I don’t think you have “2 phases” of power coming in your house.

[@ErikAsquith]

CDP135Z this is indeed two phase, which consist of two 120 volt power wires and one neutral wire. My AC condenser requires 240 volt and utilizes both phases. How many phase do you believe this is?

[@CDP135Z]

Erik Asquith This is a very confusing subject to most people, myself included. My understanding is that most residential electrical supplies are what is considered “Split Single Phase” more commonly referred to as “Single Phase”. Three Phase Power is 120° out of Phase with one another. Our residential Power is 2 incoming lines of 120v that are 180° out of Phase from one another when measured. In reality, the transformer is producing a single 240v output but the “Neutral” is really the first 120v tap and the other “Hot” line is a second tap from the transformer at 240v. Electrical voltage is the difference between 2 electrical potentials, weather it’s 0-120v or 1,000-1,120v it’ll still show 120v. There is a lot of math/science that goes into this. I’m no Electrical Engineer, so I might not be doing a great job explaining this.

[@CDP135Z]

Erik Asquith This video does a better job explaining it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3a2Ypxon6uqgKc

[@ErikAsquith]

CDP135Z you are correct that this is a split single phase (or just split phase). However, it is not just a single phase, which would just imply one live wire at 120V and one neutral. You could refer to this setup as a single phase three wire (but not to be confused with three phase), which denotes two opposite live wires at 120V and one neutral. When I said two phase I was referring to split phase (two opposite live wires at 180 degrees out of phase), not the two live wires at a 90 degree phase difference (which is what you may have thought I was implying when saying two phase?).

[@3rdJose]

Wow, this guy takes time out to explain this and you think he needs your little video to explain something to him..laughable

[@paulbruneau7379]

So much time spent on the ground wire and its conduit, and zero time on wiring the breakers. Strange!

[@ErikAsquith]

Paul Bruneau sorry about that. Unfortunately my camera had run out of batteries and I had no way to charge it while I was performing the cutover. Thanks for the feedback.

[@paulbruneau7379]

Erik Asquith that makes sense! It’s a pity but I really liked your video anyway. I’m doing my 125A soon