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Before you attempt this repair, look into the $25 Risk Racing Seal Doctor tool. If your problem is a good seal hopping over dirt, this tool may stop the leak! I have no affiliate link, so find yourself. Feel qualified to do your own fork seals? Here's a step-by-step video to give you an idea of the process. Know that the factory service manual supersedes any and all KZbin videos. Not confident after watching the video? Contact your local Buell club and see if a local member is up for helping you. It's appropriate etiquette to bring beer for such a friendly greybeard! For entertainment purpose, not an instructional video, use of this video is done at one's own risk and Ian Landesman is not held responsible for your faulty repair.
Torque Values:
Fork Cap to Damper Rod: 38-42 ft-lbs (51-57Nm)
Fork Cap to Fork: 22-30 ft-lbs (29-40Nm)
Lower Fork Clamp: 20-22 ft-lbs (20-27Nm)
Upper Fork Clamp: 23-25 ft-lbs (31-33Nm)
Front Axle: use anti-seize: 39-41ft-lbs (53-56Nm)
Front Axle Pinch Fasteners: 20-22 ft-lbs (27-30Nm)
Brake Caliper Fasteners: Red Loctite: 35-37 ft-lbs (48-50Nm)
Credit where due: I used these videos myself - • 2008 Buell XB12SCG For... , • Buell Ulysses xb12x fo...
Additionals: I have been told the spark plug socket I show in the video is 5/8" and the one that works is 13/16". I have not confirmed, but sounds right.
Video suggests a 32mm for the tube cap. An 1 ¹/⁴ deep socket works too and is actually tighter than a 32.
For making the seal driver out of an 1 ¹/⁴ PVC tee, make sure it's 1 ¹/⁴ x 1/2 in tee. I bought one that was 1 ¹/⁴ x 1 ¹/⁴ and the added material in the pipe for the big 1 ¹/⁴ tee portion made it impossible to snap onto the fork, even after grinding it down many times. I went and bought an 1 ¹/⁴ x 1/2 from Lowes (only place I could find one) and it worked like a champ.
Also, I didn't have the issue (but a viewer did and this is what he said) when you go to remove the pre-load adjuster cap, one of mine just spun the while dampening rod assembly, instead of just the cap. I had to compress the sleeve assembly and put the 17mm on a step earlier (make sure to do it UNDER the teflon bushing) so I could crank the pre-load cap down to remove the snap ring.