How To Use Generic Coils To Restore Spark On Most Old Outboards

In this video, we take a look at the best way I have found to get back spark on older outboards that may be suffering from a bad coil without worrying about sourcing rare and expensive antique outboard parts.

[@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE]

Great work Bennett! 😁 It's nice of you to share your experience to help others that have the same problem finding a coil. Hope all is well with you my friend! Take care 🙂👍

[@RustRehab]

Thanks Zane, all is well in our little world. I saw that you have another video out, I'll have to take a look at that tonight!

[@Showmethefish]

I'm not to old to learn something new...thanks

[@allensnook7760]

Pretty dam slick you ole dog,beating the corporations at there own game i applaude you n thanks fer showing us also!!!!snooky pa

[@reneortiz2033]

Great information an example thanks

[@andrzejbarankiewicz4690]

in this style Ive repaired my old Volvo penta 90 (9HP) the coils from Johnson (price on Ali express 5$ + 3 $ delivery)

[@RustRehab]

I've never tried ordering from Aliexpress, but I could give it a shot sometime.

[@andrzejbarankiewicz4690]

@@RustRehab Let try it.... good prices fast delivery (to Poland) and many outboard parts.... BR from Warsaw

[@hanscuda]

I need to replace the coils in an old Martin outboard. I looked at them on Ali express about a year ago but can't find the ones at that price any more. they use to sell just the coil part without the laminates. Does someone have a link to these?

[@davidwillis5016]

Thanks

[@MooneyMarineLLC]

Hello! Thank you for sharing this video, it was very informative. I'm currently restoring my first 1947 Sears & Roebuck 5.5hp Elgin outboard. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind sharing the link to where you purchased the coil replacement? Also what would you recommend for spark plug replacement, anything specific?

[@RustRehab]

Glad you got some use from it! I believe all these older elgins use J11C Champion plugs, but other companies make equivalent plugs. I'll add the link to the amazon page where I bought the coils, but it looks like they have increased in price a bit. There are lots of identical ones on there luckily. www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PJR72PK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@michiganmagneto]

Hi there. I recently acquired a single cylinder Sea King outboard motor 7 horsepower. Based on the numbers and what I can find I think it's a 7.5 hp. Anyway no spark. Your video helped me when it comes to changing the coil. Long story short I ordered a coil, spark plug wire, points and condenser. Cleaned everything all off. Installed everything and set the gap for the points at .020". New spark plug gapped at .030". Put it all back together and pulled it a few times and still no spark. Now the original coil had a long wire and the condenser wire attaching to the point then there was another shorter wire that came off of the coil that if I remember correctly went to ground. For some reason I still have no spark and I didn't happen to have a multimeter at the time. So I could not do an individual component test. The engine on the outboard was manufactured by Clinton. Could my new parts be faulty or did I hookup something wrong?

[@RustRehab]

It's always a possibility that new parts are bad out of the box, a cheap multimeter really helps verify that. Did you get any photos of the ignition system before you took it apart? Having those photos always helps me to get things back in the proper space. If you didn't, you *might* be able to find a photo of it online. As for the wire you mentioned, I'm not sure about its placement. I just took a look at my old elgin outboard, and it has one wire heading from the coil to the condenser, and one more heading to a ground on the coil. It's possible the spark plug wire is bad as well, I've had that happen to me twice this year on outboard restorations. But again though, you'll need a multimeter to test that. Good luck! Let me know how it works out for you

[@michiganmagneto]

@@RustRehab both wires coming off of the coil are black and the actual spark plug wire was already attached to the coil so I didn't pull those two apart. I will mess with it some more when I get some time. I'm a truck driver and I don't have a lot of spare time when I am home. But I will be picking up a cheap multi-meter probably today. The motor does have a couple of other issues that I do need to fix. One is somebody installed the wrong size gasket on top of the float Bowl and feel and just pouring out when I squeeze the primer bulb. There's two screws missing from the lower unit that I got to replace and the skeg is bent. But I'm not going to bother fixing anything until I know for certain I have good part again. Thanks for getting back with me. I appreciate you.

[@michiganmagneto]

@@RustRehab On a side note regarding the quality of brand new parts.....I did order all of them from amazon. Lesson learned there.

[@ct1762]

@@michiganmagneto should be ground to the contact body or the coil mount, positive to the points. Now it is possible your coil is negative polarity, or the old one was positive but either way just swap wires, put flywheel on without the nut and whip her over until she sparks by hand. now another trick i do is try to find the old ATOM or sierra magnatune transistor chips so you take the points and condenser out of the equation. plus it gives you a hotter spark sooner, and double-fires at the top of the spark for better combustion. and idles like a sewing machine as the old ones usually have sloppy mag plates that throw the points out. you can try the chinese ignition modules if you cant get the atoms on amazon.

[@michiganmagneto]

@@ct1762 I picked up another coil from an outboard parts dealer up in the U.P. Installed it, spun it by hand, got my spark now. So I took apart the carb, cleaned it all out, assembled & it started. Couldn't keep it running. Squeezed primer bulb, it fired up and ran long enough to use up fuel in carb, then died out again. Then the colder weather came in and I ran out of time, so I put it away for a while. Then stumbled across another motor, same one. Has spark already and not missing any parts. I'll get them both going. I will look into that electronic ignition kit you mentioned. Definitely something I'd want.

[@quaza2796]

Would it be safe to clean the laminates with wool for rust ?

[@RustRehab]

I would say you're probably okay to do that, as long as you're not separating the layers of course.

[@rainerneumeister5239]

Hi. Coils are not available for 1991 3.3 HP Johnson outboard year 1991. Will a coil work from other years. ?

[@RustRehab]

@@rainerneumeister5239 it may, if it has a similar shape and numbers. It looks like it has a very different shape than the older styles I usually work with. I just did a quick check and I was suprised to see that they're so hard to find for that motor/year. Might have to turn to ebay if you can't find a suitable match on a new one

[@kudalauthebat]

good content.i hav trouble with suzuki dt30 hp that have weak spark.i tested the power pack to another engine and its running good.is it possible that the primary coil the cause for the weak spart.? i cannot test to my another engine because i sell it already.sory for my bad english.

[@RustRehab]

I'm not very familiar with Suzuki outboards, but a weak coil can absoutly cause a weak spark. It's not unusual for a coil to weaken before it dies. You can either use a multi meter to check to see how close to factory spec it is, or you can just replace it and see. Good luck!

[@ct1762]

did you check the exciter coils? should have 2. using the factory service manual will work you through the proper steps. easy. you will need a digital meter and cheap DVA adapter you can get on ebay for $20.

[@MikeSmith-hg6hs]

When taking the new coil off the new laminate do you have to cut the epoxy or just start pulling?

[@RustRehab]

Are you referring to the epoxy holding the coil to the laminate? If so, I just pulled it off. I did clean out the inside though before I put it on the new laminate.

[@thomasreinker3402]

Hey great work! Is that a McCullough motor?

[@RustRehab]

I *believe* so, but my memory on it now is a bit fuzzy. I might just be thinking of the elgin

[@ALVintageOutboards]

​@@RustRehabit is! I can tell by the transom clamp handles and the extra soark plug threaded holder behind the head area😁. I am addicted to the Scott Atwater and McCulloch made outboard motors! Lol 😆

[@ALVintageOutboards]

It is either a Scott Atwater or McCulloch. McCulloch bought Scott Atwater out in about 1955 😀

[@OldSkoolF]

I use an old penny in front of the puller so it doesn't mark up the laminate.

[@RustRehab]

That's a good idea

[@Bobbybbops]

Is it necessary to use a coil spacer tool to make sure coils are seated properly?

[@judenotdead2272]

When’s another vid of the international restoration coming

[@RustRehab]

Not too far out hopefully. Would you rather see more frequent but less interesting/progress on the international, or less frequent but more interesting/progress per video?

[@judenotdead2272]

Any video that’s even 10 min worth of progress is worth watching for sure

[@judenotdead2272]

Also your content is great, keep up the good work!

[@ALVintageOutboards]

Thats a Scott Atwater/McCulloch 😁

[@cptexasleather230]

I tried to do this same thing and the new coil did not fit on the old laminate. The old laminate is 1/2” rather that 7/16”. Do you happen to know where to find a 1/2” one?

[@RustRehab]

I'm not 100% sure on the larger laminate size. Your best bet might be to search on online forms to find a motor with the proper laminate size, then order the coils for that motor instead.

[@ALVintageOutboards]

Are you sure its not 5/8"? Thats another popular size. If it is, Google Dennis Carpenter restoration parts in North Carolina. I used his Cushman Scooter coils for a Scott Atwater 16 hp because it had 5/8" laminates