How To Replace A Front Active Control Engine Mount On A 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey

[@robertmahakian5053]

Excecllent guide. Thank you. Just finished this with a friend on my 2005 Odyssey EX-L. Ran into a problem with the left hand bolt on the top aluminum bracket attached to the engine. You pointed it out as the hardest bolt to get to and remove. After not getting it, after several tries, my friend decided to remove the rubber damper attached with two bolts to the subframe immediately to the right of the motor mount. The damper lifted out from the top. Since the motor mount is loose already, jack the engine up as you describe and slide the mount to the right and lift out as described. So other than removing the upper motor mount bolt to the top bracket, the bracket does not need to be loosened or removed. Again great video, best picture and description I have seen on any diy video.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Robert Mahakian thank you for the tips! Glad it all worked out!!

[@Razor_36]

This was an excellent video! You just saved people a ton of money in labor and spread knowledge. Extremely well done sir Thank you! Because of this video I subscribed to your channel. I really like the way you explain the repair without a bunch of useless cursing and antics while doing the repair. There are way too many of those on KZbin. 👍👍

[@johnyoby5176]

Outstanding demonstration by Bryan . The verbal instructions were crystal clear and the video stayed on the operation that in many videos stray away from the procedure. Thank you very much for you help👍👍👍!!!!

[@alwice79]

Excellent video, concise, clear and quality videography

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Al Wice thank you!

[@Blueknight-il9nc]

Thanks for this video. I used this video as a guide while I changed the mount on my 2005 Odyssey. I went with a aftermarket since I have 115,000 miles on my van and don't know how long I'm going to keep it. Only thing I did differently was I took the bottom mounting bracket bolts off from underneath the van Basically I put my car up on ramps and was able to get underneath it with a 14 mm ratchet wrench. I am not a mechanic savvy by any means but this video help tremendously even though it took me pretty much the whole day to do this job. The next job for me is to change the ABS wheel sensor on the right front.Thank you keep up the great work

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Blueknight 1997 glad the video helped. The ABS sensor should be a breeze for you. Thank for watching!

[@oscargonzalez8518]

Hello señor,the video it's very clear , easy to understand nice camera and no anoint music.Very good for us the beginners.God bless you.

[@jayp1013]

I did this Job last weekend on an 2007 odyssey EX-L took a solid 4 hrs. Couple tips, removing the air box and battery gives you more room from the side and only took another 20 minutes. Also needed that room to get the motor mount out, it was such a tight fit that a couple of fins the driver side fan guard broke when removing it. And as another comment mentioned if you remove the counter balance damper next to the motor mount you may be able to slide it out without removing aluminum bracket attached to the engine. When re-installing, leave the 4 bottom bolts loose in order to line up the top bolt that goes into the aluminum bracket.

[@David-yh5po]

Thanks for sharing this video with us.

[@guillermoeduardohernandezb4433]

Thank you very much my friend was looking for a video and believe me it helps me a lot. And more because I just bought a 2005 and did not know how to change the supports thanks

[@HowtoAutomotive]

guillermo hernandez i'm really glad the video helped you out. I have quite a few Honda repair videos on my channel so if you should ever need them. Hondas are really good cars and you really won't have much trouble with them.

[@guillermoeduardohernandezb4433]

How to Automotive thanks friend. If I'm already watching other videos on your channel. I subscribe and I will recommend my work colleagues to your channel.

[@jamesankiewicz3141]

Excellent video amigo!

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you!

[@ThatFarmallGuy]

Great Video and instruction especially when you look at how other people have approached this fix. My biggest problem was with the top left hand base nut but that he removed the coil pack to line up with. The only thing I could line up onto it was with using a 1/4 drive. 3/8" and 1/2" drives would not allow me to get a socket on the nut even with a wobble or universal on the end. It was the hardest nut to put a wrench on for me. Luckily it moved using a 1/4" drive (and lots of soaking in PB Blaster!) Other comment is that you can remove the two bolts from the top aluminum bracket from the BOTTOM a lot easier then from the top. also as noted in other comments if you take out the rubber damper to the right I don't think there is any need to remove the top bracket. Mine was so badly rusted I couldn't get a 12mm socket on it. Overall great video. Took me a solid a solid 4-5 hours (I'm a slow mechanic) but I got it done without removing 5 million other items. Great Job!

[@diversedad7954]

Is there an easy way to tell if these are bad if the engine and cradle are out of the car? I’m replacing the engine in my wife’s 2012 odyssey and never seen mounts like these. If they are bad I’d love to replace them while I’ve got it all out of the car. Also I’ve disabled the active fuel management system on this vehicle so do you think the aftermarket mounts would be a better way to go since I may not be using the adjustable dampening anyway?

[@timvu3095]

A very nice and well done video on getting that pesky Honda Odyssey front motor mount replaced. I think you can get to the 4 bolts of the engine mount from the bottom instead of using the 3 ft long extension from the top. I just worry that these bolts could be stripped with the wobble head. I think someone also has the right idea to remove the rubber damper instead of the motor mount bracket to slide the motor mount out. My Odyssey does not has a motor mount problem yet but I think one day, I will need to do this. The OEM part is expensive, it's like $1000 for the front active motor mount, not counting any labor cost so the dealer probably will jack you for at least $1500.

[@keepingup2952]

I weigh 450 lbs. and I can't see. Should I have somebody else do this work?

[@guzmanyc]

Much appreciated man.

[@littlepepper4370]

What are the torque specs for the bolts?

[@kevedamanyo]

What are the symptoms of this mount when failed?

[@HowtoAutomotive]

kevedamanyo you will feel and hear a thumping noise when your on the gas.

[@Max-ye9xg]

Many viewers I'm sure we're hoping you would tell us why are motor mounts electronically-controlled and are they electric or hydraulic

[@dashiznit89]

Thank you

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you for watching!

[@henrylee2964]

I found an easier way to remove the front engine mount: remove: the battery and the plastic tray; battery bracket; air filter tray; hose slip; remove #6 coil; remove the ground wire. Now you have direct access to the rubber balancer damper and the old engine mount. Don't remove the aluminum mount. You dont need to do this extra work. The rest of the video is spot on..

[@guillermoeduardohernandezb4433]

You could show how to change the gasket of the engine oil of this same truck. Little oil out there but I have no idea how to do it.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

I have a video on a Honda valve adjust and take the valve cover off and show you how to reinstall them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nmG8dol4pMmCd6c

[@chych7]

These instructions do not work for a 2010 EX-L. There are some additional things in the way in the gap that I don't see in the video; I had to remove the radiator hose and fans to get it out (this required a coolant bleed). I could not find a way to do it without it; removed battery tray too.

[@Max-ye9xg]

Engineering failure by Honda a minivan that has sport mode seem stupid how about just polymer motor mounts seems stupid

[@TheCoachDave]

And it's just that easy. Damn. I shouldn't be intimidated, but I am.

[@marco1173]

I don't know what it is with those aftermarket Honda parts that just don't work right, but you're right to stress getting genuine on these repairs.

[@jasonmai2528]

Is it over 500$ just for the part ?

[@howtoguroo2686]

that's weird my 2010 has a small hose going into the bottom , did not have a wire plug

[@MagicHandDrawingandElse]

That's because your are hydraulic engine mounts, I believe they work with your vacuum system controlled by the car computer.

[@guzmanyc]

How much is this specific part?

[@HowtoAutomotive]

guzmanyc around 500$ for the mount

[@guzmanyc]

Thanks man, any specific web side, or place?

[@HowtoAutomotive]

guzmanyc that’s about the going rate for A factory mount. There is a affiliate link in the description for the parts

[@savemeabite5153]

Yeah... OK video I guess, the info you need is definitely there. Might wanna explain to the less experienced people how hard this repair actually is. This video is fantasy. Took me about 5-6 hours to do.

[@kangokidkidd4037]

Dude 500.00 bucks for one mount...so the AutoZone mounts for the FRONT at 149.00 is not GOOD....please tell me..

[@HowtoAutomotive]

KangoKid Kidd my experience with aftermarket mounts has not been a good one. I have installed them and they come back with vibrations and also premature breaking. But I will say they are better than driving around with broken mounts so if that's what you need to do I would recommend installing them.

[@kangokidkidd4037]

How to Automotive thank you...so is this Honda mount for 500.00 a mount with some kind of computer chip in it or what...Autozone has a lifetime warranty as long as you own the car..

[@Brandicakesdesserts]

the honda mounts are controled by the computer. that engine has variable valve timeing and with shut down three cylinders in order to run with better efficiency and the motor mount is made to adjust somehow. the aftermarket mounts just bypass the electrical and trick the computer to think it is working. They will were out faster and if the front weres out the back will go out soon after. they are both active control mounts and are both 500 plus. the aftermarket ones will work but for not as long and not as well.

[@ric21122]

@@BrandicakesdessertsI wonder if the aftermarket ones last longer if the VCM has been disabled. I have a VCM muzzle on mine which stops the cylinder deactivation. It seems logical that if it’s disabled then the aftermarket mounts don’t get the same stress and will last quite a bit longer. Although I have no found anything on line to confirm this.