Hummer H2 2005 - Drivers Door Lock Not Working

This video investigates repairing a faulty Drivers Door Power Window Switch (DDM Drivers Door Module) where the door actuator (lock) fails to operate.
An oscilloscope reveals the voltages across the actuator are complex waveforms. The DDM pulses the Lock C2-Pin 21 constantly, however the UnLock (Pin 20) shows a fairly clean 400ms wide 12V pulse with respect to ground.
Also it's not possible to measure the the actuator coil's resistance (reads O/C) indicating the Door Lock Actuator includes active technology (may be like the Power Mirror Motor which also includes a PCB)

[@trevishornsby7385]

You an your videos are a blessing,helped me out with my Hummer an ton.Thank you👍👍👍👍👍

[@hummerfixes]

Thank you, so much, just glad to be of help 👍

[@trevishornsby7385]

@@hummerfixes one more thing,have you ever had a problem with your 4wd service light come on?mines came on an my 4wHi light was red?now I'm worried to even drive my Hummer.left it in my yard for a month now.Thank you for any info that you have

[@hummerfixes]

​@@trevishornsby7385 Got mine 7 years ago, one of the 1st messages I ever saw was "Service 4WD" you can imagine my thoughts. Someone told me the H2 can throw this message if the Transfer Case doesn't get used ver often, they said the trick was to cycle through all the drive mode combinations periodically. Please watch this video, it explains it very well kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3zGd2ubnKhgnrc I do this every few months on a short straight stretch of road (a dirt track is ideal) Caution, you're not supposed to drive on pavement, especially round bends, in Rear-Axle-Lock (it's in the owners manual) Let me know if cycling fixes it, it's always good to keep the fluid changed (nice and pink) Also the manual also says the message can be cleared quote "Pressing any of the four DIC buttons or the trip odometer reset stem will clear the message from the DIC display"

[@trevishornsby7385]

@@hummerfixes thank you my friend,I got mines a year ago.it looks like yours black on black 2005,I've only drove it 2000 miles since last year so yeah that is probably vwhat I'm going thru.thank you again my brother you are a blessing👍👍👍👍👍

[@lifestylecustoms9354]

I’m having problems with my 2005 H2. I’ve replaced the right rear door actuator, replaced the left rear door window switch, but still have right rear door ajar message on dash and both rear door windows won’t go up or down, from with the rear door switches or from the drivers door controls

[@hummerfixes]

Thank you so much for your comment. The "R/R door ajar" and "Rear window up/down" conditions are seemingly unconnected as far as the wiring diagram goes. So for door ajar issue, it may be worth checking if its real or not. Located inside the R/H "B" Pillar is connector C390 Pin H a Light Green + Black wire, this connects (eventually) to BCM connector C6-A2, I would be tempted to put a volt-meter on this connector pin and see if it changes state when the door closes/opens, I presume door-closed = 0V, open=+12V As for the rear windows, this is strange because the LH & RH sides are pretty much independant with the fuses, power, grounds, circuit breakers, relays and controls all seperate. Essentially the DDM communicates with the BCM and the BCM controls the left and right window relays. It's as if the DDM lockout switch is active, but then the front right passenger window should be inactive too (I think) Slightly worrying it could be BCM related as all these function relate to a single BCM Connector C6 (possibly not plugged in correctly?) but I'd check the RR AJAR switch first. Could be dry joints on the BCM connector (hopefully not) Best I can do with the info at hand...

[@lifestylecustoms9354]

@@hummerfixes thank you for answering so quickly! It’s so nice to speak to someone who can speak the same “language”, as far as the “right rear ajar” message, I’d already traced the complete wire harness going back to the right rear door, disconnecting at the “B” pillar plug and also the C6-A2 purple connector at the BCM using the meter checking for a ground fault from either a break or chaffed spot in the “light green + black wire right rear door ajar wire with no luck. The only thing I did notice was that my shop installed Viper alarm door trigger switch wires tapped directly into the C6-A2 purple plug at the BCM and with the wire harness disconnected at the BCM and at the other end at the right rear door actuator showed that there was a ground issue somewhere, so I’d disconnected the alarm trigger wire and the issue went away, BUT the trucks dash still says “right rear door ajar”. And like you’d mentioned, the rear door window up and down switch wires also go into the C6-A2 plug at the BCM. I’ve removed the purple plug at the BCM multiple times for inspection, wiggled it, tried everything. Right now the alarm is disconnected until I can fix the BCM from thinking the doors ajar because it continues to trigger the alarm if connected. If it is a BCM problem, can I buy a new virgin BCM from the Chevy dealership and have it programmed? I thank you for your communication and help

[@hummerfixes]

​@@lifestylecustoms9354 You've done some very impressive investigations thus far. Before going down the BCM replacement route, there are a couple of things I'd try (someone last year fitted a new door actuator which turned out to be faulty) The following assumes "Door Ajar" = Low Volts as the wiring diagram suggests and the BCM input voltages operate as anticipated. 1st, If possible measure the voltage on A6-A2 (RR) and compare to A6-A3 (LR) whilst opening/closing the respective doors, the results should be very similar or the same. If A6-A2 does not change state maybe something is still grounding that circuit (bad actuator) or the BCM is defective. Try unplugging C390 and see if the A6-A2 voltage changes. 2nd, Removing the BCM is a pain, but ifit is the BCM, again I would be tempted to remove (tricky) and open it up and inspect the PCB, particularly looking for dry joints to connector A6, watch this this video is similar> kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKbUcpqKa8SSqZo Regarding dealership, new BCMs and programming etc I have the feeling that is an expensive route to take, in all honesty I've never tried reprogramming a BCM myself. However if your not a member of www.hummerforums.com I suggest joining there are some very experienced senoir members who maybe able to help you with your questions. Here is a thread relating to BCMs www.hummerforums.com/forum/hummer-h2-8/bcm-removal-help-41935/ I believe the BCM holds the VIN number also a TECH2 scan tool is required to set up the vehicle (AirBag, brake pedal relearn) BCM replacement, repair, reprogramming is a subject I'd love to cover in great detail, I would also love to get my hands on a BCM, even a dead one.

[@Sskkwe]

Please let me know if you have any information. I'd like to check the H2 2005 gauge motion at 12v, but I don't know the gauge back terminal information.

[@hummerfixes]

arigatou MAsahiro-san. I think maybe (tabun) you are talking about the "Drivers's Door Actuator" also referred to as a door latch assembly? Anyway the part that locks the door. Personally I have never seen one up close, but according to the manual there is a 10-Way Connector (AMP P/No 10768367) which is wired as follows:- Pin ------ Wire Color ------ Circuit No ------- Function 1 xx xx Not Used 2 TAN 294 Door Lock Actuator Unlock Control 3 Grey 295 Door Lock Actuator Lock control 4-5 xx xx Not Used 6 Grey/Black 745 Left Front Door Ajar Switch Signal 7 xx xx Not Used 8 Brown 1183 Left Front Door Switch Low Reference 9 Light Green 262 Driver Door Key Switch Signal 10 xx xx Not Used Hopefully this is the info you need, if not please provide more details and I will do my best to help.😃

[@Sskkwe]

Thank you for your quick reply. You are good at Japanese. I apologize first. There was not much explanation. What I want to know is the speedometer gauge. I have an assy. I'd like to check if it works at 12v【+、-】. But I don't know the terminal information. You know so much that I relied on you.

[@hummerfixes]

@@Sskkwe Masahiro-san. If I understand correctly (wakarimasu) this is the litlle (chīsai) speedometer motor? If so then it is not possible to connect 12V directly, it is more complcated than that (muzukashi desu) All the guages on the instrument cluster are the same maybe this video will help kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3jXcn-wm5mLedk

[@Sskkwe]

Please watch 12min 40sec. I'd like to know how it starts on the desk. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5fRiZ-ZZb2cqc0