LS9 Supercharger INTERCOOLER Lid Comparison OEM vs. KONG vs. DSX v2 Review | C6 Corvette ZR1

[@Anthony_Pell]

Expensive test to be conducting on your own. Look forward to the results.

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Results all ready posted check out my LS9 playlist. Ive done more testing and explaining then all the aftermarket lid guys put together. Thanks for watching!

[@bm717252]

@@JohnFrancoNH if someone were to purchase the Kong 2650 blower could they also purchase DSX blower lid with CR Racing Bricks to work with the 2650?

[@Gym-bars-cars]

Awesome Info…. I have a ctsv I was able to achieve 850whp with factory 1.9l ported blower and reinforced brick lid porting etc…… moral of the story is GM did almost everything right from the factory. There is only small efficiencies that can be had but result in a better performing vehicle.

[@Imesswithcars]

Do you have a link to the insulation you use inside the supercharger?

[@JB-ej8zy]

Im assuming if you install c&r bricks in stock ls9 lid youd need a re tune ? We just did and my mechanic said the car is running lean at idle and recommend a re tune but i dont k ow enough about it to know if that could cause a issue with car being lean or rich.

[@JohnFrancoNH]

yes the C&Rs flow more air because of the larger cross sectional area. More airflow will mean you need a re tune. Im assuming he measured the AFR before and after to come up with that conclusion? That does seem normal when changing anything in the airflow path. I would not beat on the car until it gets a proper re tune on a dyno.

[@JB-ej8zy]

@JohnFrancoNH thanks for your response ill talk to him tomorrow.

[@m_zr1]

I have the stock lid with kong hd bricks I’m interested to see the the difference between the C&R bricks and the Kong bricks

[@JohnFrancoNH]

You are leaving power on the table with those Chinese made bricks. USA made C&Rs will cool better (drop iat2 10F) and flow more air so much that you will definitely need a retune, otherwise youll run too lean. Many others have made the switch and gained approx 20whp.

[@m_zr1]

@@JohnFrancoNH definitely gonna order one 👌🏻

[@coryryland6644]

I bought a new kong off a buddy. Already sold my lingenfelter bricks. Hope I didn’t make a mistake

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Dude, I hate to bring you bad news but you are not going to be happy with that lid. You are going to notice high IAT2 immediately. OEM lid and c&r pwr bricks is the pinnacle for cooling and airflow on an LS9.

[@briangarcia4496]

Nice Video. Seems like using the stock lid is the best combo. Now did you used the Kong air divider on the stock lid? What you recommend? Thanks!

[@davidciesielski8251]

Hi, thanks...I am going to put a Magnuson on my zl1 1le yes I know its 6 grand but then its over... the cooling. extra power. By the time you port the 1.7 your at 1/3 of the money ...does not make sense to me... Please tell me if you think i'm wrong

[@taylorsrus9543]

Much better. I have a CTS-V with a Kong 2650 and Kong lid but I have none of this guys problems. Did well into the 900whp with it. Bigger blowers make life easier.

[@JohnFrancoNH]

You are still loosing 30whp with that dual pass lid not mention never ending high IAT2. That lid is poorly sealed and leaks hot compression stage air, i know because i completely disassembled mine. I also did a comparison test on the same dyno with 2 other lids. It only achieve its airflow by bypassing the intercooler brick core. Its core is made in china junk

[@taylorsrus9543]

@@JohnFrancoNH again, I don't have your issues with RPM, low power or IAT2. Not every setup is yours. You are fortunate to have the LS9 which provides more choices and good that you found one that works for you. The LSA is different providing only the C&R core which they state themselves is not expected to cool better than the OEM, but is stronger. People have had success with both and many of the fastest cars are using the stock lids. The commentor asked about the maggie for an LSA and it would be a great choice to go to a bigger blower and I provided my experience with my setup.

[@davidciesielski8251]

@@JohnFrancoNH Hi, I am sorry, are you saying this about the magnuson? Please help

[@LS3_LaFlare]

China brick. I’m sick. Smh. No excuse for that. But I’ve had success with the Kong lid, personally, but I didn’t limit airflow like you did. So much so, I bought a second one for my CTS-V that will be here tomorrow to pair with my ported blower… IAT2s were like 15* higher at cruise at all times, but on a pull they don’t climb nearly as much compared to a zl1/CTSV lid! They barely move, and bleed off quickly after(I relocated the IAT sensor to the front of the blower in previous builds). Just my experience. Best part about Kong lids (or billet in general) is how much they amplify the whine… but anyway, very thorough video! Was nice to see the Kong lid taken apart. -a true daily driver

[@JohnFrancoNH]

The IAT2 should not be higher with a properly designed lid and core. It should be lower. That right there should be a red flag. Especially after spending 3k plus tax. The standard GM IAT2 sensors are very slow in response time. Thats why it seems like it doesnt move. Even after relocating to the coolest spot on the blower. Its tricking you. Try a GM brown tip fast response IAT2 sensor it will be very eye opening, your IAT2 will update instantly and youll see even higher temps. That dual pass lid is known as the Alaskan lid in the ZR1 world cuz its terrible at keeping blower temps down. Why do you think Kong has now come out with a newer gen3 lid to replace it cuz he knows it wasnt a performer. New lid also has dual Chinese bricks and has the ZR1 lid/brick configuration because it does not block the blower outlet with brick core and flows better.

[@LS3_LaFlare]

@@JohnFrancoNH Our experiences will be different because I didn’t disassemble the brick and block airflow, nor did I use a LS9 blower. I used a LSA blower with the square orange gasket. I’m pretty sure nobody will block airflow on the Kong lid, and that is why some people are reporting good results like myself. It’s the same sensor used in the zl1/ctsv lid, but testing /experience came from the IAT2 sensor being in the blower, so that may be why IAT2s were higher at cruise/idle, but during a WOT pull, that is where it shines. Most people urged me to tap the blower because the standard IAT2 location on the Kong lid didn’t see as much airflow maybe that is why IAT2s were higher to start. My testing was during the summer in PHX with 110-120* ambient temps. Just like most things on the market, they go through revisions (same with the DSX lid like you stated in the video) with feedback and experience. I’m simply offering perspective on my experience. I am not blindly defending Kong, I’m actually disgusted it’s a china brick as an Army veteran and pro American made man… but, again, 99% of people using a Kong lid with success will not take steps to block airflow. I’m installing the Kong lid on my V2 today with a ported blower and ~11lbs of boost (before the ported blower). I’ll leave the IAT2 sensor in the lid this time and report my experience for those who care.

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Yes i agree the LSA and LS9 have a different sealing methods. But from my dyno test video shows i hit an airflow limit at 5500 rpm when on the dyno. But you still dont fully understand what i did. I wasnt blocking airflow. All i am doing was providing the same sealing strategy as oem LS9 lid. I was forcing all the air to flow thru the intercooler core (as it should be) instead of bypassing it like kong asks (to make up for a poor flowing core). The chinese core itself is the airflow restriction. Thats why the dual pass has purposely poor seals, the hot compression air is working its way around (bypassing) the core when installed on an LS9 to achieve airflow. Which leads to uneven AFR per cylinder. The dual pass does ok under 850whp. Once above that point it becomes a restriction from all my testing and experience.

[@LS3_LaFlare]

@@JohnFrancoNH If Kong designed X amount of air to bypass, and you sealed that air in, then that is why I’m saying ‘blocking’. But I understand what you did and why you did it. I appreciate your testing big time!!! Don’t wanna take away from that with going back and forth lol And before the ported blower and lid I only put down 610whp/625wtq on 91 so I’m well below that and just spending unnecessary money for looks/whine 😅

[@Shaker1000]

I've been looking for just the ls9 lid with out the bricks but can't find it used for a good deal where a good place to look?

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Corvette Forum and facebook ZR1 groups

[@BlueBoyyyyyy]

But will the factory ls9 bricks bolt directly into that black lid? Asking because the stock bricks are priced cheaper.

[@JohnFrancoNH]

if you are referring to the DSX V2 lid then yes. Stock brinks do not last long once you start modding and going higher in boost

[@BlueBoyyyyyy]

Are any of the lids in the video able to work on the 1.9 lsa blower?

[@bobd9911]

@@BlueBoyyyyyy I'm putting the DSX ls9 lid on my lsa thats going in a '00 z28

[@ScottO84]

​@@BlueBoyyyyyyYes, the holes on LS9 lids should work on the LSA. Per Boost District and Jesse Olson (Olson Kustom Works), you need to make a small notch in the seal where the dual LS9 bricks meet it.

[@gerardoa9474]

I appreciate this video thx

[@TheKeatyBear]

Has kong updated their lid design since

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Yes he has, but after being fooled on this dual pass lid im not so incline to give him another $3000. OEM LS9 lid has unmatched airflow and with c&r bricks it cools and recovers quickly and can handle alot of boost. The new design has mixed results some say it does great and some said it performed worse. So i wont know until i test one on my car.

[@TheKeatyBear]

@JohnFrancoNH okay interesting. I just picked up a kong and the newer gen three lid. Ill report back once i get some data on the track. Its a drift car so things get hott pretty fast

[@Ty_Moonlight]

John, When u ran the oem lid u weren't using the kong divider & air foils right? Just the C&Rs?

[@JohnFrancoNH]

yes only C&Rs the kong pieces will not fit FYI

[@johnnyduguay9399]

u can fit the kong divider in the stock lid with c&r brick because the bricks are way to big cant fit divider in

[@briangarcia4496]

What about the seal. You used the stock seals?

[@Stroker_B]

Do u have a link for the foam seal you used with the kong lid?

[@JohnFrancoNH]

email me for details, its not just any foam. Its high temp silicone expensive stuff...

[@bryanbartlett1645]

Thank you for showing us the three different Lids I knew Kong's supercharger lid was b*******

[@JohnFrancoNH]

yup did you see the made in china label? Brick core is restrictive it can not flow air past 5500rpm @ 19psi. And also higher IAT2 due to poor heat absorption ability of brick. Check out my dyno test.

[@bryanbartlett1645]

Yeah the DSX lid is way better

[@LS1NNOVATIONS]

Almost 3g for the Kong lid with Wuhan parts. Dam.

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Yup i bet the same for the new Gen3 lid design LOL

[@MparLifeHernandez]

But until DSX or stock lid outperform Kong more people will trust them. Kong I believe holds many records. Not sure why Kong pissed you off so bad either. Btw all the bricks are made in China 😂

[@JohnFrancoNH]

You are incorrect, do your homework. C&R bricks are made in the USA my guy.

[@stickmanutilities]

Kong Lid has a China Brick SMH