From Impossible to Easy: Advanced Laser Wood Inlay Made Easy

[@SP-ny1fk]

Laser Dave, Laser Dave, Crafts with skill so bold and brave. Inlays shine, wood designs, Teaching us his crafty lines. Look out! Here comes the Laser Dave!

[@TrotecLaser]

You are too kind, LOVE IT!! -- Laser Dave

[@BaneWilliams]

This is actually a damn great tutorial. Trotec out there providing the heavy lifting by showing cool things you can do.

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! Happy to do the "Heavy Lifting" 😁

[@TheChzoronzon]

I don't even own a laser... but I appreciate greatly your generosity and the clarity of the tutorial Plus the results are indeed stunning... people like you is what makes YT a treasure cove, thanks mate

[@TrotecLaser]

Awesome! You are too kind, Thank you! 😊

[@gga3053]

This is insanely clever! Thank you so much for sharing this technique so openly. I simply can not wait to see what you and the other brilliant minds there come up with next!

[@TrotecLaser]

You are so welcome!

[@jankykerle9256]

There's so much value in these videos. Thank you, Dave!

[@TrotecLaser]

Glad you like them!

[@gs2awards]

Absolutely love this laser hack!!! We can’t wait to see what everyone makes with this new technique!

[@TrotecLaser]

I could not agree more, and I can't wait to see how this changes the woodworking and laser industry!

[@MandSWoodworks]

Dave, I know you create these videos with the primary reason to benefit your customers, but I hope that you realize how much you help the entire laser engraving/cutting community. I own a different brand laser, but have used some of your previous methods on projects and they are incredible! Thank you for your efforts! With that, I find myself having to "re-engineer" some of the settings you recommend for your Ruby software to work with my current software, and understandably so. Would you mind sharing what Image Mode was used for this? Since there are no gradients in these images, would you use "Threshold" to get the desired results on the inlay plug or would you recommend something different? Again, thank you for sharing. Subscribed!

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! I am happy that you like my videos; you are very welcome! If you have an image that is not a pure black-and-white image, then "Threshold" will not be enough; most graphic software has a method to convert any image to a true 1-bit or pure black-and-white image, which will be necessary for this process to work. You can use Threshold, but that does not guarantee no grey tones in the graphic; once you have a pure black graphic image, duplicate it, then invert and mirror for the veneer engraving in this example. - Laser Dave

[@MandSWoodworks]

@@TrotecLaser I understand everything you just mentioned. The test images you offered have no grey areas and appear to be solid black and solid white. I was asking specifically what image mode you used for those to duplicate the project in your video. Thank you for the fast response!

[@TrotecLaser]

Okay, I got it. I did not use an "Image mode." Trotec machines can turn the image mode off or to "None," but if you do not have that, then a "Black and white" image mode will work, or even a 3D or relief mode will also work. If you have a pure black-and-white image, it should not matter. Most laser brands will see it as black and white and not apply a dither pattern, but I cannot be sure based on what brand you use. To be sure, test some scrap and see if the laser produces any patterns that should not be there before you attempt the inlay.

[@Batendor]

Gosh the Ideas that are popping up in my mind using this process! Thank you very much for sharing.

[@TrotecLaser]

You are so welcome!

[@basikstuff]

Trying this out today. The aluminum tape as a transfer sheet is genius!

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you, have fun!

[@congruewoodworks1474]

Bravo!! I love the excitement in your voice. Dude, Amazing innovation and dang good visual demonstration on your laser's capability. If I could ask what were some of the failures to get to this point? What didn't work before it did, was

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you; so happy you like the video. The only real issues I ran into was that I over-sanded some of the first samples, losing detail, and found that some species of wood, when inlayed, would bleed the color of the wood when sanding, making it a bit more complicated. - Laser Dave

[@storytellerHD]

Oh man. I’m floored Dave. This is outstanding!! Thank you for sharing this technique. It’s gonna take a few tries for us to get it right. Those exotic woods are gonna get pricey. Question. Will the parallax effect from the overhead camera cause your two subjects to be out of true or alignment for this kind of precision? I could understand if placing them in direct center below the camera improves accuracy however the further away from the center of the bed, the more problematic this may become. Especially so when running batches. We’ll plan this out, pick up some supplies and try a few runs. It’ll take some practice. The foil bit is insightful. Not understanding why you don’t get reflections anywhere in this process. This is really cool…your vids are always top notch and keeps us engaged.

[@TrotecLaser]

I use the camera in the center because it is better for filming, and there is a bit more distortion when used at the edges. For better alignment, I use the red pointer method.kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5jHeoqCgchqgNksi=deDHyePIVqiN3f4m

[@rogeravedon862]

Brilliant contribution! Would you also provide a link or links for the cutting surface and the roll holder both seen at the 3:00 minute mark? Thanks!

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! Here is the link to the tape roller: a.co/d/2Qno682 and the cutting mat: a.co/d/aq9smAA

[@skydivinginc6588]

Thank you for sharing your process behind these inspiring creations! You've given the community so many techniques and ideas. I tried this on the xTool P2 55w CO2 laser and it worked flawlessly for a script inlay. Any idea when you might release the abalone shell inlay video? I'm curious how the process differs with that material and have a project in mind for it already!

[@TrotecLaser]

You are welcome; the Mother of Pearl video is scheduled for later this year. Stay tuned!- Laser Dave

[@Grey646]

@skydivinginc6588 Can you share the settings you used with the P2? I know it's the Trotec channel but that would be very helpful. Thank you!

[@thomasleftwite]

Wow, this technique really stimulates the imagination!

[@TrotecLaser]

I know, right!!! have fun with it; I would love to hear about what you create!

[@chitowntexan]

The projects are absolutely beautiful.

[@TrotecLaser]

You are so kind, Thank you ☺️

[@spider2544]

Dope AF dude that aluminum backing move was next level

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you!

[@ginacarpenter1156]

Stunning!

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@djoyce777]

Would this technique work for a diode laser?

[@TrotecLaser]

This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure. - Laser Dave

[@aislinciarcia2846]

Loved the video. I am wondering if this process would work on a diode laser. I have a 40w.

[@TrotecLaser]

This process should work with any laser that will produce depth into the woods, and a diode laser should have no issues doing this.

[@kevinrich4637]

This is crazy good! Thank you for sharing! New subscriber

[@TrotecLaser]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@sergelombardot7459]

Merci pour ce magnifique tuto qui donne envie de commencer dès aujourd'hui. Je suis tellement curieux de faire mes essais et voir le résultat. c'est bluffant sur la vidéo. Vite commander de l'alu et du plaquage et se mettre au dessin.

[@Graeme758]

Like so many 'inventions' this is obvious once someone discovers it. Amazing innovation.

[@mtz3843]

im getting a wecreat laser, i truely hope this works with it, really nice vid.

[@TrotecLaser]

I hope so too!

[@QuotidianStupidity]

Wow, what an absolute legend

[@TrotecLaser]

Wow, Thank you, you are too kind! -- Laser Dave

[@JerryGryz]

Thank you very much I have 22W diode laser. Never used before. So it’s interesting adventure for me. Anyway, thanks for your reply and have a super nice day Cheers

[@ИгорьИгорь-б8ч]

Thank you. Excellent technology for fine detailing.

[@TrotecLaser]

Glad it was helpful!

[@tyrelschalamon8121]

Love this and can't wait to try it. it's been on my list to try for a while now. I have 2 questions for you or anyone who has been using this method. 1. Wood grain direction. Any thoughts on if the direction makes a difference? ie. same for base wood and veneer or if a different orientation would be better/worse 2. For the veneer, does it matter which side you stick to the foil tape? I would think the 'top' would be cleaner so it should be stuck to the foil so it will be up in the final product. thoughts?

[@TrotecLaser]

Grain direction significantly impacts the final look, so use your judgment based on colors, patterns, and design. With experience, you’ll identify what works best. I recommend adhering the cleanest veneer side to the foil, as this will be visible in the finished inlay. If imperfections exist, keep that side facing up to avoid showcasing them. - Laser Dave

[@hectorflores6666]

Great info!! How deep was the initial engraving ( wood and veneer)????????

[@TrotecLaser]

This varied based on the species of wood used. Most of the veneer used was a traditional thickness of around 0.0010 to 0.015", and I engraved the base wood to about that same depth with some initial testing. Measure the thickness of the veneer you buy, then do an engraving test to make sure that the engraving matches that thickness.

[@hectorflores6666]

@@TrotecLaser Dave Thanks. I also download the files!!! Thank you so much. Question do I need to mirror the 'neg' file? or is ready to engrave on the veneer?

[@hectorflores6666]

@@TrotecLaser Dave, I have another question. The positive should be run on 'fill' correct? when I opened your file it was on 'line'

[@hectorflores6666]

@@TrotecLaser Hi Dave me back again. I use lighBurn, when I import your file into the program, it shows a huge # of lines. The preview makes no sense!

[@TrotecLaser]

I am not familiar with Lightburn. The main file is just a black-and-white image. Then, you take that same image and mirror and Invert it so that it is a perfect inverted and mirrored image of the original to engrave on the foil backed veneer. If you are unsure how to do this in Lightburn, then you will need to seek help from users of lighburn or from the company that makes it. Mirroring and inverting are common features that all graphic software can do. - Laser Dave

[@PitchBlackCat]

Stunning results! I tried it out, and it works like a charm! There's some minor issues that I'll have to calibrate for, for example, I have a little space around the veneer, so I'll probably have to calibrate the kerf width some more. Also, my aluminum tape is so sticky that it's prone to tear small pieces of veneer apart when I remove it after the glue up, so for anyone giving this a try, maybe offbrand aluminum tape is better than the stickier brand stuff.

[@TrotecLaser]

That is outstanding to hear! If you are having some kerf issues, then it may be your laser parameters; overpowering can cause some loss of detail or a "Loose Kerf." Keep tinkering; I am sure you will find the best configuration based on your laser system and the materials you use. Took me a few tries the first time- Laser Dave

[@JerryGryz]

Hi Dave, would this method work with Diode laser ? Thanks

[@TrotecLaser]

This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure; start out small and try, and let me know! -Laser Dave

[@buddyturner]

Great Techniques and thanks for sharing!!! How thick is the veneer you are using? Also, when I double burn the veneer the shown foil is very resinous, have you try to clean it as well before gluing? Does it loosen the saved parts of the veneer inlays? I am going to try slowing the speed down on the veneer engraving to see if I can make it through to the foil on first attempt to eliminate more of the resin.. Also what do you think if one uses an 1 1/2" lens? Thanks again and keep raising the bar!!!!

[@TrotecLaser]

Yes, it is possible to clean it, and It did not loosen the parts in my tests, but because this is the back side you are seeing, cleaning the veneer was found unnecessary as the engraved side will not be seen. No reflection issues were present when processing the aluminum because it is perfectly flat, causing any reflection to only reflect back into the laser tube, making it harmless. I am using standard traditional veneer thicknesses around 0.015 -0.024". The 1.5" lens will allow for even better detail in this video! Because most have a 2.0" lens, that is the one I decided to showcase in the video, but you are correct that a 1.5"lens is a great option.

[@АлексейБомко-р4ф]

It seems to me that you are not from this planet. You are a wizard. It is incredibly beautiful!!!!

[@Luca_s_Lab]

You deserve a like for sure!

[@TrotecLaser]

I appreciate that! - Laser Dave

[@Jim_One-wl4ke]

Awesome technique 👍. Never thought of this inverted idea using ahesive Al tape. Thanks for showing this skill ❤

[@TrotecLaser]

You are very welcome!

[@clarkstevens2711]

Hey that's a great idea there Dave the aluminum won't engrave away and you can clean it up works on the same Principle as doing inlays with a CNC router

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! But unlike CNC, so much more detail is possible using lasers!

[@xlhlaser8734]

Hi,Dave,The detail of the laser engraving is especially stunning. What I would like to ask is: what is the finest line thickness in the file so that the lines are preserved after laser engraving.

[@TrotecLaser]

This will depend on a few things, such as what lens is being used and the material or wood species being later processed, as this can vary based on how each material can handle laser heat in addition to the laser parameters and the engraving resolution all factor into pushing this limit. I find that engraving is the easy part; it is the reverse engraving of the foil of the veneer that can be an issue, and the thinnest line that I was able to achieve using very tight grain wood (best case scenario) was a minimum line weight of 0.005" with a 2.0" lens kit and 0.003" with a 1.5" lens kit- Laser Dave

[@kimvellore4134]

This is pretty cool and amazing, thanks for sharing.

[@TrotecLaser]

Glad you liked it!

[@DeanRockne]

Such a smart idea to use alu tape to recreate the process typically done with vinyl cutters.

[@rogeravedon862]

Thanks again for such an exciting new technique. My first attempt using plywood failed because the glued veneer pulled away with the aluminum tape. I repeated the steps with hardwood and it worked perfectly. I don't know if the plywood I used was MDF core but I'm guessing that the engineered core of the plywood was too friable for this technique. Does that seem right? Plywood is desirable for both cost and availability of larger pieces. Any other thoughts?

[@TrotecLaser]

As long as you give the glue time to dry, it should work on plywood. However, I did not attempt this in any plywood. Something I did not mention in the video is that because the aluminum blocks out the air, I found that it caused the glue to take longer than expected to dry on larger surface engravings, which may cause your issue. So, if you are unsure, let it sit overnight before you pull the aluminum to be sure that the glue has cured, I let one example sit over 4 days over the long Fourth of July weekend, and the aluminum still peeled up perfectly. - Laser Dave

[@rogeravedon862]

I’ll try giving it much longer to dry, then. Thanks for being so responsive to questions. Can’t wait to see the mother-of-pearl lesson!

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

'will fit perfectly' (5:40) - what about the laser kerf? And the thickness of glue?

[@TrotecLaser]

The process is engraved positively and negatively, not cut like a traditional inlay, so the laser beam diameter is not a factor. The inverted and positive states compensate for each other, leaving a perfect fit because of a factor called laser divergence; because of this, there is no traditional way to even measure this kerf. The glue is liquid, requiring no visual space, and it dries clear. If I were to assign a "Kerf" for the glue based on what I can see under a high-powered microscope, it would be about 5 microns or 0.000197" at 30x magnification.

[@ColinWatters]

Lightburn can account for the laser kerf. But that might be the limiting factor for small details

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@ColinWatters I think he relies on the cut being conical. But I believe the glue acts as a filler too.

[@davidstevens2577]

@@ColinWatters I think you may be over thinking this, because of the way that this process works, "kerf" is not something that needs to be discussed for this kind of process since there is no cutting, only engraving. Simply engrave the positive into the wood base then engrave the negative/inverted and mirrored version of your graphic into the foil backed veneer and glue them together then peel and sand after the glue dries.

[@nageshsarang_youtube]

Amazing invention of inlay technology

[@EtchWorkz]

Great ideas Dave. Could you use a piece of aluminum foil sprayed with adhesive instead of purchasing an entire roll of 12 inch aluminum tape?

[@TrotecLaser]

This may be possible, but it will depend on the adhesive used; however, I would not recommend it. If the adhesive used is too "Sticky," the veneer will not peel away correctly after the glue has dried, making the final steps far more work, or it will not work at all. If the adhesive used is not "Sticky enough," it will not hold the tiny details correctly before the parts are inlaid together, causing the parts to fall away from the aluminum during the gluing process. This ducting aluminum tape seems perfect based on what it is typically designed for (industrial metal ducting). You can buy much smaller rolls at a much lower price and then use more than one piece on larger sheets of veneer to save on cost. The foil link provided offers many different sizes starting at $18.88 for the 3" wide roll, or you can also pick this material up at most hardware stores. - Laser Dave

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Amazing, i'm wondering how i can do this on a diode laser due to the aluminium.

[@TrotecLaser]

As we do not make or sell a diode laser, you must test this to see if it will work for you.

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

@@TrotecLaser Trying it right now with blue tape instead of aluminium, thanks.

[@olivernovelles8609]

This is absolutely amazing!!! Woooow!! It's the most beautyful work I've seen in a long time... Do you thing it's possible on acrylic? Thank you so much for shearing your knowledge

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! I'm delighted to hear that you're pleased with it. Regarding using acrylic, it should theoretically be compatible; however, sanding could be a bit tricky. That said, it’s definitely worth exploring! I'll conduct a few tests to gauge its performance, though I haven’t tried it just yet. I’ve got some techniques in mind that could make it work, but it may require a bit of experimentation. -- Laser Dave.

[@olivernovelles8609]

@@TrotecLaser Cool... first of all I'll do this, hahahaha... I'll have time to experiments later... 😋

[@testboga5991]

Absolutely stunning!

[@konradhunter1407]

Looks great!

[@DrgnSlyr]

This is brilliant. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you!! ☺️

[@wisdombeyondyears]

Does the laser operation need any compensation due to the kerf of the laser beam or is really as simple as engraving an inverted mirror image?

[@TrotecLaser]

No kerf compensation is needed since this is not cut but engraved; the video shows every step of the process.

[@OG96932]

can this be done with a falcon 2 40w diode lazer and lightburn software

[@TrotecLaser]

I believe this process should be possible. However, I cannot be sure as we are Trotec, and this process was developed on our lasers.

[@8thsinner]

How thin are the lines that can be achieved with this technique? 1/32ndths ..? smaller?

[@TrotecLaser]

You can go much smaller than 1/32 (0.031"). This will depend on your brand of laser, the laser lens you use, and the species and thickness of the wood veneer; with the ideal scenario using the best lens, the best I achieved that was confirmed and measured inlay lines as small as 0.0065."

[@8thsinner]

@@TrotecLaser Wow, Well that gives me some tests to aim for anyway. Guess i'll find out. Jtech 24w is my laser. Thanks

[@7SevenDeuce2]

Really wish Lightburn would have an Invert setting so I could do this on my OmTech

[@rickmccaskill7888]

It does. Just place a box around the design and it will provide you a reverse image file. Good luck.

[@RandomSmith]

out of curiosity, does the laser engrave straight down to create a negative with vertical sides? Is the depth of engraving just a tad smaller than the thickness of the veneer so that it sits almost flush or do they match and thus flush? Someone mentioned divergence, what part does that play? (I don't own a laser cutter)

[@TrotecLaser]

Laser beams are not perfectly straight. They diverge in the shape of an hourglass until they reach the focal point, and because of this, there is a very slight angle only really noticed when cutting thick parts. In this example, that small amount of divergence, when engraved as a positive and negative, fills in any gaps or kerf, and this benefits us by giving a flush finish with this kind of detail.

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

AMAZING!

[@AlbiesProductsOnline]

I suppose if you wanted to you could do a multiple layer process that you could do multiple laser and inlay steps with different colours then end up with a full coloured picture but that would take more hours to do than would be feasible to charge for

[@TrotecLaser]

You are correct! I have actually done this!! After the first inlay is complete, the foil is peeled (before sanding). If you need/want additional colors, place the now inlaid wood sheet back into the laser and engrave it again with a file that engraves a different location, then repeat the process with additional veneer colors. This takes far more time, but the results are breathtaking; I have been working on some "example projects" I will show in future videos. Trying to make a "full-color photo" could work with a Red, Green, and Blue stained veneer by separating any photo into its separate RGB colors, making three files, then converting each to black and white black, and then inlaying them using this method. Still, I am unsure how this would look. - Laser Dave

[@mathewtaylor2007]

amazing work! would work with thin inlay , 0.6mm?

[@TrotecLaser]

This process will work with this thickness with no problem.

[@mathewtaylor2007]

Thankyou! Would you let the tenner sit a little bit proud above the surface when sticking it down?

[@TrotecLaser]

Please Clarify?

[@UserZO5672]

This is AMAZING! Thank you for sharing...I truly appreciate the videos by Laser Dave. #Beast

[@TrotecLaser]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@LukeGeaney]

Very cool, Laser Dave!

[@TrotecLaser]

Happy you enjoyed it! - Laser Dave

[@anovozhilov]

Very interesting technique! Thank you very much! +

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@anovozhilov]

@@TrotecLaser Once again, I want to say a big thank you for the method! Today I tried it on a linden tree - the result is magnificent, the details fit very tightly into each other. In general, you have opened new horizons of creativity for me! Thanks again and good luck! Subscribed

[@mikeanderson4928]

What photo editing software would you recommend - any tips?

[@TrotecLaser]

I used CorelDRAW for the photo conversion shown in the video. I have also done this in Adobe PhotoShop. If you download the CorelDraw files using the video link, the instructions in that photo file show you what settings were used. - Laser Dave

[@13hubi13]

Can we use normal aluminium foil from the kitchen and use double side tape to make that if i dont have the aluminium tape?

[@TrotecLaser]

This will depend on the "Tackiness" of the double-sided tape, I have not tried this, but it should work.

[@prostoistudent]

OMG so awesome and accurate work

[@Chaos_God_of_Fate]

I need to get some vineer wood! I want to try this. I suspect I can do the same thing with thicker woods as well though- I'll start experimenting with what I have. that foil hack was an awesome idea! I've just got a couple diodes- 10/20w- some Day CO2, I'm coming for ya!

[@TrotecLaser]

Awesome, have fun!

[@DRB-Octane]

daNGIT MAN!!! you wizard 🧙‍♂! ima wiz too 🧙‍♂, luv creating new process and finishes!!! and thiz video right here gave me a chubby for a laser machine, now ima gonna have to buy me one... PROBLEM IS... im in brasil.

[@TrotecLaser]

✆ [phone] ✉ [e-mail] 🌎 www.jrlaser.com.br 🖈 Rua Antonio Hulse, Sala B 2860 Bairro: Revoredo CNPJ: 10:209.525/0001-95, Tubarão (SC), BR

[@geobruce1995]

Is there something special needed in the laser cutter to protect the co2 laser from shining onto the reflective aluminium?

[@TrotecLaser]

Rest assured, any excess energy will safely follow the path of the laser beam and will not pose any risk, provided the surface is kept flat. This design ensures that the energy remains controlled, protecting both the equipment and surroundings.

[@geobruce1995]

@TrotecLaser is this the case for all types of co2 lasers, or only this special model

[@TrotecLaser]

While this process should operate similarly on any CO₂ laser, including other brands, we can only officially certify compatibility and performance with Trotec machines.

[@2feetofclay]

Good job laser Dave

[@syntecsmurf]

Why is pricing not shown on the Trotec website?

[@TrotecLaser]

Unlike consumer-grade products, our systems are designed for commercial and industrial applications, requiring a personalized approach to ensure optimal performance for your specific needs. As these are high-end, configurable systems, we recommend working closely with one of our technical sales experts to determine the best solution for your application. Our systems start at $8,500 for the Speedy 50 model and scale upwards depending on configuration.

[@KerryMelfi]

Wow! Yup, that's all I've got, but I'm going to say it again, wow!

[@TrotecLaser]

Wow, thanks!

[@michaelbuchholz2164]

That is great! Does it only cut wood or also brass etc.? 😊

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

I know it does sandwiches really good!😋😁

[@TrotecLaser]

CO2 lasers excel at cutting only "combustible" materials such as wood, plastics, papers, fabrics and leathers, and so much more; they aren’t suited for cutting non-combustible materials like metals, stone, or glass. However, these materials can still be beautifully engraved with precision, allowing for detailed customization and marking without compromising on quality.

[@codarussell7925]

Do you sell a desktop laser capable of this? I don’t have the space for a floor model.

[@TrotecLaser]

Yes, we do; our Speedy 50 or Speedy 100 is perfect for this precision process in a small package at a very affordable price. Could you email me directly, and I will get you a quote. [e-mail]. - Laser Dave

[@LaserGuy62]

Is there a supplier in Canada that sells these wood products.

[@TrotecLaser]

Unfortunately, I do not know of a supplier in Canada for laser-grade exotic woods. Please contact our offices in Canada, and they can help guide you on this. [phone]

[@doug-cdsimontrustee6609]

Does anyone have an idea of how possible this might be with a galvo fiber laser 1064nm? Some woods can be cut with fiber laser, but the precision of the alignment is what I wonder about.

[@DrgnSlyr]

The fact that the laser beam is not perpendicular to the bed of the laser at all points would make this difficult except on very small designs.

[@TrotecLaser]

Most woods cannot be laser processed with the 1064 fiber laser; this application requires the CO2 laser wavelength *(10.6um)to work correctly.

[@doug-cdsimontrustee6609]

@@DrgnSlyr Thank you. I did a visualization and I see what you mean.

[@jimtobias3860]

Would this process work on an XTool P2 Co2 laser??

[@TrotecLaser]

This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure; start out small and try, and let me know! -Laser Dave

[@chrism7067]

@@TrotecLaser the P2 is a 55w C02

[@juar9564]

Doing this process with the P2 atm. Will check in with results

[@daganael]

impressive... do you sell in europe ?

[@TrotecLaser]

We are made in Austria!Contact ✆ [phone] ✉ [e-mail] 🌎 www.troteclaser.com 🖈 Freilinger Strasse 99, Marchtrenk, AT

[@gungfoomon7729]

Incredible!

[@gregorydaines]

Does this work with a diode laser or only with a CO2?

[@TrotecLaser]

Unfortunately, we do not manufacture diode lasers, so we cannot directly confirm their compatibility or performance. To ensure accurate results, I recommend testing the setup or consulting your machine's manufacturer for additional guidance.

[@yoitsgunattack]

yes. but be careful of bouncing the laser around the room due to the reflective nature of the foil.

[@TrotecLaser]

This material is made from polyester, so there are no reflective issues at all

[@erwinkooi6669]

Woah! Can't wait to try this. 🤯 *orders alu tape

[@TrotecLaser]

Hope you like it! Enjoy

[@calisurfer619]

Im having an issue with this technique. When i pull off the foil, it sometimes pulls off some of the inlay. It could be because my veneer is paper backed but even after about 45min of dry time it still happens. Im thinking about trying with non paper backed veneer or maybe even epoxy instead of woodglue

[@dannymiller2123]

Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, it will deactivate the foil adhesive temporarily. Lift up one side and drip it in there, the alcohol will form a meniscus along the peel line. Try peeling back at 180 deg to minimize lifting. Adjust your kerf so the inlay is a tight press fit

[@TrotecLaser]

One thing I forgot to mention in the video is that the foil can block airflow, which may significantly increase curing time. To address this, simply allow more time for curing and consider using a higher-quality glue for better results. - Laser Dave

[@calisurfer619]

@TrotecLaser which glue would you recommend? I'm using titebond interior+exterior

[@TrotecLaser]

The links for all the products used in the video, including the glue, are in the video description.

[@calisurfer619]

Update: The alcohol trick worked really well. I also found that instead of lifting the foil, If it spin it counterclockwise or clockwise and slide it off, the veneer won't come off. The sticky residue however has a bit more opportunity to sink into the grain though so be aware especially if you are inlaying into plywood because you'll have to do a decent amount of sanding

[@ClayFRocker]

What's the theory on why this works better than the old method with tape? I've used that method in the past and it worked great.

[@TrotecLaser]

The tape method was much more complicated and inconsistent. While it did work, any changes in the density of the wood veneer caused the laser to engrave through the tape, compromising stability. Additionally, the tape's lack of rigidity made positioning the veneer harder, and finishing was far more labor-intensive. This new method eliminates all these issues. The aluminum is more rigid, allowing for better alignment; it cannot be engraved by the laser, unlike the tape, which makes alignment and cleanup much faster. As a result, this method improves detail and total process time while improving the fine details, making the updated method far more reliable for consistent production.

[@ClayFRocker]

@@TrotecLaser thank you. Trotec is my endgame machine, but it's properly overkill for a hobby shop. one day!

[@Seeker_of_sense]

Can you use a fiber laser for this?

[@TrotecLaser]

This process will not work with a fiber laser; the fiber laser wavelength will not work with wood.

[@musikmaker19]

@@TrotecLaser What about a 20w diode laser?

[@1-Nice-Guy]

Crazy Cool!

[@Pauly365]

Try using colored uv resin then repeating the first step to remove what you don't want. I'm sure the results would be stunning and be faster.

[@TrotecLaser]

You are correct; that is another option for an inlay-like effect shown in another video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5rIl5yOrbKXe7ssi=bxU2_UHAZUPzqRL). However, UV resin inlay will produce a completely different look. Inlayed natural wood veneer into wood produces a look that cannot be reproduced any other way, and real inlay has a much higher perceived value for not much more time, creating a better ROI. However, you get to choose the effect you want to see!

[@JSR_Design]

Very good. Thank you.

[@TrotecLaser]

Our pleasure!

[@brandonrobinson1603]

That's badass!

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank YOU!!!

[@damzana3650]

Apakah laser diode bisa melakukannya?

[@TrotecLaser]

Yes it can

[@shobley]

"With no gaps" - laser beams do have a kerf... how is this accounted for? One of the most time consuming jobs was determining and accounting for kerf the last time I did inlay.

[@davidstevens2577]

The divergence of the laser beam with a positive and negative engraving with no cutting means there are truly no gaps. The results speak for themselves. Nothing was left out of the process in this video. Give it a try! - Laser Dave

[@BaneWilliams]

I see you'd rather complain on a video than spend an hour trying it yourself.

[@shobley]

@@BaneWilliams I apologize if it came across as complaining. I have struggled with inlay of various types dialing in the right accommodation for the width of the beam. I don't have a Trotec, and was genuinely curious if the software was accounting for the beam width. I can see how inverting the inlay would leverage the 'tapering' of the beam to get a good fit.

[@shobley]

@@davidstevens2577 That makes perfect sense. I don't have a Trotec, so have to build my toolpaths 'manually' using more generic software. I have an idea for a project that might be good for this technique... something I've always had to photoetch with metals since the detail was so high.

[@bobsteinbeiser8870]

@@shobley Kerf is not a factor with a raster engrave!

[@morganmcgary921]

Amazing!

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@yasserebrahim1327]

Thanks

[@TrotecLaser]

You are very welcome!

[@13hubi13]

How to invert it?

[@TrotecLaser]

Inverting an image can vary depending on the software you're using, and I understand that it can be challenging to find the right steps. To assist you effectively, I recommend referring to a tutorial specific to your graphic design software, as each platform has unique tools and methods for image inversion. This way, you’ll have a tailored guide to achieve the results you’re looking for. If you have further questions or need additional guidance, I’m here to help.

[@bb-r5710]

Love it❤

[@williamoffermann7696]

How much do you change your offsets between the two images?

[@Chaos_God_of_Fate]

i think you're refering to kerf- you'll need to test your laser to figure out your perfect kerf for different speeds, it's all speed/power dependent.

[@TrotecLaser]

Zero offset is needed, and every step in the process is shown.

[@castilloproject]

Magnificent

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you!!!

[@kovanova9409]

Imagine doing this for a floor. A pain I the ass but dear God.

[@TrotecLaser]

That would be impressive, as a large mosaic on some wooden floor tiles! 🤩 I would like to see that! - Laser Dave

[@CaptM44]

Amazing

[@TrotecLaser]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Qwiv]

Sweet

[@TrotecLaser]

So Sweet!

[@earthflute2248]

Wow.

[@thanhnhanhuynhnguyen3652]

I feel stupid not thinking of this. But every genius solution come obvious once discovered🎉

[@jondoe5866]

ok. Talk about blowing me away.

[@TrotecLaser]

I agree. I developed it, and it blew my mind, too; I still cannot believe this is possible. I'm so happy you like it!

[@83erMagnum]

Won't the laser beam be reflected by the foil thus causing rapid degradation of the lens or worst case insure your eyes ? If so, some safety warning should be added to the video.

[@TrotecLaser]

This is not the case. Most of the laser energy is used in removing the veneer. Since the part is held perfectly flat, any excess laser energy is reflected back into the laser, which is harmless if the machine is properly aligned. A dirty lens could cause damage regardless of the beam direction. After hundreds of tests, we experienced zero issues with beam reflection. Additionally, the Trotec laser system’s safety enclosure ensures that the laser beam can never escape. Attempting this on a "Class 4" or "open laser" could indeed pose a safety risk, and I would not recommend this application with an open or "Class 4" laser machine.

[@83erMagnum]

Great, thanks for clarifying my concerns!

[@Azarathification]

You also have to remember how lasers focus. It's not a straight beam, it converges at the focal point, the diverges past that. When it's reflected, it diverges a lot more, meaning it's not concentrated enough to damage.

[@EssGeeSee]

Wow! I can’t imagine how much mess I would get in to doing this…

[@TrotecLaser]

But it is such a satisfying mess!

[@dallassegno]

Did he say he's LASER DAVE?!

[@TrotecLaser]

Yes, "Laser Dave"!