How to Troubleshoot a Refrigerator Compressor that Doesn't Start

[@gascon861]

Amazing amazing video man! Thank you so much, everything is amazing from the camera angles to the organization of the steps to the way you speak clearly. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@OnyoMeji]

I am a fan. I loved the technical details, the schematics of the compressor, the subtle dry humor (I laughed out loud..."remortgage your house"...lol). My refrigerator is not cooling and the compressor is running, so I'll be watching part 2, to see what you discovered. Thank you for posting this video. You are a treasure.

[@anthonyheak3479]

Very well explained, learned something new about compressors. Thanks!

[@jacoblamotte-dawaghreh5240]

Easily the most informative and clearly explained video I've ever watched! Thank you very much!!

[@chrish7927]

Excellent video. My 16 year old LG fridge stopped getting cold. Everything tested fine but the overload would kick off after 10 seconds of trying to start the compressor. I jumped the compressor directly and it started right up. Waiting to see now if it gets cold.

[@Elimino_P]

Your jumpstart tutorial is gonna get me by until my relay gets here. My freezer full of meat is saved! Thank you sooooo much! 👍

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

You're very welcome

[@saltysweet6108]

Thanks for the great video! It helps me figure out the issue which is a bad inverter control board (mine is a slightly newer model). I just finish replacing the inverter board and the fridge is cooling again!

[@eaenlle]

Great explanations and video. Thanks

[@fasillimerick7394]

We used Fluke multimeters in my shop in the military. I also highly recommend them.

[@garypoplin4599]

7:58 I’ve not seen any exceptions for the compressors in fridges I’ve repaired where the clockwise direction on the terminals goes common, run, start. That is true whether the common terminals is on top or bottom (no ohms measurement necessary). 12:03 - I would have used the terminal crimp on your side cutters instead of the pliers.

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Are you suggesting that I got it backwards? I showed exactly where I placed the leads and the reading I got off the multimeter. And yes the terminal crimp would have been better but most people don't have crimping pliers so I just showed how it can be done using the jaws. It works good enough. Remember, this setup is just for troubleshooting... it's not meant to be permanent.

[@garypoplin4599]

@ No, Sir. You were spot on: in your case common is on bottom. Moving clockwise, run is the top left and start is top right as you measured. I was merely saying that the fusite terminals are always laid out that way. 1. Identify common (top or bottom), move clockwise to the run terminal, 3. Continue clockwise to the start terminal. Excellent refrigeration post. Very clear. Thanks.

[@mathman0101]

Really well explained. Your Jerry rigged power adaptor could be safer simply by attaching a plug onto the romex rather than insert wires into a female end of an extension wire. Clearly the relay has an important over-current role and I would be wary of running the compressor too long without it to avoid damage. But chapeau to you this is nicely done.

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Glad you enjoyed the video. And yes, I would not advise anyone use the jerry-rigged solution as a permanent fix. It's just to use for a few hours for troubleshooting.

[@fasillimerick7394]

What part of Canada you from, eh?

[@HoangHuynh-sq3zz]

Many Thank you

[@Don-zq4ps]

Very well done Very creative guy

[@solomonsolomon327]

Great demonstration. Thanx

[@Gary-ts6dh]

1:09 - I was told that the r134a cans for your car is not the same refrigerant as is used in a refrigeration unit. Was I snookered into buying a 20# drum of refrigerant for my repair?

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

A lot of R134a cans sold in automotive shops have additives in them. In this case, they are different than what you would want to put in your fridge. With that being said, as long as it's just R134a with nothing else in it, it doesn't make a difference whether it's labeled for use in a car or something else. On the bright side, you now likely have enough refrigerant to keep your fridge charged for the rest of your life.

[@robertpaulis439]

Not cooling??? Learned a little trick years back and it may not be your problem but sometimes during the compressor cycle, power shuts off leaving the refrigerant in a vacuum state, possibly an air pocket, which prevents the return of said refrigerant. I, in multiple occasions, had to remove all food contents and turn the fridge upside down and orient in various positions to allow gravity to release the captured refrigerant. This process can take as long as 24 hours but it worked for me multiple times.

[@winstonabrahams5678]

What about the oil in the compressor wount it get in the refrigerant system if you turn it upside down

[@robertpaulis439]

@winstonabrahams5678 there would have to be a correlation or interaction of the oil and the refrigerant from the start and I doubt that that is the case. At any rate, turning the unit upside down for 12 or more hours, has worked a number of times and surprisingly well for me. You're aware that manufacturers stare that these types of products need to be in an upright position for a certain amount of time before use, especially after shipping. Makes one ponder the reasoning! Like alot of other scenarios, sadly, the repair facilities would rather you were not aware of this option.

[@paulleary2312]

Great video I made the a/c connector but the compressor fan not running Your thoughts

[@freemanhsu5896]

Hi, First of all, make sure that your fan is AC not DC. 1. You may connect your AC adaptor directly to the two terminals of the fan to test, or 2. You may disconnect the fan from the housing and then test the continuity of the two terminals using a multimeter. Good luck!

[@topher8634]

PTCR is a very common failure item. You can get a RCO which is relay, capacitor, overload from supply house. Just match compressor horsepower to RCO. I wouldn't run comp without capacitor it causes the run winding to overheat. Also running comp without overload device will not take it off line should it overheat. Good diagnosis and kudos to figuring it out.

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Yes I've used Supco RCOs in the past. They work well. But in this case I was able to find an OEM replacement so I just went with that. I left the capacitor out of the circuit only for testing purposes (it would have been difficult to attach it to the alligator clips). It should definitely be put back in for any permanent repair. Same is true for overcurrent protection.

[@topher8634]

@@TheEscondidoExperiment sounds like you've been here before. Supco is what I use as well. I keep an array of different HP ratings on hand. Super common on the small "can" compressors. Another tip: if you shake the PTCR and it sounds real loose or like something is bouncing around inside, it's bad.

[@freemanhsu5896]

May I have the part number of the relay, as showed at 16:50 ? Thanks!

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

213615000. This relay may not be compatible with your fridge though

[@freemanhsu5896]

⁠@@TheEscondidoExperimentThanks for your information. Really appreciate your two great videos on the troubleshooting of the Thermador refrigerator compressor! Quick update: I just replaced the overload relay, the same part number as yours. Thank you again for this great video, save me a lot time and money running around for solutions.

[@timmartin4115]

I have to say its a great video, however when you connected your AC wire from the extension cord to your gator clips, you put the red clip indicator on the ground wire & your black one on the hot wire so when youre explaining how to connect the clips to the compresssor i noticed it.

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Yes I was using black as hot (I connected it to the common terminal on the compressor) and red as neutral (I connected it to the other side of the start and run windings. It was only connected to the start winding for a second though as I shorted the two windings to jump the compressor).

[@redskinrick6457]

What was your final diagnosis

[@redskinrick6457]

Did you finally fix your unit, and if so, what was the issue?

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Yes if you watch part 2 you will see that after I recharged the system (i.e. added refrigerant) it worked. It's still working today

[@redskinrick6457]

@@TheEscondidoExperiment so was there a leak or was it just by time losing freon?

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

@@redskinrick6457 Clearly there was a leak. I added UV to help find it. However, I haven't checked for it yet since the fridge is still running fine

[@elgaitero1]

2008 GE Profile 22 cu ft unit stopped last week. Replaced start and run capacitors $200...fridge stayed at 65F ..freezer at 10F all day; overnight they went to perfect at 36f and 0f. Then..all week stayed at ~65 and ~10; reset thermostat...no go; suddenly today looking good at 38f and 2f...and stabilizing. WHAT is going on here???

[@fasillimerick7394]

When the wiring diagram was shown, it took me a minute to realize there was a very small cursor tracing the circuit path. It was hard for my old eyes to see it. Could you add a larger, more obvious for us old heads please?

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Yes in later videos I corrected that. When you're editing the video on a large screen it looks fine, but on a 5" smartphone screen it is too small

[@fasillimerick7394]

Thank you. Again, I wasn't trying to criticise the content, which was quite good. Too many videos seem to be "let's find out what this thing does!" , but you clearly know what you're doing. Thank you.

[@tomr7241]

9:00 Never test across painted surface, better use a copper pipe

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

Off camera I tested continuity between a few points on the body of the compressor. It read continuous. Using the copper pipe as reference is fine too

[@dannybockius2255]

I think your pliers had a crimper on them

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

You must be on bare metal and confirm you have a good spot by ohming ground to ground. Touching the top that is painted will give you false readings.

[@TheEscondidoExperiment]

I tested it before filming. When i put two probes anywhere on the body of the compressor it showed continuity. But yes, bare metal in general will give a more reliable reading.