Installing 220v Outlets in the Shop - Easier Than You Thought

[@evil6822055]

People are usually shocked when they find out that I'm not a very good electrician

[@katzmosestools]

Bahahahahaha

[@sisyphushappyxvx]

ba-dump!

[@dongemus]

You win, I'm going home😂😂😂

[@ben12079]

Levi Jeans heh, I see what you did there...

[@danielgeng2306]

Levi Jeans lmao !!!

[@MarioHernandez-hb8eh]

I'm a license electrician, you did everything right, with one exception, all metal boxes have to grounded, that's why each box has a ground screw. Over all you did a great job

[@bulljolly7028]

Good catch

[@stacystarnes1449]

Ty for the info. I recently watched a video explaining the ground and why one should ground each box. It was a cartoon and showed the character becoming the pathway of least resistance. I know its basic for you electricians, but I didn't understand why each box needed to be grounded when there was already a ground in the panel. Again ty for the solid bit of LIFE SAVING input.

[@nodave77]

all the metal boxes are connected with metal conduit, so aren't they technically grounded already?

[@MarioHernandez-hb8eh]

@@nodave77 it is, you should pull a ground wire thru conduit also, if connectors loosing up. You will lose your ground

[@saiedbenyamin7254]

@@nodave77 They are, but electrical current will take the path of least resistance, so to make sure it is lower resistance than through your body to ground, you should ground every box.

[@bushgnome]

Licensed Electrician here, I think you did a great DIY vid man. I generally cringe at the DIY videos on youtube on this subject well, because everything they tell people to do or they do them self is oh so wrong. From the type of wire they use or how its ran or leaving it exposed/ code violations ect. But I actually thought you did/ explained everything just fine and in a way that about anyone can understand. Great job my friend!

[@katzmosestools]

Thanks bud! A lot of arm chair quarterback commenters in here

[@seanmaguid6]

@@katzmosestools You did ask for comments.

[@t_ravi_ous9493]

Aside from the under sized ground in my opinion.. really think there should be a way back for each one. 120 doesn't leave me so earie but in this case...

[@wansolve2036]

ChromerSatanas what part of his demo were incorrect?

[@xChromerSatanasx]

@@wansolve2036 hmm🤔 actually he did a good job. I don't know what I was thinking.

[@GregsGarage]

You are brave my friend... Not for doing the electrical work, but for posting a video about it. LOL! Good work.

[@katzmosestools]

Hahaha thanks bud.

[@brucebear1]

@@katzmosestools Yeah, I see the usefulness of a very academic video where an electrical engineering professor from a fine technical university describes all the functions and features of particular electrical items -- BUT THIS ISN'T THIS, AND THAT'S OK! This is a fine practical guide and I think it's very useful. Thanks for posting.

[@MatthewHolevinski]

That's what I thought! The nuts on this guy, he's braver than me! The electricians of the world are RUTHLESS!

[@DonkeyLipsDA3rd]

@@MatthewHolevinski Yes we are.

[@bradbennati2600]

Matthew Holevinski Yes we are.

[@dandan1364]

I have no capacity to resist this video. This guy has potential. 240v is watt I really need.

[@KevinCoop1]

He is actually installing 208 volts.

[@dandan1364]

@@KevinCoop1 you’re resisting my pun.

[@hokieinidaho]

@@dandan1364 Hey, I got it right away, but I'm EE. lol

[@scottsmith5398]

I noticed that several professional electricians have commented below. None seemed to notice the 208V issue so I will go into a little more detail. This panel is fed from a three phase power source. The source is connected in a Y configuration. I know this because you have three "hot"/phase conductors plus a neutral. The voltage between any two "hot" conductors will be 208V, not 240V as the video states. The voltage between any "hot"/phase conductor and neutral is indeed 120V as stated in the video. There is no 240V anywhere in this panel. If you will notice, the videographer never measures the voltage between any two "hot"/phase conductors. If he did he would measure 208V. For a three phase Y connected source the mathematical relationship between line to neutral and line to line voltage is a factor of √3. You multiply the line to neutral voltage by the √3 (1.73) to get line to line voltage. 120 X 1.73 = 208 (okay, you have figured out by now that I am an electrical engineer). If the videographer would measure the voltage between any two of the "hot"/phase conductors in the panel or measure the voltage between the two "hot"/phase conductors in the outlet connector he will find 208V. Sometimes this a non-issue and sometimes it is a problem depending on the equipment that is being powered. On another note, I am jealous that he has three phase power in his shop. This is almost never the case in a residential environment.

[@peterhessels2903]

I was an electrical apprentice for 8 months approximately 30 years ago. Without any school training, just in the field. We did wire in a 'phase generator' for a sawmill the had only two phase (firm) power and three phase motors. The other question I would have is if you use only two hots from a three phase supply, do the motors lose efficiency due to the phases not being 180° from each other? Aren't the phases pulsing at 120° then at 240° then nothing at 360°? So yes, still pulsing twice per cycle but not completely opposed to each other?

[@johnwilson839]

related issue - if you want to wire a 240V 3 conductor plus ground type connector such as a 14-50R connector like they use for EV level 2 charging then the neutral wire will no longer be balanced between the two hot lines. Not sure if the EV would be damaged or even notice the difference but it doesn't seem ok. I think some kind of caution about many types of residential 240 installations not being quite as simple as this 2 wire plus safety ground installation would be appropriate. I also think many household 240 appliances need 3 conductor plus ground such as laundry dryers and electric ranges. While other things like hot water heaters could be fine with the 2 hot plus ground installation. I'm not familiar with whether any "Shop" appliances would require a true 240 split phase service or not, but a three phase service presented to an audience familiar with single/split phase in their home seems to me to add a lot of subtle potential problems in communication. Oh and yeah another EE perspective here - no electrician experience.....

[@bingS4]

I liked how you recommend the twist lock plug... and then don't twist it to lock it when you plugged it in. :)

[@rickkeys2345]

I also noticed that but I wasn't going to comment

[@goodolarchie]

He needed some roasting fodder. It worked!

[@Engineer9736]

@@rickkeys2345 You still did, though

[@rickkeys2345]

@@Engineer9736 Only took someone "six months" to point that out!

[@hynoticlistener7047]

I watched this because I needed to understand what would be required if I were to call someone to install an outlet for an electric dryer and because I don’t to be a complete idiot about any aspect of my home. While I probably won’t tackle the project myself, thank you for putting this out, I learned a lot!

[@joshmatthew4125]

Its important to know how many amps your equipment requires and size the breaker, wires and outlets correctly. Good video!

[@elioselectric468]

You have two grounding conductors in that panel, the one you tested was on an insulated bar meaning it's isolated back to the main. This is usually done for more sensitive electronics. The grounding conductor you want is on the left side of the panel.

[@ireviewapple4you]

Does that matter? Can I use either one for installs like this? I’m genuinely curious!

[@jc_yadigg]

@@ireviewapple4you in theory no it does not matter for person use. however you could cause a nightmare for the next person who owns the properly if they use something that is sensitive to stray voltage. especially if they don't know wheres its coming from something like this could be hard to track down

[@jonathanz9895]

The non bonded neutral and ground bar is because it's a sub panel and the ground conducter is the called the grounding conductor and the neutral conductor is the grounded conductor

[@stickermigtigger]

The licensing scam always got laughs from me while working as an electrician and I loved the looks on home owner's faces when I explained it to them. A competitor advertised he was licensed. I told people to ask to be sure and ask him where that license was from because there was no licensing agency or requirement in the rural area where we were.

[@perrinromney4555]

Overall good install. Quick clarification that most houses in the US use 240 split phase, while the system shown was a 208 3 phase. 220 is rare in the US. This doesn’t affect much, and most >200V tools can handle all three, but hopefully this helps someone trying to figure out why their numbers don’t match.

[@user.A9]

My brain rolls over in my skull every time someone says 220 instead of 240 or 208.

[@matsudakodo]

@@user.A9 many HVAC companies state 208/230...

[@im1-z2x]

So will a 220v machine operate correctly with a 208 3 phase supply ?

[@JeanPierreWhite]

@@user.A9 Yep. Or when folks say 110 instead of 120. Change is difficult for some people. It hasn't been 110/220 for almost 100 years. In the early 1900s, the first power systems in the US were 110/220 volts. In the 1930s, the voltage increased to 115/230 volts due to increasing power demands. In the 1960s, the voltage changed again to 120/240 volts. In 1967, the voltage became standardized as 120/240 volts. I wonder if folks will stay say 110/220 in another 100 years.

[@livens100]

​@@JeanPierreWhiteMy grandpa called it 110 and 220 when I was a kid and it stuck. I know what the real numbers are but the 10's and 20's just sound so right in my head.

[@CBL138]

Thanks for sharing. Not slamming you man...just adding to your knowledge. It’s best to test your multi meter on a known live source before ensuring your panel is dead. You could very well have a broken lead or defective meter and it could display 0 volts.

[@KnightofRave]

Mr SunshinesThe professionals are telling you to quit being a dumbass.

[@ronhughes1822]

Good video, one thing I would add is when you're using stranded wire, you should tighten set screw, then a few minutes later you should retighten as they will settle and be too loose if not retightened😎

[@riffdex]

Does this apply to wire nut twist connectors as well?

[@jacobg1984]

Wire ferrules on stranded wire might be a good practice.

[@cameronnovak]

What do you do in the event that the stranded wire wants to squeeze or spill out from around the set screw? Would I need to get solid wire in that case, and would it also want to travel away from the screw head when tightening?

[@goodolarchie]

lol, I love your humility in this video. Great way to let folks know they CAN do it, but many of them SHOULD NOT do it themselves. Make friends with an Electrician!

[@joebaker5421]

Easiest way to do electrical: become a drinking buddy of an electrician.

[@katzmosestools]

Hahahaha true!

[@leisureavidgentleman8901]

Lol so true.

[@SleepyGary-z4x]

I took this advice, while it's easy to do electrical, it's not that easy on the liver.

[@thedwarfgimli5323]

@@SleepyGary-z4x man, can we drink.

[@glynowilliams]

u have to put a beer at every outlet box too...

[@extremewhitetail837]

Thank you for keeping your video realistic. To an average homeowner like me it's nice to have someone explain it straight forward. None of us what to die putting in a 220 so it is 100% our responsibility to do it safe. You just teach us the basics. Again thank you!

[@andreh.dupuis8475]

In my opinion the « average homeowner » should never open a breaker panel period. Only approx 20% are diy and out of that maybe 50% touch electricity work and take sufficient time to study what this involves and understand the safety measures. By the way it’s not the voltage that kills in an electric shock but the amperage. would you rather get hit by a 2x4 or a 2x10 ? Mike Tyson hitting you with a 2x4 is more lethal than your grandma hitting you with a 2x10😉

[@TheCookster64]

@@andreh.dupuis8475 Considering the intelligence of the average homeowner I'd have to agree. If I attempt this I'll shut the power off where it comes in off the road at the main shut off. Problem solved. I just got a $2,200 quote to have a 220 60 amp breaker and line installed. The washer/dryer combo only needs 30 amps. I've done plenty of work in the past, just never installed a new breaker. This video helped my confidence level.

[@andreh.dupuis8475]

@@TheCookster64 good for you, when in doubt double check with a voltage detector, be safe 😀

[@zlinedavid]

Always, always ALWAYS check every incoming connection with a test probe to make sure there’s zero current running to the box.

[@SeanFoushee]

Last summer, after getting estimates from three local electricians on adding a single 220 outlet to run my tablesaw, I decided to save $400 and do it myself (I also made my own wire just like you showed on IG for your new Invicta Jointer); it was a snap. I would, however, mention that one thing I was hoping you would go over-or at least mention-is that the conduit you run will determine the number of wires for a given gauge that can be run safely. In my case I had to run a thicker gauge due to the amps the saw required and that changed the conduit size I used. But thank you for unabashedly posting this video, it really is as easy as you showed.

[@katzmosestools]

I really appreciate it bud!

[@lindapotratz411]

regarding individual grounding….since conduit, receptacles, outlets all have metal does that tie all in as grounded since they originate at panel ground??

[@jorangel87]

I’m a union electrician and you did just great dude. Keep it up.

[@davidicousgregorian]

he was ok except he said it was ok to use a 30 amp 220 outlet served by a 20 amp circuit which is incorrect cause the outlet will draw as much as 30 amp if there waas a fault so max outlet should be a 220 20 amp outlet if it is a 30 amp he needs to use a 30 amp 220 breaker and a 30 amp gauge wire also all metal boxes need to add ground pigtail to each splice box with green screws and straps are needed on conduit in required distances

[@fshalor738]

Yup. the only point I'd make is, try and stay consistent in red/black handedness. If you are running a bunch of outlets in the shop, it makes it easier to have a pattern and mark it on the panel. The shop I worked in had a huge amount of power, and 220VAC outlets in every lab room. Some rooms had 3-4 outlets and the machine shop had tons of drops. RedTop at the breakers, RedRightSide referenced off ground in all outlets.

[@Z28PAPI]

@@davidicousgregorian I was curious about the wire he was using because it looked kind of thin. How do you determine the gauge of wire and the proper amp for the breaker.

[@davidicousgregorian]

@@Z28PAPI sorry it took so long but the answer is based on amperage limits easy way is if it is 15 amp its limit is 1500 watts if its 20 amp limit is 2000 watts 30 amp is 3000 watts and so on and 14 gauge limit is 1400 plus 25 percent so 15 amp etc. 15 amp is no more than 14 g wire 20 amp is no more no less than 12 guage 30 amp is 10 guage and 40 amp is usually not used but a 50 amp is a 6 guage and 60 amp is needing a 2 guage 14-gauge wire 15 amps 12-gauge wire 20 amps 10-gauge wire 30 amps 8-gauge wire 40 amps 6-gauge wire 55 amps 4-gauge wire 70 amps 3-gauge wire 85 amps 2-gauge wire 95 amps Wire Use Rated Ampacity Wire Gauge Low-voltage lighting and lamp cords 10 amps 18-gauge Extension cords (light-duty) 13 amps 16-gauge Light fixtures, lamps, lighting circuits 15 amps 14-gauge Kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles (outlets); 120-volt air conditioners 20 amps 12-gauge Electric clothes dryers, 240-volt window air conditioners, electric water heaters 30 amps 10-gauge Cooktops and ranges 40-50 amps 6-gauge Electric furnaces, large electric heaters (not furnace switch that is 15amp 14 guage ) 60 amps 4-gauge your welcome hope this helps also see this for more info www.thespruce.com/matching-wire-size-to-circuit-amperage-1152865

[@Z28PAPI]

@@davidicousgregorian best KZbin reply I've ever received

[@rrdevries100]

It is definitely easy and if you have a shop where the conduit is exposed, do it yourself and save a bundle. Just remember to get the correct breakers to match the type of panel you have. You usually can't return breakers so make sure you check first.

[@robjohnston3951]

Exactly what I was looking for! Straightforward, common sense video with no extra “see how smart I am” baloney! Thanks!

[@584customs6]

Very clear and concise. I know the point was not to go over code , but I guess it would have been worth mentioning or partially explaining that you should make sure that your panel can handle another 220v breaker before going through all that work. Especially those who don’t have a dedicated shop and run off of a single whole house panel!

[@Subway1427]

I have LITERALLY been stressing about 220v for days. I need an outlet in my garage to run my welder and have been stressing about how much it'll cost and can it be done etc etc.. Thanks for the video buddy, I think I can sleep tonight. Probably won't do it myself this time around, but I'm definitely glad I saw this

[@ColdWarVet607]

US Navy Nuc Electrician. Nicely done! I'd add to first test your meters ability to read the panel hot first so you know when meter reads 0, its because of power cut from the panel and not a broken meter reading 0v by default. for all YT'ers do tag out the breaker that feeds the panel as he did here, its the most important step next to checking for power.

[@fotopdo]

Good Vid! Well explained. Love the 3 phase! For me working with household electric made sense once I realized that the standard panel is 240 volts and that the 120v circuits are a special adaptation, not the other way around. It’s not immediately obvious because most circuits are 120v. 240v just connects across the two 120 legs. A 120v circuit connects one of the 120 legs to neutral, making it very similar to a center tap on a transformer used to get a lower voltage. This also requires that the loads be balanced across the two 120v legs. Example, most new kitchens have two 20 amp circuits, they are usually high demand and put on separate 120v legs. Similarly you’d try to balance the household lighting evenly.

[@dawson_5.0]

I have a old Lincoln welder and I have a few projects that need some welding on and this was the information I needed thank you my buddy is an electrician and I’ll have him help me with it👍🏼

[@saritsotangkur2438]

For those that want to try their own electrical work but want someone to check what they do, you could always try to get a permit and inspection from your local building office. Just call ahead and talk with someone about what work you should accomplish for rough-in vs final inspection. They are usually very friendly to homeowners.

[@carsonconlee6277]

Sarit Sotangkur or just post it on KZbin... they will be sure to correct you

[@mikerosoft1009]

That works for homes, but in most areas you need an electrical contractor to pull the permit in a commercial setting.

[@hotrodhog2170]

In my area of the US, if you call the inspector for advice they will shut your job down for not being a licensed electrician! Never call the inspector or building permit office asking questions, look it up online. My advantage to getting around this is that my best friend of 20 years IS the electrical inspector!

[@chriswitek9455]

Man I know this is old, but cities are not friendly to home owners. Not electrical but they told my friend he needs to have x% of green space on his property so they wouldn't let him build his deck he wanted. All the water from the alley would pool in his yard and he's got dogs. It's a mudfest. They didn't care if it was only 3% off if it wasn't "correct" they'd make him remove it. Of course he could apply for an exemption for 750 bucks and they could still say no. No refund. Pulling permits for your own stuff is ridiculous

[@davidcapella4877]

The inspector shouldn’t shut your job down you are the home owner. Pulling a permit is helpful god forbid you ever need to file a house insurance claim. Insurance companies will deny claims if permits weren’t pulled and it was the result of your work.

[@josereyes3472]

Very good, and simple. I my self, not an electrician, usually LOTO the breakers, that leaving a note behind is a no no. You always got one person who doesnt care about notes...

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Licensed electrician here too. Not bad, be sure to terminate conductors on devices so that when you tighten them down the conductor sits in the direction being tightened down (clockwise).

[@williamdebow3478]

Great job, my only advice is to be consistent and call it 240 volts like it is. If each leg is 120 volts, then you are getting 240 volts when using two legs. With single phase it is linear, 120 + 120 = 240. It just makes you sound more knowledgeable when using proper terminology.

[@rogeroday9408]

This is the first install I can’t complain about. Just can’t go with out saying, You were awful cozy with the screwdriver and probes in that panel. Treat electrical like you treat a gun. “It’s always hot.” Remember, your sending this video to show how easy it is. A novice needs to be reminded not to get complacent. Electrical is easy and safe if you’re cautious.

[@clydebalcom8252]

Your safety is impeccable, and you explain everything clearly. I appreciate you using Lockout/Tagout.

[@idontthinkso666]

Nice that you mentioned "Lockout/Tagout." I spent 6 years in the US Nuclear Navy, which is maybe the best education you'll ever get on Lockout/Tagout. However, we should note that Jonathan Katz-Moses only used the weaker half of that system here, the tagout. Better practice is use the lockout, too. To those unfamiliar with Lockout/Tagout, that means you both "tag" the valve/electrical device (different color tags mean different things) and then you physically lock the item (item = panel, valve, outlet, manifold, etc.). This prevents some bonehead from bumbling along, ignoring your tag, energizing the line, and killing you. To be fair to JKM, in this setting, tagout is more common and what most of us do. When working by myself, I take it one step further. I pick up the phone and call my wife/brother/dad (whoever is available) and tell them that I'm doing electrical work, and that i will be done in about 5 (or 10 or 15, whatever) minutes, and i will call them when done to confirm that i am safe & didn't shock myself. And if i don't call at the appointed time, they are to call 911 on my behalf!

[@pemtax557]

Well done Jonathan ... this is one of those topics that tend to bring everyone out of the shadows and only total competence will keep most of them at bay. You managed to do just that ... again, well done. Cheeers!

[@awesomemike8219]

Dude this is easy, I've rewired alot of my 110 outlets during my remodel and need a 220 for a mini spit, Electricians quoted 400 plus for two 220 outdoor outlets, heck this is so dam easy. Hot Tube and Mini Split 220's soon to come. I can run the conduit outside on a Sunday, pull my wire and connect. NEVER knew it was this easy, thought multiple wires, special connections. Thanks!!!! I used to run low voltage so this is not for the everyday type of person.

[@russellvance9882]

My only suggestion would be to use a breaker box lock or at least a zip tie to lock that box shut in addition to putting a note on it. Lock-out tag-out for the win! Of course for the home user it generally isn't a problem. BTW, I love your videos!

[@jrbohan2]

With my family, I'd still use the lock-out tag-out at home. Just my luck the sign falls off and someone thinks the whole breaker box blew and just turns it on.

[@georgehogle6006]

One thing I liked about your video is that you demonstrated that the bus bar is HOT!!!!

[@satin227]

You know it gonna be a good video when ElctroBOOM gets a mention

[@ChristianCMC]

I need to add a 220 volt circuit in my garage because the one there now trips alot when I run my planner and dust collection. I'm going to just do it myself as long as everything is de energized it's all good. Thanks brother.

[@teejaydupree1744]

Dude...thank you. Just retro'd a lone 110v outlet on a dedicated circuit to 220 for my incoming jointer.....would not have attempted it without your video. I need to buy something from your site to say thank you for saving me the elec $$$. Unless my barn burns down and the insurance people finger me for crappy wiring :). Be well.

[@CHSSeniorproject]

Nice video, here's a few comments from a professional sparky to help those who may not be familiar with 3Ø power. The system that you have there is a 3Ø, 4 wire, Wye system which is 208Y/120 volts. Your 2 pole receptacle is being fed with 208 volts, it is not 240 volts or 220 volts. The nominal 1Ø voltage system in the United States is 120/240. A 3Ø, 4 wire Delta system would be 240/208/120, see no 220 volts (it's an obsolete term).

[@masonmcfarlin4640]

You wanna become drinking buds I got some wiring I need done 🤣

[@michaelnoone1565]

Yeah he glossed over the 3 phase thing. Also his neutral will not actually be neutral due to the hots being 120 degrees (not 180 degrees) out of phase with each other. Does equipment mind that?

[@brandondeyoung2771]

I was wondering the same thing. I think the bandsaw motor might not work as well as it should. But I'm really new at this.

[@gattac900]

You had me at “I’m going to do the dumbest thing you can do”

[@TheChristCenteredCraftsman]

Couple things I would add to the video. If people do decide to go with a 30 amp plug and breaker they need to increase their wire from 12 gage to 10 gage. Also something I was instructed to do when I was an apprentice was. With stranded wire tighten the screw, wiggle the wire back and forth several times and tighten again.

[@zenginellc]

Yeah... I'm gonna just slap a wire ferrule on any stranded wire I'm using.. That said, I would also just get solid-core for anything larger than 18AWG personally, but to each their own I suppose.

[@TheChristCenteredCraftsman]

@@zenginellc I would prefer solid core as well. But I had to learn with what I was given.

[@nexxusty]

​@@TheChristCenteredCraftsmanWho wouldn't prefer solid core? I can't even fathom why anyone would ever use stranded wire when installing electrical.

[@TheSMEAC]

👍 I have a detached barn/shop and have just added a sub panel to the shop just for my 220. Sadly, with a 127 year old home, my main power comes from a master panel up at the house. There’s two sources coming into the barn breakered up at the house at 90 amp each. I currently only have two devices that need 220; my bandsaw and my 17k heater that’s used to supplement the small propane heater in Jan/Feb or to take the edge off the cold first thing in the mornings during the winter. Before the 17k heater, I’d have a large kerosene heater going, but got headaches from the fumes and it took up valuable floor space. Will add a second service to the house this next year when we do some renovations/etc, so two bills in the end, but it’ll be nice to have a full on 3 phase capable panel. I don’t see me buying a 3 phase tool ever, but certainly will be adding a new dust collector to replace my current one some day. Essentially all 2 phase will run from one panel and all outlet/fixture power will run from another. Thanks Jonathan.

[@jefpduct8725]

Best teacher on KZbin so far I've seen.

[@125jesusfreak]

If it's 3 phase, It's really 208, although 220V appliances won't have any problem running on 208V. The wye configuration (three phases and a center-tapped neutral) gives you 120 ph-g and 208 ph-ph. Unless you have single-phase service at the panel, you won't get 240V across the two hot wires without a transformer.

[@gabrielfavela8139]

Was looking for this comment. Hopefully more people are informed about this. 👍 We all should really stop using the term 220v. It is an old nominal voltage way back. The standard now is sph 120/240, 3ph 120/208 or a delta 240 I believe.

[@johndavies2949]

208 and 240 volt systems are kinda fun to deal with. 3 phase will be 120/208. Single phase will be 120/240. There really isn't 220 but people say that all the time. So when I was wiring schools that had wood shops I noticed tha t all the motors like on the lathes, table saws, jointer-planers, jig saw, band saw, etc were all rated for 200 volts instead of 208. Well mind you, I a school the electrical panel could be way down the hall a hundred feet or so. Engineers take this into account when specifying the equipment. So they spec 200 volt motors. So for fun I measured the voltage at the receptacle without the equipment running. It was 208 volts. But when the saw was turned on and cutting wood the voltage dropped to 200 volts. Perfect! So three things you always have to consider. The amperage draw of the equipment, the length of the wire from the source, and the size of the wire. All my circuits I installed had to be a number 10awg on a 20 amp breaker, which is legal, just to make up for the voltage drop. And of course you aren't supposed to load a 20 amp circuit to 20 amps. You are limited to 80% or 16 amps. So on runs less than 100 ft I could drop down in size to 12awg and not be out of spec on voltage drop. So most equipment will work at the applied voltage of 120 volts + or - 5% with no problem. So the range is 114 volts to 126 volts. Motors will burn up on lower voltage easier than on the higher voltage. Measure the voltage at your motor when it's under load and try to stay in this range.

[@DanBHo]

Lol "Double-tap the dislike button" Genius.

[@graphguy]

Haha, loved that first clip of the guy touching a live wire.

[@katzmosestools]

Hahahaha

[@JasonW.]

That is Electroboom here on YT, and he does it on purpose so you don't have to 😉

[@jeremyobanion8994]

I rewired my house after I paid for it because someone stole all the copper from it before I picked it up. But I just wanted to double check with someone before I added a new wire for my tig welder. And yeah it's what I was thinking easy as well shooting wire. But I am using 6/2 UF (Underground Feeder - Direct Earth Burial) Cable yeah it's a pain to feed the wire but not the hook up.Good video keep up the fine work. Glad to see someone without stammering all over the place. or the ahhh ummm ahh people that clearly have no clue what they are doing. You sir need to do more videos you should have your own channel with some supports helping you out.

[@soxie1]

I was recently "shocked" to be charged $2,800 to move 5 wall sconce wires about 4 feet to ceiling light octagon boxes. I need a 220 volt outlet for a workshop dust filtration system I'm planning to buy, but I was put off thinking I'd have to pay $500+ for this work. Watching this excellent video, I think I can do this myself. Thanks!

[@robertmitchum2972]

Not a bad job at all. And this coming from a guy with 40+ years in the trade. On thing though! Do not use a 30 amp rated outlet with wire rated for 20 amps. Use the proper gauge wire for the appropriate application... Also as a note........ This is a straight 208/240 volt setup.... NO NEUTRAL! The wiring method for say, a clothes dryer would be slightly different...... As The dryer requires a neutral and a four wire outlet, Two hotlegs a neutral and a ground.......

[@katzmosestools]

Thanks bud!

[@jamesnorris9779]

To add to it, I'd get myself un Ugly book before doing anything to take the guess work out of things. Not all local codes match NEC but, for the most part they do but don't count on it. One fire marshal visit can shut your commercial enterprise down. I worked on the Alabama power remod in Celera, AL and just from a practical, Electrician standpoint, it's always better to ensure you're work is up to code (strapping from both the panel board & along your EMT/MC) because if anything ever goes sideways and an insurance company can prove it's not up to local code, guess what? They ain't payin'...usually, NEC will work though.

[@SimplyTHC]

What 208/240? Please explain. I'm not an electrician but wanna understand

[@izaacridler9234]

SimplyTHC 208volt here in canada is the 3phase power generally in commercial buildings. Where as 240 is both hots present on a single phase residential service.

[@SimplyTHC]

@@izaacridler9234 thank you for the answer sir!

[@julianpiper240]

All round quite good work and reasonable testing. In Australia, the work you completely likely would be marked as defective for a couple of reasons (I have no idea what the laws and standards are in the US, please don’t hurt me!) 1) excessive copper exposed near terminating screws on outlets. Simple thing to fix, shorten the length of copper that is being fixed to the outlet, partly for safety and partly for the perfectionist in me. 2) Wire size. Wiring for fixed electrical outlets in Australia should be wired in no less than 2.5 square millimetres (10Ga). Rated to carry over 20A in conduit. 3) (testing) I personally check continuity from earth to earth on each outlet and make sure all is good. A proper test device will provide you with conductor impedance too and make sure there are no issues with the cabling. Other than those, excellent job! Again, i don’t know the legalities of unlicensed electrical work in the US/Canada but in australia it is an offence to undertake electrical work without the proper license or permit. Here we have very strict standards that protect us from electric shock and dodgy work completed by under qualified persons. Another difference is the lack of RCD protection on power circuits (GFCI). In Australia it is mandatory to fit RCD protection to all power and lighting circuits, and these days it must be fitted to almost all other circuits too. (Air con, hot water systems, electric stoves/ovens etc.)

[@davidpetruzzi4173]

Julian Curmi thanks for the info. I’m no electrician but am always interested in learning. What is the necessity of GFCI outlets if your system is properly grounded and it’s not a wet scenario? Also, would something like a welder constantly trip the GFCI? Thanks

[@MD-en3zm]

In the US, fixed electrical outlets are most often wired, in residential settings, as either 14Ga (for 15 amp breakers) or 12Ga (for 20 amp breakers). This is regardless of whether it’s 120V or 240V. 10Ga is used for 30A circuits, which you generally will not find except for 240V circuits for special purposes (e.g. dryer, oven, shop tools, etc.). No one here would use 10Ga for anything under 20A and under except (maybe?) in a very long run.

[@lunchlady2023]

I tried wiring something like that once but my x wouldn’t sit in the chair.

[@billymadison8036]

LMFAO

[@magnodvd1971]

Always remember to hit your x in the head with a baseball bat in the head first 🤣

[@AngelRamirez-fd2yi]

Man do the guy a break.... But that was really fucken funny

[@sergeeveraers]

🤣🤣

[@ffjsb]

ALWAYS make sure the sponge is wet...

[@apaulothegreat1581]

I don't want to hear no drama negative thinking great video buddy now I'm back in Contour with the whole wide universe and my little shed project

[@Michael-hg2sq]

I've always done my electrical work. Thanks, Jonathan. I enjoyed the video.

[@brunoalmeida7156]

After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans kzbin.infoUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!

[@larrybud]

Couple of things I would add to this, as installing a breaker is about as easy as it gets (this coming from a DIYer): 1) You need to know the amperage required for the item you plan on using, buy the correct gauge wire to handle that amperage as well as the correct outlet. The breaker cannot handle MORE amps than the wire and outlet. You can always use larger wire and/or outlet than required. 2) When buying the electrical box for the outlet do yourself a favor and get one larger (physically) than you need. While you CAN get a single gang box, it is a major PITA to try to bend and hook up 8 gauge wire in those things, (use 8 ga for 50 amp).

[@JoshuaSalajan]

6amg for 50 no?

[@robertpost1807]

It is actually a 120/208 3ø Y system on the panel he is working in. Not bad advice. You should have tested between the phases to confirm the voltage for the equipment you are powering.

[@daveyfrost7114]

I'm glad someone said it. It will work, but how long will his machines last with the increase in current draw?

[@KingRatt]

He told you he tested the incoming voltage before he disconnected the panel.

[@super_slo]

I think what Robert Post it's saying is that even though the individual phases are 120 to ground/neutral, there's only 208 volts between the legs (even though Jonathon was talking about wiring a 240 volt receptacle). I know with my 240v single phase welder, I have to change an internal connection to make it compatible with 208v (per the manual, to achieve its rated output). I've seen motors explicitly rated for 208, and I've seen them with no mention. Point is, for the same power - 208 requires more amps, and running it under-voltage will decrease the life of the equipment (maybe less important for a motor, but any control electronics/computers will NOT like being used continually in an under-voltage state). And Jonathon did not show or mention this consideration even though he did touch on the fact that his setup is 3 phase. Anyway, good job pointing that out. I've recently been trying to wrap my head around 3 phase as dad's shop has added some 3 phase equipment. It's not exactly a linear extension of single phase, lol. And trying to understand delta vs Y makes my brain hurt. 🤯😳🤣🤣

[@robertpost1807]

Super SLo This is very true. If where Delta then it would be true 240v with 120v to ground/neutral to say A phase and C phase and 1.732 x 120v or about 208v to ground on the B phase or high leg. I always encourage the customer to get a compressor or similar appliance 3ø to get the best efficiency from the appliance and use the highest voltage that they have available(480/277)(208/120)(240/120) all 3ø

[@888mikeedadofallsorts3]

Ok so I have a piece of equip says 220V/3 Phase and panel i tested phase to phase 240v but then phase to neutral I get A/120 B/120 C208 how do I connect my device 3wires hot n ground or do I connect 2wires n ground??? I not understanding how u get 240 2wires hot or 240 3wires hot n still have 240V either or??

[@robertgiltner2144]

Hands down this is such an awesome and great video. Easy to follow and so good! I’m about to expand my garage shop tools and adding 220v was the first step I had to conquer...now I can do it safely and you’re right, it looks super easy! Thank you!!

[@katzmosestools]

Thanks bud!

[@tysonharper5005]

Hey Jonathan, looks good, get those boxes grounded! Just a heads up, this is a three phase source, so the phases are not opposing 120V sinewaves but rather each one is shift by 120 degrees. So when you measure between any two 120V phases, you get 208V not 220 or 240V like you would in a house that has a single phase. You can take your red and black probes across the two phase and get 208V and 120V to neutral. Most appliances and/or tools should work over the 208V to 240V range but make sure you check the voltage rating on the tools to ensure you are going to undervoltage equipment if its only meant for 220-240V.

[@stompylee]

Ty is was great. I’m still going to do some more research because it’s my home but I’m not as scared now because this was easier than the breaker for my washer and I just did that with power on. I live dangerously and with great gloves and equipment.

[@davidkirby3667]

Your phase to phase voltage is 208 because your working with three phase panel. Some equipment may not like 208 and will require a boost transformer to raise the voltage to 240 volts.

[@johndavies2949]

How true! Because so much stuff is made in China. I had a compressor motor from China with a name plate of 230 v 1phase. The shop only had 208 3 phase. What to do? If I connected to the 208 3 phase the voltage would be too low and under load the compressor could burn up. This compressor was single phase, therefore requiring only 2 of the 3 power legs. So I dif some calculations and got some transformer catalogs and found a buck boost single phase transformer that I used to boost the 208 v to 240 v. Although 240 is higher than the motor name plate of 230 volt it is less than a 10,% increase. Most motors will run at plus or minus 1O%. Going the other way and subtracting 10% from the nameplate of 230v equals 207v. Could burn up. Funny thing though. When I wired in the buck boost xfmr and started motor the voltage at the motor under load was 233v. Perfect! So pay attention to those name plate ratings specifically on crap from China.

[@polerin]

We did something similar when doing the reno on my dad's home, but didn't do the final hookups. We ran all the romex, hooked up the outlets, etc etc etc. Had an electrician come in to do an inspection and hook it up to the breaker box. Middle ground I guess.

[@ticklesdust]

yeah this is fairly common. the hard part is running the wire and the dangerous part is hooking to the braker.

[@megostop9650]

You are lucky because many electricians will not continue work someone else has started.

[@tysmith7646]

Finally, a really good, straight forward video. Many thanks

[@brentferguson442]

THANK YOU! "One per box" - Can't tell you how many of these video's I've seen where the user puts a saw on one outlet, vac on another, planer on a third, and welder on a fourth - all running to the same 220 60 amp breaker. That wire's going to get hot, burn thru it's insulation, and melt the pvc conduit to slag before the breaker trips! (They also never seem to mention wire gauge vs length of run considerations.) Pappy would have said it like this: 'boy, if yer gonna run it that fur, yer gonna need thicker ware'.

[@jkitchens71]

I would love to know why there is 600ish dislikes??? Why...he is not a licensed electrician? This channel is full of everyone doing things themselves. What is it in this video he shows you that is completely wrong? Great video!

[@troyclark6349]

Can't imagine anyone not finding this video extremely helpful, well done! Thank you for the clear explanation, your videos are dynamite!

[@lizdonovan6024]

I don't know what's true for your space, but I've been told that my insurance company won't cover fire damage if they find out that unlicensed electrical work has been done to my house. For that reason alone I'd rather pay to have someone legit to do the work. But I do appreciate your video, I like to have a rough idea of what tradespeople do so I can talk to them without feeling like an idget.

[@katzmosestools]

In California at least you can do it as "owner builder" as long as it passes inspection

[@anthonyboudreaux3675]

Most "electricians" are not licensed they work under one who is and probably won't ever step foot on a job site. I work for a special systems contractor as subs for electrical contractors for all electronics in comercial buildings. The only time the licensed person is on site is during production meetings. Just a personal observation.

[@AppalachianLife]

Not sure where you live or who "told" you that your insurance company won't cover you but I've built 2 houses I've lived in and wired both. I did everything to code and had them inspected. My insurance company had no issues covering me. The key is to get the permit and get it inspected.

[@graphguy]

That is 100% true any state.

[@graphguy]

@See the Light That would render you insurance less. There is not one insurance company that will cover you if you did the electrical yourself, without a permit and a fire started destroying your home due to unqualified installation according to code.

[@papasmurf4009]

Just wanted to sign in and say thanks. Great tutorial. I've screwed that up so many times in the past. LOL Now I'll get it right. Kee4p up the good posts.

[@garyheaton4791]

I know I'm probably a little nuts and wrong as well..but I just run 10 gauge wire for anything I am working on. The cost is not that much more..but that heavy ass wire does add some extra labor to the job!! Thank for the video bro..looks good! 😁👌

[@idratherfly2000]

Unlicensed Electrician here... I think you did a great job!

[@jrslawnserv6000]

Gotta love these comments from the KZbin “PROS” giving you 💩... you did a great job man and explained yourself perfectly.

[@samj2000]

Yeah it was a good video, but it’s wrong and dangerous. You wouldn’t let this guy do your dental work would you, but your happy to wire your own house wrong and risk burning your family one night or burning your house down and not even starting with the lack of insurance due to under code installation.

[@HWCapps]

Thank you, now I can Wire my 2 post Car Lift You confirmed what I planned to do .

[@Jmunoz1675]

Electrician- He took our Jarbs! Me- Thank you Sir

[@justinmckibben4534]

Nope lol good luck to anyone attempting though

[@A6Legit]

😂

[@yanstev]

Most residential has split phase AC, versus three phase. Installation of 220 breaker into the panel is pretty much the same, but the box will only have two lines, L1 and L2, that will have 120 volts AC. Also, it is a good idea to check voltage at the plug, once everything is put back together, prior to plugging stuff in.

[@josephperignat7374]

Be sure to read and understand the bus bar diagram on the inside of the service panel. Fully understand which lugs go to which bus bar. Do not assume that each lug on one side of the panel alternates one by one to either side of the bus bar. In my service panel, they alternate every other two. I don't know if I've made sense, but carefully read the bus bar diagram and don't assume when doing 240 volt breakers.

[@usmarinekenny]

I would have to say that since all legs to ground are 120 volts it’s a wye connection, because if it were a delta the b leg to ground would be 208, and with that said since it is 3 phase power each phase to ground via black to ground, red to ground, and blue to ground is 120 volts, but from phase to phase via black to red, black to blue, or red to blue you most certainly have 208 volts instead of 240 because it adds up vectorially because of the 120 degree phase shift of each leg. Because single phase for normal residential power comes from one leg on the power line and stepped down which I why you only have two lines in residential neighborhoods, a hot leg and a grounded neutral; where as where three phases are used for three phase power like commercial, and industrial installs which is what I work with has all three phases and a grounded neutral and you will have three different single phase transformers tied together for you stepped down 3 phase power which is 277/480 (brown, orange, yellow, grey) wye connection, 480 (brown, orange, yellow) delta, 120/208 (black, red, blue, white) wye connection, and there is a 120/240 volt center tapped delta which is where the high leg comes in where the b phase had to be marked orange. So two of the phases would be 120 volts to ground and the other would be 208, but you would be able to get 240 out of two phases. In three phase power each leg is 120 degrees out of phase to even the power throughout the three phases. And then of course your normal residential 120/240 volts or split phase as it is called sometimes where it takes one phase and splits it into to voltages which is why you see one transformer at each house. In a single transformer the power is 180 degrees out of phase to even it out since its two phases instead of three it is even. So this is why you couldn’t possibly have 240 volts on that receptacle. It would be 208 because of the phase shift of three phase. Just a bit of info thrown your way. Take your multimeter and check it from phase to phase (hot to hot) and see what the voltage is. Most motors have a 10% variation plus or minus it’s rated voltage either 115 volts or 230 volts to withstand our nominal voltage which comes in at 240 volts or 120 volts. In your case the your motor is rated at 230 volts so 10% of that is 23 volts plus or minus from the 230 volts, so on the low end 207 volts it will run at which your voltage is 208 so your motor will run, but the torque of the motor will be reduced some around 20% or so. But your multimeter will tell the voltage though.

[@katzmosestools]

Thanks for the knowledge bud!

[@usmarinekenny]

Anytime bro.

[@taylorlightfoot]

If you're in San Francisco, CA the 208v high leg is marked with purple instead of orange. Not sure why, but that's what they do.

[@usmarinekenny]

Taylor Yeah, it’s in the ugly’s book as a high leg marker also. Not sure why and never saw it done at least here in Florida, but I have heard of it though.

[@BrandonGrahamForge]

Great explanation. Thanks.

[@funstuff9153]

Just something I would add is to ground all boxes that have terminations or joints in them. That would be up to code and safer

[@HalProctor]

Loved the "Lock out, Tag out" process! hehehe

[@joewhitney4097]

Well done, simple, to the point on the subject and done safely but with the supply so far away I would have added at least the date and time the note was placed to avoid someone thinking it was old. Thanks, great video.

[@SanFranciscoFatboy]

are u kiddin me? i give u thunbs up up up........ found this right b4 we went to buy our parts...220 is so much better, like in europe.... .. i have had sub panels made for me w/ a mix... like 3 220's and a single 110 outlet off the same box.... thank u for ur videos sir :) i am now a subcriber

[@Spitzrockz]

220v or as we germans say, everyday voltage

[@KevinCoop1]

Spitzrockz except it wasn't 220 volts! It was 208 volts! So not the same as in Germany.

[@Marcel_Germann]

@@KevinCoop1 220V WAS the mains voltage in Germany until 1986 in West-Germany and 1990 in East-Germany. Since then it is 230V with a tolerance of +/-10%, meaning that appliances rated for 230V must work in the range between 207 and 253V. And the difference is that the 230V are against ground, the 208 and 240V are between the lines on the american system. Here you'll get 400V between the lines. In a three-phase system the voltage between the lines is the voltage of a single line (measured against ground or neutral) multiplied with the squareroot of 3. The nice thing in a three-phase system is that you don't require a big fat capacitor to run a motor which will cost you round about 30% of the power and torque of the motor.

[@MD-en3zm]

How many amps does a typical household 220/240V circuit carry in Germany?

[@juusolaukkanen710]

@@MD-en3zm incoming cables can hold at least 60A, but main fuses at the average house in europe is 25A.

[@MD-en3zm]

@Jusso Laukkanen - Wow, that’s not much power. My main breaker here in the US is 200A 240V. How can you do woodworking with a total of 25A / 240V?

[@jerrywhite4497]

My dad was an electrician........he told me once that "A plumber is nothing but an electrician with his brains knocked out."

[@Ryan-hr9hw]

Screenshot and shared to plumber friend.

[@avrumisolaimani8546]

my dad was a plumber he once told me an electrician is nothing but a plumber with no skill

[@bonnietech5433]

Thanks for sharing knowledge, electricians hate that. You just saved me $300.

[@ahdam82]

It really is that easy. When I see people on KZbin complaining about their breakers popping I frequently wonder why don’t they just run some 12 gauge wire and 20 amp breakers. A good rule of some is never used 14 gauge wire with 15 amp breakers. Always bump it up to 12 gauge wire and 20 amp breakers especially if you’re running Tools.

[@jayjaghla7310]

There is nothing wrong with using 14ga/15amp breaker. Wire is expensive. A 15amp circuit is typically used for a lighting circuit. Regular outlets, use 12ga/20amp.

[@ahdam82]

@ that is bad advice if you’re running any kind of power tool anything of significant power you need at the very least a 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire. This is why everybody pops their breaker because they’re only running a 15 amp breaker with 14 gauge wire. Telling people to run a 15 amp breaker is essentially telling them to have problems. You’ll be running back-and-forth here panel every time you breaker pops. And that’s right things are expensive so it’s gonna cost you to do it right. But like they saying if you’re not gonna do it right don’t do it at all

[@jayjaghla7310]

I didn’t say to use 15amp for a tool. I said 15amp is a lighting circuit. My point was, you don’t wire your garage all with 20amp circuits, but a combination of 20 for tools and 15 for lights.

[@ahdam82]

@ keep those 15 amp breakers out of the shop. If you’re gonna wire it up, do it right. The second you run anything of significant power pop there goes your breaker. We’re talking about a shop here not a living room.

[@jayjaghla7310]

Yeah cause everyone is plugging router tables into the outlet on the ceiling with their LED overhead light. Good advice

[@jackoshea687]

Master electrician here,you would have done good on any of my jobs,you did mention about the outlet 20 amp or 30 amp doesn’t matter ,I would have added that if you did require a 30 amp circuit that you would have to use 10 gauge wire instead of # 12.Nice work on the panel wiring .

[@katzmosestools]

Thank you my friend. It was inspected by both the city and my buddy who is an electrician. Passed. Funny how many arm chair quarterbacks freak out over this subject

[@Reynaga2012]

I just wired a 240 v outlet for my shop heater .. easy once you see how it’s done 👍..

[@shootstraight91]

breaker lockout is a good investment only about 15 bucks for a safe job. Cheers.

[@davetom1743]

You mean a lock?

[@RichardFallstich]

@@davetom1743 No, he means lockout. It's so someone doesn't come along later, while you may be away from the panel, and turn breaker back on. www.bradyid.com/en-us/category/Fuse-Lockouts-and-Blockouts/200050512?cid=ppc_12811_bid&camp=ppc-us-Nonbrand-google.com-Search-Lockout-Breaker_Lockout-breaker%20lockout&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2IrmBRCJARIsAJZDdxDIcA987n5Dfu3G0ukkSUVPKRE3YqGdC3Zeq1qPe8NaEyghDqwlP14aAlgbEALw_wcB

[@frank_texas7400]

Agreed but I paid over 300 for a set lol

[@glenncountry]

I like the complete simple instruction. Some guy draw their videos out with a bunch of nonsense!

[@robertcommer371]

I'm not a licensed electrician, but I thoroughly enjoyed this video.

[@danielorozco4264]

I just watched your video and solved my curiosity on 240VAC residential. Good Job, fearless man!

[@IMDYT420]

I love how he showed electroboom 🤣

[@RobertLeBlancPhoto]

Awesome video bro. My safety auditor would have an aneurysm over your LOTO procedures. I love it! :)

[@thesprtn2346]

more like what loto

[@rdl5297]

I love his LOTO technique.

[@hopeforthefuturesg]

Man best explanation out of any videos I've seen..gotta do this for a dryer install and you made it so clear. Screw paying for an electrician! As long as you careful and somewhat smart theres no need!

[@jason8507]

Holy s*** I didn't realize it was so easy. I'm definitely not electrician but I've definitely done my fair amount of home renovation, in my own home of course. I was just looking at a 220 air compressor I will be doing the electrical myself and saving the 500 bucks

[@danielgeng2306]

Electrician here, I was gonna roast ya but then you said too roast you and now I can’t ! Lol hit me up on FB if you need tech advice...

[@stevehenson7183]

to

[@reforzar]

I like to put the wire under the other side of the screw so that when you tighten to screw on the breaker it pulls it in. #notaprotip

[@RadDadisRad]

Doesn’t matter when it’s under a saddle clamp.

[@johnrogerssr.7060]

The wire clamp plate on a breaker is square so it doesn't rotate.

[@derekparent752]

Electrician here. Good job and only a few pointers. -Ground wire must be bonded to receptacle and box it is in, reason being if your conduit comes apart or you remove the ground from the other box you could leave that plug ungrounded. -3 phase power supplies normally test out at 208 volts not 220 and sometimes it can read 115v and not 120v, this is due to the taps on the Transformer feeding the panel, it gives electricians the option to increase or decrease the voltage if the street supply is high or low. -Your conduit clip is to far away from the box, (that is just me being picky 👌) -In Canada any work being done that is 220 or higher requires a permit, that would include changing a stove plug. - But this one is serious, you worked on a live panel, you did not have any PPE on, nothing! As by law you are required to have PPE Category 1: Minimum Arc Rating 4 cal/cm2. Required Clothing: Long Sleeve Shirt (or Jacket) and Pants or AR Coverall with minimum arc rating of 4 cal/cm2 Required Face and Head Protection: Face Shield (with “wrap around” guarding…i.e balaclava) or Arc Flash Suit Hood Required Hand Protection: Heavy-Duty Leather Gloves over Class 00 insulated gloves. Additional PPE: Hard Hat, Eye Protection (Glasses, Goggles), Hearing Protection Now I know that seems like a lot but I watched you remove the metal tabs off the panel cover...in front of a live 3 Phase panel you were jiggling around a giant piece of metal. Do me a favour and search up polyphase explosions, for a small explanation I will just say that if you touch all 3 phases the inside of the panel would evaporate and a billion pieces of breaker bits would be lodged in your face. A 10-40’ ball of flame would envelope the panel area and you would end up in a different location also. ( much more explosive than a normal house panel.....much!) So may I suggest you do not show videos of you working on Live electrical panels for the DIY group as this is illegal and you could still be fined for your own work, Be safe and remember, everyone has confidence until after the accident. Regards

[@sku32956]

folks if the outlet box is plastic no need ground the box it self . Good video easy to understand .

[@garygardino8453]

Good job Michael I'm going to go in my shop and put 220 in tomorrow I just wanted to refresher to make sure I'm going to do this right okay thanks a lot again bye