HVACR: Diversitech Wet Switch Installation Using Dry Contacts (WS-1 Flood Detector) Step By Step

Diversitech WS-1 Wet Switch Flood Detector
amzn.to/39WbVKf
A solid state control designed to help prevent flooding, damage to carpets, walls, furniture, ceilings, etc. Now has a built-in test and reset button for easier installation. Turns system off when detecting moisture due to condensate or drain leaks. One or two drops will cause Wet Switch to turn off a unit, alerting a serviceman to a moisture problem. A lit LED indicates the Wet Switch is activated and has turned the unit off. Reset simply by drying the absorbent pad with a paper towel and pressing the reset switch. Connects to 24 VAC. More than one unit may be connected to a system. 2 amp contact rating. Simple 5 wire installation.
Integral Feet
Integral feet raise the hydrophilic pad and sensor array off the drain pan slightly to prevent nuisance tripping and pan corrosion (metal pans only) from interfering with the sensor array.
Hydrophilic Pad
A high tech polymeric fiber quickly draws water into the sensor array using proven capillary technology.
Multiple Unit Connectivity
Multiple unit connectivity allows for multiple Wet Switches to be connected in series to adequately cover large drain pan areas.
Standard 24AC Control
Power supply to the Wet Switch® is 24VAC, the standard power available on most air handler units. This makes hookup quick and easy. There is no need to run different power to the switch.
Double Throw Relay
The double throw relay allows for wiring to interrupt the system and to sound an alarm (by others) when moisture is detected.
Stainless Steel Sensor Array
A high tech array of multiple stainless steel sensors detects even a minimal amount of water drawn into the hydrophilic pad.
Solid State Electronics
Proven electronics prevent mechanical failure in an aggressive operating environment.
Push to Reset
When the Wet Switch® activates, it locks out the call for cool circuit on the air conditioner until the switch is manually reset. This prevents continuing damage in cases where the overflow water drains out of the pan, onto the surrounding ceiling.
Push to Test
The push to test button on Wet Switch® gives the installer a quick, easy way to test the wiring on their installation. Giving you the confidence the switch will work as designed, when needed.
Compact Package
This technology is packed into a hockey puck sized 3-5/8" diameter by 1-1/4" high cylinder. Furnished complete with 5-conductor 22AWG stranded cable, 6' long.
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[@mikeedee4149]

Solid work! And that’s a beautiful thing! Keep em coming.

[@briannayuille3846]

Thank you! This really helped me figure out how to install this thing. I didn't realize it needs constant power on the red and black wires. This makes a lot more sense. Now I realize the orange and green only act as a circuit to cut power to the condenser.

[@UberDaddy1]

This is a great step by step video! thank for posting this. it has helped me understand how to wire up a wet switch to a unit in this field of work I will be watching more of your videos to help me further in my development in the HVAC field

[@izzybell11]

Interesting and helpful video. Well explained. As always great 👍 job JMT.

[@asoteico9528]

Great Installl The best one actually !!!

[@zekenzy6486]

Great Video. Thank you for sharing

[@tntheatingandairllc]

Great video buddy 👍👍

[@nycowboy2288]

Very nice video. I just hate waiting for those things to dry out. I end up putting a temporary one in and going back

[@noneyourbiz1978]

Shouldn't the green wire and orange wire been swapped? According to the diagram, doesn't the green wire bring power to the WS and the orange wire is power to the controller? You specifically said that power is coming into the WS via the orange wire ( 8:20). Am I wrong?

[@alexeytech1495]

Nice video and material/product.

[@Anver_Silyaev]

Блин, долго не мог понять что не так с акцентом: хорошее произношение и грамотная речь; - пока не увидел тату/наколку на руке. ✊🏻👍🏻 Хорошее видео. Вопрос: неужели на контроллере нет релейного входа для внешней аварии и единственный вариант - разрыв питания от трансформатора?

[@Arieldny]

thanks for the video I always have confusions with this wet switch, but an observation I think you never cut power the transformer however you did cut power from R to the thermostat.... please let me know that is correct. thanks for the video! get us some more.

[@neilvestervictor180]

nice work

[@loulondon6888]

So you just connected your 24v and capped the rest?

[@Red-j1i]

My Wet Switch tripped twice in two days, with no water in sight. The A/C also quit blowing cool air. The inside (and outside) fans both work but only blows regular air temp. Is this a coincidence that this happened the same time the Wet Switch tripped (first time in the six years we've been here)? (I changed the capacitor, but that didn't fix it.) Any suggestions? My main question is could a malfunctioning Wet Switch cause the air not to be cool? What if it wasn't wired correctly? Here's how its wired: green+black>blue (from transformer) / red>red (from transformer) / yellow>dark blue / white>capped off. BTW, the thermostat is still on when the Wet Switch trips. (2015 Daiken system)

[@mikestevens1728]

No drain pan under air handler? Is that not code where that is at?

[@brett5312]

In what sort of scenario could you see using the normally open contacts? Maybe an external alarm or something?

[@aaronbrandenburg2441]

Yes my thoughts exactly but couple options might be Simple may not. One would at least be to put a 24-volt preferably red indicator or LED or perhaps a flashing LED. Of course some sort of label next to it that would say something like water detected whatever. But if you could find a suitable soft buzzer or something that's possible as well. Since you already have the 24 volts available. Would be easy enough to use the other contact as you said! Even if feasible you may have a few extra wires in the thermostat cable. Depending on the setup. If you were to have at least one extra wire not in use. You could feasibly wire that to the normally open contacts provide 24 volts if water is detected. Some sort of indicator or something at the thermostat end of things. Also some thermostats do have emergency shutdown contacts now! As well as possibly amines at the thermostat the indicated that that was was initiated or activated or tripped! If that could be tied into with a 24 volt signal there you go and would provide indication that something and it happened at the thermostat. Also is often used when there's a float switch or more than one footswitch in the system# Not a technician here but someone that would know their way around control systems and other things in Myriad of different things! Also always always put some sort of float switch in a system no matter what! Where the places I stayed at I saw firsthand what can happen! Drain pan issues. Talk about water damage mold remediation Whole Nine Yards. Ceiling below the unit had to be ripped out! Nasty stuff that would really ruin someone's day if it ever does happened or the condensation drain gets clogged! In some cases you do have a secondary drain although I've heard of at least once we're both had been stopped up. The attic have been recently insulated and well some insulation found its way into the drain pan not good! Also if a condensation pump is used there's a float switch in those oftentimes. Could be wired the same way perhaps even connected simultaneously as Worthy's water detection modules as well and perhaps even with a float switch which should be included as I mentioned in every system! You know where there's potential for water to get where it shouldn't be! And there would be a way to easily prevent that or at least potentially stop damage! The naysayers Mayo that will never happen don't discount Murphy's Law! And almost every time somebody has actually come out and said that it's me about something lo and behold that's exactly what's happened the thing they said not to do was what would have saved that from happening every time! As one would say cheap insurance. Like in some areas believe or not required to have a fuse on a doorbell transformer oftentimes will just be regular light socket with a fuse in it. And there's been times I've retrofitted that after a Transformer Let the Smoke Out and cause problems let's just say. Besides if the doorbell transformer is on another circuit that's something a little more critical than the doorbell fuse would be good idea so Adagio Royal Transformer does not take out the entire circuit. Where I I stay now unfortunately cannot change this. But if the doorbell transformer where to go out take the circuit with it out to go to lights and nearly all the receptacles yeah Apartments!!!!

[@ogfktup]

How would you bypass this?

[@heavychevy2289]

Cut the orange and green wire close to the switch and twist them together.

[@picklerix6162]

Never heard of electric heat with a boiler. Doesn’t make sense to me.

[@nycowboy2288]

I was thinking the same thing maybe it’s in a condo or Florida and the water heater is the boiler

[@gepardhvacservice1882]

I just see your hands no wire where coming from. Three left wires ,where must be conected

[@jeraldlockhart2046]

What the hell you’re crawling around on a metal platform that’s not going to short you to ground and create a electrical safety hazard wow🎉😂😮

[@Gcanno]

That's not how it works

[@jeraldlockhart2046]

What kind of Afro engineer install that Dangerous ass metal platform to be sitting on